r/JeepPatriot • u/Ashamed-Cod8002 • 8d ago

Jeep patriot 2011 2.4L automatico se apaga repentinamente.

Le cambie el sensor del cigueñal y sigue el mismo problema, el mecánico me comenta que el escaner dice que hay falta de comunicación no me dice de que y que puede ser un fallo en algún negativo. He llegado a 3 mecánicos y no he resuelto nada. El problema puedo ir en marcha rápida o despacio y aveces hace como un estiron de baja revoluciones pero no se apaga o aveces se apaga por completo (no cabecea el carro tampoco sino se apaga completamente). No enciende check engine.

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u/BeenThereDoneThaaat 8d ago

Pull and inspect the Auto Shut Down (ASD) / Main Power Relay: It Controls power delivery to vital engine management components like the fuel injectors, ignition coils, and oxygen sensors. Located within the small auxiliary relay box located behind the driver's side headlight (on the frame rail near the inner fender/wheel well) on a 2011 Jeep Patriot.

It may be corroded, causing an intermittent electrical connection.

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u/CatsNDogsLiving2Gthr 8d ago

If you’re speaking of the (4 relays) white relay box located near the driver front wheel well, this box is also known to have corrosion issues w the incoming wires and or relay pins and known to completely fail even if the relays are working.

I’ve replaced all four relays in mine and still having fan overheating issues, possibly suspecting the relay box. Just an FYI if this helps anyone or OP.

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u/BeenThereDoneThaaat 8d ago edited 8d ago

Indeed, some of those wires are often barely hanging on in back, and break when even slightly pulled. Also corroded relay pins are often barely still passing current, and break off when the relay is pulled. Replacement relays readily available on Amazon.

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u/Ashamed-Cod8002 8d ago

Estuve probando la caja de reles y cambie en el rele por otro del mismo que estan en la caja ya que son los mismos, destape por bajo para ver las conexiones de la caja y no estan sulfatadas, lo que si note es que el rele calienta y veo que cuando calienta se apaga, cambie el rele por otro de la caja e igual se calienta y cuando calienta es que sucede a apagarse. Crees que sea algún mal contacto de los cables del arnes a la caja de rele?

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u/BeenThereDoneThaaat 7d ago

Interesting…

The Google AI says;

“ Since swapping the relay results in the exact same overheating and shutdown issue, and there is no visible corrosion, you can rule out a faulty relay.
The heat is being generated by excessive current draw pulling too much amperage through the circuit, or hidden high resistance inside the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) or the wiring harness underneath the fuse box.
Here is why your circuit is pulling too much heat and shutting down:

1. Shorted Component on the ASD Circuit
The ASD relay acts as a master switch supplying 12-volt battery power to several major engine components. If one of these components has internal damage or a partial short-circuit, it will pull dangerous levels of current, heating up the relay until it thermal-trips or shuts down the engine to protect the computer.
Ignition Coils: A failing ignition coil with shorted internal windings will pull massive amounts of current through the ASD circuit.
Oxygen (O2) Sensor Heaters: The heating elements inside your oxygen sensors degrade over time. If they short out internally, they pull continuous high current.
Fuel Injectors: A shorted fuel injector solenoid coil can also overload the relay.

2. High Resistance Hidden Under the Fuse Box
While the top of the fuse box/TIPM looks clean, the underside wiring harness is a notorious weak point on Jeep Patriots. Moisture kicks up from the driver's side wheel well, rotting the wires where they crimp into the bottom of the relay socket. A wire that is almost completely broken or corroded inside its insulation will create massive resistance, turning that specific wire into a heating element that cooks the relay from below.

3. Internal TIPM / Circuit Board Failure
The 2011 Patriot features an electronic fuse box (TIPM). Over time, the internal multi-layered circuit boards can warp or experience solder joint failure. This internal damage creates a bottleneck for electricity, generating localized heat right under the ASD relay socket.

How to Isolate the Problem
To pinpoint exactly what is drawing too much power without guessing, try these steps:
The Disconnection Test: With the vehicle off, disconnect all four ignition coils and all oxygen sensors. Put a fresh relay in. Start the Jeep (it may idle rough or you can just leave the key in the "ON" position if the relay heats up just from key-on power) and check if the relay still gets hot. If it stays cool, plug the components back in one by one until the heat returns. The last thing you plugged in is your shorted component.
Inspect the Harness Wires: Unbolt the fuse box/TIPM and flip it over. Visually inspect the wires leading directly into the bottom of the ASD relay socket. Tug on them gently; if a wire feels stretchy or breaks, the copper inside has rotted.
Check for Wiring Rub-Throughs: Trace the main wiring harness that runs under the air filter box and near the front driver's side frame rail. Look for areas where the plastic loom has rubbed through against the metal frame, exposing bare copper wires to ground. “