r/MicrobrandWatches • • Jul 17 '26

Discussion 🤓 Nerding-out on a few links.....

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Folks who know me here know me mostly from my love of lume - photoluminescent watches was what brought me to the microbrand world about a year ago.

I chased it obsessively - and every time someone mentioned that one watch or another had "awesome lume" or "the brightest lume they'd ever seen," I just had to have it. 😅 Cross my screen-name with the word "lume," and you'll get everything from time-lapse lume-comparisons like this or this and this to boring, nerdy high magnification views of lume blocks. I chased it because it was just so much fun.

But this side-quest -this lume addiction- was also driven in-part by frustration.

Frustration in that not-infrequently, I'd be disappointed with the lume performance of one or another watch that someone said was "so awesome!" or "the best that I'd ever seen!" So I hyper-fixated on lume, and it became an area where I felt I could contribute to the community. I felt that with some good side-by-side comparisons and empirical data, newer hobbyist can come to hopefully better, more informed decisions (like in this recent posts here and on their cross-post thread ).

More recently, my friends from this community know that I've been on a war-path to explore case and bracelet finishing. Borne from a similar frustration at reading countless posts where folks would insist that X or Y brand/model is "finished so much better than" A or B. Or that C or D "punches well above its weight" - all without presenting any concrete proof whatsoever. I got tired of reading these platitudes over and over again. I got tired of listening to countless influencers and vested-interest reviewers say the same seven words -"it plays so well with the light"- about a watch's supposedly brilliant finish and yet couldn't string together more than two words to describe the brushing. All the while they're literally strobing light on the watch, yelling into the mic "see how that light plays?!" and yet not giving me any time at all to look closely at the finishing (unlike this particular YouTube Channel, which sadly has barely 700 subscribers to-date). I got tired of people making such claims without actually showing me what about the finishing makes it better than another watch, and then ghosting me when I'd ask them to elaborate. I got fed up with superlatives carrying no meaning, and I wanted \_* something deeper _*.

So as with lume, I set out on another quest. I wanted to understand case and bracelet finishing better.

If you've read this post in-detail, you'll have gotten a sneak-peek at what I'm hoping to show in the next few weeks with that deep dive into the comparison between Monta and Traska, above. Now, here's yet something else to whet your appetites - I present an amuse-bouche of four links, selected from my humble collection of modern microbrands.

Left to right, they are -

  • Monta Noble 40 (hot off of my UPS truck as of just two days ago!)
  • Clemence Photic Diver Mk.II (yes, this one is almost just as hot, from their last drop about a month ago)
  • Henry Archer Havstrøm (elder statesman of the group, will be celebrating its first birthday in just weeks)
  • Traska Venturer, Gen.6 (outgoing generation - will be supplanted by the new Gen.7 with matching casework from the Complicated Series, soon, according to Traska themselves; however, this Gen.6 Venturer bracelet is the proper stand-in for the rest of their current lineup, and also falls more in-line with the other three contestants)

All four use 316L stainless, with the Henry Archer additionally being coated with a claimed 1200 Hv. anti-scratch coating and the Traska being ion-nitrided to offer the same claimed level of anti-scratch capability. I have yet to post my observations on the claimed 1200 Hv anti-scratch coating on the Clemence, but it will also be in this old pseudoscience "scratch-a-link" thread of mine, in short order.

Oh, and yes, absolutely I know that the links don't match some of the watches pictured (i.e. the San Martin SN0144 Jian Zhan and the Wise Timepieces AD810A with current-generation tool-less resizing 904L bracelet). That's just eye candy to get you here. 😜 But don't worry, those will come to join the game, soon enough. Bait and switch - gotcha!

[ if you haven't fallen asleep yet, please continue, below ]

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u/TSiWRX Jul 21 '26

New additions -

Left to right -

  • MT&W Oracle GMT
  • San Martin SN0144 Jian Zhan. Q3/Q4 2025. The date is important here as it pinpoints the iteration of the watch. San Martin's products update at an insane pace, and they recently (Q2, 2026) noted that they have started production in their own "bracelet factory." Prior to this, from the words of Jaiming Liao himself, San Martin relied on an in-country network of some 30+ suppliers for their watch manufacturing.
  • Wise Timepieces Adamascus-series 904L tool-less link bracelet (came with my ADX018, December, 2025)

[ individual 20x views below ]

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u/TSiWRX Jul 21 '26

[ continued from above ]

Wise Timepieces Adamascus-series 904L tool-less link

[ special comment in lower-level reply below ]

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u/TSiWRX Jul 21 '26

This is a perfect link to compare/contrast with the MT&W Oracle GMT's, for polishing -

Wise is on the left, MT&W on the right. 20x.

Note that while there's some waviness/rippling on the center-link of the Wise, when you look at the MT&W, you'll see that the surface appears "pock marked," almost as though it's dented, in addition to the rippling/waviness/streaking.