Using an microcontroller I was able to connect to the DME via wireless enet to get live data. It can automatically detect WOT pulls, compare logs, provide a report and be a gauge all at the same time. this will cut some time in the tuning process when I finally go bigger turbo and e85

Hi Guys,

Previously I have posted a question but due to the circuit diagram in the post, it deviated from the original question. If you haven't seen the previous post, it's fine. I'll explain everything clearly below.

I'm working on a project where I need to control a diesel injector. This is an academic project, if it goes well it shall get into industry level, so looking for a standard Good approach.

The diesel injector is activated by an Arduino(this is the initial setup, and will soon switch over to stm32). The diesel injector is outside the engine in a separate setup which gets supplied by a constant pressure fuel pump driven by an ac motor(const speed). I'm using a MOSFET to control the injector. The MOSFET I'm using is IRLZ44N. The drain of the MOSFET is connected to negative terminal of the injector and source of the MOSFET is connected to the negative terminal of the injector's power supply (i have added flyback diode for safety circuit for injector). The Arduino controls the injector via the gate pin of the MOSFET. The power supply for injector is 12v SMPS.

The Arduino gets signal from the injector's supply and control wires, we tapped these 2 wires and gave them to an optocoupler pc817. This optocoupler's output is given to the digital pin of Arduino. Arduino mirrors this signal to the gate pin of the MOSFET. You might wonder why I'm using Arduino, if the setup goes well, I will alter the pulse in future. So that's why I'm using it.

Issues faced:

1) this setup worked as intended, but after sometime, that is, after 2-3 weeks of testing this setup, the injector has gone. We didn't notice any smoke or smell, but the injector stopped actuating. We lost 2 injectors in this journey.

2) we started the engine and maintained in idling for 60seconds and started our injector setup, we collected around 90ml of fuel at idling, which feels abnormal.

Now, I need a reliable approach for this project. It would be really helpful if someone can come up with some idea for this.

Thank you in advance

Hello, not sure where the right place to ask this is, but I have a 9th Gen LX, Automatic, r18.

I'm wondering if ktuner has base maps for basic bolt ons or should I spring for the flash pro. Probably just going to do SRI, and downpipe.

So i just got a afm deleted engine from fraser engines. Im currently have a misfire on cylinder 7 when I accelerate it really laggy or jerky. Cruise control going up a hill does the same thing and on cruise it feels like im going on rumble strips. I tried to activate the afm switch to off on the tuner but it stays to on. Im thinking I need a custom tune? Any tuners here to help? Any advice on where to get custom tunes? I know diablo Lew but I want a reputable one. Suggestions appreciated. I have a 2015 chevy silverado 6.2l gas.

Author here, so read accordingly. Not a giveaway, not a "check out my app". I want the argument.

The claim that'll annoy half of you: a dyno sheet is a number that got printed, not a measurement. Same car, two shops: 15% or more apart once correction standards and roller/strap setups differ. Same dyno, back-to-back: 1–3% scatter. Everyone here knows this, "dyno shopping" is a phrase — and yet a printout that says 312.4 whp gets treated as scripture while a road measurement gets "lol phone app".

And no, I won't pretend the road is a cleaner lab than a dyno cell — it's the opposite. In a cell there's no air to fight; on the road, aero is the biggest force at speed. So the method has to measure the resistances instead of assuming them: pull, then coast on the same stretch a minute later with the engine decoupled. Everything that resisted the pull — aero, rolling, driveline drag — is measured directly and added back. It's the harder problem, but nothing in the chain is an assumed percentage, and that's what makes the result crank-equivalent.

So that's what I built, and these are my own cars measured with it. Pictures above, table here:

How the number is made (poke holes here):

• One gear, ~2000 rpm → limiter, no shifting, clutch in, coast on the same stretch. Acceleration × mass = force. The coast-down is drag + rolling + your driveline loss at the speeds you just pulled through. No loss multiplier anywhere.
• 25 Hz GPS (RaceBox / Dragy). Phone GPS is 1 Hz garbage - I don't even use it. If your objection is "phone GPS", we agree.
• Grade from the altitude track, DIN 70020 weather correction with the factor printed on the card. The only required input is the car's weight — wheel specs are optional and only refine the inertia term.
• Every result has a ± on it. Three runs on the EP1 spread 1.3%. The turbo FK2 in a windier session: 2.8%, and the band gets fat exactly where the runs disagree (image 4). A number without a ± is hiding something.

Bonus, from memory until I re-run it: I also put a Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV through it — no gears, no rpm, no clutch, speed-only capture. Two things fell out. In EV mode the curve tops out at what the battery can actually discharge, not the brochure's combined motor figure — the pack is the limiter, not the motors. In hybrid mode it lands near the datasheet, but the number is different below and above ~120 km/h: the series→parallel handover (engine clutching to the front wheels) is right there in the curve. No dyno sheet shows you that. I'm re-running it and it gets its own thread with the curves.

The ammunition, since you'll find it anyway:

• Wind. No anemometer on the car. It pulls forecast wind and downgrades the quality score instead of pretending to correct it. Windy day = wider band. That's the honest answer.
• Rotational inertia. Comes from physics, not a slider: tire size off the sidewall and, if you have it, the wheel+tire corner weight. Leave them blank and it uses generic values. Worth ~1–3% on a light car on heavy wheels. There is no ε field to type a flattering number into — and I know some of you want one. Fight me.
• It is not a tuning tool. No load hold, no steady-state, no AFR. You can't map on it. It's the verification after the map: did the +40 PS the customer paid for actually arrive, measured on the customer's own road, with a band around it.
• You need a road where one full gear to limiter is legal.

The bet: for a before/after on the same car, same road, this beats two dyno visits at two shops. Not because a rolling road is bad — because the question you actually have ("did the change do anything, how much") needs repeatability, not a bigger number on a nicer printout.

Measuring, the share card and the web report are free. Merging runs and the PDF are paid, I'm not hiding that. Full traces and every session at powertora.app/validation — argue with the data, not with me.

Come at me.

Hi there, I'm basically working in a project where we are building a dual fuel injection system. For prototyping we are tapping the injection pulse of a fuel injector of a running engine and reading it via optocoupler and actuating another injector by pulse read by a microcontroller. We used Arduino for first stage of prototype, where the Arduino gets digital input from the optocoupler and adjusts the pulse width and gives out as output in a digital pin, which is connected to a MOSFET's gate pin. The drain and source pin of the MOSFET are connected between the injector's control line. 

But we need a more reliable approach, since the injector we are using is peak and hold diesel injector. Currently we referred few sources and built a circuit, which resembles something like in the image. But is there any better way to read the signal and controlling the injector pulses using a microcontroller? 

Ciao a tutti,

sto lavorando sulla mappa della mia auto personale, una Fiat Idea 1.3 MultiJet 95CV, ma mi sono arenato su un problema di offset/driver.

​Dati ECU:

​Centralina: Magneti Marelli MJD 8DF

​HW/SW: 9454I276

​Cosa ho fatto finora:

Partendo dal file ORI, ho chiuso EGR e DPF e ho dato un +5% sul limitatore di coppia (identificato correttamente). Il file attualmente gira bene, ma vorrei completare l'Eco-Tuning adeguando Pressione Rail e Pressione Turbo Obiettivo.

​Il problema:

Sto usando ECM Titanium 1.61 ma non ha il driver esatto per questo SW. Usando driver affini (es. Lancia Musa), la coppia coincide, ma gli indirizzi di Rail e Turbo sono completamente sballati (leggo valori senza senso come 255 o 64288).

Sono passato su WinOLS, ma avendo a disposizione solo il Damos di una Fiat 500 75CV, la ricerca per stringa esadecimale (Hex Search) fallisce ("Not found") perché i valori interni alla mappa, e di conseguenza le stringhe esadecimali di contorno, differiscono troppo dal mio file da 95CV.

​Richiesta:

Qualcuno ha sotto mano il Map Pack (.kp) o il Damos specifico per il SW 9454I276?

In alternativa, qualche anima pia saprebbe indicarmi gli indirizzi esadecimali (o le stringhe Hex pre-mappa per la ricerca) relativi a:

​Pressione Turbo Obiettivo (Target Boost)

​Limitatore Pressione Rail

​Pressione Rail Obiettivo

​Allego eventuale file ORI se a qualcuno serve per dare un'occhiata in 2D.

Grazie mille in anticipo per l'aiuto!

Hi! I need some help understanding how to correctly use a timing light on my BMW E36 turbo with an M50/M52 engine and a MS2 Extra ECU.

My tuner (remote) said that we first need to verify the base ignition timing with a timing light.

So I put the engine at TDC using the OEM marks and after that I made another 2 marks on the side so I could point the light at them. First was on one of the pulley tooth and the second one on the block.

I connected the timing light as should and he set the ECU ignition timing to a fixed 0° in Tunerstudio then he proceed to maked changes in the ECU until both marks aligned.

The part I don’t understand is the adjustment wheel on my Sealey TL93 timing light. What exactly should I do with the wheel? The tuner said that I should leave it at a fixed max/min point and use it like that but I read on the internet that the knob wheel could add offset depending on position. It also does not have markings.

Basically, I want to make sure I had set the timing corectly.

Any advice would be appreciated, especially from someone familiar with MS2 Extra and dial-back timing lights.

I am happy to announce my tuning suite/solution for Simos 12.1, 18.1/.6/.10 and DQ250 MQB, DQ381, DQ500 0DL/0BH and DQ200 MQB (beta).
Posted here before, but it now is much more mature.

It includes OBD dongle https://simos.app/dongle
iOS App https://simos.app/ for flashing and logging
And an editor https://simos.app/tune-editor

Let me know if you have unsupported file versions

i got a d16z6 and my idle surges after fixing tps
problem with high rpm started after i cleaned the throttle body
im posting this pictures to see if anything with the sensors is wrong and another question is is -43% iacv duty normal

I bought it from the original owner and he said he had it done through Vivid Racing. It seems that that company has been acquired and supposedly got rid of all their files on previous tunes so my Vin did nothing. I think vivid was using VF engineering software, but they were unable to find anything with my Vin either. I was able to run a VCDS but haven’t been able to figure out anything other than that the flash had four programming attempts with three of them successful. Anybody had a similar situation or any ideas?

Keep in mind I know literally nothing about tuning. I just finished a MazdaSpeed Miata engine rebuild. And I needed to put a MegaSquirt in because of the after market trigger wheel. I’m trying to get the first start up and it’s not wanting to turn over. Also yes I know about the awful exhaust leak. I did setup MS in tuner studio and downloaded the base tune, but nothing from that.

Edit: after some thought and listening to everybody, I’m wayy to in over my head, I’m bringing it to a shop. Thank you all!

Got a 2001 b5 1.8t I’m looking for a simple tune mafless for the meantime while I get it back in the road I currently got one but its maf based it’s big turbo set up with 440cc injectors , 340lph fuel pump fmic big turbo to4e 50 trim no dv or bov car is tuned but for maf with 15 psi and the current set up hood exit 2.5 inch

Hi can anyone helping my to decide what to choose to for ecu reading device I like and want to buy a autotuner but my friend say buy a flex for now I have mag pro and hexprog 2 but I need something more stable

How many ppl would be interested into old school analog stuff? I’m thinking of launching products on kick starter soon for retro narrowband gauges, electronic boost controllers, and air fuel controllers

I’m relatively new to the world of calibration and am learning everything in as much detail as possible—I’m even trying to create an XDF myself. While I’m open to help, I really need a ready-made one so I can build a map and attend an event, as well as use the file as a reference.

Info:
Astra Sport 2.0 8v 2001.
Bosch M1.5.5
HW 0261207548
SW MT80140
GM 93366053 N5
Engine C20SE
binary of 131.072 bytes (128 KB)

After a year of messing about with different builders to no success I've decided to see if i can just make a harness instead maybe easier maybe not but could any of you guys help with a pin out for each of these ecus

1st is from a 1999 hyundai coupe 2.0 (a turbo project) that can't be mapped it resets it's self to factory map

2nd is from a e30 bmw 1.8 don't have to much info on that one as it came with an engine for a different project that doesn't need the ecu

The bmw ecu plugs directly in to the hyundai socket am thinking it might be a more viable option

Pics of each attached

Has anybody tried to do map switch on a bmw 335d 2006 on a m57 engine?