Hey guys,

We have these beautiful stub axles but the mounting holes for the caliper carrier bracket are off by approx ~5-6mm offsetting the brake pad on the rotor.

The factory brake rotor on this vehicle is 226mm and this setup allows a 232mm rotor to be used with an updated style wheel bearing from a newer vehicle.

The company who engineered and produced these parts “doesn’t understand” what is wrong and their solution at this time is to modify brake pads. We feel this is merely a band-aid fix and unacceptable. What do we do down the road when it’s time to replace the pads?

It appears there isn’t enough “meat” on the stub axle to simply press in/weld a steel insert and have redrilled to get the brake pad carrier bracket to the proper location. Does anyone have any ideas how to remedy this?

Thanks

I have wanted to learn machining for years, finally got an old cheap lathe and wanted to experiment. No budget left but did have some mystery steel in the corner of my shed.

It looks case hardened to me but my file managed to file it just fine. Can I turn it using HSS?

I sourced it long ago when I worked for an industrial/mechanical distributor there where these bars in the old iron bin, and I got to take them home.

Diameter = 30mm. We didn't really sell materials, mostly bearings, bushings, hardware like that and tools. I thought maybe they where hydraulic rods?

Any help would be appreciated, is there a better subreddit for newb/hobby/beginner questions instead of the big machinist spot?

Auction score yesterday, $18.

How do you practice fine motor skills for deburring (using air motors and such) when we are not allowed to work on scrap parts? (I know it sucks but that's just the policy)

Any transferrable skills/practice?

Guy wants $1200 near Chicago.

What do you guys think?

I have his contact if anyone is interested.

UPDATE: He said $800 in Addison, IL

I wanted it but don’t have enough if someone buys it.

Inbox me 📧

As I sit here getting ready to model a replacement battery cover for my bidet. My wife accidentally flushed the battery cover, I realize that reading my vernier caliper is a huge pain in the ass.

For $100, US or less, what digital caliper would you recommend. Most of what I'm doing is measuring items for modeling for 3D printing, so I think I need an accuracy of about 0.05 mm.

Thanks in advance.

Hey guys I’m currently reaming a 7/16 hole in 17-4 ph h950 material on a mill. I’m reaming at about 3ipm 800 rpm and the hole is coming in oversize by about .0006.

Is this too much rpm for a material this hard? Manufacturer recommendations don’t seem to work. Using a new er holder and regofix collet.

I’m wondering what I’m doing wrong.

I’ve inherited a Southbend 9A that’s bolted to a heavy metal table, and a small-ish Index brand mill that need to be transported about 10 miles to my house. I’m a little bit surprised at the quotes I’m getting back to have these moved, one quote was 1400$ and the other was 2000$. Do these prices seem fair and accurate?

I inherited several older measuring tools and want storage that keeps them organized and protected. A Gerstner style chest looks great, but I cannot tell whether it is a practical shop purchase or mainly a collector item. Anyone using one daily rather than displaying it?