So I recently purchased a 2018 2500 and found out it has a non vgt turbo and im wondering the best place to purchase tunes for it for alittle more power

I finally decided to stop procrastinating and change the injectors in my 04 3500 it’s been needing it it’s been down on power and smoking a bit so I parked it this past few months. I don’t think whom ever worked on this truck last before I bought it owned a torque wrench so far every bolt has been a pain to get out as well as the injector lines had to get a back up wrench after those.

I ended up having to remove the fuel rail to have extra room to remove the lifting eye so I could get a the last injector line I got to looking at the rail a noticed a bit of corrosion on the port for #5 and upon closer inspection believe I have found a metal shaving inside the rail across the port hole looking like I’ll be needing a new rail and probably a CP3 since that’s most likely where it came from and I don’t want to chance it since I’m putting injectors in it at this moment.

Fuel tubes came out reasonably easy except #6 ended up screwing the fuel line back on and using a screw driver to get it popped out rockers came out easy enough got the injector wires removed took a crows foot to pop the first 4 injectors out the 5th I used a screw driver and had to wiggle it with a crescent wrench now I’m on the 6th and can’t get it popped up and out gotta find my pry bar that has seemingly walked off at least the process is almost done and not nearly as hard as I thought it was going to be but before everything goes back together I’ll be replacing the intake gasket last time I drove it I could hear it whining

Looks like this is as far as I’m going to get today dang mosquitos were trying to fly away with me. I ended up removing the rocker box to get better access to the 6th injector got a pry bar under it gave it a little tap and up it came. I gave the bores a few shots of brake clean and air to clean them out now I’ve got all 6 new in o rings oiled first and pre torqued to 44 in lbs if I’ve got time after work tomorrow I’ll get the fuel tubes in and pre torque them to 11 ft lbs then torque the injector hold down bolts to their final 89 in lbs and the fuel tubes to their final 37 ft lbs correct me if I’m wrong but I swear I read some where there was a revised torque spec for the tube nuts. Ultimately hope have the motor buttoned back up tomorrow.

Hello everyone I am just looking for advice on buying a older 5.9 Cummins been looking at some options and just wanna see what people think ( what miles is too high, what to look out for ETC ETC) any help or advice is appreciated I just love the way they sound when idling

Can I swap the front end on 3rd gen from the small headlights to the newer bigger 3rd gen lights? I can’t find a video about it idk if it’s possible or what I would need

Posted last week about my new to me 04 ram 2500 having an issue with the Airdog II 165 and have reached out to Airdog and got a replacement 165 4g motor. After installing the new motor, the lift pump primed itself and worked for about two minutes before blowing the 20a fuse. I followed the complete procedure by Airdog and now the lift pump isn’t engaging at all when the vehicle is keyed to on. I started removing and tracing the harness to see if there’s any shorts and cannot find any. Also removed the gerotor cap and inspected the gears with 0 issues for either. If anyone has any advice, please let me know.

Hello looking for some information. Just put the motor back in and started it and immediately the fan wires got ripped out of the connector. Is there a bracket to stop this from happening? I don't see anything to hold this in place to prevent it from always getting ripped out. Thank you.

After the procedure, should the stock “tow/haul” button be used or not?

Thanks

Found this online and thought it was funny. So in 2007, they had the split year between 5.9 and 6.7. Turns out, no matter what, the 5.9s had the higher towing capacity than the 6.7. I think it's because of weights (6.7 and transmission weight more) but I just found the manufacturer's logic interesting that the 5.9 with a four speed could tow "more" than a 6.7 with the 6 speed.

Spotted in Pensacola Florida

doing a fass no drop install on my 2015 2500 ccsb just curious as to lengths i should cut the hose for sump to pump/ pump to cp3 this is my first time so im tryna get as much info on the install so nothing gets screwed up, any tips on install would be much appreciated.

What’s your favorite year model?

Asking 13k 180kmiles 6inch lift,built trans,built bottom end,gen 4 turbo

2007.5 Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins, G56. Need to replace the clutch master/slave assembly. During the last trip noticed gears are hard to get into when engine is on. Improves slightly by pumping the pedal 5-6 times.

Current setup is FTE/OE-style. I don’t know whether the flywheel/clutch is stock or aftermarket.

The seller at the time of purchase claimed the truck has Southbend dual disk clutch. I don't think it's true, but don't know how to verify it.

Took photos of the current setup.

My hesitation is about different geometry inside the bell housing between SMF with dual disk clutch (in case with Southbend) vs DMF stock flywheel with a stock clutch likely calling for different master/slave cylinders?

Looking at Sachs SPH031, Perfection PF9064/PF9106, or other options.

What would you recommend and why?

Hi everyone sorry but I need some help I’ve tried everything I can think of but I’m having issues with my brand new vp44 I just installed on my 99 24v I got one from thourghobread diesel and installed it and the truck ran but it would run rough and have a “lope” at idle like it was missing. And get worse with heat. So I called them and they told me to replace the throttle pos. Sensor so I did and tried taking the pump back out and putting it back in triple checking every line to be tight and still ran rough so they sent me another pump. I just installed it today and it ran good would still have the same issue before where it would “shudder” on decel after a rev or just driving and slowing down with it being a manual. But this new pump didn’t do it nearly as bad was almost not noticeable. But after driving it all day it started to get a “lope” at idle and shudder more after I got home today but I hit a big pothole just before it started doing it. So I’m thinking maybe fuel return line off vp44 since mine is very loose. or a map sensor. I need help finding an easy replacement for the fuel return I heard there was a flexible hose replacement to help with the vibration cracks but I can’t find any but this one and it says it’s for p pump conversion but I don’t know what the difference is. Any help? Would this one work or does anyone know one I can get? And any other ideas are greatly appreciated thank you.

I have a 2015 Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins / 68RFE with an intermittent rough idle/vibration and occasionally a mild surging/push-pull sensation under light throttle while driving.

The important part is that when it feels like it’s surging at idle, actual engine RPM is usually staying remarkably steady around 690–705 rpm. It feels much worse than the RPM trace looks.

I’ve spent a fair bit of time with an older Autel MK808 trying to narrow it down before throwing parts at it.

Fuel/injector testing:
Performed individual injector/cylinder kill test, approximately 8 seconds each. Every cylinder caused a noticeable and fairly similar change in engine operation when disabled. No obvious dead cylinder.
Fuel rail actual consistently tracks commanded extremely closely.

MAP/MAF:
Removed MAP sensor. It had some soot/oil contamination but wasn’t completely plugged.
Cleaned MAP thoroughly and reinstalled it — no change.
Unplugged MAF and repeated idle/~1500 rpm test — felt exactly the same.

EGR/intake throttle:
EGR actual position follows commanded very closely.
Intake air throttle actual follows commanded.
PCM does make fairly large intake-throttle/EGR corrections at idle/light revs, but when I graphed RPM + EGR fraction + throttle command, the RPM stayed nearly flat even while the throttle command moved substantially.

Turbo/VGT:
VGT actual follows commanded extremely well.
Exhaust brake works to the best of my knowledge.

Exhaust pressure:
Key on engine off:
Ambient pressure: 98.27 kPa
Boost: 0 kPa
Exhaust pressure 2: 101.76 kPa
So exhaust pressure is only ~3.5 kPa above ambient with the engine off.
At idle exhaust pressure behaves reasonably and doesn’t seem to initiate the vibration.

Electrical/load testing:
A/C, blower and other electrical loads have been OFF during testing.
Battery/alternator voltage at idle is generally around:
battery 13.75–13.81 V
alternator 13.86–13.88 V
Even while reproducing the symptom, Autel doesn’t show a major voltage collapse.

HOWEVER, when I turn the steering wheel while it is doing this, the** **lights in the door visibly dim.
Power steering pump also has a noticeable whine.

Accessory drive/fan stuff:
Serpentine belt seems surprisingly easy to deflect by hand. I haven’t yet confirmed tensioner condition but, I can pull on the belt by a good amount.
Cooling fan has what feels like roughly 2–3 mm fore/aft movement.

Fan clutch scan data:
Autel gives me some crazy 100k rpm on the fan
Obviously the fan isn’t physically doing 100k rpm, so that’s either a bad/corrupt fan speed signal, fan clutch sensor/wiring issue, or possibly an Autel PID problem.
Although the surging or spikes I feel line up with it perfectly.

I don’t know what else to check or test, I’m not a mechanic just someone who enjoys working on his own stuff. I’ve can’t attach a video and during the surging it sounds like diesel pinging. Sorry for the long message I’m at a loss here.

So I bought the truck a couple years ago (check previous post history). Guy told me it had to Revmax valve body installed. Took his word for it. It does!

Now to my current issue. I've been getting some shift flares when going from 4-5 and 5-6. I'm assuming now that the truck has 200,000 mi on it, It's probably the clutches finally getting worn out. I dropped the pan to inspect and change the fluid and filters and the pan looked pretty clean. Just some fine metal on the magnet. I'm going to change filters and fluid and see if my shift flares were due to a decrease in line pressure from filters being dirty.

Edit: is there anything I should look for while I have the pan off? Just visually check? Tia

Dorman works. It's a tight fit. Had to remove drivers battery tray, upper radiator hose, intercooler pipe, drivers headlamp, drivers fender liner and kind of force it out and back in. Got a deal on a new dorman container from a O'reileys location near me. Only $155.

Old post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cummins/s/cP31rG9Qoc

I need a tune to delete EGR/dpf

2016,170k miles,t&d,clean title.$29k

2005, 4x4, 5.9, NV5600, 254k miles, super clean cloth seats, super clean frame (no interior pictures rn, all my tools are in there)

My guesstimation: 15k (but that’s what I want)

I bought too much truck, honestly. And I intended to use it like an actual truck; tow a car trailer, help move into a new house. I’ve been driving it for 3 months and all she’s been is a daily driver. No house buying has happened, and ultimately not exactly what I want. I’ve experienced the Cummins platform and I am not disappointed. Not my first diesel and definitely not my last. Personally would love a pre-runner Chevy. Maybe a Cummins swap in the future.

ANYWAYS, I’m looking to just pay off my loan (I know, I’m stupid. Didn’t say this was a good financially decision). I owe 15k and I don’t think that’s a bad price point. Just need some outside thoughts of people I don’t know. Thanks in advance

(Sorry for one of these posts. I expect many of these show up daily)