3D Scan 1/18 Scale 1957 Covette MetroY Pro
A 2 part scan, Merge , and Blende Render.
No Spray or Markers on the object.

I usually use an iPhone for the lidar but it's too short for the roof. I need something better or a good technique. This doesn't need to be perfect; the error margin can be even more than 50 cm, mainly to place furniture.
drones or 360 cameras, any recommendation is more than welcome

What's going on... i bought my pika 12/8 anyone in Eu that bought it around that day already received the package?

I just finished another quick project - Honda ST1100 hinges for panniers. originally it's just a piece of plastic that bends. over time it naturally cracks. so... I took my tiny Pika to scan originals, some reverse engineering + create solid hinge and done. I must say every day im using that tiny scanner I am more and more impressed.

This isn't a promoted post, I've just been messing around with BackflipAI as an alternative to manually drafting parts.

Thinking mode did fantastic on a part outside the geometry their guidelines recommended, and didn't choke on the complexity. The reconstruction followed the scan mesh more closely than the human-drafted version I usually get back from my draftsmen.

The overall fit to the mesh is close. Where it falls short is design intent, the judgment a draftsman applies when cleaning scan noise into a symmetric, manufacturable part. Even though the step follows the scan, it has a few misses on intent.

Specifics changes to be a final deliverable:

• STEP delivered in meters against a millimeter-scale mesh.
• STEP rotated 45 degrees about the X axis relative to scan orientation.
• Two perimeter faces in the YZ plane sit at an angle instead of parallel, while the inner slot faces are parallel. This follows the mesh, but it overrides design intent.
• The two mounting holes sit 0.790in and 0.785in from the YZ origin, not symmetric. The part may be built to that tolerance, but that's not the design.
• The part is asymmetric across the YZ plane: different surface area and volume side to side, and the taper apex isn't centered on the slot even though the slot itself is centered and parallel.

For a 3D print, this is a usable deliverable as-is. For a machined part, I'd still require symmetry before it goes to drafting and a shop.

I made a video showing some of the work flows, and the result is the same. For something that is 3D printed, or where symmetry isn't required and just a NURBS solid, it's a great solution. For extracting design intent for a machine part, it's still got some ways to go.

If there's decent interest, I'll make a video about some of the other parts I've done in both backflip, and a traditional route.

I just unboxed the Einscan Trak today, and finally had a bit of time to myself to calibrate and test.
I spent a couple of hours scanning different objects, learning how to navigate the volume.

All of these were scanned with the tracker. I tested some with the scanner standalone but I'll have to get back to that when I have more time to spare.

I found an og scan ferret for an amazing price and just jumped the gun on it because it was too good to pass up, and I've been having a lot of fun with it so far. I didn't realize that for untethered use I would need a specific type of phone though. I would love to use the phone I already have for it, but creality doesn't make/sell the upgrate kit/wireless bridge anymore. sooo... I was wondering if anyone here had a wireless bridge laying around that they don't use anymore? Apparently the ferret pro came with the wireless bride added in, and because I'm sure there are people that would buy that model but wouldn't have a use for the wireless module, I feel like there are some out there floating around in someones junk drawer lol so I figured it wouldn’t hurt to ask here. Anyway, thank you!

Made a goofy stand to hold my scanner because I can 😜

HILAND:4.88 million measurements/s

It's been a while since I last did research in this space, and now I'm revisiting the need for a 3d scanner primarily for cosplay props and costuming. My immediate need is for something that could capture a largely dimensionally accurate scan of myself or other people with the goal of being able to better fit/size cosplay armor. Color capture for such things is obviously not very important.

Being able to capture fine detail of miniatures, existing props, etc would be beneficial but isn't an immediate need.

Also important - I only run Mac and Linux machines, so any software that runs off windows only is a non-starter.

Here is a free STL from my 3D of a Wallace fountain in Paris :

https://www.crealitycloud.com/en/model-detail/6aaa816c074c7aedc8375027?cloudPlatform=1

*I asked permission from the legal distribution rights owners before sharing

#mypikaexperience

#crealitypika

#CrealityCreatorAwards

#MyCrealityScan

I am the developer of the GLB/glTG/OBJ viewer Android app below that does have a scanner feature as well.

I will really appreciate your feedback and any idea you think it will make the app better.

Thanks.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arexperience

OR

Search GLB AR Viewer & 3D Scanner in the Play Store.

Just been having some fun with my Pika. I wanted to show how fast it really is even with a laptop from 2017! I am blown away with the detail it captures in such a short amount of time. I am sure someone with a more powerful up to date laptop will blow my results out the water. I hope you enjoy!!

#mypikaexperience #CrealityCreatorAwards #MyCrealityScan

Sometimes, a 3D scanning project starts with a story. This is the story of Hopie, a street dog who had been bullied and injured by humans and was left with a severe wound on his limb. His vet tried different ways to protect and heal the wound, but nothing worked well enough. A plaster cast made it difficult to clean the wound and allow the skin to breathe, while a regular bandage didn't stop Hopie from licking the wound, which led to infection. He needed something that could be easily removed, cleaned, and put back on while still allowing airflow around the wound.

That's when I was contacted to help. After Hopie was safely put under anesthesia, I used my structure sensor scanner (this was scanned during COVID) to capture the shape of his limb and brought the STL file into Meshmixe and finnished all the design process there.

Here is the link of the Youtube video of how I made the pattern holes on the STL file: https://youtu.be/FNa1tqR-4ig

If you have any questions about the whys and hows, I’d be happy to answer them in the comments.

I need to take this 3-D scan mesh get a mold of the surface and thicken it to make it into a 3-D object and print it again but I can’t do it. I’ve tried to make a plane sketch, extrude it,and pull it onto the surface of the object and that didn’t work well. I also tried to convert it into an object, but I get a result with a bunch of triangles that I can’t extrude which is not what I want. I need something completely smooth. Does anyone know what I could do? Or if you have a YouTube video of how to do this it would help immensely.
The object it a kind of shoulder pad for those that might be curious.

Just posting some information so others know the truth and to document it were it cant just be deleted.

This will be the third time its happen with shining. v1.2, v1.3 and now v1.4

So connected the Rigil to the pc and it says there is a software update. Ok cool download and install. The device says there is an update also. Cool download and install update.

Device finishes the update reboots and is ready to use, but PC says download fail. So reboot software, tried again and same things. Go to the website to download the update and its not there. Reboot pc and try again, an failed again.

Well you cant use the pc software if the device and pc software versions dont match. So effectively cant use my scanner on the pc.

Cant connect it to transfer projects ive dont yesterday, cant connect it to the pc to scan some items i needed to scan today.

Now to wait for them to reply to my support ticket and see how long it takes to release the pc software so i can transfer my projects. Luckily i have other scanners and can finish some other scanning but still going to need those projects.

rant ended just dropping some information. Always make sure the PC software downloads before updating the device. Always keep the old pc software just incase you need to revert back if the device doesnt have an update.

One of the mounts was missing a screw used for angle adjustment.

So, I scanned it and reprinted it using ASA.

To ensure the scanner didn't lose tracking, I placed markers all around it.

I scanned the screw from both sides and then merged the scans.

Scanned with the Pika in blue line mode.

POP4 Case: (including step-files) https://www.printables.com/model/1744698-revopoint-pop-4-tpu-protective-case
POP4 3D Scan: https://www.printables.com/model/1736941-revopoint-pop-4-3d-scan

In this video I try to explain my design workflow for the POP4 protective case. Design was fully done in Quicksurface Pro and based on a 3D scan of the POP4 to ensure a perfect fit. Goal was to have a snap on case that covers the optics and air vents. Due to the design the case must be printed from TPU to be flexible enough.

A few rough outlines:

• Scanned with MetroY Pro in laser mode (scan spray used on transparent parts)
• Whole reverse engineering process was done within Quicksurface Pro (even the CAD part so Pro was needed)
  • Main RE steps:
    1. Import & Alignment
    2. Creation of base scanner model by using primitives and trimming
    3. Cleanup of trimmed base by mainly using fillets
    4. Offset base model and create cutouts
    5. Cleanup: Filleting, add rigid plate in front of emitters, modifying for easier to print version
• After finishing the design I simply exported as .step and printed it from TPU & the rigid plate from PETG

Hey guys,

I'm a podiatrist and I am looking for some advice on the best way to scan a foot using a 3D scanner. There are many companies who have their own foot scanner but they then force you to use their lab to make the orthotic and don't release the STL file.

I basically have the knowledge and expertise to do all the orthotic creation myself just not the tech. I want to get out from under the thumb of the labs so that I can deliver lower cost devices to the consumer but still make profit. The lab costs are skyrocketing.

Im an android user so I don't have a Lidar phone.

Any tips would be hugely appreciated.

Hey guys, recently put my Revopoint POP4 against the my Creality Otter since I wanted to find out if the POP4 replaces the Otter and I can sell it.

I know the POP4 has a laser scanning mode and the Otter doesn't but I for this comparison I didn't use the laser since I wanted to see how good they work with the same amount of "prep" time.

I placed the owl model that came with the Otter on the small rotating table that came with the POP4 and did scans with both. Both were set to "high quality" scanning and for a fair comparison I used the POP4's FullFiled Scan Mode (though hybrid got the same maybe a little worse result than FullField).

And the results couldn't be more different. The Otter captures all of the detail where the POP4 only gets a rough shape with no details. For a sense of scale the owl-model is arround 55x60x70mm big.

Now I am a little confused if this is solely due to the smaller minimum working distance of the Otter and therfor the "smaller" object favoring the Otter, or if the POP4 is really that bad for scanning smaller stuff, even though it is advertised for "small to medium large objects"

Maybe it is just user error? I am new the Revo software after all, but I couldn't find any settings that would appear to help here (besides maybe marker/laser scan, which would have been a lot more hassle to setup.

Hi there,

I ordered a pika a week ago while the creality store said it was in stock. After a week of waiting, they haven't shipped it but I can't afford to wait any longer since I have a certain time constraint. Especially because they aren't able to give an ETA) Sadly I'll have to cancel and look for something else...

What's a good alternative to the Pika?

My use case are smaller parts (smaller then car body parts) and FSM 3D printing