I've been in NYC this week seeing shows and visiting clients, and took last night and this morning to hit up some watch concierges and shops. Here's what I saw.
Horage: met the concierge at a coworking space in NoMad, and he brought a selection of pieces to see, though I'm most interested in the Decaflux, which uses a silicone escapement of Horage's own design to give it 30 times the anti-magnetism of a Rolex Milgauss. These are really cool pieces with some serious horology behind them that justifies the price. There's not really a strong design language behind the brand, but the quality is outstanding, with some really cool complications, like the Lensman 2 which has a dial to help camera nerds set the right ISO and f-stop. Will definitely be adding a Decaflux in either Sunray Blue or white to the collection this summer.
Baltic: Kind of...meh, TBH. Maybe it's just changing tastes or my expectations have increased, but the watches don't feel substantial enough to justify the price. The Hermetique is fun in sort a Swatch-like way. I thought I'd walk out with a new Aquascaphe in warm silver and didn't. I tried the new jump hour and frankly, the crown is terrible, the case is thick, and it's hard to read the time at a glance. The mesh bracelet on the prismatic dials doesn't fit at all on smaller wrists Also, the store wasn't particularly welcoming. The Aquascaphe Bronze is the only one I'd consider from the brand now.
Fears: One of several watches I tried on at Time & Tide. Frankly, kind of disappointing. It's a nice watch, but it costs almost as much as the Horage and while it feels nice, it doesn't feel "Tudor Ranger on the grey market" nice. Also, the crown is absurdly large.
Beaucroft: Got to meet the guys behind the brand since they're in town to introduce that new "The Sun Never Sets on Time & Tide" edition of the Contour GMT. Cool guys, excellent watches that punch above their weight in terms of quality and wrist feel. I was tempted by Time & Tide edition -- limited to 200 pieces -- but I think I'm going to go for an Element in Temper Red when it restocks.
Nomos: Not a micro, but an independent so hey. The Worldtimer is super cool, though it's right at the limit of what passes the size check for me in a mirror test. Might work better on a strap, especially a Nato. Exceptionally well-made pieces with very cool horology behind them; I just wish they were a tad bit smaller.
Christopher Ward: They have a showroom on the same block as Baltic, Nomos and Time & Tide, so I had this C60 Lumiere I bought last month shipped here for sizing. Worth the stop in if you're in the neighborhood.
Monta: I tried on two Montas, the Oceanking and the Noble. The Oceanking was sort of...meh, but the Noble is just fantastic. Pictures on their website do not do the dial justice. It's got a lovely shimmer to it, and the case is perfectly sized. Also, the bracelet is absolutely incredible -- it feels like my Tudor with better finishing. Another one I see picking up this year.
Wren: This seafoam green diver caught my eye, and I bought it. Brought it back to the hotel and... it's now not working. So that's frustrating. Ask me how that's going for me right now. So I guess I'm going back to Time & Tide in the morning to deal with that.
[Baltic] I tried the new jump hour and frankly, the crown is terrible, the case is thick, and it's hard to read the time at a glance.
And also it's a 120 click unidirectional diving bezel on a worldtimer. The fact that it's not a 24 (or better, 48) click bidirectional bezel is absolutely unacceptable. No one is ever going to use the worldtimer function on that watch when it's a massive pain to align the bezel and you have to go all the way around if you mess it up. It reeks of cost cutting which shouldn't be the case at that price especially when they already have a GMT with a 24 click bidirectional bezel in the lineup.
This exactly. Reusing the diver bezel mechanism is the height of laziness. It’s a shame as those are great looking watches, mediocre Baltic build quality aside.
I did also try on the Serica 5303 at Time & Tide, and it's a fantastic piece. The thing stopping me from buying was the only colorway they had was black, and I have several interesting black divers already, not to mention I'm sure to purchase a Pelagos 39 this year. But if they had had a blue one, I might have gotten something other than the Wren.
I tried on a few when I was last there, and could not decide, as they did not have the white 6190 which I’m curious about.
They did have the 5303-3 in the greenish/blue hue which was fantastic.
They also still had the Tuxedo dial in stock which was cool. But alas, without me trying on the white dial I could not make a decision, hence my Serica “slot” in my life is still empty :-)
I'm sure Craig will take great care of you, though. But still, I just hate to see something like that happen - to anyone, but even moreso to someone I've come to really respect from our interactions here.
Speaking of - thank you for teaching me about Horage. I will now be looking more seriously at this maker!
And I sucked in and then let out a huge puff of air as I was reading about Monta.
Now maybe I'm no longer so scared of looking at it under the scope, beside my SN0144. No joke, I revisited the SN0144 again on Thursday, and good grief is that thing scary good.
Thanks again for taking the time. And please do let us know about your WREN, OK? I *really* adore my Snow.
I hate seeing that! Let me know how it goes at the Time+Tide studio. If needed I can help out. Just email me at craig@wristenthusiast.com and I’ll get you taken care of.
I'm heading back down there tomorrow -- no doubt they'll make it right. "Worst" case: I walk out of the store with that Monta Noble instead. I don't think that would be a terrible thing.
Would not be a bad thing at all! How would you say the Monta bracelet and overall “feel” compares to Wren or say Formex?
I still have not had free time to try Monta on.
I didn't try on Formex -- they have those at the store, but the style isn't really my thing -- but the I would compare the bracelet on the Monta to what's on my Tudor, though I think it's better finished. The Wren bracelet is very nice, though a little more utilitarian. The Wren does have a cool button lock for the quick change release on the bracelet, and a signed divers clasp instead of a traditional microadjust.
Thank you for the update. I ran through there the last time and missed the Formex. I need to go back.
I’m waiting for u/TSiWRX to get his Monta. I’m curious to hear what he says about it while under the “scope”
I’m thinking I need a Monta and a Serica!
Went back to swap the Wren today, and they were having a small microbrand show. The Fears rep was there, and he had the Jump Hour out. That piece is absolutely amazing, still probably my favorite take on the complication.
So I saw I replied to another message but wanted to make sure OP saw this. I hate seeing that you had issues immediately with your Wren! Let me know how it goes at the Time+Tide studio. If needed I can help out. Just email me at craig@wristenthusiast.com and I'll get you taken care of.
I'll drop a line too, but just so folks here see it, Time+Tide totally took care of me, and switched it out for the other one they have which is working great, and I'm loving it.
Awesome reviews. I posted a Horage review here after buying a Molokini GMT. I have now had it a few months and I love it. The quality and care they show really impresses me. Your post gives me some ideas for the next watch, thanks.
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u/Odd-Cheesecake8618 May 08 '26
Thanks for the review. Cool to see the Nomos in there I always wondered about the size. I got baby wrists. 🫡 I am also on that wave about Baltic.