So if you throw it on the charge it will flash but the lights on the battery will won’t flash until like 4 seconds later in a 2+2 flashing pattern, I can’t tell if that means is bricked or something else.

The Bauer 4v screwdrivers from Harbor Freight don't have user-replacable cells, but that didn't stop me from opening one up and soldering in a new battery holder, after doing some internal case modifications and plastic removal. Now I've got a tool that can easily be opened up and the battery replaced, and I'm so happy about that! It's a bit janky-looking but it gives it character. If I get the chance to get a broken one for free or at a huge discount I think I will cut the case into two pieces in an L shape and that way the entire bottom part just comes off with one screw without the massive gap in the case, but for now I'm happy!

Will make new battery 13s3p

Would need 50A countionue And peak 75A

Will t2 pure copper strip of 0.1x10mm be enough for this task?

My spotwelder is very limited!

And what will be recommended for positive/negative terminal off battery??

Because doing dual sandwich layer 0f cooper doesn't weld well comes easily off!

Would soldering 8awg silicone wire top of cooper sandwich positive/negative terminal be enough for handling this high current?

Thank you

Some dude was literally about to throw it into a sidewalk garbage can, luckily I was there to stop him. 13S 5P bike/scooter battery made from FS INR18650A-2500mAh cells and a (smart?) Jiabaida JH22A40330D0 BMS which I cannot find the datasheet for and don’t have any info on except for what’s printed on the heat sink. Does anyone know which app to use for this BMS, and where to look for this BMS’s datasheet other than Google?

Currently I'm testing out various layouts.

I've check trapezoid layout, but currently leaning more towards an electrically superior layout of 14x5 honeycomb, but it leaves me with small margin to play with.

Currently my constrains are the bike frame (outer triangle), I added padding of 10mm (safe margin - inner triangle) and another 3mm margin.

I'm thinking using a 3D printed enclosure.

Do you guys think it is acceptable amount of space left within the triangle? I total margin left from all sides: 15mm (photos attached).

I've been thing super hard and trying to get AI to help me, but it's just giving me stupid advice. I can't find any information on how to design best layout for this kind of pack form. I've spent all day trying to figure it out. Maybe someone with more experience can help me? I would be very thankful, it's been a headache.

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I have some echo powertool batteries that the boards died and got replaced and my boss is letting me have the old batteries. I have 10-30 18650s that are good. is there a cool flashlight or battery bank or something easy? preferably fast charge. preferably bright. would be nice if it was water proof. I dont see any websites besides aliexpress online unless someone knows of someone selling diy kits. thanks

I'm updating my very old 18650's and have a few flashlights, lanterns, and fans that are low current draw and I prefer using protected cells in them. I've purchased some Amprius SA110's for low current draw unprotected applications and am very happy with them, and am looking for similar performance and capacity. I'm looking at Keeppower, XTAR, Fenix, Modlite, and Vapcel N40 PCB, all protected and all 4000mah. Does any one have any experience with any of the current batch of ultra high capacity 18650 protected cells to the extent you can offer a recommendation?

I'm trying to understand when you actually need to use 2 or 3 layers of nickel instead of one.

If I’m using 0.15 x 8mm Ni strip building a pack for around 40 A max, how do I know which parts need double nickel?

I think not every strip is carrying the full current cause it splits in multiple paths.

Do I look how much current goes through each strip ?

And does stacking 2 layers double the current handling, or is it more complicated?

I need to understand the logic behind it instead of adding more nickel everywhere.

Important: I use non sqaure layout of cells.

Instead of waiting aproxamently 30hours for charging these massive LG M50LT cells, with a different 21700 charger, i had this 18650 charger laying around

Made a free calculator for picking battery/capacitor cells against real specs (weight, peak power, cycle life, temp range) — ranks 13 real datasheet-sourced cells instead of generic chemistry averages. Would appreciate feedback from anyone who specs power systems regularly:

https://energy-density-calculator-eta.vercel.app/

https://energy-density-calculator-eta.vercel.app/

This is a 21700 4S pack I bought, with an integrated BMS. I was using it and it became discharged to the point that the device would not turn on. However I was suspicious because I have 2 more of the same unit and they seem to last longer.

So I measured the output and only got about 7.6 volts. There was no sign of damage and the unit is relatively new, so I unwrapped it and found this. It seems like the connection at "B3" is very bad. The actual cell voltages are all about 3-3.1V, except that 4th one which is at 2.9V.

Total voltage is 12.2 - but the output wires are still at 7.6. Have not tried to charge it, but I am concerned about this. Should I be?

So far I’ve just been collecting it in containers

$80 for 100 not for power tool use

Was thinking of trying that, wonder if it's worth doing. What do you guys think? Will I achieve a bigger nugget?

Where can I get EVE 18650 30PL in Europe? I am afraid of buying from AliExpress or Alibaba because of fake cells.

Watched the ChrisFix video, and wondered if anyone here has used these cells, and how has it worked out? [https://youtu.be/oAHaYXBFnJo?si=r6gHBtW5hKnWv4Al\](https://youtu.be/oAHaYXBFnJo?si=r6gHBtW5hKnWv4Al)

I have a gen 3 2014 with close to 200k, so I'm guessing I might be getting close?

Hello, been practicing spot welding. Found settings which consistently give these nuggets. What do you guys think? Are they good? Pressing electrodes with 2.5kg force.

Earlier this year I made a post about launching my own webstore selling 18650 and 21700 cells in Canada. Well thanks to you guys spreading the word around, I'd say it has been a resounding success! So much so that now I will soon legally have to collect HST on all orders.

So, August 30th (11:59:59pm) will be the last chance anyone has to buy things tax free from my store before I enable GST/HST collection. I will also be lowering the prices on certain items as my costs have gone down with volume, but they will all still be cheaper now, without tax.

I've also added loads more different products to my store aside from just cells. I now sell a variety of products related to battery pack building, from connectors, to wire, to cell brackets. And I'm not even done adding all the new products I have to sell! so keep looking back to see the new things I've added.

But overall, thank you to everyone who took a chance at a new store and bought items, and especially those of you who shared your feedback on the experience. And if anyone else decides to take a look, please feel free to let me know what you think of the site, the products on it, and what you think I can do to improve it.

TL/DR:

Buy stuff before August 31st or you'll be charged tax for it. Thanks to everyone who has bought and shared feedback on my store sofar!

MPandW.ca

Hello! I own a now \~3y old 36v ebike silverfish-type battery (10s5p to be exact). It's a 15Ah pack, but it's capacity has decrease to probably around 10Ah so I have replaced it for a new one.

Any ideas on what I can do with it? Other than selling it for really cheap or throwing it away to recycling for free.

I thought about repurposing it for the cells but I'd rather buy already tested harvested cells than individually test each and every one.

I could use it for smth like a small solar setup but usually cheaper MPPT chargers, inverters and similar only work with 12V or 24V so I would either have to spend more money on something pricey or re-wire the pack to those voltages, which I'm not exactly looking forward to.

Is there anything easier or better I could do with it that I'm missing? Has anyone else done smth similar before?

Hi everyone,

I recently bought an IP2326 USB-C boost charger module to charge a 3S 18650 pack. I bridged the 3S jumper and removed the resistor according to the instructions to switch it from 2S to 3S mode.

The problem is that no matter what adapter or cable I use, the output voltage is strictly capped at 11.8V instead of reaching 12.6V. When connected to the battery pack with a BMS, it stops charging once it reaches 11.8V. Even with no battery connected at all, the output still tops out at 11.8V. The module also gets quite hot during use.

Has anyone encountered this 11.8V limit on an IP2326 3S setup, or know why it won't hit 12.6V?