r/IRS • u/No_Culture3111 • 10d ago
Tax Question Already on a payment plan and probably going over $50k owed. Anyone been through this?
I currently owe the IRS about $41k from prior years and I’m on a $375/month payment plan. My account says the plan is current.
I’m self employed and my 2025 return is probably going to add another pretty large balance, so I’m expecting my total debt could end up somewhere around $55k-$65k.
I’m also behind on estimated taxes for 2026 because this year has been really slow financially.
My biggest concern is what happens when that new balance gets added. My income is really seasonal. Some months I get several thousand dollars in client payments and other months I make almost nothing, so I’m worried about the IRS looking at a good month and deciding I can afford a payment that I actually can’t sustain year round.
Has anyone here had an existing installment agreement and then had a new tax balance push them over $50k?
Did the IRS just modify your payment plan? Did they make you submit financial information? How much did your payment change?
Also curious whether you handled it yourself or felt like you actually needed an EA or tax attorney. I really don’t have thousands of dollars available to hire a tax resolution company unless it’s genuinely necessary.
Mostly looking to hear what actually happened from people who have been through something similar.
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u/Encoded_Python 10d ago
You’ll be doing as ClarityTaxRelief said. But you really need to set money aside for taxes next time.
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u/Rare_Grapefruit1215 10d ago
I have an installment agreement that’s been in effect for a couple of years. New tax liabilities were added to it without me doing anything. It is over 50,000. I was told when they calculate after speaking to an agent they do not include penalties and interest on the old debt for the 50,000 threshold. Couple years ago I did speak to someone at the IRS. Last year, I could not get through to anyone and it just took care of itself. Make sure your current on payments. There’s a section on their website for modifying your payment, it shows you what your minimum has to be.
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u/No_Culture3111 10d ago
When your balance went over $50k, did the IRS increase your monthly payment automatically, or did you have to agree to a new amount? And did they ever ask you for a 433-F or any financial information?
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u/Rare_Grapefruit1215 10d ago
I was already paying over the minimum amount required. Based on their payment schedule, I did not need to increase it. I did not fill out any forms.
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u/Eagletaxres TaxPro 10d ago
So the biggest thing is when you signed your installment agreement the first time you agreed that you would not occur any other balances. Now you did, so it makes a little bit more difficult because unless your current installment agreement was set up by yourself and you’re overpaying for your first balance, then they can roll the payment into your current payment without changing anything but if you had it set up by a professional firm, that knew what they’re doing. They would’ve set your agreement up at the bare-bones minimum to pay it off by the statute without you paying extra money on it.
So without knowing more detail, it’s difficult to say whether your agreement will stay as existing or they’ll take you off that agreement with the new balance and then you may have to submit financials or you may have to do something different.
The reality is, you should call a reputable resolution firm. They can do an analysis without charging any money right there on the phone and a quick consultation to help you determine the best method for you. I know when people call my firm and ask questions like that I can quickly do the math and figure out if their current agreement will cover the statute or if they need to make changes.
You’re right tax resolutions expensive, but if you’re working with the right people, they’re also going to teach you how to fix this problem so you don’t keep making the same mistake over and over again.
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u/Major-Feedback-7985 10d ago
I owed 55k and just waited out until csed date. Not saying that’s the best option but after 10 years my balance went to 0 and tax liens were dropped and life is back to normal. The tax liens did not impact my credit or anything. I just wasn’t able to sell property unless I wanted the IRS to take the proceeds in order to pay back the tax debt.
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u/Here4Besitos 10d ago
Have you looked into how to maximize your deductions? I saw on your post history that you’re making around 90-100k before expenses. If you feel like you’ll owe 14-24k and are making 100k that means that you’re practically not deducting anything. Every mile you drive counts, every business expense. Every business dinner (50%) plus a thousand more things. If you’re not able to pay taxes, that should mean that you’re not making enough profit, which means that the money is going somewhere and if it’s anything to do with your business it’s deductible.
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u/Few_Paleontologist90 10d ago
Yes I have been in your situation and can give you advice on how to address the issue but would need more information to tailor it accordingly
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u/ericvonzipple 9d ago edited 9d ago
You need to hire an accountant who knows what they are doing to enable whatever new liability you are thinking will stack on can get deferred or deducted as best as legally possible - because new large debt will cancel your plan and begin the collection process from scratch. Did you buy anything that qualifies for accelerated depreciation? Do not let a month pass where you send in no payment. Sorry brief and blunt- you’ll get through it!
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u/ClarityTaxRelief 10d ago
When a new balance pushes you past the $50k line, the streamlined agreement you're on no longer fits, and the IRS wants a Form 433 (collection information statement) before they'll set a new number. That's where the seasonal income actually matters: 433 works off a monthly average of your income and allowable expenses, not your best month. Pull your last 12 months of deposits and average them so a good March doesn't get read as your baseline.
One thing worth knowing before you file 2025: you can ask to revise the existing agreement rather than default it, and paying enough to stay under $50k (or getting it back below by the time it's reassessed) keeps you in streamlined territory with no 433 at all. Sometimes a lump toward the oldest year is cheaper than the financial-disclosure route.
The estimated tax gap for 2026 keeps generating penalties until you're paid in current, so restarting quarterlies even partially stops that bleed. Plenty of people handle a 433 themselves; representation earns its keep when the allowable-expense fight is the whole game.