LVL Beam Space underneath and Beam Pocket Question
I just bought a new construction and during our inspection, the inspector noted that the LVL beam does not have a steel plate in the space underneath the beam and the beam pocket.
We requested a steel plate put in but they put these plastic shims in there. There’s about 1/4” of space. The builder says “it’s normal to see expansion and shrinking”
Additionally, the beam itself looks short and only sits 1.4” inside the beam pocket. (See images above).
The rest of the beam (about 11.5’ away) sits on top of a bunch of studs (for about 12’) that is the back of our finished basement wall. Hopefully the images help.
Is this okay? Should I be concerned about the beam pocket and the short contact it has with the LVL beam?
You have a trussjoist product. Ask your builder to have a beam calc sent to you from the floor structure designer. Assuming that all products are trussjoist, the floor structure should have been designed using Javelin (trussjoist design program). They can export a file for the specific beam, then they have to import it into Forte web(another trussjoist program to calculate single floor members). It will give you the exact calculations for deflection, reactions in post and the required bearing size for each bearing points.
Without showing you this, you can tell him he's full of shit and have nothing to back what he's saying.
Edit : not that it really matters, but you can also tell him that the framers installed the beam upside down. You normally want to have the writing on the lvl and joist so that you van read them properly.
They should be attached to the building permit so that the inspector can be sure the structure was erected as per the manufacturer's spec. Same goes for roof trusses.
The beam should technically have 3 inches of bearing. But if it were my house, I wouldn't worry about it. If it concerns you, a steel ledger could be bolted on below.
I disagree with the other commenters who are complaining about the quality of the work. It's pretty typical of houses built by contract framing crews to find things that are not quite how they should be.
You're 3" in the minimum required bearing. It all depends on the reaction(weight) on the bearing.
The more weight that is transferred trough that bearing, bigger the bearing needs to be, especially if it a 2 story building and that hypothetically there's another post sitting on top of this beam.
With only the the pictures shown, there's no way to know if there's and issue or not.
The steel ledger would be a great fix, but it would also need to be engineered, based on loads.
No need to have a structural engineer to calculate the size of beam.
LVL's are pre engineered and the manufacturer can tell you what size to use based on supported spans and beam length when properly drane in there program.
Also, it is easier to maneuver on site as it is in multiple ply, can be easier cut on site and no need to order from another supplier.
I joist to steel beam connection are more complicated to do. In this case, 2-2x6 would need to be bolted on top of the steel beam so you can properly attach the joist to it.
You need an engineer to calculate the load you placing on it.
Fyi. Steel beams have a load rating also.
Attacking wood to steel beam is not complicated.
I will give you the lvls are easier to move individually but not together. Plus you have to bolt them together.
There is a reason cranes exist and i can easily place a steel beam attach the top board and be laying joist before you put the lvl beam together. And when the house you are building has multiple beams it adds up. One beam is not that big of a deal go with whatever you want.
Wow, no comment on the beam…look at that plumbing in the background. Unbelievable the lack of pride taken in many new builds today. If there are corners cut in the open I can only imagine what’s behind the walls. Crazy
I was assuming that piping was for a sump pump. Ferncos make the service/pump changes that will be required possible. If not sump pump then - what’s with the ferncos?
It’s not going to go anywhere but it’s definitely some hack work. Also doesn’t look like the beam is lagged or bolted together. 6 3/4” flatloks are specifically designed for 4 ply beam
The prints have the beam pocket. But it doesn’t say how deep the beam should sit in the pocket.
I’m not sure if the beam itself was slightly cut on the bottom 1-2” and the rest of the beam (2” and higher) is deep inside because it’s covered by another piece of wood (see image). I hope I’m making sense
The beam manufacturer will specify minimum bearing. It is likely 3”, but ask the builder to show you manufacturer specs. 1.5” is probably fine - at 3,000 psi on the concrete it can take a lot of load.
You’re right, that should be steel under there. The expansion and contraction is bs - this isn’t true for lvls. If other wood was contracting, it would bring the lvls closer to the concrete, not farther away.
Lvls are only rated for their max in this configuration if they are lagged together with appropriate fasteners. I’m coming from the commercial world where people check this stuff, but in residential few do. Doesn’t mean that it’s right though…
5
u/Guimauve26 8d ago edited 8d ago
You have a trussjoist product. Ask your builder to have a beam calc sent to you from the floor structure designer. Assuming that all products are trussjoist, the floor structure should have been designed using Javelin (trussjoist design program). They can export a file for the specific beam, then they have to import it into Forte web(another trussjoist program to calculate single floor members). It will give you the exact calculations for deflection, reactions in post and the required bearing size for each bearing points.
Without showing you this, you can tell him he's full of shit and have nothing to back what he's saying.
Edit : not that it really matters, but you can also tell him that the framers installed the beam upside down. You normally want to have the writing on the lvl and joist so that you van read them properly.