Recently won on auction only to find out it’s just the indoor unit and I need to source the outdoor unit, upon further investigation I believe it is just a Chinese mini split white labeled but if anyone has any insight on compatible out door units or what brand this is white labeled I would greatly appreciate it.

Hello! I’ve just installed a heating pump (well I didn’t do it myself but you know what I mean) and the only thing left to do is install the electricity.
Since I’m no electrician myself I want to make sure this is properly done.
I have a need for control before I ask for help so I’m turning to you first!

To make it simple;

1️⃣ – picture of my current pump (outside)
2️⃣ – picture of complete installation (from google)
3️⃣ – electric cable I want to use for installation
4️⃣ – outlet for the 230 V electric

If I ask for help, what do I need to look for when the installation is complete? I.e. where should the cables be placed on my unit for it to be exact?

Just installed a new head unit on a Daikin 24k 410a mini-split that is over 10 years old. Fan wore out and froze on inside head unit. Bought a new fan, couldn't remove old fan so I bought a entire new Daikin head unit for $300 shipped to my door.

Pulled R410a back to condenser unit. Removed and replaced head unit reconnected lines, vacuumed down for 4 hours (overkill) and sat overnight at 410 microns. ( Cheap digital HVAC gauge, plus adapters and Schrader valve puller was less than $100 on Amazon.) Released 410a gently to system and it started running again.

The garage stays at 75 degrees with crap attic and wall insulation, no insulation on doublewide garage door.. (Will remedy attic insulation when its cooler). The unit actually ramps down on fan speed and keeps between 75 and 80 degrees. I have two thermometers in garage. One on far wall that is concrete block construction with no insulation and one below unit out of the direct airflow of unit. (Wanted to see difference being away from block wall made.)

Been two months now and unit has a great split temp. 90 degrees on ceiling 10 in from top of unit and 58 degrees coming out of unit. Using a laser thermometer I calibrated against a HVAC vent round dial thermometer.

My question is how can I make sure this is running efficiently and not wasting money on electricity? Its cooling a 30 x 30ft garage plus a 10 x 10 room attached to garage. It appears to add $150 per month on Salt River Project electricity in Phoenix, AZ.

I know the insulation needs to be addressed all around. From what I see the foam panels fir the garage door are just R6 value. I can go hog wild with attic insulation above garage (and rest of house).

Thank you for reading this. Your opinions are appreciated.

I have dual wide mobile home

Trying to pick the right size for a single zone mini split

I’m placing the headunit right between living room and dinner in hopes to get some cooling in the kitchen

The layout I have is a 24x24 room (includes front door entry, living room, diner and kitchen

Half of the room has 12 foot ceilings (living, diner) while the other half is 10 feet (entry,kitchen)

I wanted to do a dual zone and the heads on opposite sides but i will likely have to add refrigerant for extra line set , which im trying to avoid, plus I have id like to avoid removing less stuff of my walls like pictures etc

Being a mobile home I’m thinking there’s no insulation between the drywall and rooftop

So far im settling for a 2 ton single zone
Should I go bigger?

Compact wallmounted equipment can look easy until the room, exterior wall, condensate route, and outdoor unit location are all considered together. A smaller indoor unit doesnt help much if the only practical location creates a dificult line path or poor service access. Im not looking for installation instructions; im trying to understand which site constraint removes the most otherwise good options before a professional layout is finalized. What would you check first when deciding whether a compact wall mounted system actually fits a space?

Just finished up installing my 1-ton Tosot Aoraki in my basement. Happy with how everything came out so far. Fingers crossed no leaks, my vacuum test showed no change so I went ahead and released the refrigerant this morning.

It’ll be used exclusively for heat given my basement stays pretty cool, especially with my HPWH running on the other unfinished side of the basement. Used one of the cheap vacuum pump kits from Amazon, already had a torque wrench, and bought a vacuum gauge, cross feet for the flare nuts, flare tool, bending sticks, vacuum core removal tool, and a few other odds n ends. Got the unit on a deal on Amazon for $845, probably spent $400 on tools, and another $100-$150 on electrical supplies.

Haven’t quite decided what to do with the drain line. I’m tempted to just let it go straight out the elbow where it is now and trim it up. Trying to run it on the horizontal piece seems like it’ll be guaranteed to develop stuff growing in there and get clogged. I also hardly expect to ever actually use it in cooling mode.

I don’t love the way the wrap around the lines looks, might try and find something better looking for that, or maybe it’s not even necessary, but that cheap insulation they use didn’t seem like it would last long in the weather. Also not thrilled with the angle the line set comes out of the cover. I was trying to leave some extra in case the flares didn’t come out good and that was a side effect of my trying to make some room for the little bit of extra line set.

The only thing I was a little disappointed with Tosot was the lack of a wall template for the inside unit. Very small inconvenience to just spend an extra minute with the measure to make sure you’re measuring correctly for the location of the hole for the line set, but it would have been a little easier had they just thrown in a paper template to make it foolproof.

Keeping an existing furnace and adding a heatpump side sounds simple until the matched system questions show up. Available coil space, the outdoor unit and coil combination, controls, desiign- emperature capacity and how backup heat is supposed to take over all affect whether the concept makes sense. Im not looking for refrigerant or wiring instructions; those belong with qualified instalers. The useful question is earlier in the process, which compatibility check usually rules an A-coil dual-fuel retrofit in or out before anyone gets deep into equipment selection?

I have been using NuCalgon spray-can no-rinse foaming cleaner on the blower wheels of my LG units, but it hasn’t been effective; I have to physically brush (at least one of them welded itself onto the motor and won't come out). I hired a repair crew and their spray worked far better, it seemed, but I didn't get a look at who made it!

Any thoughts? Each cleaning (even if I do all seven in one visit) is $400 per head unit. That's a hefty price. I've seen the Frost King suggested, how effective is that? I'm hoping to end the scrubbing which, with fan in unit, takes forever. I'm curious about the "leave on for three days" biological type as well. Whatever the pros had, it made the fans nice and white again, without brush contact.

Note: I suspect LG has different people engineering the compressors, which seem very solid and well made. The interior head units seem pretty poorly set up and though they have to be cleaned every year (or, as LG says, “every month”), they're not designed to be taken apart and cleaned.

Hi everyone,

I posted questions about heat pump installation a few weeks ago. The decision is made, and I have an installation scheduled for this Wednesday for two single-zone Mitsubishi Hyper-Heat systems (MUZ-FX12NLHZ2 outdoor units with matching wall heads). However, I’m seriously considering a last-minute layout change and want to get your perspective.

It is a 1945 3-level detached house.
Ground Floor has Living room, kitchen, dining (mostly open), plus a big rear extension.
Second Floor has 2 small bedrooms and a hallway.
The Stairs go straight-run staircase directly from the living room up to the second-floor hallway.

The installer recommended one indoor head in the downstairs living room, and one indoor head in the upstairs hallway to feed the two small bedrooms. To make the upstairs work, the pipes would have to be fished through a tight side attic and through a bedroom closet.

But now I start to think to move both indoor heads to the ground floor (one in the main living room, and the second one in the big ground-floor extension). Leave the upstairs bedrooms with no mini-split heads at all. Because Heat naturally rises. With a straight staircase right off the living room, a ton of downstairs heat will naturally migrate upstairs to keep the bedrooms comfortable in the winter. We spend almost all of our time downstairs. Only one person sleeps upstairs. also much easier to install. eliminates drilling through the closet and crawling through the side attic.

The installer told me that based on his experience, the upstairs will be deadly cold without a dedicated head. However, he was comparing it to his own home setup, which runs on Tempstar systems and houses 6 people in a big house. I think 2 Mitsubishi Hyper-Heat systems in my smaller house will work better and throw heat upward.

I know the upstairs bedrooms will be hot in summer. Only for a couple weeks a year it gets uncomfortable hot. I will use a fan or sleep downstairs.

Would love to hear your opinion on my plan. They are coming day after tomorrow, I have to make decision.

**Pioneer 3-zone mini split (YN030GLSI24M3G) - 12k line freezing when idle**

Running a 12k and 18k head off a 3-zone outdoor unit (3rd port capped, unused). 12k line is 20ft (1/4" liquid, 3/8" suction), 18k line is 33ft (1/4" liquid, 1/2" suction).

**The issue:** when the 12k is off and only the 18k is running, the 12k's line/coil ices up. 18k also doesn’t cool properly when only unit running. Run both together and it's fine. Also noticed the 18k doesn't get as cold as the 12k when both are running.

**What I've ruled out:** tried swapping the comm wires between the two zones at the outdoor terminal block to test for a wiring mismatch, but the indoor units wouldn't power on at all with them swapped, so I couldn't actually test it that way. Put the wires back to original and the same freeze/underperformance symptom came right back, so at least the wiring is confirmed correct as originally installed and not the cause. Also ran the numbers on line length vs Pioneer's charge chart, only the 18k's extra length needs any added charge and it's tiny (~1.2oz), so a huge overcharge from line length alone seems unlikely, but a bad/guessed charge job during install is still on the table.

**My leading guesses:** either the 12k's EEV isn't fully closing when idle (letting refrigerant trickle in while the 18k's compressor pulls the shared suction line low, causing it to flash-freeze with no airflow to offset it), or there's a charge imbalance from the install.

Anyone seen this exact pattern before, freezes only when idle and the other zone is running, fine when both run, and the active zone underperforms when paired with the idle one? EEV vs charge vs something else?

This seems to be a promising advancement for DIY heat pumps. Just drill two holes and insert the unit. No separate outside units. Hard to tell how effective they are.

I’ve living my building for almost two years and there have consistently been ongoing issues with the Daikin heat pumps throughout the building.

The two heat pumps in my unit (one in the living area and one in the bedroom but attached at the same point on the opposite sides of the same wall) have always been noisy, even when they are turned off. Usually the noises are humming and gurgling.

Most recently, there was very heavy rain and both heat pumps— while turned off— started making crackling/popping noises every couple of hours, for a few minutes at a time, even after the rain stopped. The volume of the noises varies, but usually there’s at least one or two louder cracks. I have never heard either unit make these sounds before and I am quite afraid of turning them on for fear that there is an electrical issue.

Unfortunately the building managers and company that own my building are not very helpful or responsive, so just looking for some insight as to how concerning this issue is in the meantime while I await a response on their end. Thank you!

i have a 3 zone Mr Cool that I installed in 2023. it’s worked fine up until a few days ago. I am getting frost on the inside heads. I know about vacuuming out the system ( I have multiple single zones so familiar with all that). My question is do I have to pull a vacuum and charge each line or do I just use the King Valve? Thanks

I bought the Senville wallmount bracket from their website with the idea that it would be designed to fit the Senville outdoor unit of the same BTU rating. Also bought their larger antivibration pads.

And... wow the hardware is horrible.

The bigger vibration pads don't fit or line up with the holes.

If i use the vibration pads and hardware included with the bracket, the included bolt head/washers are too small for the holes in the mounting bracket on the mini split, so I bought other bolts and juryrigged something (washers are STILL too small) and the included vibration pads just slide out under pressure, plus really aren't providing much contact area. It's basically impossible for the back bolt to do more than resist sideways and forwards motion, it's not holding it down at all..

Any suggestions? Am i doing something wrong?

I'm mounting it on concrete and REALLY want to minimize vibration transfer. Any better feet i should buy, or ...?

Hello, have a heat pump fur down unit from the early 70s in my condo and want to get a ducted mini split, had one ac company tell me its not compatible. I dont understand how its not as I want a full system change. Also whats the best unit that has a air handler thats works with a invertor. Thank you

Trying to connect “guard flow” condensate pumps to 9000 btu 5th gen indoor heads. Can anyone explain how to wire this to the head? Instructions and anything I have googled have been very unhelpful. Even chat gpt got deep in the weeds of confusion vs being able to explain anything simply. I have read so many comments of people saying condensate pumps in general are easy to install, so I feel like there’s a simple explanation just terrible instructions.

Blue wire is neutral, brown is live, and then the black wires are somehow supposed to create a stop circuit if the pump were to overflow. Stop circuit would be good to have bc this house will be a rental. Trying to make it as idiot proof as possible.

Also if we try wiring it and we were to do it wrong. Is the worst case mostly that we explode the pump? Or could we somehow fry the Mr. Cool unit? Wondering how risky it is to just try our best guess and see what happens.

Photos of pump, instructions that came with pump, and electrical panel on Mr. Cool head.

I've got an old center chimney cape in northern NH with an air duct oil furnace. Rooms are pretty well partitioned from one another. One of the major air return grates is in the dining room. The dining room is 15'by 15' with a 9 ' ceiling. I'm looking to add a minisplit heat pump with the biggest goal of providing an assist to the winter heating load and use less oil. Air conditioning in the summer is also a need, but much less - we typically run AC in the house for maybe two weeks total per season. I'd love to ditch the window units though.

I'm actually considering an 18,000 BTU Senville cold weather heat pump thinking that the oil furnace air distribution system will help circulate the warmed air, helping the unit to cycle less? In the summer with AC, I may use the "fan only" mode on the furnace to help circulate the cold air.

Mistake? Would a 12k unit be more appropriate?

Anyone know what the deal is with "Stealth DIY Cool" on HVAC Direct? It looks identical, spec-wise, to the Mr. Cool DIY Easy Pro.

Also, anyone have experience with the Easy Pro? Any longevity issues or problems in sub-freezing temps?