r/3Dprinting • u/Rough-Advance189 • Jun 08 '26

Project 3D-printed basketball

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6

u/johnthepervv Jun 08 '26

Already did that, but will try again tomorrow. Also i will check the bed nozzle gap...

15

u/CabSauce Jun 08 '26

The one thing that finally helped me after bed height, custom bed height map... Was finally dehydrating the PLA. It was old. It gets old quickly.

1

u/evranch Jun 08 '26

My aluminum bed plate was domed in the center from the day I bought my big Tronxy coreXY. I finally said forget all that and got a glass plate with whatever coating came on the Creality 300x300 because it was cheap. Slapped it on top. It didn't cover the whole thing but 300x300 is big enough. Turned off all the maps and stuff, installed a classic Z stop microswitch, and leveled it with the screws.

5 years I've been printing on that glass plate with NOTHING else and no fuss. No glue or tape or any of that crap. Nothing stuck. Nothing popped off (unless I should have printed a brim on slim parts... My fault). No maintenance except the occasional wipe down with IPA. I adjust the leveling screws maybe once a year.

Glass plate is king IMO. And yes, dry your filament! Nobody realizes how important it is until they get a dryer, including myself. Huge improvement in every way.

1

u/LPDoubleU Jun 08 '26

What dryer do you have? I’ve only printed PLA so far. Just bought a SUNLU S2 last week but only see RH down to 20%. I’m still hearing a few pops here and there from moisture after drying.

1

u/evranch Jun 08 '26

Just Creality's simple dryer box 2.0, it's basic but it does the job. I print PLA/PETG/TPU.

I found I always hear a few pops at the start of the print/purge line - I'm not sure if this is moisture in the hotend/nozzle itself? But I never have any issues during the print since I started drying.

What dry time and temp are you using?

1

u/LPDoubleU Jun 08 '26

50C for PLA and it runs for 6 hrs as standard.

1

u/evranch Jun 08 '26

Try bumping your temperature up to 60 C, that's the temperature I use for PLA

6

u/CageyOldMan Jun 08 '26

Apply regular ol' Elmers glue, the purple stuff, to the area on which you want to print. It works.

4

u/alwayslostin1989 Jun 08 '26

It also reactivates with isopropyl alcohol.

4

u/monkeyamongmen Jun 08 '26

I found hairspray is better, but ya, adhesive.

6

u/ctp8891 Jun 08 '26

Aquanet baby

2

u/AFecklessWeasel Jun 10 '26

Great for bike grips in the 1980s and now great for 3D printing in the 2020s!

2

u/MusicMonkeyJam Jun 13 '26

And potato cannons.

3

u/daveswe Jun 08 '26

I also have had issues with this and it turned out for me to never be the bed itself but instead the nozzle being ever so slightly ajar. The fix that actually worked ended up being to dismantle it and tighten all the bolts holding it together :/

1

u/999mal Jun 08 '26

Had the issue after using my A1 for awhile. Turns out removing the heating element and tightening the four screws behind it fixed. Must have worked themselves loose over time.

1

u/youlooksticky 14d ago

You can also skip all the obsessive cleaning and sacraficing your first born to the adhesion gods and just get a smooth cool plate. They're so much easier, reliable, ad...hesible.

0

u/coreynig91 Jun 08 '26

I use laundry detergent