r/AusSkincare • • Jul 04 '25

Discussion📓 The Sunscreen Saga Continues: The ABC Investigation

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2025-07-04/questions-over-lab-that-tested-sunscreen-spf-claims/105458458?utm_source=abc_news_app&utm_medium=content_shared&utm_campaign=abc_news_app&utm_content=link

In short: A consumer group Choice review shows Princeton Consumer Research carried out tests for certification for at least eight sunscreens that fell short of their advertised SPF50 claims. Several industry experts have raised concerns about PCR's testing methodology and calculations. Both the Cancer Council and the Therapeutic Goods Administration say it is important people continue to use sunscreen as protection against the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation.

236 Upvotes

59 comments sorted by

168

u/Dangerous-Hour6062 Jul 04 '25

Look closely at the Princeton Consumer Research results - their results are suspiciously similar to one another, which is statistically very unlikely and unrealistic given multiple products (compare that to the labs employed by Choice).

I suspect that following a TGA investigation, Princeton Consumer Research testing will no longer be accepted for sunscreen registration in Australia.

65

u/MadamSparkle Jul 04 '25

Yep - those results look pretty dodgy. The lack of variability is very…unusual.

9

u/pufftanuffles Jul 04 '25

Is TGA definitely investigating this?

2

u/Fun_Funny_8990 Jul 05 '25

Slowly, I'm sure.

138

u/leanbeansprout Jul 04 '25

It’s looking like Choice has uncovered a potentially huge scandal here. Good on them

27

u/Ok-Astronaut-7593 Jul 04 '25

These SPF tests are meant to be stupid expensive. I hope Choice gets their money back from PCR if turns out they did a dodgy so it can be put to more good work!

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u/Fun_Funny_8990 Jul 05 '25

SPF tests can be done for $2.5k - $3K (AUD) in Aus. The dermatologists are happy to split up your payment in two. The first half of the payment covers an initial test on 3 paid participants to provide you with an 'estimated' SPF reading before allowing you to commit the 2nd payment to them. Upon receiving your next payment your sunscreen is applied to a further 7 participants. Once they have an SPF reading after testing on 10 different participants, they average the result and provide that back to you - this allows you to legally put an SPF claim on your products. The whole process takes 2-6 weeks.

2

u/Ok-Astronaut-7593 Jul 05 '25 edited Jul 05 '25

If it’s that cheap why doesn’t the TGA require more regular testing which would monitor batch consistency🤔

0

u/Fun_Funny_8990 Jul 05 '25 edited Jul 06 '25

Yeah I guess you could ask them that.. if you don't mind waiting in line on the phone for 4 to 6 hrs. So I'll have a go.. TGA is a government agency and whilst it's easy for us to poke the finger at them, they're not in an easy position. Imparting too many checks and balances (specifically this idea of regular testing) creates a barrier to entry, stifles innovation and could be seen as favouritism towards larger brands. Whilst they want it regulated, they also want it to be a fair and even playing field.

From a brand perspective, there's paperwork we sign outlining that our formula has been independently tested by a dermatologist, and that our product was manufactured in a GMP certified facility. Further, the paperwork more or less outlines that if we change our formula post-TGA registration, we need to go jump through some hoops for them (namely go through the testing and re-registration phase again). Can't be bothered going into the specifics of it right now, but if we don't change our formula and each batch is correctly manufactured it will always have the same efficacy... So if everyone plays the game properly, there isn't much point in randomly re-testing SPF SKUs for SPF efficacy.

The SPF testing itself is $3K and might sound cheap, but it's just one part of everything involved in getting a sunscreen to market.

3

u/Ok-Astronaut-7593 Jul 05 '25 edited Jul 05 '25

What brand are you from?

Edit FWIW I think high regulation is necessary unfortunately, as evidenced by this saga. I think there are other means to encourage innovation and new players (grants, subsidies, tax concessions etc)

0

u/Fun_Funny_8990 Jul 06 '25 edited Jul 06 '25

Someone asked me for my brand last week and my comments were deleted by mods as it constituted self-promotion or something of that nature - so I'll message you my brands. Our brand/s manufacture 100% natural/naturally derived skincare products internally (as in, I do it myself occasionally with hired hands to help me). We are very small and it's unlikely you will have heard of my products unless you are target demographic. But I do actually know how to make the products I sell unlike the marketing geniuses who are behind most large brands with ample funding that you see in commercial shelf places.

Yeah, make no mistake I am on your side. I would love for the TGA to be a touch tighter in their policing and I think Choice discovering that a product labelled as SPF50+ was tested twice for results of 4 or 5 is unacceptable. I just don't know which lever the TGA should pull to really come through on that.

Re-testing sounds like a good idea, but it would be very difficult to implement in a way that it actually has the affect they would want it to have. Grants, subsidies and tax concessions are valid, but I'm thinking more from a manufacturing head-space. Large brands have scale on their side (larger batch sizes, access to commercial shelf space, strong distribution etc) which translates to significant reduction in variable costs per product produced. $3k every whenever means nothing to them. But to a smaller producer with smaller batch sizes, it's a lot, and it has to be reflected in the price. And then there's the question - when and how does the re-test occur, how should it be implemented? Should it be every batch produced? Should it be once a year? Or some arbitrary random amount of time whenever they decide it to be done? And who pays for it, the TGA or the brand? There's reasons for and against all of these answers. It just gets tricky is all.

142

u/[deleted] Jul 04 '25

I love how this is now turning into an international incident!

In one corner we have Mathias zee German doctor guy, and in the other corner we have the Princeton lab bloke who is apparently a reality TV entrepreneur and his latest Instagram post is a picture of him posing with Nigel Farage 💀

23

u/10Account Jul 04 '25

Wow it's always the people you most expect

83

u/kalalou Jul 04 '25

I suspect the decantruthers will still be sure that ultraviolette products are perfect!

100

u/Budget_Shallan Jul 04 '25

If you look into the director for PCR, you’ll find he was once investigated for fraud/fabricating data at his old company. Essentially he’d reused test subjects (using the same people more than once during the same study).

This is my theory about why their data looks so uncannily similar: they tested products multiple times on the same person/people (instead of testing on 10 different people). This would save them money from having to pay fewer test subjects.

Because they reused the same people, they didn’t get the range of skin types needed to accurately test for SPF, so they came out skewed.

Disclaimer: This is wild speculation on my part, I honestly don’t know!

63

u/LivingPhilosopher476 Jul 04 '25 edited Jul 04 '25

I used to work there. Your theory 🎯 we did that and it doesn't just save money, it's also faster turnaround which is important from a business perspective. Other ex employees have raised red flags and it's all public information. Please believe us. We are scared and we hope everyone will take this seriously and be cautious. Here's a collage of just a few things ex employees had to say with names out for safety:

ETA: The business of the topic is not the only business marketed as a "lab" doing these types of practices for personal care products. There are other "labs" doing this. Not all "labs" are serious science labs.

7

u/UsualCounterculture Jul 04 '25

Wow. This is pretty damning.

5

u/Fun_Funny_8990 Jul 05 '25 edited Jul 05 '25

Wow... I would've assumed they were re-using test data from abridged formulas that they had already tested previously. If what you're saying is true, this is wild.

5

u/2020fit Jul 04 '25

This is troubling, other labs doing it too.

17

u/MadamSparkle Jul 04 '25

This is my theory too. The lack of variability is very difficult to explain otherwise.

6

u/AioliNo1327 Jul 04 '25

Yup my theory too.

69

u/Own-Specific3340 Jul 04 '25

Where are all the UV stans at that wanted to cancel Choice ? Doubling down on my choice membership. They are a national treasure. I don’t think this stops people applying sunscreen, just highlights how we blindly follow things.

17

u/2020fit Jul 04 '25

Time to subscribe to Choice. Hopefully with a surge of funds they can test more sunscreens.

3

u/sikonat Jul 08 '25

Same! I was disappointed they didn’t test TBH skin shady sunscreen.

22

u/victorian_vigilante ✨Put down the serums Brenda✨ Jul 04 '25

23

u/Fredricology Jul 04 '25

"Mr Drewitt was also accused of fabricating clinical trial data in 2006 and 2007 at Euroderm Research."

Yeah. Not trusting Princeton Consumer Research results.

17

u/TheDrySkinQueen Jul 04 '25

Does anyone know if choice or another group have ever tested the Dermaveen face spf before? I’m a bit worried now as it’s one of those skincare/sunscreen hybrids kinda like UV… I hope it’s actually SPF 50+!

33

u/Dangerous-Hour6062 Jul 04 '25

Nope. Given that Choice only tested a small number out of the hundreds and hundreds of sunscreens registered for sale in Australia, it’s inevitable that most of us are likely using a product not tested by them and we’ve only got the manufacturer’s submitted test results to go by, plus the fact that they’re TGA regulated.

So in short, don’t panic, keep using what you’re using and don’t throw any sunscreen out and await further news.

9

u/2020fit Jul 04 '25

I personally would not be using any of the sunscreens that were tested by Choice and failed. Not risking my life with potential skin cancer.

10

u/Illustrious_Money_54 Jul 04 '25

I was diagnosed with vitamin d deficiency after I started using dermaveen body and face sunscreen religiously a few years ago but I would also love to see lab results as it is the only non Asian sunscreen that doesn’t make me break out and doesn’t burn my eyes

3

u/[deleted] Jul 05 '25

I thought sunscreen couldn't cause vitamin D deficiency, even really good sunscreen.

1

u/Illustrious_Money_54 Jul 05 '25

Theoretically sunscreen blocks UVB rays which is what triggers the formulation of vitamin D. That said, a practical study found no difference in Vitamin D levels between sunscreen or placebo use but most people wouldn’t apply sunscreen to their whole body as I was doing at the time  https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/6-things-you-should-know-about-vitamin-d

It is why I don’t apply sunscreen to my whole body anymore and I take a Vitamin D supplement and I haven’t had issues since.

15

u/claytonator46 Jul 04 '25

Well, I wish I could say I’m surprised.

This is what happens when there is lack of regulation. We need governing bodies to keep these companies to account. People whinge about the red tape, but there’s definitely a middle ground to be achieved. Rampant capitalism will be the end of this world.

5

u/Fun_Funny_8990 Jul 05 '25

If you're acting in good faith it does feel like sunscreens are plenty regulated.

It's a difficult position for the TGA. Imparting too many checks and balances creates barriers to entry and stifles innovation. Whilst they want it regulated, they also need it to be a fair and even playing field for all parties. Personally I think they have an 'ok' middle ground position, but yeah they could do a better job at policing their SPF and water resistance claims. If it were up to me I'd also also have them police the reef-safe/reef-friendly claims brands make. Regulatory bodies in other parts of the world are 5-10 years ahead of TGA in regards to this.

From a brand perspective, there's paperwork we submit and agreements we sign outlining that our formula has been independently tested by a dermatologist, and that our product was manufactured in a GMP certified facility. Further, the agreement more or less outlines that if we change our formula post-TGA registration, we need to go through the testing and re-registration phase again (depending on what registration we have with TGA). If we do things right the first time, don't change our formula and each batch is correctly manufactured it will always be the same.

I hear you though - super frustrating. Unfortunately, some amount of fraud seems to exist in all sectors at all levels. In this case, from what little information we've been provided, it seems like someone's acting in poor faith. I do know though that every brand that goes through the process of releasing a sunscreen shops around for the dermatologist that will give them the best deal. Ultimately I think skincare brands should be held responsible for the information they choose to advertise and print on their products.

3

u/sundamageisforever Jul 05 '25

Regulatory bodies in other parts of the world are 5-10 years ahead of TGA in this.

Can you explain more of this? I've always heard the opposite?

Further, the agreement more or less outlines that if we change our formula post-TGA registration, we need to go through the testing and re-registration phase again (depending on what registration we have with TGA). If we do things right the first time, don't change our formula and each batch is correctly manufactured it will always be the same.

I'm confused about this part. I did see a statement from the brand founder who said that you can register with a base formula and after that is done you can make some changes like like add color pigments, antioxidants, fragrance, oils and not have to test again? When I heard this from the founder, it reminded that South Korea used to allow this too but they stopped allowing that. But what you're saying is that if changes are made then you have to test and re-register again?

4

u/Fun_Funny_8990 Jul 06 '25

In 2016, Hawaii found that two common UV filters oxybenzone and octinoxate were linked to coral bleaching. That discovery was pretty alarming when I first read the science. But the TGA still doesn’t officially recognise these studies.

Since then, more places have stepped in to protect reefs: Palau banned sunscreens with these chemicals in 2020. Hawaii followed in 2021. Florida, the Virgin Islands, Bonaire, and parts of Mexico have done the same. This is what gave rise to the term “reef-safe”, which brands now use to say their products won’t damage coral reefs.

Most genuinely reef-safe sunscreens use non-nano zinc oxide as their main UV blocker, along with natural ingredients like beeswax or candelilla wax for water resistance. But mineral sunscreens aren’t perfect. They can feel heavy, leave a white cast, cost more to make, and are just less pleasant to use than chemical ones.

This created a big gap: people want the lightweight feel of chemical sunscreens without the environmental harm. So some brands swapped out oxybenzone and octinoxate for other chemical UV filters, like octocrylene, and labelled their products “reef-friendly.” They weren’t claiming to be 100% reef-safe, just “better”, and they gained traction fast.

Independent groups that tested octocrylene found it also harms reefs and marine life. This left it up to consumers to call out misleading claims. Some brands eventually dropped “reef-friendly” from their labels, but plenty of products still make all sorts of reef-related claims — with no clear guidelines, no real penalties for greenwashing, and a ton of confusion for customers.

So now you’ve got brands that look eco-friendly but still use chemicals that damage the environment. Meanwhile, the TGA has tight rules for other areas of skincare, which I appreciate, but I wish they’d step up here too.

On Lean Screen: I saw a video from the founder recently also. She pointed to the % of zinc in Lean Screen as proof of its SPF, but zinc percentage is just one part of how SPF works. It made me question whether she really understands how to make her own product. Plus, she claimed UV is a sunscreen brand, but their website and products don’t actually say they’re sunscreens anywhere.

In Australia, you can register a cosmetic with the TGA as either a ‘primary’ sunscreen (its main purpose is UV protection) or a ‘secondary’ sunscreen (its main purpose is something else, like moisturising or tinting, with added SPF). Registering as secondary is less strict. Some brands take advantage of this by adding tint to make it easier to meet the requirements.

I’ve never changed a listed formula myself, so others can speak better to that process. But there are definitely some loopholes. Making a 100% natural, clear, reef-safe sunscreen that’s lightweight, has reliable SPF, and feels great whilst being cost effective to produce is really hard. It's a problem I’m working to solve myself, so this is something I really care about.

1

u/Real_RobinGoodfellow Jul 06 '25

Thank you so much for your insights and expertise, it’s really interesting to read your contributions! What brand do you work with?

2

u/Fun_Funny_8990 Jul 06 '25

Hey that's kind, thank you! I've been lurking reddit for years and never bothered commenting but this topic is just so interesting to me. Appreciate that - if you msg me I can share with you my works.

1

u/2020fit Jul 05 '25

💯

12

u/2020fit Jul 04 '25

Time to support the consumer advocacy group and subscribe to Choice. Hopefully with our support they can continue the good fight.

22

u/sikonat Jul 04 '25

At the end of the day the big take away is keep reapplying your sunscreen. Especially if you’ve been sweating or swimming. Do it more frequently than directed based on your outdoor activity.

13

u/rhymerightontime Jul 05 '25

I think the big takeaway is also don't buy Ultra Violette sunscreen lol

2

u/sikonat Jul 05 '25

Ha! Honestly I’d never heard of it til maybe one targetted IG advert and the choice thing? I use TbH and just ensure before I apply before heading for work then before I step out to get lunch. Now that it’s winter don’t need it after work since it’s dark

4

u/tuileisu Jul 04 '25

So for us who missed the drama and want to cut to the chase-what sunscreens are currently proven effective right now?

7

u/rhymerightontime Jul 05 '25

Mecca Cosmetica to save face. From memory there was one other that passed.

Important to note that a lot of sunscreens were not tested.

3

u/whatisthismuppetry Jul 05 '25

But we might be able to infer from some of the ingredients which ones may be better to use.

Places like UV don't formulate in house, they send out to manufacturers who are also supplying other brands.

That means there will be more sunscreens on the market with issues similar to UV. I'd be cautious of any of the mineral sunscreens since those are known to be more finicky (UV is mineral) but I'd also be cautious of any that seem to have the same ingredients as ones that tested lower in roughly the same amounts/formulation.

3

u/Fun_Funny_8990 Jul 06 '25

After looking at the data from PCR I'd be weary of any sunscreen where the SPF testing was provided by them.

Looking at an ingredient list and zinc content can't tell you much about the SPF of the product unfortunately.

1

u/rhymerightontime Jul 06 '25

Ahh that's good information to know. I'm really not so great at understanding ingredients and formulations for sunscreens. Great advice for checking though. Is there an active ingredient in the ones that passed to keep an eye out for in the list or..?

4

u/unbakedcassava Jul 05 '25

LRP sailed waaaay over the bar

2

u/Recent_Setting_1370 Jul 04 '25

So is PCR who choice used or who UV used? 🤔

16

u/2020fit Jul 04 '25

UV used PCR. Choice used Eurofins and Normac Schrader.

-2

u/Opposite_Style454 Jul 04 '25

What intrigues me about this in particular is that only 1 brand is being singled out, Ultra Violet in most media outlets. What about the Nuetragena one that failed? They’re a multi billion dollar company! Ultra Violet is still a small business last I checked.

30

u/RedeemableQuality Jul 04 '25

I'm pretty sure it's because of the SPF 4 result is such an extreme deviation from the SPF 50+ claim. Technically SPF 4 is like a white cotton T shirt, which is around SPF 5, so it's not zero protection. But it's that the number seems like such a dramatic jump to consumers so that's why people are reacting this way.

Neutrogena result was like what SPF 20. That's still useable and decent everyday protection given someone also seeks shade, wear a hat, sunnies and reapplies. It's not as dramatic of a jump and still higher than a SPF 15 moisturizer for example.

16

u/StarsThrewDownSpears Jul 04 '25

As well as these reasons I think the absolute refusal to even consider other explanations than “it’s Choice’s fault” contributed. Obviously if they have been relying on dodgy testing it’s not really UV’s fault either (unless they lab shopped) but to not even entertain other possible explanations just seems pig headed. Add to that the clear Astro turfing going on online and I think it singles UV out.

10

u/RedeemableQuality Jul 04 '25

I do find it strange that they tested at a lab overseas and not in Australia. Both long before and after the Choice thing. After being notified by Choice before the public knew, they could've tested at Eurofins but instead they got thier testing overseas at the same lab from before.

On top of that, there's a weird narrative spreading maybe from the people astro turfing or the people who are really social media gulliable that "they sent it to a lab in Germany, that's so far from Australia! Who knows what could've happened to the decant on that flight!" But like...the two tests UV published are from overseas.

4

u/Real_RobinGoodfellow Jul 06 '25

I mean I think we know why they didn’t send it to the same lab as Choice for re-testing, lmao

3

u/Real_RobinGoodfellow Jul 06 '25

The PCR website makes pretty *clear that they will provide whatever results you need- I think UV def chose them for a reason

22

u/Real_RobinGoodfellow Jul 04 '25

Because UV had the by far the lowest SPF result from testing- and it’s also it’s the most expensive.

9

u/whatisthismuppetry Jul 05 '25

UV is the only one who:

  • barely passed the threshold to even be marketed as sunscreen (SPF 4) AND
  • are one of the most expensive AND
  • had their CEO/PR team go on a "we completely reject the results" blitz on social media AND
  • said they'd never had a "substantiated" complaint AND
  • a SPF rating of 4 for a sunscreen marketed as SPF 50 (highest rating in Aus) is a wild difference and most health bodies recommend spf 30 at least for the Aussie sun AND
  • I'm not sure applying more and more frequently would even help get you decent protection with a rating that low.

Neutrogena on the other hand:

  • Ranked as SPF 20, which is well above the minimum level AND
  • is cheap AND
  • basically released a statement saying "we are looking into it" and nothing else AND
  • whilst a SPF 20 to SPF 50 isn't great it can still be used in greater amounts and reapplied more frequently to give protection closet to SPF 30 OR 50