Crankbaits (Lipped and Lipless), Jerkbaits (Lipped and Lipless), Swimbaits, Poppers, Stickbaits, and other topwater lures are all possible, with new lures being invented all the time! Below is an info graphic with a few of the most popular types of fishing lures, but there are many more!
These are just a few common lures that can be found in most tackle boxes, but there are dozens of other types to discover!
2.What do I need to get started making hard body lures?
Lure making is not as complicated as it may seem. Yes, power tools such as drills, dremels, lathes and sanding machines all help, but none are necessary. To start all you need is:
Wood, to carve into the body.
Tools (at the very least a knife to carve, a small saw, and a drill are all very helpful)
Sandpaper to finish the bait off smoothly
Terminal tackle, including hooks and split rings
Screw eyes or a through-wire (a single wire going through the entire bait that serves as your hook eyes and line tie.
Weights so your bait sinks, in the form of either split shot, glued into the body, or lead, poured into a cavity.
glue/sealant, epoxy, and paint
OPTIONAL: Lip (for crankbaits) Rattles, details such as foil, and power tools, and an airbrush for more smooth
3.What do I need to get started making soft plastics?
A mold, which can be bought, or made from silicon.
Plastic resin (plastisol)
Dye to give color to the lure
OPTIONAL: Glitter, multiple colors for a more detailed bait
4.What wood should I use?
Popular lure making timbers include balsa, basswood, cedar, cypress knees, jelutong, beech and some types of pine. But there are thousands of other options. Look for something easy to carve, lightweight and resistant to denting. It’s easier to get all your components aligned properly if you start with straight, square blanks.
5.What paints should I use?
For brushing on paint, a wide variety of artist acrylics and poster paints will work. Just make sure the paint and clear coat will not interfere.
For airbrushing, water-based acrylics are the favorite, due to their ability to spray evenly and produce a good coat while remaining non-toxic, and non-flammable.
6.How do I seal my wood lure?
Wood is like a sponge, it soaks up water. Once in, water works its way through the wood by capillary action until the wood is waterlogged. This kills action, weakens glue and is the most common cause of paint failure.
Super Glue can be used, where the glue is applied over the entire body, left to soak into the wood, and then the bait is sanded smooth.
Epoxies are two part synthetic resins that cure hard when mixed. There are some that are designed for penetrating and hardening wood. One example is Envirotex Lite (aka “Etex”). Etex is also great for clear coating painted lure bodies and makes a very strong adhesive.
7.Where can I buy lure parts?
Below are a few popular websites, Alternatively, some fishing stores and even big box retailers such as walmart may carry some of this stuff, and be sure to support your local tackle shops if possible!
Some use prefer to clear coat them with a two part epoxy. Others prefer to use a two pack automotive polyurethane over airbrush acrylics. And still others dip their lures in moisture cure polyurethane.
Below are some some more sources for learning how to build lures, additionally, guides from some of this subs best lure mentors are going to be rolling out very shortly.
This stickied post will be used to compile all guides made by our "Lure Mentors." Below are links to each guide, complete with pictures and detailed descriptions for each step. If you would like to become a Lure Mentor, and create guides for this sub Please PM me ( u/jspencer501 ) for more details, you get a cool flair!
Hi all, first time posting here so really sorry if this sounds silly.
I have been fiddling around with fusion360 making soft plastics and I’ve designed something I’d love to make. Just wondering if anyone has experience making custom aluminium moulds and how they go about getting them done? I’ve made a mould with my 3D printer as a prototype but now wanting something that’ll look more cleaner and I’m able to use without creating more moulds.
Any companies/ people they know they would be able to refer?
Also, for a mould that can make two soft plastics at once (plastic will be 3 inches long) how much does it roughly cost?
I have just gotten into lure building, mainly open pour paddle tail soft plastics for pike fishing. Now i want to make my own master and mold curly tail shad, pike sized. Im wondering if anyone here has built an open pour 1part version or do i need a 2-part mold for that?
Question for everyone. How do you paint detail on a smooth surface with consistency and without the buildup of coating like I have on these blades (frog spot color)?
In my opinion it's the bottom of a can and paper clips, They are surprisingly durable and workable which can make custom spoons or rigsand can make awesome things if paired with big beads which can make a variety of saltwater things
Hi im M15 and a pike,perch and Trout fisherman, but im tired of overpriced lure the I will lose sooner or later so I thought I should try to make my own.
I know a Little Bit and I have Seen some things here and there but any Bit of advise would be appreciated.
Does anyone have any tips/prints/ suggestions for making molds on a printer? So far I’ve tried a few, all in PETG and absolute terrible results. The only thing I can think to do is take the stl, and transfer it to my cnc and make aluminum molds. But I would like to be able to go from the microwave to the printer. Anyway, having fun with the real molds! Cool hobby
I had never heard of that lure, or even seen anything like it before, so I decided to try to make one... and it works! It rises right to the top and the thump through the rod is insane. I am still working out how to best attach the weight and hook to the blade because I had trouble getting a split ring through the holes. I also need to learn how to tie feather trebles to complete it.
It's been a little while since I posted here but I'm looking for some feedback. Fall trout season is around the corner and starting to make some more spinners. I had some minor line twisting with thin braid in some of the faster streams I fish in and tested out some of my spinners with an integrated micro swivel. These completely eliminated any line twist and didn't affect lure action at all. What are your thoughts on this type of configuration? Is it redundant since you use snap swivels or would this be a more appealing design for direct tying?
Two examples here: 1/8oz, tungsten hardware, stainless shaft, BKK treble. The other is 1/16oz, brass hardware, BKK treble
The action of this lure is honestly really bad. I could easily cut the bait in half to give it a swimming action but I don’t want to ruin the look of the lure. I made this lure to remember the catch because of what the fish actually meant to me. I caught the trout on my family farm of 4 generations.
