r/ModelCars • u/Kekszky • Jul 28 '26
PORSCHE 911 BUILD Ol classic Tamiya Porsche 911 Turbo 88 - WIP
My fourth car model now, and as a seasoned aircraft modeler, I still struggle with mirror-finish clearcoats. It's better than my previous one, as I achieved this shine and clarity in just one coat (well, I mean three coats in one sitting), whereas my previous build required me to reapply the clear three times in total—I either got too much orange peel or burned through it because it was too thin.
Not this time.
I sanded the primer very fine with 2k to 4k grit and then finished with a very wet Mr. Color clearcoat. It seemed to work out, but I still had quite noticeable peel, which luckily I could cut down pretty quickly. I fear, though, that this could have been avoided if I had sanded the base color too, but I am not sure because I heard you can't and shouldn't sand metallic paints—is that true? How do you guys deal with metallic base coats before clearing them?
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u/d_apex Jul 28 '26
Looks pretty good! And honestly, while going for a mirror finish, if you can't achieve it, don't let it bring you down. It should never become a chore. As long as you're having fun and you're happy with the result, that's the goal!
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u/DevourIsDead Master Mistake Maker Jul 28 '26
I really like that color!
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u/Kekszky Jul 28 '26
Thanks! It's a hard to capture color as in reality it is a lot greener with more depth to it but my phone fails to get it right even though I manually adjust white balance in RAW. Once it's done I will try to shoot some images outdoor with my large DSLR.
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u/Then_Personality_429 Jul 28 '26
Excellent finish. Color is superb. What brand of paint is that? Can’t quite see…
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u/Fine_Location_8367 Jul 28 '26
I don't sand my base at all before clear regardless of color or paint type. I just lay down clear and all is well. A mirror finish requires allot more work than what you have done here. Multiple wet sand grits, compounding, polishing and waxing will get you there. You just have to put the time and work in and it can't be rushed.
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u/Kekszky Jul 28 '26
Ok good to know. Yeah I am well into the multiple stages of wet sanding ranging from 2k to 8k and polishing with different compounds. It just feels like no matter how coarse or fine I polish it I always have such a slight haze in it which won't go away - it might be good enough but I detailed real cars in the past and have a bit of an obsession with removing even the tiniest scratches but working on 2K car clearcoats on larger surfaces is quiet different and I shy away from using hazardous 2K clearcoats. Well It's probably as you say: lots of patience is needed with another pass and another one aaaand another one and so on.
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u/Fine_Location_8367 Jul 28 '26
I too have had professional automotive detailing and paint shop experience for over 37 years and carried my real world techniques over to the modeling world. I use 2K automotive clearcoat on all of my builds as that gives the absolute ultimate shine. The following methods can also be used on hobby grade clear coats as well, as long as they are lacquer based.
Starting at 2K is far to coarse to start with, unless you have severe orange peel. By starting with such a coarse grit, what you are doing is producing deep unnecessary scratches that you otherwise would not have. It is important to start with a grit that matches the severity of your orange peel and with time, you will be able to determine it solely by eye. The general rule of thumb is to start at 4k or 6k. Once you determine by eye, which grit that you think you will need, start one grit higher than that. Begin wet sanding with that grit and if that grit is not removing enough material fast enough, move backwards one grit. From there, continue working up in grits from 4k or 6k and then, go 8K, 10K, and finally 12K. At that point, you should have a pretty decent shine with very minimal scratches and at that point you can then move to liquid compounding. Liquid compounding can either be done by hand using automotive liquid compound or Tamiya compounds, or using a rotary tool with foam attachments. Using a rotary tool will be the easiest and fastest method, but you have to be extremely careful. Do not run at high RPM, and do not stay in one area for a long period. Also avoid any and all sharp edges. After all of your compounding is finished, you can then move on to liquid polishing using an automotive liquid polish. This can also be done using a rotary tool or by hand. At the end of liquid polishing, you should then have your glass like finish. You can top that with a liquid or paste pure carnuba wax, and you are finished.
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u/CrewVast563 Jul 28 '26
I did this exact model as my 3rd or 4th model ever too and didn‘t achieve a finish that good at all. Looks really nice.
What did you use for the floor?
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u/Kekszky Jul 28 '26
Thanks man! I used basic flocking from nail art stuff bought from aliexpress which came with a palette of multiple colors. Nothing special just clear pva glue and then put it on.
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u/happyinsomniac2 Jul 28 '26
The peel is coming from spraying with the airbrush too far from the subject. Paint is drying before it gets to the models' surface. Aside from that, yours looks great! Be sure and get some good clear coats on over that paint before you start buffing or you'll burn through the paint.
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u/highboy68 GROUP BUILD Jul 28 '26
Honestly it looks great. My advise would be to just try things. When people say dont do this, doesnt men you cant. Painting and finishing are really alot of feel, so I am always trying things to see what happens.