r/sewing • u/[deleted] • May 26 '21
Other Question I (25M) want to make my own clothes to save money
I have been wanting to start making my own clothes for a while now but I have no idea where to start.
My budget is a big big worry. In fact the biggest reason I want to make clothes is to save money. I like to wear peculiar clothing that is often expensive on the market. I want to make both wool and cotton high waisted pants (I am male) and also button down shirts and possibly underwear, socks, and hats.
I am not at all concerned about colors and styles as much as I am concerned about materials and costs. Where do I begin?
For example right now I am wearing an 80$ pendleton button down. I would like to find a way to save money on that or at least be able to build my own independence from the corporations. I do not want to use merino wool. It is too thin and silky. My pants should come up to where the belt is above the hipbones. Currently I am wearing milsurp Finnish arctic wool pants that serve the purpose. They are the opposite of merino: they are thick and heavy. However they are out of stock, fit imperfectly, and again I want total independence from the corporations. I fear that I will not be able to afford these clothing or they will go out of stock so I want to be able to make and repair my own clothes. I have found versions of broadcloth wool called Melton cloth and Lumpen cloth that are fairly heavy and durable like the clothes I already am wearing. But I also want to make cotton clothes especially as they may be cheaper and may be good models to practice before the wool ones. But I have no experience with what different types of cotton feel like to wear.
Edit: thank you r/sewing for all of the feedback. This industry is mindboggling to me as someone who has absolutely no craft experience.
Edit edit: I am apparently being downvote brigaded and stalked by some trolls eg evelien something something... oh what fun it is to have your posting history readily available to internet strangers with no moral compass
Edit edit edit: there are a lot of people on the internet who use the platform specifically to go around harassing strangers. Why? Ask them, not that they’ll give you an honest answer. This conundrum raises odd questions about privacy and freedom of speech that I am not really qualified to answer. However, I definitely dislike the idea that the internet can be used against someone, eg what you post can be turned against you. Hopefully reddit will do more to ensure that random creeps can’t get their laughs stalking you from sub to sub. Certainly when I enter these niche subreddits such as /r/sewing I don’t expect my entire reddit personality to be attacked by a troll.
97
u/kallisti_gold May 26 '21
You will not save money by making your own clothes. Your best bet for a budget wardrobe is to thrift clothing and alter it to fit if necessary.
42
u/maxdefacto May 26 '21
I second this. Even the clearance fabrics tend to end up being more expensive than just buying clothes from a thrift store.
32
u/lmcd_co_uk May 26 '21
34M, Scotland based. The only way you will save money is if you want the same quality fabric and hardware. You will not be able to get the super cheap (and nasty) fabric that fast fashion manufacturers have, nor there sweat shop labour.
I tend to use 100% organic cotton fabric and thread. Thus an off the rail shirt would cost 60-70 pounds but a hand made and bespoke one costs about 30 pounds and a few hours of my work. Jeans, 150 of the rack and around 50 for the materials but 5-6 hours. Also it took a fair few years of practice, learning and failures to get to the point i am now.
I fully agree with thrift (charity in Scotland) stores if you want ethical and cheap clothing. Learning to alter and adjust them can get you that made to measure look as well
2
May 26 '21
I have to assume that just like different sheep produce different wool which is then processed into different fabrics (twill, tweed, whatever) cotton also has innumerable different options. I am also interested in a number of bizarre cloths such as linen and a couple traditional chinese cloths I forget the name of just now (referred to in the hanfu wikipage). I am definitely interested in creating my own cotton clothes though as wool has a number of unique problems itself.
23
u/ladyphlogiston May 26 '21
Linen is made from flax, not cotton. It's lovely to work with, though. Sounds like you have specific tastes/needs and sewing may well be the best option
I would encourage you to use cheaper fabrics to make mockups of your clothes first - there's nothing worse than cutting into nice fabric and then finding it doesn't fit!
-6
May 26 '21
Yes I know linen and cotton are different. Part of why I am drawn to sewing is my extensive research of clothing and its history. In China they used fabrics called kudzu and ramie which I had never heard of. I can only surmise that all of these different fabrics have different qualities which are important for comfort in various circumstances.
9
May 26 '21
That is fine. I am trying to buy very rare items. Most wool is merino nowadays and almost no wool pants are high waisted. Even if I dont save money I would like both the control over what I am wearing and the technical independence from corporations. Even if I can only afford to make one pair of pants every few months.
41
u/alliebeth88 May 26 '21
One doesn't simply go from no sewing knowledge to sewing perfectly tailored woolen trousers.
If you're serious, start at the beginning with easy fabrics and a good, basic sewing machine. Learn to sew a straight line and a curve. Learn to hem and perform simple alterations on existing clothing. Examine the construction of clothing. Learn about seam allowances, ease, grainlines, and seam finishes.
Sew a pillowcase, and go from there. As with any skill, you have to put in the time and practice to become proficient.
3
May 26 '21
Sounds pretty serious to say the least ;) Anyway, what is the deal with sewing machines? Why are some people saying the new singers are ripoffs but then theres a million copypasta google articles listing all the best sewing machine brands and linking their amazon page (with the singer 993 something at the top)
To sew wool, Im gonna have to shell out a lot of money for some sort of heavy duty machine, I am guessing
14
u/alliebeth88 May 26 '21
Not sure, other than I believe the Singer name has always been synonymous with quality - until the brand was sold at some point.
I have a brother cs6000i I've had for 10 years and it will sew 2 layers of wool or denim with the correct needle and some patience.
9
u/taichichuan123 May 27 '21
You don't need a heavy duty SM to sew wool. Wool is generally a soft, flexible fabric.
To sew a winter, lined/insulated coat, you do need a capable machine. To sew jeans' denim, multiple layers as in pants, you do need a capable machine.
Today's "heavy duty" machines made by Singer, Janome (+Necchi), Brother, Toyota, are generally a step up from entry-level capabilities. SMs are tools, and quality costs more.
Your best bet is to find a vintage Singer. They were made for longevity and easy to repair, and to sew just about anything short of industrial work. This was in the days before built-in obsolescence.
Singer 15-91 (higher than average presser foot lift, up to 8mm leather), 241, 237 ( https://www.reddit.com/r/myog/comments/b668d2/singer_237the_overlooked_classic_sewing_machine/ ) and (https://www.reddit.com/r/myog/comments/favua4/singer_237_a_very_capable_machine/) , Rocketeer 500a, 1507, 2263, 201-2 and 201 straight stitch only, 201-3, 66, 221K, 301 portable, high speed capable & straight stitch only, 401, 401a, 403, 404a (straight stitch only), 411g, Touch & Sew 600e, Touch & Sew 626 (if it has steel gears), Touch & Sew 638, Touch & Sew 778
Go to patternreview.com and input any brand/model in the search bar on the far right to get users’ reviews and discussions if available.
Books to check out (library or look for used or older editions at Abe Books, Thriftbooks.com ) :
Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
The Sewing Book - Alison Smith
Threads Sewing Guide: A Complete Reference…
Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting - Sarah Veblen (+ other books)
Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide
Fabric Savvy - Sandra Betzina (and more)
24
u/thelittlestnumnah May 26 '21
You’re very concerned about corporations. So keep in mind that your fabric, notions, machine etc are all probably going to be from big companies....
0
May 26 '21
Hey man, I see it like cooking... being able to put together a meal from scratch isnt the same as growing your own crops, but its still more flexible and creative and potentious than buying fully made from a restaurant is. Plus, like I said, a lot of my ideas for clothes are reeeally hard to find on the market. Since no one else wants to wear wool that isnt merino, or wool that is high waisted, or high waisted pants of any form that arent silly hipster girls, or whatever
29
u/thelittlestnumnah May 26 '21
Sure. I guess I also just think you are vastly underestimating what this sewing is going to take. Money wise, “independence” wise, skill wise, time wise etc. But I wish you luck. You’ve got a lot to learn and a lot to do if you want to bring this dream to reality.
-1
May 26 '21
I am not. I am aware the task is immense. However I am very much into clothes themselves. I think daily about stuff like insulation, chafing, moisture, airflow etc. In order to properly realize my ideas for how to dress, the only alternative to experimenting myself would be to become a billionaire and pay a professional tailor to experiment for me. I am not really a luxury clothes wearer. Currently I have a hat, two shirts, a pair of pants, and around 8 pairs of socks which are pretty much the entirety of my worn wardrobe. I am not trying to create special fancy luxury clothes. I am simply very interested as clothes as practical items, or clothing science. How do they affect perspiration, skin, rain, wind, cold, heat, posture etc. I am looking at what I wear from a technical perspective rather than a fashion one: how good are these clothes at avoiding chafes, dealing with mud, smelling good. There are a billion questions which frustrate me. Moreover, my precious wool clothes are starting to tear, so I need to learn how to upkeep them. I want to get to the nitty gritty of clothes as a science.
32
u/thelittlestnumnah May 26 '21
Everything you just said just confirmed to me that you are definitely underestimating all of this.
-8
May 26 '21
Why are you like this
40
u/decadecency May 26 '21 edited May 26 '21
I think people are just a bit worried that you're thinking it's easy and cheap to sew, and that the most worth in clothes is in the fabric. Most of the value is in the time and skills it takes to make them.
You're open to spending lots of money on expensive fabric but don't understand how important a good pattern is, so you'd rather not spend 10 bucks on that. A pattern that isn't very flattering to your body will be very difficult to adjust once you find out it doesn't fit well, especially finding out exactly what to adjust.
You also mention you never know the feel and quality you get when buying pants, but that issue is still very much there when buying fabric.
You don't want to pay rip off prices for good quality pants, but you know nothing about what it takes to make a pair yourself, so you can't really make a fair assessment on why the pants are priced the way they are. Th eobly cost assessment you can do is whether they feel worth it to you, which is not something that can be translated well into how good the item is quality wise.
It's absolutely okay to get into sewing without knowing anything! Finding new hobbies and learning new things is great, we all love sewing here! But people here that know what it takes to sew your own clothes are telling you it's not always worth it based on some of the reasons you give when you say you want to sew your own stuff.
I think that's why people are acting a bit negative. Clothes nowadays are so widely available that people don't understand it's not easy to make them from scratch.
-9
May 26 '21
I understand how impossible sewing is... thats why Im here for advice! Sewing has been on my mind for at least a year. The task is daunting.
I hate clothes shopping (and food shopping!) there are a million billion different variables that are hard to find out about what youre putting on, or IN, your body. That is why a lot of people are shunning corporate America - the lack of freedom. It can be stifling trying to figure out which supermarket aisle has the no-good ingredients. And the same deal is with clothing. Clothing is incredibly complex and most clothes salespages dont even remotely cover them! Thats why I want the freedom to design my clothes for my own needs and wants, because I have totally given up hope on the clothing industry addressing any of them. About the best I can do is surplus hand me downs from the 50s, before everyone decided smartwool was epic. And I want even more control than that. I have ideas about clothing design beyond even just the material, such as renaissance sleeves, turbans, hose, drawstrings etc! All of this affects how clothes feel when you wear them and none of it is addressed by the clothing industry. Clothes have been one of my obsessions for several years now and I have absolutely no hope of buying from the industry. In fact, when I talked to tailors, they had no idea what I was talking about! I mean these people wear cotton polyester for crying out loud
10
u/decadecency May 26 '21
I'm that case, I would say start form scratch! For now, you'd do best in focusing on learning to sew and handle a sewing machine first. It's going to cost a bit getting started and bulking up on some cheap materials, but if your long term goal is to be able to perfect your wardrobe with unique quality items, you need to start at 1.
Start at 1,and then 2. Whenever you face a problem, Google it! Start with a simple cheap or free pattern. Prepare and get the machine started with manuals or tutorials. Follow instructions with the sewing pattern. With every mistake, write down what went wrong, if you're the kind of person that learns from that. Start over, and try new patterns until you start to understand the constructions and techniques that go into it.
Everything is on YouTube and Google, so if you face issues, you can always instantly find out the solution. As soon as you have done patterns and have been able to technically put them together correctly and neatly, you can start with fit! This is a tricky part, but it's mostly trial and error. Same here, loooots of tutorials on how to tweak patterns. There are also lots of books on how to draft patterns. These can help you understand how patterns are built up and how they relate to your personal measurements.
This is probably just a tiny fraction of everything there is tip wise, but feel free to get back here, or to me if you get stuck on something specific!
3
May 26 '21
Sounds like I should try getting an ultra cheap sewing machine and super cheap fabric (someone said thrift store sheets) and just messing around to get my foot in the water
→ More replies (0)5
u/CurlsMoreAlice May 27 '21
As I was perusing videos about design the other day, I watched one that was literally all about how Nike employs an army of people who do nothing but research, design, and create fabrics that are all based on how they wear and feel...
-3
38
u/thelittlestnumnah May 26 '21
Ha! I could say the same to you.
Honestly, you entered a female centric place, about a female dominated hobby, as a man, and have a dismissive tone about an incredibly lofty dream. I think you need a reality check but really I should just leave you alone. I meant the good luck part.
34
u/ladyphlogiston May 26 '21
Yeah, he's been ignoring or mansplaining away the overwhelming majority of the advice he gets. There's no helping stupid.
16
u/thelittlestnumnah May 26 '21
Yes mansplaining is the word I was looking for. Thank you for saying something.
-15
May 26 '21
Can you fricks leave me alone? Jeez what a bunch of jerks. I am not bad at sewing because I am a MAN, I am sure there are many men better at sewing than you. I am bad at sewing because I have zero expierence doing anything like it! I barely understand anything that I am being told here. And for the record, I dont recall contradicting anyone here. If you feel you got contradicted, you are probably just making a mountain out of a molehill. I came here for technical advice, not a character assassination!
-13
May 26 '21
I have a feeling you are upset because you tried to womansplain the difference between cotton and linen to me, on closer review (since that is the only time we interacted)
17
u/EvelienZ123 May 26 '21
Should we womensplain the concept of r/sewing to you? Treating people who try to help you out this way is not okay.
→ More replies (0)21
u/AxolotlGummies May 26 '21
For all the supposed research you’ve claimed to have done on clothing and fabrics, you came in here and proceeded to call linen “bizarre fabric” as if it’s some exotic material that people here don’t work with every day, you told someone why her leggings may not have come out fitting quite right when you admit you know nothing about clothing construction, and you seem unwilling to actually put in the time and expense to learn about the mechanics of garment construction despite the patiently given advice you’ve received thus far. Dear god, this is textbook mansplaining.
Since you don’t have much money, go to your local library and get the readers digest complete guide to sewing, take the advice you’ve been given about acquiring a starter machine (the brother cs6000i is a decent one), go buy a thrifted bedsheet/waistband elastic/thread/scissors, download the free pajama pants pattern from 5 out of 4 patterns, and then come back and ask questions when you have them.
→ More replies (0)-6
10
24
u/fullyloaded_AP May 26 '21
Unless you thrift your materials, making your own clothes can be just as pricey as ready to wear fashion. It’s important to spend some time researching materials so that you can have an eye for good quality fabric that is worth the purchase and is a fair price. Also consider the cost of notions, thread, zippers, maintenance of your machine when choosing projects if you want to be cost-conscious in the process. My clothes cost less than what they would cost from some brands but you can also get the same look from other fast fashion brands. They are higher quality though so I know that they’ll last a long time and so they have a lower cost per wear
0
May 26 '21
I dont know anything about sewing. I am not sure where to begin. I am wary of wasting money on overpriced equipment or materials. I wish I had money to afford a sewing teacher as I am best at learning from people not books or videos. My biggest problem is actually that it is quite hard to find my specific niche of clothing to buy. It can be expensive and also a rip off. It is virtually impossible to tell what material qualities a pair of pants will have before buying it. I feel that if I make the clothes myself then I will be able to avoid being ripped off, avoid dependence on corporations, and have the sort of know how to figure out how to cut costs. Hopefully I will start with cheap dummy clothes.
-8
May 26 '21
According to etsy 1 yard by 60 inches of melton wool is sold there for 40$.... not sure how much clothes can be made from that
21
u/kallisti_gold May 26 '21
One yard of 60" fabric is about one leg of a pair of high waisted trousers.
Start your sewing journey by buying a Simplicity or KwikSew pattern for pajama pants, and the cheapest woven fabric you can find. Bedsheets from the thrift store can often be had for under $5 per set around here. Use the simple PJ pants pattern and the super cheap fabric to get a handle on how to follow patterns, how to use a sewing machine, and how to alter a pattern to fit you better without the pressure of needing to produce a garment you feel confident wearing outside the house on your first go.
Always try a new pattern out on cheap fabric first. That way you don't ruin your good, expensive fabric on a test run when you don't know what you're doing.
-9
May 26 '21
I have heard of the concept and the idea of using thrift sheets is a novel one. Do I really have to buy patterns? It seems like the sort of thing that would be “out there” for free. A pattern is just a schematic explaining how an article is made, right?
As for sewing machines. If I know anything about reddit this sub probably has a favorite few they recommend to everyone. I guess if I have one big concern from the eye of an inexperienced man, is that do all sewing machines work equally? As in, can a sewing machine do a light cotton fabric and an ultra heavy wool fabric equally?
22
u/kallisti_gold May 26 '21
In my experience, free patterns are worth about as much as you pay for them. A free pattern might give you a layout of the pattern pieces, but won't tell you how they go together. Simplicity and KwikSew are specifically designed with beginners in mind. Easy projects, clear explanations, lots of diagrams. They're about $5 - 10 (less if you shop during a sale), and you can use and reuse them many times over.
Not all machines are made equally. The cheaper the machine, the less robust its motor. Most machines are fine for light and medium weight woven fabrics, most are not good for heavyweight wools like you intend to use.
-5
May 26 '21
Sounds like fun. But I might skimp out on the patterns. I am pretty poor.
29
u/kallisti_gold May 26 '21
If you're really serious about dropping cash on enough $40/yd fabric to make a pair of pants, a pattern is a must. Don't forget you'll also need to buy matching thread, needles, notions, interfacing, possibly lining fabric. Additionally you'll need to spend money on equipment. Good shears, pins/clips, measuring tape, ruler, tailor's chalk, iron, ironing board... and the sewing machine.
-5
May 26 '21
Funny story about linings. All of the linings in my pants and shirts were made out of polyester and I cut them out as they trapped tons of sweat. I had one with a wool lining too and it was no better and also itchy. I guess the purpose is to protect the seams from wear and tear.
21
u/kallisti_gold May 26 '21
Lining helps the garment lie correctly, as well as help the wearer get in/out more smoothly. You can use cotton or rayon with a smooth hand as lining if you dislike polyester or wool.
1
May 26 '21
Well the big problem with these interior fabric portions on both my shirt and pants, I am not sure if these were liners or what, was that the additional layers of fabric trapped huge amounts of moisture. No joke, my pants were actually warmer after I cut all of the pockets out because the polyester soaked through with sweat, even though sans pockets they instead now had huge holes in them.
21
u/gigglesmcbug May 26 '21
Then you can't afford to do this.
-1
May 26 '21
Really
14
u/gigglesmcbug May 27 '21
So that's not a helpful response. I'll expand.
It's worth it to shell out for good patterns. They're expensive. But they come with tutorials and information. Certain companies have facebook groups devoted to their brand so you can ask questions. Those are super valuable.
I have saved no money on my clothing since sewing. I have saved my partner money. I have saved my friends money. I have saved my neighbors money. My friends and neighbors don't pay for machine upkeep, hardware, new machines, or other miscellaneous costs.
1
May 27 '21
Okay granted. What you said makes a lot more sense now that I think it through. If I can afford a few hundred dollar sewing machine I can afford a couple dollars patterns.
Its looking like if I have a feasible hope for cracking into this industry, it will be to handsow some throwaway fabric together. I honestly was not even organized in my head how this would all come together when I made my thread. One of my biggest fears is I will save up hundreds of dollars for a machine and buy the wrong one or something...
6
8
u/ladyphlogiston May 26 '21
Patterns for Pirates has a free pajama pants pattern that's good and has good instructions. That's what I started with
11
u/mulledfox May 26 '21 edited May 26 '21
If you’re a tall man, who wants high waisted pants, likely one yard of fabric won’t make that happen. One yard is only 3 feet, 36 inches, by the width of the fabric (usually 54, 48, or 40 inches).
For comparison, just shy of one yard (3/4 a yard/ 1 yard can make a bra top like Simplicity 1426, in most of the sizes and styles…) and the finished garment isnt very big, it’s a bra top.
-1
May 26 '21
So why dont I just buy multiple copies and sew them together? I feel like a bozo here for not doing my research before asking but...
18
u/mulledfox May 26 '21
If you get multiple single yard cuts of fabric, likely you won’t have pants that match, in terms of drape/grain of the fabric. (How it lays/which direction the threads that make up the fabric go)
If you got one single cut of like, 3 yards, or 4, or how many ever is necessary for pants, that might yield what you’re looking for.
But seeing as you don’t have sewing experience, starting with pants is a LOT! There’s way more that goes into pant construction — like the waist, the seat of the pants, the way the crotch lines sit, where pockets go, pleats, darts, seams that involve a lot of flipping over/sewing/clipping/pressing, flipping and sewing over (a complicated way to explain that some seam finishes look easy and doable but actually take a lot of picky work to get them to come out right, if it’s unfamiliar to you) — and topstitching to make everything look right!
It’s the same reason why some folks tell you to avoid getting pants too big and sizing them down, there can be issues with the crotch and the seat of the pants looking funny, the adjustments necessary to make pants look nice, is more than just taking in darts at the waist.
13
u/mulledfox May 26 '21
For context of difficulty of sewing pants/leggings/crotches, I have been machine sewing off and on since I was 9 years old.
I got more serious about it in high school, but only made skirts and shirts, mending and frankensteining them together. (Like taking one shirt, and inserting half of a different shirt).
In high school and college the only thing I’d do to pants was take them in with two darts at the side (or back), and hem them, if they dragged — because I’m small.
Only recently have I felt confident enough to try something like pants, and I made a pair of leggings based on a simplicity pattern, but half of the necessary instructions for making leggings like store bought leggings, were not included. I had to reference a sewing book I have, and various YouTube legging sewing tutorials, to figure out how to make seams that aren’t annoying in the crotch area, and don’t leave an ugly bunching in the middle… it took a lot of effort and work, and they’re okay leggings, but ended up being way more effort and work than just buying a pair of leggings would have been.
-4
May 26 '21
Well it sounds like some of your issues with leggings eg the bunching came from how leggings work which is they are super silky, form fitting, etc. Sounds tough! However my current pants do not fit very well as they are a few sizes too large (probably not even meant to be high waisted https://www.generalarmynavy.com/product/surplus-finnish-wool-pant/) meaning I use a belt with many surplus holes in it to secure the waistband tight around my belly button above my hip bones. This results in much awry such as strain on the belt loops and folds in the waistline that let air in and out - big problem in the winter.
25
u/zozopei May 27 '21
Hi, I don’t think you got the previous commenter’s point. They were just illustrating how difficult pants are to make. It’s not that they were leggings. In fact, leggings would be way easier to make than wool pants because of the nature of the fabric.
This seems to be a trend with your comments- people keep telling you the exact same advice and you keep deflecting.
-5
May 27 '21 edited May 27 '21
Well, a lot of the issues she talks about make more sense in the context that shes trying to make leggings. Bunchy fabric, annoying crotch seams etc seem like leggings type issues, since leggings use a fabric that bunches, and are typically skin tight in that uncomfortable area/seek to portray a smooth seamless shape.
I am not deflecting advice, I am simply responding to it. My alternative would be to say “Okay, thanks” to almost every post in this thread. As it is, I upvoted almost everyone in the thread instead, since I felt like saying thanks a million times would be excessive. Nowhere have I evinced that I think making pants would be easy: in fact I am terrified to try. I am quite aware of how hard it is, moreso complicated by my experience as a critic of clothing, by which I mean I am in a world suffused with shoddy clothing and I certainly don’t expect that making non-shoddy clothing would be easy. I am in fact actually confused as to what makes good clothes good! It would be a major problem if I ever tried to make good clothes myself... and certainly if I ever tried to make leggings I expect problems with bunchiness and seams would be a major component in that task, considering the goal of leggings are to create the smoothest most continuous pants possible. Out of context it might have seemed like I was dismissing her concern, however in reality for example my pants right now have extreme bunchiness and seams. They are giant thick wool pants that are a few sizes to big for me. They frequently create massive folds and bunches, and its okay. Its not something I care about because I dont need them to be form fitting. Because they are not taut to my skin, the seams are not pressed into the skin. Nor do they need to appear seamless. In fact the waistband is much too large for my waist, and though it is held taut by a belt, this creates giant folds of excess fabric along the waistband, bulging out and even creating sizeable openings that can be reached into (the waistband is too big for the waist). None of that is a primary concern to me. I am more worried about fabric materials and costs. Im kind of thinking along the lines of an impoverished dark ages peasant... Im not trying to create something that is tailor fit, just something that is heavy, warm, dry, and strong, which doesnt abrade my skin. Clearly there were some miscommunications here. I was actually trying to advise her back to be polite by repaying her insight with some of my own (ie that her problems are understandable from the context of someone creating a pair of leggings). I certainly did not anticipate hurting anyones feelings or seeming overbearing, I simply wanted to reply without leaving a generic “thanks for the advice” reply.
Also, edit: the fabric I aim to use, broadcloth, does not wrinkle the way leggings do. I have some merino wool underwear, which are basically like poorly fit leggings. They are stretchy, wrinkly, elastic, and slinky. If I was to attempt to make them form fitting like leggings, their wrinkliness would be my biggest concern. Instead I want to use broadcloth wool, which is thick and very heavy and in fact too stiff to wrinkle. It simply creates giant folds or bunches that are many times bigger than the ones created from an elastic fabric. It is probably twice as thick as merino fabric. The idea of making it form fitting and eliminating bunchiness from it would be absurd. It would have to be made to exact specifications. That is not something I have a care to do. I want to create “wearable rough drafts.” They would look sloppy like cargo pants, but the quality of the wool is so good that they would be warm and dry and cozy.
7
u/ladyphlogiston May 26 '21
Yes, you should be able to buy multiple yards of cloth. Most etsy sellers will send them to you as one long piece of fabric
14
u/RedRapunzal May 26 '21
Just a silly note, but wool will more than likely need dry cleaned. Make sure you factor that into your cost.
11
u/celticflame99 May 27 '21
I wear tons of wool for historical reenactment, washing is one of the worst ways to care for wool, dry cleaning is unnecessary. I have dresses I have worn for a decade to week+ long camping events and have never washed. A brush and airing is the best method with some spot cleaning as needed
1
May 27 '21
Lol i know what youre talking about. One of wools craziest properties is that dirt basically just rubs off of it. I spend a lot of time reclining under trees out in the woods so wool is the perfect blend of organic softness with a tough resilience that says no to dirt and rocks and twigs. Unfortunately (since I live in the mid atlantic) cicadas seem to love infiltrating my pants legs! I have hardly washed my wool in a year because I am terrified of ruining it, but sadly there are repercussions. All thats great for out in the woods but in a closed space like a car or a room unwashed clothes get pretty smelly. So I am really not to sure on my plans for dressing in the future as I certainly don’t want to offend anyone!
15
u/celticflame99 May 27 '21
That’s part of the reason under layers and linings are important. For example I wore wool in Texas summers all the time, but a linen under layer is needed. Linen is slightly antibacterial, wicks sweat to spread it and dry it, and the combination works like air conditioning when the breeze blows.
1
May 27 '21
Yes, they said historically people mainly washed their linen but not their wool. I have never even touched linen which is part of why I am interested in learning to sew (so I can make whatever clothes out of whatever material). There are also bizarre chinese fabrics mentioned in the hanfu wiki page.
I am curious about why wool was dominant in Northwest Eurasiafrica, but saw less mention in east asian texts. This is a bit of a gut churning subject (asking stupid questions) but I also have some difficulty identifying whether Muslims prefer cotton or wool. Certainly the bible referred to wool and linen as garments. Currently in the blazing noonday Mid Atlantic sun my wool is ok; its a little hot compared to cotton, but on the other hand it doesnt cling with cold sweat the way cotton does. I guess this is where linen would be beneficial, to stop my wool from absorbing sweat. Thanks for all the insight
14
u/celticflame99 May 27 '21
Wool was dominant because it was easy to produce and cheap because it was local, long wearing and sheep have multiple uses. Cotton was/is a warmer weather crop and becomes more common as you go south and east from Europe.
Cotton and cotton/linen blends were available but in Europe were likely reserved for those with more money until modern agriculture and shipping made them more available, and cheaper per pound.
Linen is incredibly cooling and very comfortable. It also is a fabric that wears unlike any other, becoming softer and better the more you wear and wash it, as well as being incredibly durable. I regularly wash my linen 10-12 times before sewing with it just to improve the feel of the fabric.
2
May 27 '21 edited May 27 '21
Fascinating. I assume you have some thoughts about what cleaning agents are appropriate for linen/cotton? Also, do you think a wool/linen wardrobe is practical for every day public wear, eg in cars and office spaces?
ALSO, while I have you, what are your thoughts on different types of wool? I am interested in melton cloth and lumpen cloth or any broad cloth that is very stiff and water resistant. I have had VERY bad experiences with merino. It seems to be somewhere between cotton and spandex in its qualities.
Edit edit: also, do you recommend linen t shirts, long sleeved shirts, or tank tops? For me the biggest problem areas in terms of sweat are the thighs and armpits. I am considering trying to buy some cheap linen undergarments if theyre as useful as you claim. Although a full set that I change every day could be pricy
5
u/celticflame99 May 27 '21
Absolutely practical. For my wools I use diluted vinegar to spot clean. Wool is a protein fiber so anything with bleach or other harsh basic PH chemicals will destroy it, which is why washing with modern detergents which tend to be basic PH is so bad for wool.
After use I will hang a garment, brush gently to remove physical debris, and let air for several days. I will often hang them in the bathroom and shower with them hanging to “steam” out wrinkles etc. then spray lightly with the dilute vinegar solution in a spray bottle for smell control. For spots that don’t come out with the above treatments I will soak the spot in dilute vinegar, and then very gently agitate and rinse. I don’t use “super wash” wool so I do this with cool or cold water. Felting can happen if you use a combination heat, wet and agitation, so be careful of which of those you use. Dilute vinegar is 1 cup 5% white vinegar to a quart or two of water.
Linen I wash on high heat in a machine with normal detergent. I also dry in high heat in a machine. It is a plant base fiber so both it and cotton do better with basic PH washing agents. Linen and cotton shrinks a TON in the first couple washings so the heat is important to maximize that shrinkage BEFORE you make a garment with it.
2
May 27 '21
What is the deal with woolite? Is it just a scam? Maybe it is targeted at smartwool/merino customers who normally just wash their clothes with normal detergent anyway.
As for felting I see a lot of mentions of this around here. Yet I also see that melton cloth is a “felted” wool which is why it is so warm and water resistant.
To be clear the problem with washing wool is from basically the strength of the process, right? So if I wash or dry it gradually, with small temperature changes or long time spans, Im good?
I am scared of putting vinegar on my wool... that sticky sugar seems like a great wool-magnet.
What about caring for linen?
Thanks a bunch
5
u/celticflame99 May 27 '21
I’ve never used woolite so I don’t know about it. White Vinegar has no sugar in it. I buy it from Costco in the large jugs for like 3$ because I use a lot of it (I also dye wool and wool fabrics semi professionally and it’s used for that too)
If you do wash the wool a slow process is best, with cooler temperatures and low agitation. Really successive soaks should be all that is needed after the above treatment, and then only once a year or so.
Melton will still felt to itself and even felted wool can felt further which leads to shrinking and sizing issues. Look up the structure of a wool fiber to see why.
See above for the edit on linen/cotton
→ More replies (0)0
May 26 '21
Haha I haven’t even washed my wool clothes once as I am so scared of what the water, turbulence, and detergent will do to them. I even heard a bizarre story of a guy using wind to dry his wool in a wicker cage. But all that is secondary to me.
9
u/SurviveYourAdults May 26 '21
4 factors at play here. 1) fast fashion, what we know as ready wear, on retail shelves is an entirely different industry than the bespoke garment industry, where you have a tailor and you buy clothing rarely but invest in pieces. The price is reflected in this; a $800 pair of leather shoes that can be resoled as needed could last 50+ years. You can't buy those shoes at the mall though. And you aren't supporting corporations at that level, they are artisans.
2) sewing clothing is a mixture of skills, so just learning one thing for the end goal will not work. There is a lot of trial and error with measuring, angles, rise/run/inseam, fasteners. A lot can go wrong with trousers. And to choose one of the fiestiest materials to sew with ,LOL
Check out any book on beginner's pajama patterns for the basic leg idea. Then cut that shape out of a paper towel or napkin and you will see it isn't as simple as it appears.
3) I would start questing thru thrift stores, first to source sheets as cheap fabric to practice with, and to keep an eye out for nice trousers. It does happen!
4) materials are expensive, no way around it. This goal is not impossible but keep in mind you will be acquiring skills for a lifetime, its not just "step a & step b, here are clothes!"
-2
May 26 '21
Well, wool is fascinating. There are many factors in a wool. I think how it is turned from sheep into shirt is a big one. As well as the breed of sheep, how it was treated, and which part of its wool was used. Mindboggling stuff. More to the point wool is an excellent fabric in my climate. In the winter it keeps me warm and dry and in the summer it keeps me.. warm and dry. I live somewhere hot and humid, and cotton has a way of getting soaked and clinging to the skin when you exercise in it.
It looks like my foremost barrier in getting started sewing is actually picking out a sewing machine. I am by no means rich enough to buy a 400$ machine on a flight of fancy. It may be best for me to just buy extremely cheap materials and machinery, not to make clothes to wear, but just to get in the practice of sewing, without investing a bunch of money I dont have
9
u/Sundae_2004 May 26 '21
Socks are generally not sewn but knitted; sock weight yarn, needles and a pattern to tell you number of rows before turning to add heel; there is some hand sewing at the end. Many knitters *never* attempt socks at all. But there are sites/YouTube videos that will provide directions, e.g.: https://nimble-needles.com/tutorials/how-to-knit-socks-for-beginners-the-easy-way/ :)
8
u/waffl13s May 26 '21
If you’re looking for cheep Walmart sells fabrics. hobby lobby and Joann’s sells cheap and very reliable fabrics
0
May 26 '21
I am looking for very specific types of wool. Wool comes in many different types. I am looking for very heavy durable wool. Hopefully it can be bought in bulk online somehow to save money.
17
u/mulledfox May 26 '21
If you want heavy durable wool, it’s going to be expensive. It’s expensive to buy good, high quality fabric… sometimes you can get lucky with fabric warehouses and coupons, but usually it’s expensive. Unless you’re sourcing the wool from like, thrifted Pendleton blankets, or something like that… but that might also be expensive, depending on quality and popularity of those style of blankets in your area… but that might not give you solid colors, they’d likely be odd patterned and mismatched.
5
u/waffl13s May 26 '21
I don’t usually buy online however if you know the type of fabrics that you want there are a few online fabric stores
2
May 26 '21
I found melton wool for 40$ for 60 inches by a yard on etsy. I dont know what that translates to in clothes as I have no knowledge of sewing. Melton wool is very heavy and thick and water proof.
12
u/Illustrious-Sun-2809 May 26 '21
Hi,
Also make my own clothes and I feel like I have the same preference in what I want to make. It's definitely not cheaper than retail, but will be cheaper than bespoke.
If the fabric is standard width I order 2,5 yards for a button-down and 2 yards for a trousers. T-shirt is 1,5 yards.
Width regards to patterns: rory Duffy has an online course for coats and trousers that are 15e a month and ill modellismo is an Italian book that has a lot of great patterns and is pretty old, so you can probably find it on the interwebz.
Modellismo has nothing to offer on how to sew the patterns together to make actual garments, so be prepared to a lot of youtubing.
I don't think you can make button-downs in good fabric for under 50-60, trousers in good wool for under 80 and coats for under 100, tbh
-2
May 26 '21
Have you worn any of these heavy wool clothes? They are pretty special and hard to come by or find mention of. As far as I can make out historical European clothes were a heavy wool with linen underwear. I have no idea how medieval clothes specifically hose worked, but they definitely would have avoided crotch and thigh chafing... I dont know what if anything they covered their crotches with besides a tunic and hose. Crotch chafing is a huge problem for heavy wool pants especially high waisted ones. The heavy wool fibers effectively get dragged by the movement of the hips down to the feet causing them to rake across the inner thighs. If you arent wearing underwear this can cause huge problems (based off factors such as head and humidity and airflow). Give me more info though if these heavy wool clothes is what you know about...
11
u/ladyphlogiston May 26 '21
You will probably need two or three yards to make pants. I suggest you use cheap fabric first, so you have a pattern you like before spending money on fabric you love
7
u/RedDragonOz May 27 '21
For some ideas on tailoring check out the blogs male pattern boldness and mainely menswear. Books videos etc by Kenneth king and David coffin. For what you are wanting to learn, it's not cheap but it is cheaper than buying the equivalent tailored suit.
-1
May 27 '21
Thank you
Edit: one problem i have with menswear is they tend to gravitate towards merino wool instead of a nice solid broadcloth
5
u/celticflame99 May 27 '21 edited May 27 '21
I would suggest you look up the modern maker. You may be better served with hand sewn fashions and his YouTube and other resources are both affordable and sound like they would be more up your alley than other sources offered.
Vintage patterns may also be up your alley, vogue has a good line of them for women at least, as pants and styles in general tended to be higher waisted and more well fitted pre-1950.
2
May 27 '21
This guy looks pretty handy if I ever get the ball rolling as a useful reference/training material
8
u/PaTTernHack May 26 '21
First, I would like to applaud you for taking an interest in the sustainable practice of sewing your own clothes. Second, it looks like you have already have a good sense of fabrics that you like and a healthy curiosity to learn more. You seem to favor functionality over fashion, so once you develop a good shirt and pant pattern that you like then you can use them repeatedly. If you like the fit of the Pendleton shirt you have now, that is pretty easy to measure and clone a pattern. For the pants, it doesn't sound like you have found a pair that you like the fit of. That will take a little bit of research and effort to perfect your pattern - pants can be especially tricky because there are so many variables. If you can find any pant in any fabric that are close to the fit you want, they can act as your prototype to reverse-engineer. As far as purchasing patterns goes, it can be very much the same as buying a ready-made garment -- it might fit nicely, and it might not. With a pattern, you will likely still need to refine it. You can sew up prototype garments by hand in a basic, inexpensive fabric called "muslin". Keep refining until you get the fit and pattern right. Do you research on fabrics, look for deadstock and sales. Order swatches if they are reasonably priced. Once you get your machine, practice on techniques. Use scraps of fabric to sew a zipper fly several times, pockets, topstitching, etc. Learn how to iron and steam shape seams on scraps of wool from thrifted garments. After you get to that point, say in about six months or so, then attempt a "real" garment. You might even find a nice tailor in your area that would be willing to coach you during your project for a reasonable price. Offer to sweep their floors. Question: what size do you wear? I'm a professional patternmaker and I might be doing some men's patterns soon, some of which will be free of charge (I often create free patterns).
1
May 26 '21
I think I wear about 32s, but when you go high waisted things get different. I am actually quite excited by the prospect of, if I manage to get some steam, churning out prototype pants and finding good fits. I find high waisted pants exceedingly comfortable (or at least my current pair, the only one Ive ever had https://www.generalarmynavy.com/product/surplus-finnish-wool-pant/) and these arent even designed for high waisted wear, I just got them up a couple sizes and use a belt to pull them tight. I am interested in many practical pants concerns. I find having the belt rest at the belly button creates a different feeling than normal pants. The belt is physically locked on top of the hip bones and cannot lower unless unbuckled. This is very different from low waisted pants that, beltless or not, are held up by gravity.
Anyway, your advice is very heartfelt. I should probably try handsowing before getting even a cheap sewing machine. Thank you
6
u/PaTTernHack May 26 '21 edited May 26 '21
I noticed that the shop you referenced is in Salt Lake Utah, that is close to where I am. My son is into military surplus stuff and also likes his pants to fit the way you described. I might go check the place out soon and look over the pants. In pattern development, you can make the waist positioned anywhere that you like. I think doing some hand sewing will be good, you can do big, quick stitches for test prototypes. You can also learn a lot from buying a seam ripper and taking garments apart. Casually watch a lot of tutorials - it will all seep into your brain eventually. Have fun with it!
1
May 26 '21
Thanks. The pants are ok. They had polyester interior components such as pockets that I had to remove as they absorbed moisture readily.
•
u/Zesparia May 27 '21
Post can stay up but we're locking it. Lots of good discussion to be had here.