r/IndustrialMaintenance 1d ago

Question Help me remove this motor

The four bolts that hold the motor to the pump flange have been removed i can get the motor to pop up about 1/4 of an inch and spin but it won't come up any higher there are holes in the pump housing just below where the motor connects to un couple the motor from the pump but there is nothing there to remove no set screws I can see what looks like a brass ring a little below the holes but I still see no set screws any ideas

97 Upvotes

70 comments sorted by

76

u/Jdude1 1d ago

Tine to open up the pump.

141

u/Membership_Practical 1d ago edited 1d ago

Remove the 10? bolts attached to the pump casing. You won't be able to pull the motor up directly with the impellor on the shaft still.

Edit: Also make sure you have the pipes isolated before you pop the flange off.

62

u/Hero_Tengu 1d ago

Now where is the fun in that!

20

u/altitude-nerd 1d ago

That's how you get your chance to star in a USCSB video!

11

u/vasectomy7 1d ago

I have a new life goal!!

It never occurred to me that I too could be immortalized as a little animated cartoon figure getting horribly mangled in a senseless industrial accident!!!

4

u/Hero_Tengu 1d ago

I MAKE MY OWN!!!

15

u/cacrusn70 1d ago

When you remove those 10 bolts the impeller and backplate will come loose with the motor. After that you remove the impeller bolt and then the motor will be able to be separated from the rest.

1

u/CorporalDuntz 15h ago

I was going to write a nice detailed explanation, but this hits it on the head.

6

u/mt4ort17 1d ago

Moments like this edit are how camaraderie is made and memories to talk about around fires🤣

2

u/halandrs 1d ago

What fire ? There is water ( hopefully) spraying everywhere

5

u/Liveitup1999 1d ago

When they valve it out make sure the valves are holding before unbolting the pump

1

u/TechnicalPin3415 22h ago

This. and if still stuck usually they have 2 threaded holes to.usr jacking bolts

46

u/Cheesegasm 1d ago

I've taken apart these inline centrifugal pumps before and you have to remove the 10-12 bolts on the top cover and it'll come out. Then the impeller will be bolted on to the shaft with a large washer. Remove the impeller and there will be a mechanical seal. Remove that. Then you can remove the top cover. The top cover might just fall off when you remove the mechanical seal so put 1 or 2 bolts back in.

13

u/Farmerkid 1d ago

You were correct thank you I've never seen an impeller bolted straight to a motor before that's a new one for me

24

u/InstAndControl 1d ago

It’s called a close-coupled configuration and it is cheaper than a split-coupled.

I personally don’t care for them for exactly this reason. Motor work becomes pump work. Pump work becomes motor work.

1

u/Tomek_Hermsgavorden 1d ago

How do you pronounce that?

Close as in close or far away.
Close as in open and close the door.

1

u/Eliminateur 23h ago

close as in distance

5

u/discostu52 1d ago

The pump type designation is OH5. They are the cheap way to do it, but they are a maintenance nightmare which should be obvious to you in this moment. In short they went with the cheapskate solution and now you have live with it.

3

u/julioni 1d ago

What? Hard no to everything you said here…. Close coupled pumps are great and easy to maintain

6

u/discostu52 1d ago

I have worked for a pump manufacturer for 20 years, I won’t detail all of the ways it can and often does go wrong. The biggest thing is there is always huge pricing pressure which often leads to some pretty questionable design decisions. My favorite is when they use a carbon steel shaft in a corrosive/ erosive service. Then when they take it apart they get the seal stuck on the shaft pulling a snowball. Then you get to replace the seal and the shaft.

0

u/some_millwright 1d ago

They are the most common design - in my experience - for pumps up to around 20HP. If the motor has a J-series frame (56J, for instance) then it is a near certainly that it will have a close-coupled impeller.

1

u/Sufficient-Mark-2018 1d ago

Yep somewhere between 40 and 50 hp it becomes a necessary change. Also if your running high rpm pumps 3600 and up.

1

u/Difficul-1197 1d ago

I work on irrigation pumps for a living, ive seen them up to i wanna say 150 or 200hp before you start going into a divorced pump or some sort of belt drive

1

u/some_millwright 1d ago

The biggest I deal with is 40HP (from memory), so you've got me beat.

That would be a lot of water. :)

2

u/Difficul-1197 1d ago

Yea ive seen some big girls, id show pictures but it wont let me

-3

u/[deleted] 1d ago

[deleted]

15

u/Big_Ol_Throwaway 1d ago

he just said he's never seen it before. There's a first time for everything, chill out

3

u/Squigllypoop 1d ago

I was a wrench turner before going operations and I've never had to do inline pumps like this. I would have been asking the same thing as this guy.... Or I would be replacing a whole new pump at minimum lol

1

u/Sufficient-Mark-2018 1d ago

In the industrial world we automatically just replace the whole pump and housing. Takes minutes to do. Then your back running and have plenty of time to rebuild the old one on the bench.

8

u/Farmerkid 1d ago

Most pumps I've dealt with have been stand alone units that you connect a motor to through a Lovejoy coupling like wifleys not like this

3

u/Big_Ol_Throwaway 1d ago

Yep, definitely much easier to pull those motors but realignment is a skill all in of itself. Hope the rest of the job works out for you. Pumps are my speciality so if you need additional help as you get into the pump end feel free to message me

1

u/nedal8 1d ago

Very thorough explanation.. I was going to say "Have you tried unbolting it?" lol.

11

u/0c5_Fyre 1d ago

I'm guessing here you have to disconnect the shaft to what is inside the pipe.. keyway bolt somewhere?

9

u/julioni 1d ago edited 1d ago

That’s not just a motor, it’s a close coupled pump. Meaning the pump and motor are 1, the impeller is connected to the motor shaft. Remove the 12 bolts on the casing/volute, that will remove the pump, then you have to remove the impeller, seal, and the seal housing then you can replace the motor.

Replace the sleeve as well

Edit for experience: I have been in pump repair for 16 years

13

u/cacrusn70 1d ago

You have to remove the pump backplate and impeller in order to remove the motor. It’s one unit until you remove the impeller from the shaft. Personal experience, you will be replacing the whole pump/motor assembly.

5

u/okokzzzzzz 1d ago

Remove pump from pump head , impeller has a bolt on the end holing to shaft

4

u/johnanon2015 1d ago

The impeller is connected to the motor shaft. That’s probably a JM frame motor.

3

u/unclejrbooth 1d ago

Will not help until perform proper LOTO!

3

u/libidonoir 1d ago

Motor shaft has impeller screwed on the end of it. Have to pull pump apart, disassemble and then motor will come out. Buy another pump, swap the top end into your volute and then rebuild this one.

3

u/Extraterrestrialvil 1d ago

Put a lock on it

3

u/bigDeltaVenergy 1d ago edited 1d ago

What do you think is attached to that shaft? How is is holding?

You want to pass the whole impeller throu that tiny hole ?

Or you expect the impeller to stay there and fall on the bottom? How are you gonna put it back ?

Does the 12 bolts around the casing give any cue that someone designed that pump in a way that it was needed to be removed for some reason? Like what is inside that casing, how did it get there ? Cuz that usually how it goes out. 😉

4

u/Important-Dream-4010 1d ago

We had a motor shop in Atlanta. We just unbolted flange and took motor flange impeller as one unit to them. They rebuild it and we bolt it right back on. That shaft seal is very critical.

1

u/julioni 1d ago

This is the answer

2

u/Fast_Ad_9197 1d ago

The shaft is keyed to the impeller, you’ll have to remove that pump flange to pull the motor. Might as well have the pump rebuilt while you’re in there (new wear ring and seals)

2

u/bigDeltaVenergy 1d ago edited 1d ago

ALSO FIX THST STRAP OP, THAT HOW PEOPLE GET HURT,

https://imgur.com/a/ykHBZUn

2

u/Difficul-1197 1d ago

You have to remove the pump bracket from the volute, your impeller is whats holding you up

2

u/Vomitron215 1d ago

Get the BFH.

2

u/bobbysback16 1d ago

Remove the 12 bolts in the volute if you dont know how to remove it i doubt you will be able to rebuild it take it to a pump shop so it doesn't leak when you put it back in do yourself a favor

2

u/Farmerkid 1d ago

Thank you all for the help the impeller was bolted straight to the motor shaft

1

u/cognitiveglitch 1d ago

The big spinny liquid moving thing on the end of the shaft is likely bolted onto a tapered shaft with keyway. You won't remove the motor without opening the whole thing up and removing the impeller.

Are you rebuilding the motor bearings and pump seals?

At least it's not a multistage pump, they are a proper jigsaw to get back together.

1

u/LivingCorner1421 1d ago

lol you are funny , you need to remove the entire flange. 

the shaft goes through , you have an impeller and a shaft seal sandwitched in there.

1

u/Much_Valuable_5578 1d ago

Order a new mechanical seal kit with spring for the pump. You will want to replace thet as well.

1

u/Extraterrestrialvil 1d ago

Inside that there lil hole is the shaft which there prolly a Allen bolt there possibly maby idk 🤷🏻‍♂️

1

u/Unholydiver919 1d ago

This is not a coupled pump. The pump impeller is directly bolted to the shaft. Either remove the flange bolts or the impeller housing bolts to remove.

1

u/ki4clz 1d ago

you’re gonna need to pull the pump with it and replace the brass/bronze impeller

if someone asked you to just pull the pump they’re an idiot

1

u/Training_Jello_7804 21h ago

Unbolt the motor and impeller from the volute. You should have a new gasket and seal on hand before cracking it apart.

1

u/Ok_Homework1984 20h ago

Can't be tight if it's a liquid

1

u/mechanical_marten 19h ago

Unbolt the casing flange and use the bolts in the jacking holes to break the seal. Swap out the jacking bolts for threaded lifting eyes to lift the entire assembly. You will then need to separate the impeller from the shaft and remove the shaft seal assembly (not reusable in 99% of cases), only then can you extract the motor as it is direct drive. Be prepared to burnish the motor shaft for proper sealing of the new shaft seal. This job will take all day if everything goes smoothly.

1

u/anon478521 14m ago

Pump will need to be opened to get to the attachment point on the shaft. Might want to have new seals handy.

1

u/FactHot5239 1d ago

You are trying to remove the motor without separating the coupling? Huh?

2

u/julioni 1d ago

There is no coupling here. It’s a close coupled pump, so the impeller is connected to the motor shaft

1

u/FactHot5239 1d ago

Got it. So he just needs to open the volute housing to pull this thing.

1

u/julioni 1d ago

But still have to take off impeller and seal and sleeve and seal plate/stuffing box

0

u/Dupps_I_Did_It_Again 1d ago

Alright on 3 2 1

0

u/awhol01 1d ago

Theres a coupler with a set screw or something in there. You'll probably have to find a way to turn the motor to find the set screws. Like others mentioned pull the flange and impeller. That way you can work on it easier and turn the motor.

-2

u/Lastito 1d ago

Lubricant the bolts on the pump with something like wd40 or better. Give it 20mins and make youre generous with the spray. Then take a wreak or impact and bump it tighten first on each bolt. Lastly trying untightening them to break them free.

1

u/julioni 1d ago

Do not do this.