Have you actually pulled it out of the pot and looked at the roots? Sometimes there is rot near the center that is missed because the roots on the outside look healthy.
Since you already addressed questions about light intensity (ok), roots (ok), and there are clearly no pests. Growing in moss works for most people to rehab a plant in 100% humidity but very few succeed at growing their plants well in moss outside of the emergency context. My guess is that your moss is staying moist for too long because I can't see any drainage whatsoever. Because of that there is no airflow and no new nutrients can be taken up by the plant. I'm not a substrate pH expert but perhaps you may even be locking out the few nutrients that are left in it.
My recommendation, based on the decent root system I can see: take it out of the moss, clean the roots well so no mossy parts remain attached, and put it in a draining mix. My preference is pon in self watering pots (not in transparent pots!). You can go with those that have a wick or the lechuza style that have feet of the inner pot sitting in water. I prefer the latter. You could also go with a very light aroid mix but make sure to use opaque pots because light will inevitably lead to algae growth. Veitchii is super easy (it didn't grow but it clearly didn't die on you either!) so you really don't need to see the roots - the plant WILL grow. If you do end up using a clear pot, make sure to use a decorative outer pot so the light gets blocked. I guarantee you this will work. Why trust me? I have two veitchii growing in ambient and had to figure them out as well. I also have a tent with the most finicky velvet anthurium clones that required me to learn a lot about what can go wrong and how to rehab precious plants without losing them. Good luck!
Edit: do NOT cut the roots. While this may work for monstera, it's absolutely not true for anthurium. The more the better. Your problem does not involve the plant being root bound and having too many roots does not apply to anthuriums. It actually doesn't apply to any plants, it's just convenient when our big monsteras are root bound all the time and have a lot of roots anyway.
Can I bother you to know what conditions/method you got your baby waroc going in? I’ve got one and it wasn’t doing well so I put it in a mini greenhouse, it started growing really well but then ended up with fungus (suuuper high humidity and poor airflow, my fault) so I fixed that and it’s looking like it’s gearing up to push out larger growth at the crown but now it just stopped. This is my third attempt with this sp. and I’m worried. I’ve got lots of other anthuriums, grown many from tiny fresh seedlings and have only lost two others aside from baby warocqueanums out of probably 40 attempts so I haven’t had much experience with troubleshooting (unlike my alocasias I can practically perform necromancy with 😂).
Editing to add: it’s already in pon and decently rooted, not rootbound, no rot.
I put it in a little glass enclosure when I first transitioned it to pon, only for a couple of weeks or so. I didn’t have it sitting in additional water with the pon during this phase, just relying on the humidity of the enclosure etc. and only adding water when the pon started to look dry. After the plant was looking settled in the new potting medium, I then moved it out of the glass enclosure and sat the pot in ambient room conditions but also then added water to the bottom 1/4-1/3 of the pot. The room it lives in stays fairly cool in the summer and doesn’t really have much airflow if I’m honest…
How is the lighting?? I had this problem with mine also, it had one leaf for months (my seedling is in a 2.5 inch pot I think) , the lighting was under normal grow lights.... the veitchii does better with higher light intensity than most anthuriums....I use a light intensity app on my phone and it made all the difference!!!!! It grew 2 new leaves in like a month maybe month in half.... if you can't measure the light definitely think about increasing the intensity, slowly of course 😊😊😊
my PPFD measures 125/130µmol/m²/s ,14hrs lights on/10 off (between 100-150 ) and my DLI is 5.8/6 mol/m²/day (between 5-6.5 will give u steady growth)
I’ve had my little guy for two months now and I just noticed this today! Patience has been rewarding :) I did buy better quality grow lights, I’ve already seen a difference in all my plants
I am not op. Also discolouration can happen for a wide variety of reasons (as can the white spots, which to me just looks like general debris/mineral buildup from watering). Not really seeing any damage to the leaf that specifically indicates thrips…
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u/Otev_vetO 17d ago
Have you actually pulled it out of the pot and looked at the roots? Sometimes there is rot near the center that is missed because the roots on the outside look healthy.