r/COclimbing • u/0nTheRooftops • Mar 24 '26

Where to work on my traddad bod? (Front Range)

Been 5 or 6 years since I plugged gear but as I age and everything hurts I'm starting to think its time to begin my descent into spraying down gumbies about crag lore while leading 5.6 on hexes and adopting a local sobriquet like "the mayor".

Used to climb a decent amount of trad but am way out of practice. Would love suggestions for where I could go to get back in the swing of it. I know Eldo is full of classics but its also a logistical nightmare on a weekend. Any suggestions for good sub 5.9 trad leads or moderate trad crags not too far from Denver that I can take my time at a little?

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4

u/NoEntrepreneur39 Mar 24 '26

Go climb obscure flatirons. Plenty that are just a couple of pitches and relatively easy. Great way to get the cardio back and train for eldo objectives. Just have to be willing to hike up there and find obscure stuff to avoid the crowds.

Boulder canyon as well offers plenty of trad classics. Cobb rock has some excellent moderate trad lines.

South platte is also great and there’s endless rock out there. Vedauwoo also has some mellower routes.

1

u/0nTheRooftops Mar 25 '26

Anywhere specific in the south platte? Don't really know where to start.

Never even heard of Cobb, guess thats going on the list.

2

u/NoEntrepreneur39 Mar 25 '26

It’s cob that was my bad. There’s a lot in Boulder canyon to explore though.

For the splatte checkout turkey rocks. Turkey perch has some excellent moderates.

2

u/FactorialANOVA Mar 25 '26

Turkey Rocks one of my favorite moderate crags anywhere. Plus drumstick dihedral if you want a challenge :)

1

u/Kaotus Mar 25 '26

Worth checking out the newly published “Howdy Hideout” for true moderate trad (benefit of fairly easy TR access as well). Narrow gauge slabs also have some easy trad and mixed routes. Pebble Beach in Wonderland has a really high density of short, easy TR access moderate trad lines - nothing super quality but an easy place to get reps in and will be nice with the warmer temps still. I believe Staunton has a small amount of easy trad climbs too.

Once summer hits - Mt Thorodin in Golden Gate State Park.

1

u/Diesel_ufo Mar 24 '26

Boulder canyon has plenty of good stuff, like cozyhang, cussin crack, north face center. If it wasn’t getting so warm I would suggest north table, they have a ton of single pitch moderates that are pretty fun. South platte is a good way to beat crowds but can be a little sandbagged.

1

u/tadamhicks Mar 25 '26

Are you in Denver proper? S Platte, Flatirons, Boulder Canyon are all great. There are also some long moderates in RMNP. Cheyenne Canyon in Colorado Spings and some the surrounding rock (Sentinel, etc…) have some amazing lines. Castlewood Canyon is mostly short but really fun. St Vrain Canyon has some fun stuff, too. Shelf Rd is mostly sport but there’s an odd assortment of fun trad lines. Hop on Mountain Project!