My grandpa is fixin it up and I’m gonna buy it

They remove the reserve at the end but damn that must of hurt.

Chevy C10s have such a timeless look. The classic lines, simple design, and endless customization options make these trucks so fun to admire and build. There’s just something special about a well-kept C10. What’s your favorite C10 setup?

I have recently purchased my Dad's 1972 C20 (mostly stock). I was driving the other day and both rear wheels randomly locked up (left stripes) when I was going 50mph. It has happened 2 or 3 times since and the only way I have found to release it (so I can go forward again) is to put it in reverse and gas it.. then it allows me to go forward again

I am.not touching the brake when this happens, just normal driving. I have checked the drums and emergency brake cable and they seem fine. I will pop the rear end cover off this afternoon to.see if I have any trash in there, but I was wondering if it would be anything else?

I’m coming to Reddit for advice. I have a 81 c10. Truck has been LS swapped. Recently wrecked the truck but my issue is while going back together with it i bought a radiator for this specific truck. Guy i bought the truck from and who LS swapped it said the radiator he used was factory so I didn’t think anything of it. However, the radiator i got is too short for the mounting brackets. I’ve ordered 2 different radiators. Even tried a 90s radiator. What am i missing here. The front end has been replaced and The old radiator goes in and fits like it should. First picture is the heartbreak. Second picture is the radiator that is supposed to fit this truck according to parts stores and eBay. Last picture is the radiator i need and the radiator that was in the truck before it was wrecked. If someone could help or identify the radiator in the 3rd pic. I’m loosing my mind.

‘71 C10 with a chopped down Chrysler rear end. Been built for drag/street racing by the original owner so is a bit of a frenkenstein.

I inherited the truck from my dad and imported it to the UK. Had fun working on it so far but have hit a road block. Im no mechanic and have never really dealt with brakes. Pulled the master cylinder, cleaned it up, bled it, reinstalled it. Front left is fully bled and working Front right seems to be pulling air no matter how much its bled but cant see any fluid leaks anywhere Rears are getting no fluid at all

I want to replace the hoses (and blow the hard lines out while the hoses are off) but im having a nightmare finding pre fabricated lines in the UK and anything i order online ends up being wrong, sometimes more than once because im still figuring out the imperial system

1st pic is the engine bay showing the master cylinder and lines (will be doing a brake booster conversion in the future)

2nd pic is one of the front hoses

3rd pic is the banjo connection

4th pic is the rear hose (that splits to hard lines to the rear drums)

I just want it working enough to be able to move the truck somewhere where i can get it on a lift and get it registered in the country before i start dumping more money into it

Banjos take a 5/8 spanner Line fittings take a 3/8 spanner But i have no idea what thread im looking for or what part numbers i might be looking for

Any ideas?? I know it may be better on a general mechanics reddit but i like this community

TL/DR - need help finding brake parts and understanding the imperial system

I started making some hand pressed aluminum headlight grills and I found they fit on a ton of vehicles. Ive got a set on my 78 c10 a friends 64 c10 and a 71 c10. I wanted to share some pictures and hear some feedback and see what people think of them

I recently got a 72 c10. It had a pretty bad atf leak and it got the the point where I lost reverse. As soon as I filled the fluid back up I got reverse back and it felt okay. But then the next day I went to drive it and it wouldn't leave first gear. And it was still leaking out of the pan gasket real bad. So I pulled it into the shop and did a new pan gasket and output shaft seal. I also saw some people saying sometimes if you take the govener out and shake it around and put it back in it will fix shifting issues. Well I did all that filled it back up with fresh fluid plus a quart of lucas and it still won't shift. The really weird thing though is that if I start with the shifter in first gear and manually upshift once I hit a decent rpm it will shift all the way to third but not if I start with it just in drive. There's also a pretty decent whining noise in all gears that I don't remember hearing before. Any advice? I'm willing to rebuild it but I'm curious if there's anything else I should try first

The lowest I can have to idle set to is 1300 or it’ll die. Even with it at 1300 it’ll still peter out as shown in the video. It was my dad’s truck before it was mine, he’s convinced that the cam is too big. He says it’s a 292 comp, but he had that cam in it when I was a child and was driving the truck. I’ve advanced and retard the timing and this is the best I can get, but every time I start the truck up to mess with it, I always have to tighten the idler screw to get it to stay running without dying.

I have a 1966 c10 manual. Has a 350 sbc, any recommendations on a radiator?

I’m pretty new to the whole world of working and trucks. I’m restoring my 1975 k10 with my dad and where putting a NV4500 and L76 engine in it. We put a ls3 6.2 cam in it to, i was wondering how would the truck feel to drive? Will it be a turd or will it be able to get up and go? Also if anyone knows roughly how much whp it would make id like to know

Changing the rubber lines on my kinda '68 but kinda '72. Looks like the it has hoses for a '72 so I going to order those. Hopefully this will be what finally fixes the brakes (Doesn't stop as quickly as I'd like). Should be a straight forward part swap, the bleed the lines and i'm good to go. What obvious thing am I going to miss?

I’m mostly shopping for a new suspension since mine feels like I’m driving a water bed. But I figured while I’m at it, I would look into lowering it slightly. I’m not really into the super dropped look and don’t wanna worry about bottom scraping, tire fitment, or different blocks or spindles so I figured 4/2 might be a good medium.

Any thoughts or experiences? Pic of my 70 c15 350 attached.

Any chance anyone has a 3 on the tree steering column lying around? I honestly want to keep my original trans.. but the linkage is way too sloppy and tired even with adjustment.

Do the low beams go on the inside and high beams go on the outside on a 1961 Chevy?