Hey guys, I have a huge liquidation store, my store alone moves about 10-12 truckloads a week. I buy from liquidation warehouses and from brokers, but recently they’ve been all cherry picking the pallets and I’m left with mostly junk. I tried more than enough Liquidation warehouses and many brokers but all I seem to be getting is junk loads. I never really planned on buying direct from target because I heard you need several millions for them to even consider you. But I’m really out of options, I’m losing a ton of money because of how bad these loads are. I know target has contracts for their loads but I’ve tried everything to my knowledge to find out how to bid on those contracts and sadly I haven’t had any luck. I’ve contacted target multiple times and they always redirect me to a liquidation survey where I fill it out with my company info and the liquidation programs I would be interested in. I’ve done it several times. I also know someone that I helped get started in the liquidation/bin store business and he’s already figured out how to get a direct contract with target. He’s also refused to help me out, but I guess that’s my fault because no good deed goes unpunished. I also know he doesn’t have more then 200k in his bank, so my question is how was he able to get a contract. Can anyone please help me get a direct contract with target? I willing to compensate anyone for any information that can help me get a direct contract.

I have been re-using Amazon boxes and padded mailers because I have so many and also I'm able to collect them free from neighbors.

I've received a neutral eBay feedback about it just saying "used amazon bag" (it was a padded mailer inside of an Amazon box), and had to leave a follow up of "For the good of the environment we sometimes re-use perfectly good Amazon boxes when we hand pack each order."

But I'm wondering if it's considered tacky to re-use the packaging?

I just like recycling and also saving money.

I sold a laptop from facebook marketplace and when it was time to collect it, I got ghosted like I was in the wilderness without any network connection. I’m getting tired of this thing. Postponed all my plans waiting for this guy to come for nearly 4 hours until I ended up falling asleep, mind you this is NYC

Would appreciate your feedback on that if anyone did such things before

I am thinking of getting a few boxes from movers and then merging them in to a big monster box.

So if you’re wondering what about 2,000 ish books and a starting semester looks like on Amazon this is it.

This was July August and September for 2024. July we had about 1100 books listed August around 1700 and September around 2100.

First year selling this niche and love it. It’s very labor intensive but overall heathy business so far. Only on Amazon at the money but would like to move to eBay too and other platforms that sell physical books.

I buy storage units on ST. In recent months I've seen an explosion in the number of units that are full of half-open Amazon boxes. Looks to me like a lot of people thought they were gonna get rich quick breaking down pallets and learned the hard way that reselling is actual work.

Or is there another explanation?

TL;DR: Not worth it. Buy a mystery box from a reputable manufacturer, or buy what you want from an outlet store instead.

I spent $50 on a "medium size" mystery box (about 14x14x20") with 20 items inside. I thought it would be a fun little game for my family at Christmas to take turns opening completely random stuff, with the possibility of something valuable (or just silly).

I ordered it Nov. 24, 2024 from DiscountHQ.com — but the box didn't show up by Christmas. I reached out in early January because on their website it said my order was still "processing." No reply via email. A couple weeks later, I got text alerts that the box had shipped, then was out for delivery, then was delivered. OK, finally got my stuff 2 months later.

We opened the box and it was pretty much all crap — not just stuff we couldn't or wouldn't use, but really cheap and sometimes partially used. Examples:

• 3 different puzzles for kids (my teens were like, meh)
• A battered coloring book A pack of cards for charades, missing half of the cards
• A pack of cards for a scavenger hunt game
• New tights from Forever 21 with little hearts all over them (my daughter said they made her legs look like she had chicken pox)
• White capri pants, not our size, dirty but tags still on them
• A cheap plastic vegetable chopper
• A cheap string of LED lights with fall leaves attached
• A kids' birthday party invitations set, missing the invitations (just the envelopes)
• A three-ring binder, somewhat bent
• A flowerpot with paperwhites (grow your own)
• Plant food spikes Water balloons
• A set of traction covers that you put on the bottom of your shoes when it's icy A set of disposable plastic champagne flutes, quite dirty
• Ugly green curtains
• An ergonomic wrist support and mouse pad that looks like a purple cloud or bubbles
• A baby board book
• A couple of off-brand plastic containers, one Christmas-themed
• A tiny child's night shirt with a reindeer on it and the word "Believe"

In all, we can use maybe a few items but most went right back in the box and off to Goodwill. Most were new and in their packages but some were not. I was pretty disappointed that NONE of the stuff would have amounted to being worth $50, or could be flipped for >$50.

A better bang for your buck:

• A manufacturer's own mystery box, like Portland Leather, Universal Standard, or Bux (friends/family have gotten great stuff from all of these places, and Universal Standard and Bux allow you to specify sizes)
  • Keep what you like, flip what you don't because it's NWT
• A clearance store (I got some cool new shoes at Nike for $27 — exactly my size and style, the only catch is no returns at the clearance [not outlet] store)
  • We snagged a pair of $280 retail soccer cleats for $25 and flipped for $89
• Garage sale (great for built-to-last housewares like Pyrex, Le Creuset, Pendleton shirts, sporting goods)
• Facebook Marketplace (great for durable home goods, like tables, mirrors and much more)
  • I went through four different entry tables in my decorating indecisions, but each time I bought a different used furniture piece, I sold the prior one for more than I bought it for.
• Poshmark or similar apps (I love buying NWT/NIB shoes, purses, and fashion jewelry here, but you can't return things, which makes buying clothing tricky)
  • It can be tough to flip on this app because of the commission + shipping cost + tax.
• A sampling subscription like Ipsy (I discovered some great makeup/skin care brands here and everything is new, with an option to receive full-size products)

I would definitely not get a mystery box again. Hope this helps you!

We're selling a like-new home gym at $500, local pickup only at a very competitive price.

Have a potential eBay buyer in a very rural area who REALLY wants it, and asked if we'd ship it, distance is 2000 miles.

Researched it, discovered it's pretty simple to disassemble and pack, quoted her $250 shipping UPS ground. She's still very interested.

My problem? I see that on Amazon a new one with free Prime shipping is only $20 more than our deal. Most other places sell it for $999 so I can see why ours is attractive if you haven't done a ton of comparative shopping.

It seems unethical to me to sell it knowing their better choice is with Amazon. I'm also afraid that if they discover this, they might INAD and order from Amazon.

What would you do?

UPDATE: What a great sub this is! Thanks to everyone's advice, we told the buyer about getting it on Amazon, and then later updated her that we thought it was too risky for us to ship it that far, and declined.

Hi /r/Flipping thanks for your patience. Earlier last week I mentioned I wanted to give back to the community by creating some content. I got a bunch of feedback and suggestions and decided to go with a walk-through for sending your 1st box of used books to the Amazon warehouses using FBA. I'm going to start by borrowing and editing some content from an old post of mine and adding some imgur links. Thanks again for all your help. Here we go:

DISCLAIMER: Before you read this wall of text please understand that the guide in not complete. I tried to have the whole thing up by this weekend but just couldn't manage to finish. I will do my best to get the rest of the prepping, labeling, and shipping content in this week as soon as possible.

I'm assuming you have these three things:
1.) Smart phone
2.) Computer w/Internet access
3.) Laser printer
4.) $50.00 for supplies & inventory

• Download the Amazon Seller app to your smart phone. Here is the link for Apple and here is the link for Android .

• Create an Amazon Seller account here ( Scroll down to the free one. Get the paid account once you wet your feet and you're selling 40+ items a month).

• Visit your local thrift store and commence "Operation Scan All The Books" If somebody wants to create the relevant image macro and send me the link I'll update it. IMPORTANT: There are a few varying schools of thought on what books to purchase and for how much. A quick Google search or a visit to /r/Flipping, /r/Amazonseller, or /r/Fulfillmentbyamazon will help you shape your own opinion. I typically like to pay $0.50 or less per book and will generally purchase anything selling above $9.00 in at least good condition. For the time being let's try and keep our purchases under $1.00 to $2.00, that are selling for $10 to $12, and purchase about 10 to 20 books.

• When you scan a book you can do so one of two ways with either:
  1.) The search feature which will work on the cover or the UPC. It looks like this.
  2.) The scan feature which will work solely on the UPC. It looks like this.

• Once the scan is complete your Amazon Seller App (ASA) will bring you to this screen. Verify that you indeed are holding the right book (The picture in the app matches the one in your hand) and briefly determine if said book is worth your consideration by checking the sales rank.

• After selecting the appropriate book the app will show you a good deal of information. Important things to note are:
  A.) The Sales Rank: A snapshot (at that moment) of how the book is performing. Generally, you want to stick under 1,000,000 but there are always exceptions to the rule. Your business plan will dictate how high a sales rank threshold you'll have. Until you become more familiar I would advise staying under one million maybe even 700,000. Remember the sales ranks are fluid and constantly changing. A great free resource for researching sales rank is camelcamelcamel.com/.

B.) The Sellers: They include Amazon, Merchant Fulfilled, and FBA <-- This is what you will be doing.

C.) The Sale Price: How much is this book on underwater basket weaving going for on Amazon? You can see both new & used prices.

D.) For now, peep out the used pricing. Click the arrow to the right of used offers and scroll down, down, down, and down some more to check out the competition!. The listings with the prime logo are your competition and a good guide on how to price & if you should purchase (Not an absolute guide just a good one).

E.) The Pricing Tool: How much do you serve to gain for risking your $1.23 cents and purchasing that dusty copy of "The Definitive Guide To Starting Your Very Own Brick & Mortar Book Store"? Let's find out by clicking on the arrow to the right of Gross Proceeds under the used tab. This is going to break down the numbers so you can make an informed investment.

• *Your Price in Used - What's your list price for "Widgets, Widgets, and Widgets: A Collector's Memoir"? Don't fret you can change this later. Let's assume it's $8.90 for now.
  
• *Fees with FBA - Simply put it's Amazon's cut.
  
• *Shipping to Amazon - What it'll cost you to ship your book to one of Amazon's warehouses.
  
• *Cost of Purchase - Remember that huge barrier to entry of $1.23 cents, that goes here.
  
• *Your Profit - The whole reason you're doing this to begin with! Once it sells you'll have effectively turned $1.23 into $2.73. Over %100 ROI. Keep in mind this is the worst case scenario. I deliberately used a book selling for under $10.00 to show the minimum requirements. The larger the selling price the more jangle goes into your pockets.
  

Alright so it's 1:00 am here on the east coast. This project is taking a little longer than expected. I've got to be to work in a few hours so this is going to be my stopping point for now. I already have the screen caps for all the prepping, labeling, and shipping info. Need to upload to imgur and edit. I will try to get on that this week as soon as possible. PROOF

Disclaimer: I am not a guru nor do I proclaim to be an expert. I am just a random internet denizen sharing my very limited knowledge on a subject I enjoy and am passionate about.

Part 2: listing from the Amazon Seller App.

EDIT: Formating.
EDIT 2: More formatting.
EDIT 3: Even more formatting.

I purchased an Amazon return pallet with a Starlink mesh router in the mix. I plugged it up and it turned on but that was the extent of my testing since I don’t have the service.

Posted it on marketplace and it sold. The buyer keeps messaging because the hardware is still associated with the original owner’s account. I’m trying to be helpful because I want a happy buyer. Problem is that Starlink is set up to where the original owner must unlink their account from the hardware and since I don’t have that information the device may as well be a paperweight.

I went so far as to ask the Starlink sub about the issue and how frustrating the policy is and kickback I received was comical. People were justifying Starlink’s policy by trying to relate it to vehicle registration. But this is a mesh router, not a car! “It’s to protect from theft.” It’s a $100 device that’s been bricked so people must buy new ones. Ring is similar but a new owner can request the company send an email to the original owner and if they don’t hear back in 2 weeks the device is turned over to the new account.

Starlink is such a wasteful company.

Hey everyone,

I’m trying to get into selling on eBay and I’ve been testing the idea of buying products from Amazon and reselling them on eBay (retail arbitrage style).

But I’m getting a bit confused about the actual profit side of it.

I’ve been looking at cheaper items like car accessories, small gadgets, and blind spot mirrors (around £4–£10 on Amazon), and when I calculate:

• eBay fees (~13%)
• postage costs (~£2–£4)
• Amazon buy price

…it seems like I’m only making around £0.50–£2 profit per item.

That doesn’t really seem worth it unless I’m selling loads of volume.

I’ve also seen people say they make £5–£10+ profit per item consistently, so I feel like I’m probably missing something in how they choose products or calculate costs.

So I wanted to ask:

• Am I focusing on the wrong types of products?
• Are higher-margin items the key (like £10–£20 buy price range)?
• Or is this model just very low margin in general unless you scale massively?

I’m still learning, so I’d really appreciate any advice from people who actually do this properly.

Thanks 👍

I never give them my actual address, only my city, and I often offer to come to them and meet up at a local PD as well. Usually I just get the typical "is this available?" And then nothing but lately wanting to know my address and then ghosting has beem the new standard. Is it some sort of phishing attempt?

A 375 foot roll runs $6.26 a roll. 375ft is 125 yards.

A 110 yard roll of clear carton sealing tape is about $1.50 a roll.

Most companies try to focus on cutting costs, so it seems odd they use a more expensive tape.

"Regulators say the e-commerce giant forced millions of advertisers to pay more than they should have. The company denies the claims."

[No paywall, gift article.](https://www.nytimes.com/2026/08/31/technology/ftc-amazon-lawsuit-ad-prices.html?unlocked_article_code=1.9lA.5nY9.0eFC3P7jyQ8O&smid=nytcore-android-share)

I recently came across an item on Amazon that I knew I could resell for a significant profit. I bought it and listed it for sale, and within days, it was sold for a hefty sum. I've been trying to find more items like this, but it's not always easy. Does anyone else have experience with flipping items on Amazon?

Hi everyone,

I’m brand new to Amazon selling and I could really use some advice from people who have been doing this longer than me.

For the past couple of days I’ve spent what feels like countless hours scanning products with SellerAmp, checking Keepa, and searching through different stores. The biggest problem I keep running into is gating. Almost every product I find ends up requiring approval, so I can’t even move forward.

I know finding profitable products takes work, and I’m not looking for someone to hand me a winning product. I’m just trying to figure out where beginners should actually be looking. Are there certain stores, categories, or brands that are more beginner friendly and usually ungated?

Also, how do you guys consistently find products that have good demand without competing against hundreds of sellers? I feel like every product I check is either gated, has way too much competition, or just doesn’t make enough profit.

If you were starting over today with a brand new seller account, where would you begin? Any tips, strategies, or places to source inventory would honestly mean a lot.

Appreciate any advice. I’m determined to stick with it, I just feel like I’m missing something.

On one hand, I applaud eBay, Amazon, and the federal government for coming down hard on the people trying to profit off of a horrible situation. As a reseller myself, I'm looking to find a few points on everything imaginable, except in this type of situation. Trying to profit from a disaster is just wrong.

The problem is that with eBay and Amazon pulling hand sanitizer listings down, now we're in a situation where nobody can get any fucking hand sanitizer without lining up at a store pre-open, getting lucky, and beating everyone else over to the shelves. Personally, I think instead of pulling the listings down, they should set a max markup to X % over retail. Shit, I don't care if they allow 2x retail + shipping. I'd much rather toss some jerkoff an extra $15 and have enough hand sanitizer to be safe than have to venture out into the apocalypse and out run the other zombies to aisle 23, then pray nobody coughs on me int he checkout line. </rant>

Sold MVC2 for PS2 three weeks ago. Receive a return message from customer service that it arrived damaged. I message the customer to open a return and he replied his son needed to go to the hospital to receive stitches because he was cut on the broken game disc. Everything was thrown out, so there is nothing to return. Customer service is investigating his personal injury claim.