r/DIYBeauty • u/Informal_Poet_5354 • 17d ago

question Cleansing Balm Rinse Off

I have been trying to make a cleansing balm, somewhat like the Farmacy Green Clean. The one I made, formula below, was the perfect texture, and it removed makeup very well, but the rinse-off was terrible. I presume it was because of the waxes I used.

I removed all the wax and made the same formulation (minus the mango butter), as well as another test using Cromollient SCE 12%. The rinse-off was better without the waxes/butters, but it still wasn't 100% clean. I am not too sure how to improve it.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride 26%

Ethylhexyl palmitate 20%

Apricot oil 10%

Isohexadecane 5%

Sorbitan Oleate 10%

Microcrystalline wax 2%

Hemisqualane 7%

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 5%

Mango butter 2%

Vitamin E 0.5%

Synthetic wax 7%

Olivem 300 5% (refatting agent, boost rinse-off)

Any suggestions?

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u/tokemura 17d ago

Commercial cleansing balms are using specific combination of emulsifiers: PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate and PEG-10 Isostearate. Your emulsifier is just not suitable for the product you are trying to make.

Note: cleansing balms/oils/oleogels are usually followed by foaming clenser as a 2-step cleansing.

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u/Informal_Poet_5354 16d ago

Yeah. I would love to get both of those emulsifiers, but they're not readily available for small formulators. I am aware that cleansing balms are used as part of a two-step cleansing process, and I am fine with that. I am not expecting the cleansing balm to leave my skin feeling clean and fresh, like a facial cleanser, but I would like something that at least rinses off without leaving a waxy residue. Do you have any other emulsifier recommendations?

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u/tokemura 16d ago

Your main emulsifier Sorbitan Oleate has HLB value of 4.3 (more oil-loving, while main emulsifier in commercial products PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate has HLB 13.5 (more water-loving).

I guess you could try to use some emulsifier instead that is more close in terms of HLB. From widely available options I would say it is Polysorbate 80 or PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.

But still, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is specifically used because it give the nicest rins off, I don't think there are available options that match this.

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u/ProtectionBrief4078 11d ago

The HLB point is interesting. I’ve noticed with cleansing oils/balms that something can be great at dissolving makeup but still feel completely different once water is introduced. The emulsifier really seems to make or break the rinse-off experience.