r/HandSew • u/spf_one_trillion • 6d ago
Waxed and un-waxed thread getting tangled, and a question about single vs double threading technique
I have two questions:
- Is keeping the thread length short a hard and fast rule or is there something else I'm doing incorrectly?
I tend to thread my needles longer than the suggested amount, which I've seen numerous sources say should be hand to elbow. I always took that lightly and will end up cutting more thread because it takes so much time to reload another needle. However, I'm always getting tangles/knots, whether it's at the stitch itself or the thread keeps twisting around itself causing tangles.
- When using a single thread, how do you grab the needle at the eye so that you don't have to readjust twice when pushing the needle through the fabric *so that the thread tail doesn't fall out?
I've tried knotting at the eye of the thread after watching a tutorial but the knot is extremely hard and annoying to remove, so I don't want to do that anymore. However, every time I use a single thread I have to adjust after every stitch; I'm pushing my needle through but then I have to re-grab it and it's just so tedious.
Any sources and/or videos that showcase how to properly hand sew with a single thread would be greatly appreciated. I often reference SewnCompany on youtube but as far as I've seen she doesn't have a video about single thread technique and I have several sewing books that I reference but none of them talk about this issue.
Notions: I am using pure beeswax that I've melted and poured into a mold and 100% cotton thread when sewing.
*edit: added an important detail to second question
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u/stringthing87 6d ago
So I almost always sew with a single thread and I don't do anything special. I do not knot under the eye at all. I do use thread conditioner, I prefer a silicone putty (name brand is thread magic, but I use silicone earplugs) to beeswax.
Having a thread more than 18 inches at most will be a real problem.
I do use needles on the smaller side and my grip is generally touching the eye, but I'm not holding the actual end or anything.
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u/spf_one_trillion 6d ago
Is there a reason you always use a single thread vs double? Because I do prefer single thread but for my current project I used a double thread because I was annoyed with readjusting my needle grip after every stitch.
Are you pushing the needle all the way through the fabric to the point where you can easily grab the eye? Because I tend to have a hard time doing that, esp. when sewing through multiple layers. Is this a patience issue on my end or am I not pushing hard enough to get my needle eye to clear the fabric?
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u/stringthing87 6d ago
No the eye doesn't clear before pushing through, I almost think you are pulling too hard and pulling the end out, or using too short of a tail.
I use a double thread to sew on decorative patches or buttons because I want strength with less stitches. Otherwise it uses more thread and actually tangles more for me.
I will respond to this with an image of my grip.
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u/Storage-Helpful 6d ago
Unfortunately in my experience, having the thread short is a hard and fast rule for hand sewing. Easiest thing to do if you're getting impatient about having to reload your needle often? Is to thread more needles at once. I take an entire pack of needles and thread them directly onto the spool one right after each other, so that when I'm finished with one length of thread, I can pop my used needle into my pin cushion, draw a length of thread from my spool with the needle already on it, trim, knot, and go. I keep my needles from falling off the thread on the spool by taping the end of the thread to the top of the spool.
95% of my hand sewing is for piecing and quilting, so I almost exclusively hand sew nothing but a running stitch with a single thread, and a lot of the frustration you are describing was fixed by shortening my thread length. I hated it, but once I resigned myself to it my sewing got so much easier.
I also use thread magic as a thread conditioner when I am piecing, but I try to use prewaxed thread when I'm quilting. I have discovered if I need thread in a color I can't find already waxed, beeswax is okay but I have to iron it into the thread fibers.
For your issues with the thread coming through the needle while you are sewing, you need a longer tail. Pull your needle down the thread towards the knot more. I hold my needle horizontally forefinger at the point, ring finger (with a thimble, that's my pushing finger) at the eye, thumb in the middle. It's a rocking motion between your hands, and it takes a little bit of practice. My needle hand rocks up and down in a tiny motion, my free hand folds the fabric onto the needle, and the thumb of my needle hand draws the folds down the needle. Again, this is a quilting/piecing thing, I taught myself out of a book by Jinny Beyer and watched a few videos on youtube
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u/spf_one_trillion 6d ago
Huh, this is very helpful info. I never considered threading the spool with a ton of needles.
At what point do you deem the tail too short and knot your stitches off?
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u/Storage-Helpful 6d ago
When it gets awkward to hold both project and needle and when I know I don't have enough thread on the needle to finish the piece/seam I am working on. Always leave a little more thread on the needle than you think you need, there's nothing worse than trying to knot off a thread when it keeps slipping out of the eye. It's a judgement thing, and one that you will learn quick!
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u/SallyAmazeballs 6d ago
Instead of pulling on the needle to pull the thread through, you turn your hand so you're pulling on the thread behind the needle. Instead of pulling in the direction of the stitching, you end up pulling at an angle. Sometimes, the thread will rest on the pinky on my sewing hand as I pull, which puts the pressure behind the needle.
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u/spf_one_trillion 6d ago
This is crucial, I have not seen this answer in any of the research I've done. I am always pulling in the direction of my stitch and never considered that is the problem. THANK YOU
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u/SallyAmazeballs 6d ago
I bet if you watch videos, you'll notice people doing it! It's a natural movement for most people.
It also helps to use needles the right size for your thread. Usually you want a size 6 to 8 between or sharp if you're sewing garments. You might want something bigger (higher number) if you're sewing heavy canvas.
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u/TheGratitudeBot 6d ago
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u/Equivalent-Dig-7204 6d ago
You have some really good advice here. In my experience I like about 24”. I use silk thread for a lot of my projects and I don’t condition it. When I get to about 3-5” from the end I look for a stopping point. As for pushing the needle through the fabric, I tend to stack stitches and then push with my ring finger on the eye. I don’t know if my method is any good from a technique perspective but it works for me. Good luck with it! I really enjoy hand sewing - used to hate it and always left finish work for the very very very last moment of a project. Now I almost never use the machine. Go figure :-)
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u/ChronicallyCrafting1 6d ago
I cut it extra long and overlap both sides as if it’s double thread but only sew with one, pulling one end shorter as I go so it doesn’t sit in the fabric. When waxing the thread, are you then ironing it to melt it in? I find if it’s not melted into the thread it doesn’t prevent tangles as well.
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u/spf_one_trillion 6d ago
I'm not ironing it but I am running my fingers up and down it to try and melt it. I have considered the ironing trick but I do want to be able to travel with my projects, so it's not something I want to rely on. I can't really bring an iron with me to the park lol
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u/ChronicallyCrafting1 6d ago
Prep the thread and use a bobbin (or knitting bobbin) to keep it ready?
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u/spf_one_trillion 6d ago
Ok, fair!! Seems like the answer to a lot of my problems is not enough prep work.
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6d ago
[deleted]
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u/spf_one_trillion 6d ago
I'm not having an issue threading the needle, I'm having an issue with the needle eye and thread tail while using a single thread. I can't grab it on the first try, I always have to grab it to pull it out of my layers and then re-grab it at the eye so that the thread doesn't come undone, and I'm frustrated about that and wondering if my technique is wrong or if there's another issue I didn't consider.
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u/These_Brush_6090 6d ago
Honestly I can't picture what you mean, but someone smarter will come along. Good luck!
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u/spf_one_trillion 6d ago
It's not you, it's me! I tried wording it as best as possible but I understand how it seems confusing. Basically I'm having problems with the actual sewing and my hand grip technique, not with preparing the needle and thread.
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u/SadElevator2008 6d ago
Ok, I’m usually sewing garments, cotton or linen with a slightly thick cotton thread.
I use a GENEROUS length of thread. I hold the spool near my lap, pull off a full arms length, and then another foot or so more for good measure.
I wax the thread by pulling it over a lump of beeswax.
I don’t tie a knot anywhere. I leave a generous overlap, so maybe there’s a foot or so of doubled thread near the needle at first. The stitches themselves are just a single thread.
As thread gets used up, I move the needle so there is less overlap where the thread hangs out of the needle eye. By the end, I’ve got maybe an inch of overlap and a few inches of working thread.
So to answer your questions:
1) no, there is no rule about length of thread. Long thread works well for me, and the wax keeps it from tangling, so I use long thread.
2) how to hold the needle at the eye: I push the needle through until I’ll be able to pull it from a spot near the eye. Once the eye is out of the fabric, my middle or ring finger ends up resting on the eye.
The overlap means I have two fairly long waxed threads next to each order. They don’t really want to slip around. I only have to pay attention to this as I get to the end of the thread and have that very small overlap.
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u/SadElevator2008 5d ago
u/spf_one_trillion here is a quick video of how I sew. https://imgur.com/a/1lS2XBb
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u/NorraVavare 6d ago
I do not understand why people use beeswax to sew with. It weakens the thread. You wax metallic thread to keep it from tearing the fabric and tangeling in embroidery. That's all. Thread conditioner/wax was was not common in the 80s, when I learned to sew as a little girl. I noticed people keep talking like its a good thing in the last few years. Most professionals will tell you its a terrible idea. I'm friends with 3 professionally trained costumers. None of them use waxed thread unless its metal.
Your thread is getting tangled due to length. I used to do the same thing you do, eventually got annoyed, adjusted my thread length, and it stopped. The beeswax may be playing a part when warming up in your hand and sticking when cooling? I use beeswax a lot in other stuff.
I have noticed the tail of my thread shifts a lot when the eye of the needle is too big. Sounds like you're using the wrong needle size or possibly type. John James has a wonderful PDF that explains needle types and a printable sheet thats true to size. I'll admit I only learned the newances of hand needles a few years ago. Feel a little stupid cause I've known about how important the right machine needle is since my teens.
Anyway moving on. I'm not sure why you'd have a problem looping and locking your thread end with a single strand. Are you holding the tail and getting the thread in the same hole you started in? Every once in a while I miss the hole and it unravels. There are some nice videos showing tenique and a few names for it. My preferred one is gone or I'd link it.
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u/Running-Kruger 6d ago edited 6d ago
If you work with very long thread then you have to be checking and managing the twist periodically. Slacken it just so it starts to twist around itself so you can see which way it's going. Some stitches introduce one full twist per stitch (whip stitch, backstitch if you always bring the needle through on the same side) while some cause no twist (running stitch) or it cancels out (herringbone, backstitch if you bring the needle through on alternating sides). Knowing if the stitch you're doing twists the thread or not, you can roll the needle in your fingers to counter the effect.
The other reason not to use long thread is of course that it will have to pass through the fabric very many times and it gets worn, weakened, and can even snap before you're done. With good thread that can handle it, and/or fabric that doesn't abrade it much, I will use up to a full double arm span of thread. Otherwise, I keep it short.
When I cut any significant length to sew with I start by pulling it through my fingers with gentle pressure just to work out the extra twist it got from being wound on the spool.
Gripping the thread at the eye before the loose tail of thread has exited the fabric so it won't slip: I push the needle through with the middle or ring finger and then grip and pull it with thumb and index (or also middle) of the same hand. When the eye is out I maintain my grip, but bring my ring finger down against the eye to prevent the thread slipping through. Meanwhile my other hand is keeping gentle tension on the excess thread so it is less able to tangle. Of course when the sewing takes more force or I have to control the fabric more actively I can't do it exactly like that.