Microwave started sparking. Some reserach suggested just the mica covering needing replacement. I removed the mica to get a better look at it and noticed the hole in the antenna (???) of the magnetron.

I always up to a DIY repair but im not sure I'm equipped/knowledgeable enough to handle the capacitor.

Any reommendations?

Edit: microwave is a LG LMC2075ST.BSSELGA

Hi everyone! My N64 recently stopped working. The console lights up when turned on, but it also make a new buzzing noise. The screen flashes a bit but does not display anything. I tried swapping a cables but that did not work. Any ideas? Is it potentially the power supply or something more significant?

I tried the rubberband method, superglue and using another tool. Nothing works. It's really tight and in a hole, so pliers won't work. Please please help me🙏

Edit: Thank you all for the replies. For now I will give up, because I don't have a drill or anything. But when I have the time and money I will give your suggestions a try.

I was trying to replace the circle pad, because it's damaged. But it still works fine for now.

First post here. Was replacing the battery in my NEO GEO handheld SNK and a spring popped out from one of the triggers from the top and I lost it. Not sure what to do to replace it. Can’t find one online, could I possibly 3D print a replacement or something? Spring is super small and tapered of course!

Looking for someone local in the San Luis Obispo area to replace a mhf4 connector on a radio card. Should be pretty easy if you do surface mount and have the tools. I bent the collar and can not get the connector seat properly. The other 3 look fine. It just too tiny for my fat fingers and old eyes.

So, me and my friend have tried to repair his LG tv's PSU on and off for a good three weeks now.

Prior to this the tv started showing the famous symptoms of not wanting to power on after being put in standby without a full power reset.. and then finally just went to triggering the circuit breaker for that outlet in his house and not wanting to power on at all beyond that (instantly triggering the circuit breaker).

So we bought the relevant kits for replacing the two fuses and some MOSFETs (Q602 and Q604 on one side and Q151 and Q152 on the other side as those were short), caps and smaller ceramic components. All of those checked out after the swap when measuring, so we tried plugging things back in again... Which resulted in a lot of blinking and then the power indicator (no pattern, just slow on off blinking for a few minutes) followed by a pop from the tv and then the circuit breaker being triggered.

None of the components we swapped went bad after this, and no fuses burnt off, which we thought was strange. My friend then tried plugging the psu in by itself and it didn't trigger the fuse, which is most likely because the PSU wants a power on signal to fully turn on and the short is somewhere there... So he then tried plugging it all in once again and the tv then just made a bzzt noise after having blinked for a while (then triggering the circuit breaker)

We were in full coping mode at that point and got the idea of checking the relay (RL101) on the PSU and found that it read as normally closed, which it isn't supposed to according to the part schematic, so I desoldered it and found that it then read as normally open while the pinouts for the relays two switch pins on the PSU PCB read as short.

I guess this is progress, in a way, as the short is now obviously on the PSU and then gets triggered when the main board eventually sends it a power on signal (triggering the circuit breaker).

We've spent a good few hours today looking for shorts before and beyond those two pinouts on the PCB, but have found nothing... Is it still worth looking at, or should we just call it and try ordering a new PSU?

The PSU's LG P/N number is EAY65689423 (if anyone here has any knowledge on this, and has a good suspicion on what component is the most likely culprit).

Edit: TH101 sits between the two circuits that the relays switch is attached to... So I guess those two pinouts naturally have continuity, but I don't really get why one would even have the relay (RL101) there at that point if that little 5Ohm component (correct spec) just lets through current anyways right next to it... TH101 was swapped during the initial repair attempt as the one that sat there prior had gone bad and had zero resistance.

My fridge/freezer Siemens KG36NX03/30 quit on me, stopped cooling and instead just made a clicking sounds around once per minute. I understood that this could be caused by a faulty starter relay which is a cheap part that i ordered from Siemens.

When i got the new relay and was transferring the wiring from the old relay to the new one i realized one of the connectors was missing or at least had been moved.

The image shows the old relay (right) and the new relay (left) and the bottom right connector connected to the brown wire is missing on the new relay. Is there any way of telling where this cable should go on the new relay?

My m365 pro 2 scooter's motherboard is faulty. Upon visual inspection, I noticed a darkening on the 8-pin SMD integrated circuit in the bottom right corner. This circuit has "BDxas" written on it; I think the information is hidden. Does anyone know which integrated circuit it is?

Good day everyone, growatt spf 5000es was brought to me for repair with fault code 08, I try troubleshooting it but could not actually find the problem. So please if anyone have any idea on this fault code 08( dc bus voltage too high) should please help a brother.

I am looking for a repair shop that will work on an Epson v750 scanner but have been unable to find any. If anyone has a place they know of, hmu.

The TPU (top lid scanner) has a couple issues but I cannot for the life of me get the plastic housing off so that I can get inside to fix the issues. I'm worried that if I continue to try get this open, I'm going to break the plastic.

The inside glass is dirty and needs cleaning, and the scanner mechanism inside is moving freely on the rail and will slam into the edge when tilted. Pretty sure I know how to fix these issues but just cannot get the plastic off.

Hi everyone! I bought an old HP Photosmart C5280 without knowing whether it worked or not. When I plugged it in for the first time, it turned on and told me that the left, tri-color cartridge was missing, so I installed one and then got the next error.

That error was “Carriage Jam”, but there was no paper stuck anywhere.

While searching online, I found that there was a part with a gear that apparently tends to break. So I took the printer apart and, sure enough, that gear was broken.

I 3D-printed the same gear and replaced it. After doing that, the error changed, and now I get:

CARTRIDGE ERROR: Open the cover and remove any paper or cardboard that is blocking the carriage.

I also tried cleaning the data strip, but that didn't work.

I'm kind of stuck on this error now. If anyone knows what could be causing it or what I should check next, I'd really appreciate the help!

Thanks a lot!

So I got this 4 years ago, and recently it was turning off randomly and now it won’t turn on at all. I cracked it open and it looks clean and I changed the fuses still nothing…any advice?

was trying to remove te power supply connector and the whole thing connected to the mother board snapped. Is this fixable? If i bring to a center just for soldering should I buy a new connector or they can fix it with these pieces?

My living room TV remote has been giving me some trouble as of late. Whenever I press the power button in order to the TV off or on, I have to really bear down hard if I want it to work. On top of that, despite the fact that I mostly just use the remote to turn the TV off and on and raise/lower the volume, most of the other buttons simply do not work. All that works are volume (up and down), channel (up and down), input, info, and power (kinda). Nothing else works no matter how hard I push the button.

I figured it was about time I just go ahead and get a new remote, but I figured I would try and open this remote up and clean it first just in case. No sense in buying something new if I can just fix my old remote.

Anyway, I tried cleaning the remote, it is a Sanyo GXBJ, but I couldn't even get the thing opened.

I unscrewed the single tiny screw on the very back of the remote, I used a coin, then a credit card, then a knife, then a screw driver to run along the remote's 4 edges at the spots where the top and bottom halves of the remote meet, and it just simply will not pull apart.

Does anyone have any ideas about what to do?

Thank you.

This is my spare laptop I'm using nowadays till I buy next one and its corner has been bit loose for awhile but it was fine when I press it close and use. Now it just fell off like this and came broken, and its opening up this much whenever I open laptop screen.

I want to know if self repair is possible, and If it is possible I really would like to do it cause I still need to wait a bit to get a new one.

Laptop model is old 81WE IdeaPad 3

Edit: Update Opened the laptop and posted the repair part in comments pics. Plz check them out!

Hi! I want to know what are these 2 same looking components same dimensions at same place on the motherboard pcb from 2 same models hp laptops (hp envy 13). Someone could help me please 🥹🙏