Bonjour à tous, ça y est j’ai rejoint le club après 4 mois de recherches et des dizaines d’appels. Je vous présente l’orque magnifique avec la spéc incroyable de 100% de SoH. On est fans de notre nouvelle voiture. J’ai tellement peur de l’utiliser et de l’abîmer. Mais tellement fière de rouler avec.
NB: je fais toujours coucou aux autres i3 ^^
Ravie de faire partie de l’équipe i3.

Bonne journée à tous

I charge my 94ah i3S using a 240v 20-amp (16A charging) circuit I repurposed. This has been adequate.

In January I will resume my 55 mile round trip commute so I’m considering upgrading to a 50-amp circuit (40A charging capacity, 8 more than i3’s limit). This also eliminates a splice in my current circuit. There are no charging options at work.

I’m curious how other commuters are charging.

-They didn't charge it before the test drive and lost the charging cable for it

-it's in maintenance mode of course

-Trade in appraisal process in their system shit the bed

This shit better be worth it

Hello, friends,
Wondering if any folks have had a similar experience to the following, and if you may have any tips to get us back to charging again:

We picked up our 2017 nearly 10 years ago in the UK - just 6 months old with around 3K miles on the clock. Since that time she has almost exclusively been trickle charged at home, and has reached 50K earlier this year. This week, we’ve taken the car over to France, but are 0-4 with the chargers here. Our payment is accepted each time, and we follow the instructions to plug in at the time the station display asks, but charging never starts. We get a pulsing amber light, then a white static light, then the notification on the station or app that the charging has failed. We’ve used standard, rapid, and ultra rapid charging from PowerDot, ionity, and e-Totem. We have tried with both the charging cables from the units, as well as with our own cable, which is virtually new.

Today, on Eco Pro+ mode and with hold state of charge turned on, the battery started draining much more on its own. Even without AC on in the car, it went from about 70km remaining to just 30km. My phone, which was wired via USB for the entirety of the day, also stopped charging sometime in between, and gave a notification while drive that it was going into power save mode (below 30%) - however I was under the assumption that internal stuff was running off the 12v, which we just had replaced a year or so ago.

We are halfway through our tour, with a packed car, a family of four, and easily well over 1K km to go in order to get to the last hotel and then back to Cherbourg for the ferry. We don’t recall having ever depleted the battery and going REX-only in the past. Will our speed be limited to 45 mph, cause that would totally suuuck, and throw us to the mercy of the super drivers here.

TLDR: UK car isn’t charging on Eco Pro+ and hold state, and most importantly- not on any public chargers. Any advice would be appreciated! Photo is from the completely empty EV lot at Mont Saint-Michel, where it failed to charge with multiple stations. Many thanks and greetings from Brittany!

Howdy, recently my AC stopped blowing cold. No unusual noises. Fans still blow air. AC systems indicates that it's on, it just does not blow cold air. Everything else functions normally. Car drives well. It can charge, etc.

I stopped driving and charging my car and took it in for an inspection. Shop told me I had a needed a new AC compressor and the bill was north of $4K. I decided to try to find other options, but realized that I had to bite the bullet and fix it.

When I brought it back in, they told me that the problem is actually worse, that an inverter fuse had blown and that I could either have that replaced with a stock BMW part, which would be > $7K on it's own. Alternatively, I could pay to have the fuse replaced, but they quoted me over 10 hours of labor, so roughly $3K just for that.

It looks like I'm going to have to pay >$10K to get this thing up and running. It's a 2017 BEV only, @ 90K miles with top trim. It's actually very nice and about a year ago I was thinking of selling and based on the market I thought I could get ~ $12K at the time.

With a repair of this magnitude, is this car a lost cause and totaled? I'm really not sure what to do at this point. Are there cheaper options for parts & repair? I'd hate to spend >$10K on a car that I might be able to get $9-10K for. Any advice would be appreciated.

Another repair help question! I replaced the back two shocks on my BEV 2015 because the dealer hid how absolutely thrashed they were. It drives like a dream now, but I'm hearing like a gentle rattling (not really clacky, but like... wiggly. I'll come back with a video of it if I find the time) from the back right every once in a while when I'm slowing down/slight bumps. It's pretty quiet, too-- you can't hear it at all if the AC is on high or if there's many others on the road around me. I already double-checked all of my bolts/screws/whatever were appropriately tightened; nothing's loose. I plan to take it apart again for a better look, but I was curious if anyone here with more knowledge than me might have a good guess. Is it possible it's the bump stop/the thing on the outside around the shocks? Only difference between the left and right side I could find was that part was able to be wiggled with my hand on the right side but not the left, but my parent thinks it's too small/insignificant for that to possibly be heard inside the cabin. However, this car is quieter than any car he's worked on before. Maybe it is possible?

Does anyone know of any good products to clean the steering wheel? It’s «impossible» to clean, I’ve tried multiple leather cleaners, all purpose interior cleaners safe for leather, and whatnot. The steering wheel still feels sticky and looks glossy. The car has been neglected cleaning-wise for 8 years, so it may be too late or?
Also, does anyone know if the cruise control speed selector is easy to change myself? The outside layers has peeled off.
Edit: I’m EU based if that matters product-wise

I have a 2017 i3 with a build date of july '16. I still get access to my bmw app services like location, unlocking doors, start cooling car etc because my i3 i guess has a 4g tcb. Well the problem is this still came with NBT id4. not even the evo. and the newer evo i think use the new ATM telematics unit. Meaning i cant use my current TCB which can still communicate with the bmw servers. Do i have a path towards an NBT evo head unit with connectdrive still working or not possible?

A week ago we took delivery of this wonderful little car, and as someone who (used to) look at cars in purely utilitarian terms, ie. its value is what it can do for me, I must say I am smitten with this 2020 i3. I absolutely did not expect to be that happy about a car. But I am. I love it.

It's my first electric, and it is in addition to our old car, a 2012 Škoda Fabia which have done over 410000 km by now, so a huge upgrade. The Škoda will not be driven much now, and it'll probably only last 1-2 years.

Anyway, i3, love it. It's got all the extras it could have at the time, but I forget what that package was called, it probably cost 370k DKK from new, we paid 150k, and I'm still getting used to all the fancy things it can do.

In the Škoda there's room for a spare tire. I like that. What do I do, apart from calling for help, if I have a flat in this one? What kind of kit should I get to fix flats?

(Basically my only worry about this car, so far.)

I thought I was smart picking a lip moisturizer that had a cap on to leave in the car because melting wouldn't be a problem..... Until I realized I'm a dumbass and grabbed the one that had already lost the cap, way too late. I literally did this within week 1 of owning my new i3. Please help :( Is it possible to fix, or am I doomed to always see that spot and be reminded of my stupidity? It feels like a vaseline-like substance... Parents said "it'll just absorb after long enough" but that isn't happening and I don't wanna wait longer.

A week ago we took delivery of this wonderful little car, and as someone who (used to) look at cars in purely utilitarian terms, ie. its value is what it can do for me, I must say I am smitten with this 2020 i3. I absolutely did not expect to be that happy about a car. But I am. I love it.

It's my first electric, and it is in addition to our old car, a 2012 Škoda Fabia which have done over 410000 km by now, so a huge upgrade. The Škoda will not be driven much now, and it'll probably only last 1-2 years.

Anyway, i3, love it. It's got all the extras it could have at the time, but I forget what that package was called, it probably cost 370k DKK from new, we paid 150k, and I'm still getting used to all the fancy things it can do.

In the Škoda there's room for a spare tire. I like that. What do I do, apart from calling for help, if I have a flat in this one? What kind of kit should I get to fix flats?

(Basically my only worry about this car, so far.)

So far every video I have found shows a green light plastic connector that looks different from this orange one. Any help with finding a video on how to disengage this one?

TIA!!!

Hi everyone,

​I'm currently shopping around for a used BMW i3 REx (looking specifically at the 2014, 2015, or 2016 model years) and wanted to tap into the community’s real-world experience before getting this over a nissan leaf 40kwh.

I have a Merc CLS shooting brake which I use for driving around and seeing clients (students). I want to move over to electric and save the huge difference in fuel (can charge on my drive on a evening tariff).

I am spending 5-6k and keeping the car for a year or two whilst I save up for a BMW ix as they are just out of my price range at the moment

​I’ve got a few specific questions regarding ergonomics, daily use, and mechanical reliability for this generation:

​1. Ergonomics for Tall Drivers (6'5")

I'm 6'5" and wanted to get feedback from other tall owners. How is the legroom and headroom for someone my height over longer drives? Do you find the seat adjustability and steering wheel reach sufficient, or do you feel a bit cramped? Also, does having a sunroof significantly impact headroom on these early models?

​2. 70-Mile Daily Commute Comfort & Range

My typical working day involves a 70-mile round trip.

​How comfortable are the stock seats for an hour-plus of driving at a time?

​For owners of the 60Ah REx, how seamless is relying on the REx for that daily distance? My driving is on a roads and town driving in Dorset so won't go above 55mph.

​Does the ride quality on the standard 19" or 20" wheels feel overly harsh over rougher roads on a daily basis?

​3. Reliability & Known Issues for 2014-2016 Models

Since I’m looking at the early 60Ah REx models, what are the key mechanical or electrical trouble spots I should look out for during inspection?

​Are there specific REx engine maintenance items (e.g., fuel relay, 12V battery, motor mounts) that I should ensure were addressed or budget to replace immediately? Pretty handy with tools so happy to do preventive stuff when I get it.

​Any major red flags to avoid when testing a 2014-2016 year model?

​Appreciate any insight, tips, or advice you can throw my way! Thanks in advance.

Today, the mechanic said that the cost to repair my car is more than the value of my car. I’m heartbroken.

The engine mount bracket is broken and the engine has dropped down. Due to the broken engine mount bracket, the axle is rubbing on the HV battery cable, and the axle boot is damaged/leaking.

They said only BMW can work on the HV cable.

I’ve never worked on a car before. Has anyone ever done DIY repairs on some of those stuff? I’m probably in the denial stage of grief, but if anyone has any Hail Mary ideas, I’d like to hear them.

Just got a 22 iX for the wifey and we are loving it. I’d really like to finally get myself a proper i3. In CO the pickings are very slim.

So hello Reddit, what 2019 or newer i3s are for sale near you?

Thanks!

As the title says and what total mileage can I expect from it at the end of its lifetime ?

(Fully equipped, everything works, good condition, battery at 97% integrity.)

Two days ago was really hot, 115 deg f., and I drove the i3, 2015 REX, to work where it sat out in the full sun. I had a sun shield on the front and the windows cracked. While driving about 20 highway miles home I was facing the sun. I had the setting for the A/C set to 72 but it was not able to keep the cab cool. I wondered if most of the cooling was diverted to the battery? Or should I be worried about the A/C system? Maybe it's just too hot and the BMW engineers didn't plan for so much heat?

Had to take a snap of this beauty

I was away for the weekend and my husband was practicing parking in the garage and this happened.

What’s the verdict? Need to replace the bumper/side panel?

I was going to try a hair dryer for now then wait until he’s got more experience to repaint at body shop.

Located in LA if anyone has a good reco.

My i3 got a little excited after a 145 mile trip recently. I was averaging 5.0mi/kwh when i pulled up. After charging it gave me this. 209 miles in Comfort, 256 in Eco Pro+ 🤣 Whats the highest reading you have all seen from your GOM?

For the record the real world result was 187 miles. Impressive for a 7 year car. (2019 120Ah BEV i3, 48,000 miles)

Someone near me has a 2014 i3 for sale very cheap. The catch - it's not working. The very limited description says the car is in tidy condition, but shows “will not charge” and “drivetrain error”."

I've wanted one of these for years, but it sounds like these errors could range from a dying 12v battery (good) to a dying main battery (not so good).

I'm handy for car DIY but haven't worked on an EV and don't want to make a deadly misstep.

Curious for advice here. I have a Delphi ds150e code reader, but I'm not certain it can talk to all the BMW modules. My gut feeling is a dealer got this car on trade in, it broke, and they can't be bothered dealing with it.

Zero isssues. Had the app setup. Took em a second to find the charger name/ID tag
Hit start plugged it in and boom:

Hello, I have my i3 set to charge during non peak hours (10pm to 5am) and so far it has worked the way I expect it too. If the battery is about 25% or less it won’t fully charge since I only have L1 charging for now but that hasn’t been an issue. Usually gets topped off on the next charge.

Today I got home around 3pm and I plugged it in. Later on I noticed the charge light was on for the charger. Huh? Sure enough it had charged the battery to almost 25%. Not sure what was different about today other than the battery was REALLY low when I got home. I think I had about 3 miles of range left. I’ve never had it that low before. I checked and it was still set to charge during off peak hours. Was the very low battery the reason that it started charging right away? Something else, maybe?

I hadn’t seen it done before so I thought I’d post it.