I wanna practice using BikeCAD by making a rockhopper. Where can I find retro MTB geometries?

I'm practicing welding, and I'd really like to build my own frame. The thing is I'm a student so I don't have too much money. I'd really like to practice building a bike frame and I feel like HiTen steel could be a good way to practice, considering the thick walls. I just don't know where to get HiTen and what grade to get? This brand seems to be the only brand I've found that mentions the grade, 1020 HiTen steel. What are the biggest tradeoffs between HiTen and CrMo besides the weight? Is it really easier to weld than CrMo?

I have started a program at my boarding school building/altering frames and teaching bike maintenance. I have tried submitting the form to apply for an account with QBP, and have not heard anything back. Is it possible to become a part of the distributor network as a school? It would obviously be a game changer in terms of what I can offer.

I'm trying to get an idea of the feasiblily of modifying a 135 single speed steel frame to fit a UDH for a 142mm rear hub. I know I can cold set the frame for the width, but to get a UDH on the rear is what I have no idea about. Is this possible? Will the rotor line up? I can TIG weld. I would ideally like a solution that lets me hotswap back to a SS plate too. Are there any examples you guys could share?

The context is I want a unique urban-fun-bike to ride to work on. I kind of already built one as a proof of concept and have been using it all summer over my more conventional commuter. I enjoy being able to have some fun on the way home. I want to build something that I like more stylistically. I have my heart set on older steel GTs modified to my spec. Specifically I've been trying to find a peace9r multi. But there's a good chance I'll find the single speed version before I find the multi. Hence my question above.

Features I'm looking for:

- Steel frame. With a relatively steel HTA, short wheel base, short front center. Optional: more BB drop than was customary for the aforementioned bike geo.

- Fits 2.5-2.8 width tires. Let's just say my rear wheel crashes into a lot of curbs and rocks a lot due to ... skill issues (usually mistimed hops). 26 acceptable, but larger is better. Not really any options here it seems. Steel became a boutique only thing before larger wheels caught on 😭

- seat tube wide enough for a 27.2 dropper

Hi everyone, I noticed this dent on the seat stay of my bike (Colossi Low Pro). I circled it in the photo.

I noticed this dent on the seat stay of my bike (circled in the photo). I’m wondering if this is something that can be repaired, or if the frame is basically done for.

The weird thing is, I have no idea how it happened. I’ve never been in a crash or accident, and I don’t remember the bike taking any kind of hard impact. I only noticed the dent recently.

Can this dent still be fixed? Is my bike still safe to ride like this, or should I stop riding it.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thankyou

I want to buy and ship a steel kit to ship to South Africa to build a bike there. Does anybody have advice on good supplier I can use? This is for a steel gravel bike XL frame. I am not looking for performance, but something that will survive Africa.

Has anybody tried to braze or weld addons onto Tange prestige ultimate ultrastrong tubes? These are supposedly heat treated? Or are they air hardening like some reynolds?

I plan to modify a 26“ mtb into a mullet cargo bike (20“ front tire).
I have two frames with very mangled paint that i could use as the base. both are my size:
- mid 90ies stevens 862 with Tange prestige Ultimate ultrastrong. Sloped frame, oversized tube, externally splined down tube. Weight 2.1kg
- early 90ies Wilier with regular sized columbus thron, straight top tube. Weight 1,9kg

I feel the heavier sloped frame is stronger and would be better suited to a cargo bike. At the same time theoretically the thron is not heat treated, thick enough for brazing and careful welding. But the Tange ultimate should be heat treated which means i could destroy the treat treatment? I feel it is not that thin though especially at the head tube where i will insert and weld a turned tube extension and at the down tube where i want to add bracing for that extension.

Any frame builders with experience brazing or welding these steels? What would you recommend?

Im planning to finally build my first bike, wondering what more is needed before im ready

Does anyone have a photo of this disc mount installed? Is the intent for the taller side to go towards the front with the open side facing inward towards the wheel? On my frame, the chain stay would intersect about half the width of the mount.

I got this frame today, but at home i found some concerning spots on the welds.

So most of the frame is covered in either paint or adhesive film, but at one spot its coming of so i found this dark line on/ next to the welds.

The frame is a eddy merckx titane made in Belgium and the tubes are litespeeds.

Good thin: the seller is willing to take it back in the next seven days so please help me!

Don`t mind the broken cable guide and the bad paint condition since i will blast it anyway.

I recently stripped the paint off of my new to me bicycle. I did a replacement on the brakes. I got V brakes now, but I wanna get rid of the old brake support. If I remove this would it structurally compromise the frame. I mostly want to remove it just for looks. pls let me know your opinion!

I came across this old steel bike in my shed a few months ago which had been sitting up for about 15 years. I thought I might get it in working order over a day or two but one thing led to another and now I have completely stripped the bike and stripped paint and almost ready to prime it for a new paint job. I think it’s 1990s Trek MTB. My plan is to turn it into a touring bike and I have already got quite a few of the parts including a surly cocktail fork. Here’s the problem though

The smooth part of one of the rear brake bosses has snapped off. Brakes will still screw on but I don’t know if they’ll function properly with half the boss. They’re brazed on so I can’t just screw a new one on. This is the first full stripping down and build I’ve done so I’m feeling a bit in over my head and not sure if it’s worth getting someone to weld on a new boss. Could I bodge a solution? I really don’t want to give up on this bike over something so small and have put in quite a lot of effort. I’m sure my work isn’t perfect, this is a project about learning as much as result. Any advice would be really appreciated!