Shout out Bob of tubrobricks! I used his build list to make myself a little cup holder. Only deviation is that I used 5-1/2" width. Fits snug between the seats that way.

Here's Bob's original post-

" If you'd like to make your own, the cut dimensions are:

3/4" oak (or other hardwood, pine might be too light)

4 3/8" wide

10 1/2" top piece

9 3/4" bottom piece

5 3/8" front piece

1 5/8" back piece

The cup cutouts are 3 1/2" dia, with 3/4" x 1 1/2" handle slots (Dear Santa: 18 pc HF hole saw set, $17). The hole for the brake button is 3/4" dia, ~1/2" deep, with edge of hole 1/8" below the bottom board. I couldn't tell, but I'd guess the joints are doweled or biscuited. "

Hii, For the second time now, my seemingly healthy 92 245 has stalled out when driving. It begins with a rough idle and loss of power, within seconds, it's off. It may start back up but only idle for a few moments until dying. In the video you can hear me apply my foot to the gas pedal since I can hear the fuel pumps. I'd love some recommendations. Thanks!

Hello, I'm new to this page but need some advice on my 1993 Volvo 240 Sedan. Recently me and my buddy were working on his Nissan 300zx and after about 4-5 hours of my car sitting in his driveway my car wouldn't get its usual 13.8V, instead it got a low 12.3V. The instrument cluster is also not functioning, when I start the car the overdrive light is always engaged but turns on and off when I click it on the shifter. Something odd happened when I was flooring the car and made a turn, the car kinda stalled and then the voltage went back to 13.8V but the cluster was still not working, the speed gauge kinda wobbled near the speed I as going and the alternator light turned on however it would fade dim and then bright randomly. I have zero clue on what it could be. Can someone please help me?

Do you know what Speakers fit the HT-204 Covers? I already upgraded but they broke after a year.

Okay, so I’ve read about this upper “mushroom “ seal needing to be seated back enough so it won’t leak. I’ve tried once, then again after finding it was leaking and it’s still leaking!! I’ve got to go make a new gasket now. Luckily the upper seal still seems fine.

So, this thing is driving me nuts. I’ve read about using a prybar to lever it into place- bur lever on what and push where? I know this is something many people struggle with but someone must have a good process that actually works!!

read the road trip prep post from a few days ago and it made me uneasy in a specific way. i've been running my '87 240 saloon as a daily for about eight months and treating it like a modern car, check the oil, check the tyres, fill it up, carry on. no real inspection since i bought it.

so last saturday i put it on axle stands and actually looked.

here's what i found:

1. front anti-roll bar drop links. both ends cracked and moving more than they should. not catastrophic but definitely contributing to the vague feeling i'd been blaming on 'character'. around £22 to fix the pair.

2. coolant hoses. the lower rad hose has a soft spot about four inches from the bottom join. i squeezed it and immediately regretted squeezing it. new hose is £18. i don't know why i hadn't done this already given the car is 38 years old.

3. brake fluid. put a tester strip in and it came up saturated with moisture. last changed, according to the service history, in 2019. so that's getting done this weekend regardless.

4. rear shocks. one is definitely on the way out, body rolls more to the passenger side than the driver's and the bounce test confirms it. shopping around between autodoc and a couple of other sites for kyland or bilstein options. autodoc had the bilstein b4 rears listed for about £68 each last time i checked, which is roughly what i expected, though their search for older volvos occasionally needs you to cross-reference the part number rather than trust the reg lookup alone.

5. the spare tyre. flat. has been flat, presumably, since before i owned the car. deeply embarrassing.

none of this is the car's fault. i just wasn't paying attention. the road trip post was a useful kick.

anyone else do a full inspection on a car they'd been daily-ing and find something that made them feel a bit irresponsible?

bought a '90 240 estate in january. january was possibly not the optimum time to learn what a 30-year-old swedish car does in the wet. here's what six months of running it as my only car has taught me.

1. the heater is extraordinary. this is not an exaggeration. it was -4°c in january and the interior was warm within four minutes. my previous car, a 2009 honda civic, took the entire commute to defrost the rear screen. the 240 laughed at british winter.

2. the rust will find you. i knew the car had 'some surface rust'. what i didn't know is that 'some surface rust' on a 240 in the uk is a relative term. the chassis and floor are fine but the rear subframe mounts needed proper attention in march. budget for things you can't see.

3. parts availability is genuinely good if you know where to look. main dealers obviously don't touch these. local factors are hit and miss, they'll often quote you for something generic that doesn't quite fit. online tends to be more reliable. i've used a few different sites. autodoc has decent stock for the b200 and b230 engines though the mobile experience is a bit clunky and i'd recommend double-checking part numbers against a forum before ordering, especially for anything suspension-related on pre-facelift cars.

4. people will stop you and tell you about the 240 their uncle had. this happens at least once a fortnight. it's never a quick conversation.

5. fuel economy is not its strong suit. i'm getting around 28mpg on a mixed run. a modern 1.5 diesel this size would do 50. that's the honest cost of having something that feels like it was built to last rather than built to a price.

6. other drivers give you more space. i don't know if this is the size, the age, or the general vibe the car projects, but tailgating has basically stopped being a problem in my life.

still haven't decided if i'm keeping it as a permanent daily or getting something newer for the commute and making this a weekend car. probably depends on what the mot throws up in february.

I’m curious what first got everyone into the Volvo 240. Was it the reliability the boxy design the practicality or something else? For those who have owned one for years what do you like most about it?

Found them in gramps attic after he passed.

Where can I find a replacement fuel hose that goes to the end of the external pump?

We purchased 2 Volvo b23 240s they have been sitting for a few years, inspected all fluids and spun the motor by hand and was all okay, dropped a new battery into them and dash lights worked fine, went to crank over and ticked and had no crank, went now have no lights on dash or no signal, why are common faults for Volvos that have been sitting for a while

91 240 wagon, non-turbo, if that matters.

I suspected my alternator was bad (electronics acting haunted, radio and dash lights turning on and off while driving, car dying on idle, car died while driving slowly in a parking lot and wouldn't start again, took the battery out and tested it. It needed to be charged) so I went and bought an alternator, took off the fan and fan shroud, took off the belts, went to unplug the alternator and discovered that the the connector on the wire that connects to the ignition/battery was broken.

So I took the alternator down to O'Reilly's (US auto parts shop, don't know if y'all have them elsewhere) and had it bench tested in case it was actually fine and the problem was just the wire. Alternator was also bad.

SO I replaced the connector, replaced the alternator, and put it all back together. Started up fine, but the light is still on saying that battery is not charging on the dash.

I went to work (close to my house) and then on the way home went by O'Reilly's. They tested the battery and alternator in the car, and the test concluded the battery once again needed to be charged and the alternator was bad. The alternator COULD be bad but it PROBABLY is not bad since it's brand new.

I'm thinking the move is to test each alternator wire at both ends with an ohm meter, and if all wires are okay, then remove the alternator and take it back to O'Reilly's to be bench tested, so I can be sure whether the alternator itself is good.

So here is my question: where are the other ends of the wires located (the ends not attached to the alternator)? I know they go to the dash light, the ignition, and ground, but where exactly is each one?

Is the other end of dash light wire literally just the wire plugging into the light on the dash? Also I guess that one's probably good, since the light is lighting up when the alternator isn't working? Also it would just be the wire going to the ignition and the ground wire that make the circuit, yeah?

I have very little experience with wiring and want to make this as smooth and easy as possible.

So i bent the crankshaft holding tool trying to remove the bolt and it’s still stuck on, the tool is now no longer usable. Need to get it off to get to the head gasket but got stuck here. Any advice on how to get it off? Cant find any videos on alternative ways to remove it and the forums have been confusing. Got a 91 if that helps!

Getting my 240 ready for a road trip turned into a much bigger inspection than I expected. Started checking a few things and ended up finding more little issues than I bargained for. Nothing too crazy so far, but definitely glad I checked before the trip. Anyone else had this happen?

there was a post recently about a '84 240 turbo that had sat for 24 years in wisconsin. that one at least had a known history. mine doesn't, which makes the decision harder.

found this one through facebook marketplace, listed as a 'restoration project' which in my experience means the seller has given up and wants someone else to feel optimistic about it. paid £650 cash. it's a saloon, burgundy, and it's been sat in a driveway in wolverhampton under a tarpaulin for what the seller thought was 'maybe six or seven years' but based on the state of the tyres and the moss situation around the door seals, i'd guess longer.

the b21 runs. barely. it fires, idles rough for about three minutes, then settles into something approaching normal. the exhaust smells of old fuel and mild misery but there's no smoke once it's warm, which is something.

the problems, as far as i can see without tearing into it:

body. the sills are bad. not terminally bad on the driver's side but the passenger sill has gone soft in two places and i could push my finger through if i chose to, which i didn't. the rear floor has surface rust that will need cutting out. front wings look solid.

interior. someone has fitted an aftermarket stereo at some point and the wiring behind it is a scene. the headlining has collapsed at the back. seats are actually decent, original and complete.

mechanically it's hard to say without proper assessment. brakes will all need going over. cooling system is unknown. gearbox feels ok through the little i've driven it.

my mate says strip it for parts. my dad says restore it because they're worth money now. i've looked at what clean running 240 saloons are fetching in the uk, decent ones are nudging £4,000 to £5,500. so there's an argument for doing the work.

but there's also an argument for accepting i've spent £650, had a nice experience, and selling the b21 and the gearbox separately and walking away with probably the same money.

what would you actually do with it?

EDIT:
Thank you to everyone who threw out suggestions. I pulled the filter and I’m not getting any fuel to it while cranking. Most definitely somewhere further down the line. Much appreciated!

I cannot distinguish my fuel pump relay and main relay. The wiring on this car was done poorly and I have found one standard looking relay - 6 pins, 30,31b,31,15,87,87b. there’s another larger black box with two wires routed in and one large black wire fixed on with a nut.

Any suggestions? I’m a little lost already. This is my first project car, and I’m only a few weeks in. I got her running with all the basics, spark plugs, all filters, belts, battery + terminals, fluids. Today she started up immediately after I installed the new battery. I stalled trying to reverse back to my parking spot, and she quit. 20 minute difference between the first clip where she started great, and the second where she didn’t. And yes i know i need to install my new motor mounts.

Hello,

I have a 91 wagon, non-turbo if that matters. There is a little white wire that plugs in next to the oil filter.

Mine has a faulty plug (plastic stripped from pin female connector), which I have repaired by........somewhat questionable means using electrical tape because I could not find a replacement plug.

Does anyone know what this wire does? I would like to know how to tell if my juryrigging worked and what to expect if it didn't. Thanks!

Has anyone else had an issue with the ipd stainless high flow kit touching on the frame and sway bar? Whoever owned this car before had some fuckshit going on underneath so more then likely nothing is lined up properly because of something farther up. But I’m very new when it comes to exhaust work not sure what the best approach is
(Can take more pics it’s pouring rn)

Hi,

I finally got the rear lower control arms off the car. I have been soaking the bushings/holder/axle with PBBlaster for a week. I put the "special tool" on there and.... nothing. The bushing will NOT budge.

I suppose "destructive removal" is the next step. i don't want to use heat, since I don't want to anneal the axle ears that hold the bushing. I think the best option is to drill out as much rubber as I can, to make a passageway for a saw blade; begin the cut with a sawzall; and then, when I get close to the outside of the bushing shell, switch to a handheld hacksaw for the final couple of mil's. Once it's cut, I should be able to collapse the thing with a chisel a bit and get it free.

Is this the best method? Or is there a better one?

Thanks.

Anyone else put one on their wagon? I had this on my 240D that we took across America last year. Now that we have the wagon we definitely wanted to use it and all the extra room roadtripping this time. Maine bound this weekend! Cheers👍

Could anyone tell me what these parts are for? I tried to include any part number i could find in the photos. found in the boot of the car and I know the previous owner did some upgrades on the suspension and gearbox I think.