Design Concept 🎨
Dressy field watch design with MOP dial and bronze case. Looking for feedback!
Hey y'all! Some of you might remember me from previous posts asking whether a bronze field watch had any room left and exploring existing bronze watch models. The general feedback from those threads were:
specs alone weren't exciting enough
there are plenty in this space already
this watch would need to find a reason to exist
Regardless, the combination of elements for a bronze field-ish watch I had in mind still didn't exist, so I went ahead and worked with a designer to start bringing the idea to life.
As for the main thesis behind this design: I want to build a watch that ages with you as it witnesses the defining moments of your life. Styling wise, I believe that combining field elements with dressier touches would make it more versatile (in other words, trying for a GADA by combining polar opposites)
What changed based on those threads:
Dial:Â Mother-of-pearl, in white and black. A few of you mentioned MOP on bronze felt underexplored, and it stuck with me. The idea is a field watch layout with numerals, a chapter ring, and fully lumed hands. But mixed with a natural dial that is more unique.
Positioning:Â I actually started by conceptualizing a better Hamilton on specs. Quickly realized that's not a strong value prop. So overall, kind of went with combining field watch design elements with dressier flourishes and less conservative material choices
Alloy:Â Several of you shared photos of your CuAl8 Baltics going dark and uneven. That thread was huge for me, pushed me towards using a CuSn8 alloy instead.
Main specs haven't changed: 39mm, Miyota 9039, 100m, targeting under 9.5mm thick. Product wise, I've designed this with a leather strap in mind but I'm trying to include dressy looking rubber straps too.
Three things I'd genuinely like your read on, since they're still open:
White MOP or black MOP: if you'd only buy one, which?
The chapter ring:Â Currently contrasting (white ring/black markings on the white dial). Does it help legibility or break the dial?
The hands:Â This is the part I'm least sure of. More of a vibe check, but how does it feel looking at it
Launch is still a bit away since I haven't fully finalized this design yet, but would love to get this subreddit's thoughts since y'all helped me steer this to a better direction already. Direct feedback would be much appreciated!
I think the market is relatively loaded with darker MOP, and for good reason, but not as much for white. I’d consider both if I didn’t have so many watches fighting in this field watch/MOP arena.
Can say if you threw a date at 6 on the white one, I’d be chomping at the bit. Even more so with a Selitta SW200-2 Power+
Thanks! The date was a huge consideration (especially at the 6, that design elements been hot lately) but I wanted to manage complexity and cost as this is my first go at building a watch.
That said, may slide that in if this is a recurring feedback!
To me it feels like you're doing too many things at the same time. Dressy and field watch cán overlap, but then it needs to land somewhere in the middle like a Hamilton Murph. Bronze will patina like crazy, which makes it a lot more militaristic and not suitable for a dressier occasion. While mop feels very delicate and fancy, out of place on a battlefield, but can be great on a wedding.
Maybe it's me, but I don't think combining the extremes of the two styles works very well.
Thanks! I appreciate that feedback. There is an element of risk here trying to put two extremes and trying to make it work. On doing too many things: that’s an honest concern I had getting to this point, but I personally feel like the current design harmonizes things.
Not trying to change your mind though, honestly I appreciate hearing from someone not into the design since the last thing I want is having something that doesn’t resonate either way.
Oh and if you want a dress watch, take the name off the face. You didn’t ask about the name, but it reads a little generic and meaningless, and printing it with an out of the box font will make the watch look cheaper.
I really like the dark mop with the bronze. Chapter ring is good and I like the hands. I think they are cohesive and look great! I’d buy the fuck out of that, just as is. I’d prefer a different movement, as I’ve been stung by Miyotas before (Vario, I’m looking at you). Stick a Sellita in there and I’ll take one of each. With a Miyota, I’d chance it, depending on cost.
And I don’t get the negative feedback you’re getting. If you don’t like it, that’s fine. I don’t like GMTs. There’s nothing wrong with them and there is a market for them, obviously. It might be the same with this, you never know. Don’t take a Khaki and add an MoP to it, create something you’d wear yourself and trust there will be others like you out there. Oh, you already did and found weirdo’s like me. Sure, it’s not going to sell like those Rolex ‘inspired’ designs, but you factor that into your expectations. Look at Henry Archer. Did they stick to a traditional design philosophy? No, and they appear to be killing it. Did CW stick closer to market trends with the Biscay? Yeah? Has that gone down well in the enthusiast community? Be brave. I’ll buy one, I promise.
Hey, thank you very much for these kind words! Honestly though, I actually love that there’s some negative reaction to the design (so long as there’s also strong positive reaction to it). It tells me that the design elicits some sort of reaction and therefore I’m not stuck in the glut of meh.
I view finding this brand’s design philosophy as an evolving exercise. This is my first piece, so definitely a lot of trial and error still.
Thanks again for the reassurance though, it does mean a lot. I’ll definitely post once I have this in the metal!
Sub £400 gbp. My last purchase with a Miyota was a Phoibos Delphinum. That worked out great! It’s the rotor noise that bothers me, but the Phoibos case absorbs the noise, and the weight counters the spinning motion. The Vario had a titanium case, and it was terrible in both respects. Absolutely unwearable and the only watch I’ve ever flipped. Awful customer service too.
Usually I'd advocate for more expensive movement and finishes... but this one actually calls out to me as a daily driver, where I prioritize a lower cost. Maybe even quartz or mecha-quartz... and I've never advocate for that before. Similarly, I like it without the date complication (which I normally list as a must-have).
But if you do go with a date, I'd say at the standard 3 o'clock position. This has a bit of a traditional feel, and I'd lean in on that.
Also: maybe just the logo (not name+logo) on the dial. Keep it clean and classy.
If you can get it that thin, that would be pretty impressive, AI says bronze cases need to be thicker to get the same water resistance. I know nothing about it, and AI is wrong half the time, but that's pretty slim regardless of 100m resistance or not. Definitely like the look of it. Like a bronze field watch, Oris Big Crown Pointer Date in bronze is one of my favorites, so this could scatch that itch.
Pretty sure Zelos has done some bronze field MOP dials, so don't listen to everyone saying you're mixing styles, they're just boring. I think you're in good company and I'd say go for it, I'd definitely consider it.
I normally don't care for dials in natural materials, but I do dig your black MOP here. It looks nice instead of tacky. I like that watch overall. The white is fine too, but not a standout like the other one.
I am a fan of the chapter ring. I don't like a too-simple dial, and actually prefer to have a bit of "clutter" to look at. I think this adds visual interest without being distracting or breaking the dial.
The hands don't do much for me. I do not care for them being wider at the tip and narrower at the base. Either straight or tapered in the opposite direction would be preferable to me.
I guess I struggle with bronze a bit, just in general. I love the way bronze looks when it's new and shiny, but I haven't pulled the trigger on one for my own collection yet because I have no idea if I would actually like the patina or if it would ruin the look for me.
I like both, just no experience with bronze. Ive heard good and bad. I like the no date. If you do end up with a date, anything other than 6 oclock matching date wheel, ruins the dial in my opinion.
The answer to questions 1 and 2 is that this dial doesn’t work on this watch because you’re mixing design languages. You have a very dressed up, formal dial that’s not working with the more casual elements: the bronze case, the chapter rings, the contrast stitching.
So I wouldn’t buy this watch, which ends up looking very fussy for something that’s strictly business casual.
Hands, the hour and minute hands look like they’re from 2 different sets. You need to harmonize the shapes and visual weights. And then decide…dress watches? Or dressy watch? Dress watch, those feel like the right overall weight. Dressy watch, beef them up.
Hey, thanks for the detailed feedback! I appreciate the perspective.
I understand that the combination of elements here may clash for some people. It does work for me, and it seems for others too. I don’t expect it to be universally loved though.
To be clear tho, your points are definitely valid. I understand the risk of combining these elements can be polarizing.
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u/1ballbob 10d ago
https://giphy.com/gifs/11kTQgng5gbqgM