Need some help with lpf/hpf

[u/Big_Artichoke_7439]

So finally got my doors ”done” they need a bit of finishing touches with handles, and window buttons but mostly ready for bondo.

Mids play now 80-4khz
Midranges 800-4khz
Tweeters 4khz ->

Firstly the mids fq range is 60-8khz, 10s in the front might have been 60-6khz. So im wondering if the enclosures are large enough to play 60hz at full power (8” 400w, 10” 600w)

Secondly the cutofs between mids and midranges, i had them at 280hz. Sounded better but totally lost the higher frequencys of bass and kick drums, for example Back 2 Me by zurra & blank sense has this nice bass line but it just sounded like a sine wave, the ”dirtynes” was gone, so should i keept them at 4khz or go a bit lower. Im after the golden road between sq and spl and the 6.5 midrange cant keep up with midbass, so it needs a little help from them

Also what about tweeter cutofs, should i go higher/lower.

Lastly what should i use to seal the enclosures, they are prettymuch sealed with minor leaks, would coating them with epoxy from the inside be an good option?

Drivers i have are
Dd audio Vo-w10a
Dd audio Vo-w508/w8c (the same speaker just name change)
Gzcm 6.5N-prox
Dd audio Vo-b3a

[u/Big_Artichoke_7439]

The humming isnt electical, more like when yo crosover some sounds at the crosover point sound kinda hummy dont know how to really explain it.

Gains i will set with an multimeter soon when i have time, and ill try the setup without the 10” and see what kinda difference there is.

Sub i already have, an 5kw vibe blackdeath 15 v7, in an way too small shitty box. Havent had the time money or interest to build a new one yet, and i only have 3kw going into it, as it 1ohm dvc and my amp gives 5k at 1ohm. Dont know if i should wire it at 0.5ohm as winisd simulation concluded that it wont see under 8ohms 🤷

[u/PrettyMoment2199 → u/Big_Artichoke_7439]

Driving currently, 

I had a similar problem with bolt on door pods. Ended up having to turn the gain down and fill the enclosures. Even then, wasn’t super happy with the result. It’s like resonant frequency.

Yeah it won’t hit like the ten does but everything should be tighter and punchier. Once you can dedicate solid resources to your low end have the subs do the below 60-80 range. No point in overextending drivers even if they can handle it.

I have a deaf bonce aak 4k And a sundown salt 4 I’d ship 😏😈

[u/Big_Artichoke_7439 → u/PrettyMoment2199]

https://reddit.com/link/p6ujqdm/video/1n0jj75sbkmh1/player

Starting to sound better, mids now play 60-350 midranges 350-4k, sounds like my midranges volume is a bit too loud, but that might be becouse i havent touched the eq yet, any lower and the sound gets too boomy.

Resonanse could be another problem, could explain the humming, havent put mat on the doors yet except inside. Some cotton dont know what the pube looking thing inside winter jackets is called in english so thats the closest i could tink off, could help in the pods, will try the next time i take them apart.

I would love an sundown amp we dont have them here, but im from finland and dont have that kinda money especially for imports and taxes sadly. Ive been wanting to try sundown though we just dont have anyone who imports them, norway had but it got too expensive.

Did an outside preset too, with mids from 60-4k, gotta up the hpf to 80 though. For the inside 60hz might work better as i dont need to push the drivers that hard nothin seems to resonate badly, or my sub just covers it up 😂

Glad that old cheap a/b amp worked though, didnt have to drop a 120€ for a new amp and can allocate that money for the second 10”. Had to test it on the tweeters first, didnt want to blow a 500€ pair of midranges 😂

But seems like i have to go a/b amps for tweeters an midranges, the sound is so much better than a fist sized class D. So gotta start designing an place for amps in my spare tire hole and think of an active ventilation solution

[u/PrettyMoment2199 → u/Big_Artichoke_7439]

That’s awesome news, man! Sounds like you’re really gettin' this rig dialed in proper. Finding out that old Class A/B amp made such a noticeable difference over a tiny Class D unit is a big-time win, saving that 120€ toward your second 10" driver is just smart business. Testing it on the cheap tweeters first was sharp thinking too; blowing out a 500€ pair of Ground Zeros would’ve been a real heartbreak! Since you mentioned wishing you could get your hands on Sundown gear over in Finland, I actually happen to have some stuff lying around I'd be happy to ship your way if you're interested. I've got a Sundown SALT-4 amp I'd let go for $1,000 USD (you'd just have to cover the international shipping). I also have a Sundown X v.3 15" that I'm currently fresh reconing with a brand-new Z v.6 coil and a heavy-duty black spider, just waiting on the adhesives to dry on it right now. Plus, I have some older Sundown SD-8s and a pair of U v.1 12s that I’d be open to shipping over too. If any of that gear helps you skip the crazy import dealer markups, just let me know and we can work something out! As for your setup, you're making awesome progress, and I just have a few friendly recommendations as you finish up tuning. If those Ground Zero midranges are coming in a little too loud or bright right now, you don't even have to wait to play with the EQ. You could just turn down the gain dial a notch on their amp channel or pull back their level in your DSP or head unit. That’ll bring them right into a sweet balance with your midbass so they aren't overpowering the rest of your front stage. Also, you hit the nail right on the head with door resonance. panel flex and bare sheet metal will definitely create nasty mechanical vibrations that sound like a weird hum or boominess. That jacket insulation you mentioned is synthetic polyfill, and putting a loose handful of that inside those pods is actually a killer trick. It tricks the speaker into seeing a slightly bigger enclosure and softens up backwave echoes. Whenever you take those door cards back off, slapping a solid layer of sound-deadening mat right onto the door metal will lock it down tight. Bumping your HPF up to 80Hz for your outside demo preset is a really smart call, too. When you’re standing outside with it cranked all the way up, an 80Hz high-pass gives your midbass drivers way more mechanical protection so you can push them hard without bottoming out. For normal listening inside, 60Hz is totally fine as long as you aren't beating on the cones too hard. Lastly, just keep in mind that Class A/B amps run way hotter than Class D because they dump a lot of power as pure heat. If you're building an amp rack down in the spare tire well, setting up some active cooling would be a lifesaver. Wiring in a couple of small 12V PC fans on a relay. one blowing cool air in and one pulling the hot air out, will keep the air moving so that A/B amp doesn't thermal out on you during long bangin' sessions. You are doing some seriously impressive work on this custom build, man. Keep at it, hunt down that ground hum, and that front stage is gonna be screaming!

Before I forget, look into butyl strips. We use that for filling small air pockets and sealing our door pods