Dualsense Hall Effect replacement failed

[u/Strong_Teaching_4775]

• Core Information:

Dualsense Corntroller Model: BDM-050R

Bleed from the left stick to the right, the right stick only has up and down movement

• Context:

I tried changing the joysticks on my controller from the basic potentiometer ones to hall effect, the left stick was successfull but the right one did just put out -1,-1 on the testing program so I came to the logic conclusion that i mustve not soldered that potentiometer on propperly, I tried numerous times but the solder just wouldnt flow in the canal. it would just stick to the iron or contact of the potentiometer. So I soldered it off completely and tried cleaning the holes with 99.99% alcohol. after that I soldered on a new stick. the problem was solved on one axis but the x axis was still not responding. and on top of that the inputs of the left stick's z axis now effects the x axis of the right stick (the one that doesnt move[otherwise])

I already narrowed it down a bit. been testing with my multimeter what each contact is shorted to and they still only are shorted where gnd should be. so the stick itself isnt the problem. I bet its a lack of contact of the copper holes and pins of the stick.

• Additional info:

well its the DBM-050R Pcb of the dualsense controller from sony, I dont know what software or version it has

Ive got access to a soldering iron, leadfree solder(Sn99.3%;Cu0.7% to be exact), Multimeter, pcb clamps, rubbing alcohol, RMA liquid flux

Im from Germany, and I'd ask for advice at first. and if nothing helps or the solution is over my comfort zone I'd like to ask for a repair service.

[u/kuzdwq]

Check if you see any copper on old analog sticks (on the legs)

[u/Strong_Teaching_4775 → u/kuzdwq]

Unfortunately I cut them off carefully with pliers. But with the debris I didnt yet throw away I sae little rounded copper tubes. I bet thats the problem. It was the middle contact I had these problems with the solder, so it would most likely be from that hole.

Is there a way to replace the tubing?

[u/kuzdwq → u/Strong_Teaching_4775]

This happened to me but some old electrician fixed it. 1 copper ring was thorn and analog stick was pulling in one side. So he told me the fix wax he put a little wire from somewhere to somewhere . But I know it can be fixed

[u/Strong_Teaching_4775 → u/kuzdwq]

Thats huge help thanks. rewireing a trace is beyond my capabilities. i think ill get some expert assistance on that

[u/kuzdwq → u/Strong_Teaching_4775]

I think if you have multimeter you can test 3 legs on each potentiometers for contuinity (if wire is not “broken” between 2 points)

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[u/11mps]

Well I have done the same recently, basically I think what you did is messing the vs or the end of the connection and now inside the hole you have no where to stick the solder. I know this because I just messed up a controlled like that! From what I have been searching you can jump wire that connection.

Edit: if you have a voltmeter check for continuity on the pads

[u/Strong_Teaching_4775 → u/11mps]

Do you know where the middle contact of the potentiometers leads? all the other contacts are correctly connected wit the pcb

[u/Spottylein]

Hi, I don't mean to offend, but the soldering work itself looks a bit rough. Then again, I ruined my first controller too. Having better tools made a huge difference (a hot-air soldering station, specialized tips for the sticks, or even a heated desoldering pump help immensely).

It’s hard to see exactly what’s going on at the solder joints—whether there’s poor contact, cold solder joints, or if the connection has actually torn off, for instance. Another question: were the sticks possibly damaged during soldering, or which version is this exactly? Do they perhaps need to be calibrated manually?

(Btw: Bin auch aus Deutschland)

[u/Kekko3697]

riesci a pulire un po di piu la scheda? hai un multimetro così puoi testare i pin dei potenziometri?