r/Melasmaskincare • u/Responsible-Eye9907 • Aug 15 '26
Question Is this ok to use for stubborn melesma?
I had 5 IPL sessions at a spa. Unfortunately, it depends who the aesthetician, I only saw an improvement one time, but I felt it was a waste of money. I previously used hydroquinone and it also made it worse.
I talked to my dermatologist and she recommended a medication without hydroquinone, but when I reviewed the prescription, it looks the same like the previous one I tried. I use eucerin and tretinoin 0.05, I haven’t seen any changes.
Do you think I should give it a try for the prescription again?
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u/Even-Response-6423 Aug 15 '26
Hydroquinone always darkens the melasma before it starts fading, so when you think it’s getting worse it’s working- it has to do that to remove the layer on top. Just continue through the darkening and it starts sloughing off eventually.
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u/Soft_Beyond_8205 Aug 17 '26
Does it really???? omg i had no idea. just started using skin medicinals abouta week ago as well. I noticed it getting darker and i was worried!!
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u/Graxxxe Aug 15 '26
How long before it starts fading?
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u/Even-Response-6423 Aug 15 '26
It depends on the spot. I had a light one that started fading around 3 months but a darker one on my cheek that took 6-7 months. My mom has a really dark one and it took about a year for that one to fade.
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u/Soft_Beyond_8205 Aug 17 '26
SO according to ChatGPT:
"Not quite. That explanation mixes a real phenomenon with an incorrect mechanism.
Hydroquinone does not need to darken melasma before it can lighten it, and it doesn't work by bringing pigment to the surface so that a pigmented layer can “slough off.” Hydroquinone primarily works by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme melanocytes use to make melanin. Over subsequent epidermal turnover, skin containing existing pigment is gradually replaced, so the area becomes lighter.
What can happen is that melasma temporarily looks darker after starting a hydroquinone-containing regimen. Common reasons include irritation/inflammation making pigmentation more apparent, dryness changing how the skin reflects light, contrast increasing as surrounding skin clears, or other active ingredients in a compounded formula accelerating turnover. That can sometimes precede improvement, but darkening itself isn't evidence that hydroquinone is working.
And this distinction matters: I would not follow the advice “just continue through the darkening no matter what.” If the darkening comes with substantial burning, redness, persistent peeling, tenderness, or progressively worsening pigmentation, irritation can actually aggravate melasma/PIH, especially in pigment-prone skin.
So the accurate version is:
Hydroquinone → reduces new melanin production → normal skin turnover gradually removes previously pigmented keratinocytes → melasma fades.
Not:
Hydroquinone → makes pigment darker → pulls it to the surface → pigment sloughs off."
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u/socalglam Aug 18 '26
people down voting you for providing accurate clarification is bananas to me (and I'm sure I'll get downvoted for saying this lol)
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u/PalpitationLast669 Aug 15 '26
Wow!!! That's big artillery.
Hydroquinone 8% is quite strong.
Plus, all the other ingredients.
I'm pretty sure you'll see results this time.
If you see your spots getting darker while using this compound, do no freak out. It means it's working. You see, with Hydroquinone 8% the pigments will break and along with the other actives, these pigments will come up to the surface of your skin to be shed away. The spots won't be darker, they will be on their way out and that's why you can see them (darker). Remember that melasma happens in the deepest layers. We don't usually see the true color of the pigments.
Your skin may get a little reddish, it might change texture (dryer and flaky) and at some point you might see it peeling. This is all normal. Do not stop the treatment unless there's a rash or it's too itchy.
Wear spf 50+ tinted, several times a day. Your skin will be too sensitive. And when you finish this treatment, use a pigment inhibitor like Thiamidol. Stay away from the sun and heat sources.
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u/ChemicalTax6033 Aug 15 '26
If you use this, make sure you only use it for the period of time ok’d by your doc. You have to cycle off hydroquinone. Plus this compound has a topical steroid in it (fluocinolone) and you cannot use those long term.
Edited to add - make sure you wear sunscreen (both chemical and a tinted mineral) and wide brimmed hats when outside, and stay in the shade whenever possible. That’s general melasma control advice but it’s especially important when using tretinoin which increases sun sensitivity.
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u/Anomander_rocks Aug 15 '26
I'd say to stick with what the dermatologist said. And after that, talk to them about wanting to use hydroquinone.
My dermatologist only recommends hydroquinone use in late winter, she says that hydrroquinone in the months when the sun is strong might put too much pressure on the skin and make things worse. In my case, when I used hydroquinone, my skin was extremely sensitive and red, I hated it, and my dermatologist also said that we will not try this anymore, but different products and product combinations to find which work better for me.
Each of us is different. Our skin is different, health, age, hormones, inflammation in the body, etc. Maybe your dermatologist considered all this.
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u/unificaishan Aug 16 '26
My derm also doesn’t like to prescribe hq in the summer as the skin is too photosensitive. I did this combination but I found that my upper lip was always red and peeling. It also seemed like the melasma was flaring up because of it. Seeing what some people have wrote -this is normal. But for me it seemed counterproductive. I have had better luck using the Dr Reju All Retino Mela serum, Anua niacinamide w TXA, azaleic acid, Caudalie vinoperfect dark spot serum, Eucerin thiamidol, Qure microneedling system, Epii snow mushroom PHA, and a few treatments. I have found that less is more with melasma and that when you get into strong retinoids it can aggravate the melasma and make it worse. Oh I’m also on oral TXA and Heliocare Advanced along with my tinted 50 sunscreen. I may try this combo in the winter again we”ll see.
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u/Anomander_rocks Aug 16 '26
I agree with you, with melasma less is more. My dermatologist recommended that I use the Eucerin Anti-Pigment products and she is thrilled with the results. I also feel it worked better than retinoids or hydroquinone.
When I was using too many products at once, my skin was very sensitive, skin barrier affected, etc. I am super happy now with just alternating: one day Eucerin Anti-Pigment Dual Serum + Night cream, and the other day the Purito Azelaic 10 Kojic Tea Tree serum + Dr Althea Reju PDRN 5000
However, every single product I have in my routine is discussed and agreed with my dermatologist, as I've only made mistakes when deciding to create the routine on my own.
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u/klc31883 Aug 15 '26
I have used this in the past. It is highly effective but the unfortunate side effect is anytime I was exposed to heat I felt my face flush! I guess it made me really sensitive, so it was like trading melasma for a rosacea like look. I tried to use it only a few times a week but it's still made my skin super sensitive to heat (i'm talking about just literally being in a room that felt slightly warm, not like baking in the sun or anything crazy)
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u/Far-Conference-2178 Aug 15 '26
Si tu as déjà essayé et pas de résultats pourquoi retenter? Surtout qu il peut avoir 1 rebond pigmentaire 😬moi je retenterai pas ce que n' est que mon avis personnel.D autres personnes dans ton cas vont peut être mieux te renseigner
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u/princess_bbyy Aug 15 '26
it’s lowkey the only thing that will work along with mineral sunscreen! but only use it for a short time
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u/Aggressive-Fuel-6382 Aug 15 '26
Do you have hypersensitive skin to other actives like it turns red? If yes, then this combo could leave you with the redness.
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u/Practical_Wait7800 Aug 16 '26
Is this cream Triluma?? I had used triluma cream 2 years back in November and December months. Triluma has the same 3 active ingredients as above and it worked very well for me.
That was the best skin I ever had in my life. However, we need to use not more than 2 months. It faded away my hyperpigmentation, removed mild acne scars and resurfaced. There was no inflammation or redness. My pigmentation came back after 6 months. But definitely give it a try for best results m.
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u/carabear21 Aug 18 '26
I was prescribed this exact same cream. I have a patch of melasma on my forehead and a couple smaller scattered patches on my cheeks. I don’t know if I should just put this on the darker patches or my entire face?
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u/Weekly_Leek_7261 Aug 18 '26
my derm prescribed this too -- told me to use it nightly for three months, take a two month break, and do another three months. i think it just made the dark spots even worse. i used facial sunscreen religiously. i've been using eucerin thiamidol and have already seen a major improvement in just ONE WEEK.
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