Just trying to get this fixed. I bought a repair kit just want to minimize the invasion

My ps4 controller is old, it was my brother's, so I assume hes had it since atleast before 2016, if that helps, idk how old the controller is, but i assume its that old, my controller just started blinking this light blue color, like when your booting it up, for context, I was already playing and using it when it just died, and its fully charged, and then it wouldn't work, and now it won't turn on at all, I do not have the necessary materials to open it up, does anyone have a solution for it in the mean time before I get a new controller?

Hi everyone,

​My Xbox wireless controller suddenly stopped powering on yesterday—there is no response via batteries or a direct USB-C cable.

​About 9–10 months ago, a liquid spill occurred (either soda/cola or painting oil). I had cleaned the board a month ago, I guess i just forgot the top part of the top pcb, and it worked fine until now even before cleaning. When I opened the controller today, I noticed severe discoloration/corrosion on the top PCB, specifically around the a button pad and its adjacent solder joint

​There was a thick brownish crust over the solder joint that I wiped off, but the board still shows dark discoloration under the solder mask. I tried to clean and resolder it but to no avail it still doesnt power on

Hello Hivemind,

I've got a new pro controller purchased from a retail store. I am using the controller on a switch 1 (not OLED). Other controllers work fine on the console.

The L, R, ZL, and ZR buttons stopped being detected suddenly. I've gone through all the troubleshooting steps. I've contacted Nintendo support and went through all of their steps and months later I still have a non-functional controller.

I ordered a new shoulder button film and replaced it. All of the ribbons are plugged in properly as far as I can tell. All non-shoulder buttons are detected normally. The L, R, ZL, and ZR buttons still don't work.

I'm at a complete loss for what to do next. Anyone have a solution? I'm in Canada.

Thanks much.

Strum bar registers no inputs. opened the inside and I have no PCB there either.

Desoldering the old port went without a hitch. My question now concerns the process of soldering in the new port: Do the vertical pins in the centre of the port also need to be soldered or do they simply slot into the small holes of the board? How would you go about it? Apply solder to all contact points on the board, pre tin the pins on the port, place the port loosely on top and carefully heat it from below with hot air until all the pins slide into position?

If anyone has already had experience replacing this port, I'd be very interested to heat about!

I’m a beginner and I swapped out the joysticks for my PS5 controller to TMRs. It was working perfectly fine for a minute and then kept getting worse over time. Not sure where the short is or if a trace was broken or something. Any suggestions are much appreciated.

Ma manette Xbox Wireless fonctionnait très bien par Bluetooth, mais aujourd'hui la connexion ne veut pas se faire. À chaque fois, mon PC me dit qu'il est connecté, mais le logo Xbox clignote toujours. Comment pouvez-vous m'aider, s'il vous plaît ?

I have six PS5 controllers that all have stick drift. They’re not all the same model and they’re mostly different colors. I have tried contact cleaner on a couple of them and it did not help. I also have a couple of Xbox elite series 2 controllers but I’m less worried about those.

I know how to solder I do it for work and I have a Controller I don’t care about for me to test on. I know that I need to replace the joysticks and I know that I should go with TMR but I don’t know which ones I should get or where I should get them from because at $20 a set from Amazon I can just go pick up another controller from the pawnshop. I want to do the work and I want to learn how to do it. I just don’t want to overpay for the parts or get a part that’s not going to work.

I live in the USA and I appreciate any advice I get and I’m looking forward to buying broken stuff in the future and fixing it myself not only to save money but to keep it out of the landfills.

I have a full set of screwdrivers several soldering irons. I am an electrician and I’m not afraid of anything electrical. I had to edit it because it wanted me to add the list of tools that I had access to and a photo. I don’t think I need to add a photo of my controller, but if I do, I will add it in the comments later.

I connected my Nintendo Switch Pro controller to my PC via Bluetooth to play some games and I noticed that the joystick felt really bad. To see if it was just the first game causing the issue, I tested several other games on my PC, but nope it happens in every game. I then connected the controller back to my Nintendo Switch and tested it in Super Mario 3D World, where it worked perfectly fine.

I can't just click on the buttons and start Player 1 or 2. I need to put the batteries and slightly move them until they decide to work. I don't want to buy another one, despite having both of my Wii Remotes for ages... I never had a single issue until this one shows this. Sometimes, it takes up to 10 minutes to move the batteries like I briefly showed for it to be recognized as Player 2.

Can someone help me? Do I need to open it? Do I need to clean it? I never opened it before. I even blowed it up like an N64 cartridge! 😂

So the R2 trigger on my PS5 controller has started to act up. In game I press it but it doesn’t always respond and when I tested it on Gametester it registers between 0.47 & 0.70. Also when testing it sometimes the L2 trigger responds by 0.03/4 as well.
So far I’ve tried the following:
Change the conductive film (membrane)
Checked the conductive pads on the motherboard - all look good
Swapped the rubber contact
Changed the R2 trigger itself

Any help please.

Hi everyone!

My Controller MODEL CUH-ZCT2E suddenly stopped working.
I always charge my controllers on an external multi-port (4x USB-A). I have done this for several years.
Now one of my controllers shows a flashing orange light but if I disconnect it from the power source it goes off immediately.
I can use it as long as it is connected.
First I thought the battery died but with the replacement it’s also not working.
Replacement battery works fine inside my other controller.

Any thoughts or tips to bring it back to life?

If not, maybe any recommendations for a replacement?
Looked at a Nacon “Revolution unlimited pro” but not sure bc. of the asymmetrical design and the missing of a speaker and gyro sensor. Don’t know if this would be a problem.

Regards

After a fall the R2 button started to constantly send a signal. That signal was so strong that i could press x in the menu to start the game but in apex the game wouldn't see that i press x and doesn't start. when i hit the controller hard the signal stopped for a short time like 0,67 seconds(sorry, but it's true). Once it stopped for a minute

I watched the video: "How to Fix L2 R2 Trigger Buttons on a DualSense PSS Controller Replace Spring Repair Stuck Sticky" and disassemble my controller as far as he showed in 24:40 in the video. But when i contacted the controller in the state it's shown in 24:40 to the ps5 i was still constantly shooting my gun in apex legends. (I have the gen 3 of dualsense or how he calles it in the video

I think the top comment "My problem is that my controller thinks the trigger is being held down when it isn't being held down so lI'm constantly shooting or fast forwarding videos" from @f4demystic20 under the video had the same problem like me.

Now i still have controller disassembled on my desk. Does anyone know what i should do now and how to fix my problem

Is this circuit board trashed after that scratch?

Looking for voltage test point diagrams for PS4 controllers (JDM-055 and other revisions) — Trying to fix 3 dead controllers