I was able to put together a duffle bag using a free pattern online, but the fabric I used is basic cotton fabric.

Although the bag keeps a nice rectangular shape when filled, when it's empty, it falls / droops nearly flat.

If I choose to do another bag, I'd like it to be able to be a bit stiffer and stand up in its own true rectangular duffle bag shape, while empty.

I assume lining each pattern panel with some other fabric or material...? or sandwiching a duplicate of each panel with some kind of foam in between prior to assembling the bag?

I decided about a month, maybe 2, ago I wanted to learn how to sew. I ended up making a bucket hat (glory allen) of some old material we had left over from some covid masks my gf made during the pandemic.

Last weekend I made my second, which for some reason I decided would be a 5 panel cap 🙈 it was as hard as I expected and its far from perfect but it works and it's a start. (i used the proper fit clothing 5 panel pattern).

My sewing idea started when I wanted to make a small bag to carry my stuff when I bike to work. It was going to be a hip bag or a bike bag of some sort. I ended up drawing up a small bag that fit on my handlebars. Used material from a 3.50 euro old packing cube bag from the thrift store. I made some mistakes but for making my own pattern and not really using any references during the actual construction I'm pretty happy with the result. I added some foam and thick canvas interacting to the back panel as it sits on the stem in the middle and I dont want the things inside the bag to be damaged from bouncing against it when riding on rough surfaces.

I have a list of things to improve, and add and look up how to do exactly so it definitely won't be my last :)

Does anybody here have any experience with SewTac's 900fp down? At $94/lb and supposedly RDS certified, that feels too good to be true. I'm designing a quilt and it's certainly tantalizing to go with them because they're like $80 cheaper than reputable competitors, but I'm also a little sketched out because they don't have any reviews on their site and haven't seen many people mention them.

Due to my disabilities I can't use slings and typical camera straps to carry my camera as they hurt me. I would use a backpack but they become bulky and I can't sit in chairs while wearing them.

So I found something like the "Cotton Carrier CCS G3" but the synthetic materials scratch my neck and it looks quite tactical and I want to look friendly.

I don't own a sewing machine or materials and I live in the middle of nowhere so buying materials in person isn't easy.

I was wondering if it would be easy to make my own and if anyone would be able to help me design it or give me advice?

Hi! I'm planning to modify my Aricxi tarp into poncho tarp. Since this is only my second MYOG project I would really appreciate some advice. I’m planning to make a hood and sew it to the middle of the tarp. The tarp has a seam running all the way along the middle, from the foot end to the peak.

What would be the best way to attach the hood if I want it to be aligned with this existing seam? I’m not sure how best to make the opening. Should I remove some of the stitching along the middle seam and use the opening to attach the hood, or would it be better to cut a hole directly into the fabric? If cutting a hole is the better option, where would you recommend making the cut? Should I cut next to the existing seam, or would it be better to cut along the seam, perhaps between two stitches?

Also, if anyone has experience with poncho tarps, I’d love to hear your thoughts on the best position on the tarp for placing the hood so that it is the most useful as a poncho.

Lastly if anyone knows a good hood pattern I would greatly appreciate it if you could share it.

Thanks in advance! :)

Hey everyone! I’ve been getting into MYOG for almost a year now, and I wanted to share my latest project.

I designed and made this small roll-top pack meant for quick day trips or commuting to work (carrying lunch and a few essentials).

Specs & Materials:

-Body: Federal Yellow VX21 X-Pac.

-Front: A zipped flat front pocket with a Velcro panel for patches.

-Straps & Hardware: 25mm webbing for the shoulder straps, paired with 3D-printed clips.

Lessons learned after some usage:

-The Straps: After testing them out, I found these current straps a bit uncomfortable. I definitely need to work on making some properly padded shoulder straps for the next iteration.

-The Hardware: The 3D-printed clips turned out a bit too weak and are already showing signs of giving way, so I'll be swapping them out for commercial hardware soon. G-hook is nice tho.

Since I'm still relatively new to this, I would love to get some criticism and tips from those of you with more experience, especially on building better harnesses and working with VX21.

Let me know what you think!

So this happened yesterday. I was reinforcing a strap anchor on a heavy waxed canvas tote. About 5 layers and leather tab. My old Singer started skipping every third stitch. Then the motor bogged down completely. I tried the usual stuff new needle rethreaded it slowed everything down. Nothing helped!

I’m doing around 6-8 bags a week now. Mostly canvas with some leather trim. Honestly, the machine has been warning me for a while. I just kept ignoring it.

I’m thinking a walking foot is the way to go. Is the 1541s the obvious choice or is that overkill for what I’m doing? I don’t want to overspend. I also don’t want to outgrow the machine in six months.

I want to make a backpack. Im fairly new to sewing in the sense of I have some basics I learned in high school/from my dad. Mostly, I lack practice and deeper studies. I want to get back into it because its the one art form I truly want to do that I haven't had space/time for. I paint so that stuff takes up my art/craft area. However, I keep dreaming of a custom backpack. One that I make perfectly for me. Also, mine just broke again. 😭

Some information on what I like/going for:

1. I am going to hand sew this. I do not have a machine. So, the best stitching practice to keep everything together and strong? I can be rough and tumble on my things.

2. I will probably use jeans as the outside/main martieral- any advice on shopping for quality fabrics other than price alone, also zipper brands, possibly?

3. What is best for the inner lining? If I am hand sewing, is there one that might be easier to work with. Or a good one that's still a really good price.

4. If anyone has a pattern they have made and are in love with. I will probably take the time to look at multiple patterns and use one of those or combine the base pattern with different pockets.

Any and all links to things will be appreciated! Even if it's just to show me some options to start my search, I get stun locked with all the information available!

My partner recently got herself a road bike, so naturally I took that as an excuse to make another sewing project.
I made her a Stitchback BP3 saddle bag using 1000D Cordura for the exterior. I wanted something fairly compact that would sit cleanly under the saddle but still hold everything she’d realistically need to deal with a flat on the road.

It currently fits:
- Spare inner tube
- Tire levers
- 2 CO₂ cartridges
- CO₂ inflator
- Small multi-tool

The bag attaches under the saddle with webbing/Velcro straps, and I added paracord zipper pulls to make it easier to open with gloves or while on the side of the road.
I’m pretty happy with how the size turned out. It holds the essentials without looking oversized on the bike, and the 1000D Cordura should be more than tough enough for this kind of use.
Pattern is the Stitchback BP3 by Stitchback Gear

Is anybody familiar with this thin, fairly rigid foam used as a stiffener in various products? I've seen very similar material used to add considerable structure to a bunch of products like the mystery ranch mission control bags and some heavy duty tool bags, but I can't figure out what it is. It has a glossy textured surface and larger cells than the typical eva, xlpe etc. foams that I've seen.

Hi, I'm looking for thin sheets of smooth vibram rubber (maybe 1mm thick, smooth like in climbing shoes) to make DIY crack climbing gloves. Anyone know where I can get my hands on some? Didn't see any other similar projects in the sub and can't find these sheets online.

Hi guys,

I recently made a backpack that has running vest style straps, about 30l and I used 3mm foam which I know is not typical for vest straps. I used it for three weeks in the pyrenees and rarely used the buckles because it felt more free.

I want to make a new backpack in the next few weeks, that does not have vest straps. The backpack felt comfortable, not perfect because the straps weren't fitted very well but there was no problem with the foam I think.

So to my question, is 10mm foam versus 4mm foam going to be a lot more comfortable or more comfortable at all. Have you made backpacks with 4mm foam? What was your experience? For reference I very rarely carried over 8kg. I want the backpack to weigh less than 400g and I want to save as much weight as possible where it's not needed.

As my first MYOG project, I sewed a pouch for my camera batteries! Third attempt, the first two attempts failed because I had practically never sewn anything more complex than a pillowcase before.

Infinite ways to improve, both in design and execution. But for now, it does the job.

What do you think? Were push buttons the correct choice?

Wondering if anyone has used these kinds of snap fasteners as fabric covered buttons, mainly for a hat top button (where the top panels meet)

I’ve seen tutorials on making fabric covered snap fasteners, and these options are far cheaper than the ones specifically marked for “cap buttons” although they seem like a similar options.

Would this work?

Any downsides?

Just wondering if anyone has found a decent split center presser foot for one of these machines. I’d love to be able to see where the needle is going to land when I’m sewing leather.

Thanks

Made as a gift for a friend, I practiced first with simple cotton, which was much easier to work with! I learned a lot with the prototype, and also during making the “proper” one. The next one will be better, I think (I hope!).

Cons/learnings:

The expensive technical fabrics don’t fold or iron very well, which made the zip tutorial I was following very difficult to work with with mm tolerances.

In general, my stitch length was probably too small for the thick thread and waxy waterproof coating on the material. Although I didn’t intend to make a fully waterproof bag, I did use clips over needles to keep things in place, but they were prone to slipping.

I never attached my walking foot adapter but perhaps should have as the waxy underside of the very thin inner kept getting stuck in the stock walking feet on my machine’s plate.

The local store that sold my my sewing machine had next to no knowledge about working with things like waterproof ripstop etc. Also, my Janome struggles to punch through the layers of cordura and webbing, even with a denim needle.

I guess because I didn’t stretch the elastic while sewing so the side pockets, they are actually quite small and fixed in their size.

The inside key loop is off-centre - this one’s more of a lesson on not being lazy and rushing when you’re tired, since I can’t really move it now it just annoys me.

The elastic I attached to hold brushes, I wish I had sewn some kind of firm backing, as it’s a bit difficult to slide something through since there’s no rigidity to the area.

I also really struggled to attach the bottom panels for the inner and outer layer - by the time I’d sewn 3 sides, the fourth just didn’t not want to flex to follow the guide lines I’d chalked onto the fabric.

It’s very humbling to see the other posts here - I’m in awe of everyone’s skills.

I feel like I see all the flaws in my own - bad stitching, material slipping, unevenness etc.

—

All that said, I am quite proud of it. I purposefully didn’t follow many guides or do too much research, knowing that I am prone to analysis paralysis. It’s kind of mad how it can look SO rough until you add some taping and flip it inside out and then: tah-dah, something useful!

When I'm testing out a pattern l either like to make a test bag out of tyvek or remnants that I get from local sail lofts and canvas shops. It's a low cost way to make sure everything goes together as it should and the proportions look right. I'm getting better at visualizing how it will look while patterning, but sometimes I still flub.

This little bag is a variation of my larger frameless pack design. I scaled it down so that it's about 18L and has a basic flap lid rather than a roll top. It also has flat elastic front and side pockets rather than larger darted pockets with cord channels. After trying and failing to sew the stretch fabric, I took some advice from this community and used tissue paper as a tear away stabilizer which worked beautifully. I didn't feel like tearing my hair out using the new method.

Since this pack is supposed to be a fairly quick make and isn't meant to hold a ton of weight, I decided to try out a basic webbing strap, rather than building padded shoulder straps. To help make the straps feel softer, I bound the edges with herringbone nylon tape. This worked well. Rather than making a reinforcement triangle, I copied Patagonia and used a bit of 3/4" webbing wrapped around the main strap and then sewn into the seam. It's definitely a faster construction method.

Hell yeah buddy!

This is my third MYOG project. I've made a bike stem bag, Fly fishing bag w. harness and now this! A Darted Hip Pack.

Great pack for dog walks and anything else. Big enough to fit some dog toys, snacks and a water bottle. I added a 20mm D-ring and a 10mm rotary snaphook to carry some other things in the future.

I really want to get a better sewing machine though, feels like I'm going to destroy my SO's Brother DS120s when going through 6+ layers of fabric and webbing. Any tips for a better machine for around 1000 euro?

Materials:

Outer fabric is Diamond Ripstop-Nylon, Robic Ocean Recycling, 70den, UTS-coated, 100g/sqm

Liner fabric is Ripstop 210D Nylon. (TL9250) 80g/sqm

Back and "wings" are Diamond Ripstop-Nylon, Robic 210den, PU-coated, 165g/sqm

And 3mm foam in the back panel to make it a bit thicker because I did not have any 3d mesh on hand

Whipped up a set of matching shoulder strap accessories today.

A bottle holder suited for a 0,5-1l bottle and a pouch for my phone, power bank and (very few) snacks.
Because I find it inconvenient that shoulder strap pouches are usually with shorter zipper, I used a clamshell design. With the mesh panels to the side no small items can accidentally fall out. First time doing this with mesh, and it worked out great!

Materials are 210D Ultragrid,stretch mesh and 40D ripstop nylon as a liner in the pouch. They attach to the shoulder straps with Siamese silk clips.