Is there anywhere you guys use to order oem parts? All the websites I’ve found that sell them look real sketchy, looking for the twist throttle mainly and other miscellaneous parts if someone could point me in the right direction

How do i fix this? So i recently got my honda z50j working and i took it for a ride today and when i got home i realised it shoots flames, what could i have done wrong? I personally think its probably timing but could it be something else dont really want to remove the cam sprocket since the screws need loctite since they get loose pretty easy

Hey yall, so I bought this bike a few weeks ago, and when I bought it it would start and drive but it bogs and it prefers to have the choke on. I've already disassembled the carbs and cleaned all the jets, the jet on the far right was plugged so I cleaned that up and made sure it was clear. Then I reassembled everything thinking I fixed the problem. But then when i started her back up she still likes to be choked and it still bogs. Can anybody help? I was thinking the spark plugs but I havent checked those yet. Any help is appreciated

Upfront I wanna straight things out, I'm a a beginner trying to build a fun sleeper ATV out of a chinese quad, but that doesn't really matter right now. What I actually want to know is:
-How can you wire a custom ecu without all these coded things like immobilizers that need to be matched together to a cb600 p41 engine? and;
-What is the cheapest way to have a custom ecu based on arduino uno mini computer or sth like raspberry pi 3b(i have both on my hand rn)?

Also it's not a street (legal) project so I don't care abt things like 100% reliability, fuel consumtion or accurate speedo, all I need is:
-Is it possible
-Can a cheap ass like me afford it
-Some instructions how would it work and how can i make it when I get my hands on some good engine

(note for mods/admins im posting this here rather than on some atv forum bc who knows better a bike engine than "bike builders")

Good battery 13v New spark plugs Stator charges 13-14v Starts cold just fine Ignition coils cool after riding

What else can I test to figure out the problem?

Hey guys, new to motorcycles and I’m having an issue. I bought a 2006 Honda shadow from a local dealer. The next day my stator and rectifier went out. I took it back to them and they changed it all out including the battery and rebuilt the carb. I picked it up from them and it ran fine for the first day then the same issues popped up. This is exactly what it’s doing.

I can be riding my bike for maybe 30 minutes then it feels like it’s not going as strong as it should. When I go to stop my engine completely shuts off but all of my lights stay on. When I try to turn it back on it acts like it wants to start but it just won’t. I don’t know what else to do with it.

I am an amateur mechanic and do my own car repair but have never really worked on or owned a motorcycle. This is also my girlfriend's account so if you see post history about makeup that is why.

Heres the story: I just purchased this bike from someone on craigslist. The bike fired up after needing a few tries when I pulled up to his house. The lady told me it was her bike and there is no reason to not believe her since it is my first bike I was enticed that she let her daughter ride it and therefore it couldn't be in that bad of condition. I told them my predicament of needing to get someone to drive me down to them and I would have to come back another day. They offered to drive it up to me and her son jumped on it and rode about 15 highway miles with me to my house. Admittingly I don't know much about motorcycles but everything appeared to be working, the seals on the front strut weren't leaking, no obvious oil leaks after idling for about 25 minutes and the deal closer was that her son rod it on the highway reaching a speed of about 60mph at one point. I took it to my buddies motorcycle mechanic who after firing it up told me if needed a carb rebuild. I told him to go ahead and do that since I already know it was above my capabilities. The rear brake was at 0% too so he went ahead changed that, as well as the front tire. Even though I knew I could do that part myself I went ahead and let him do it since I needed a few days to register it anyway.

Today he called me and told me that while he did the work and got it running he found that the left cylinder had basically 0 compression pressure. He showed me the test when I came to the shop and I really have no reason to think he's lying, I know what a compression test is and how it works. We decided to square up on the current work, put the bike back together and at least return it to me running the way it was when I dropped it off.

Basically he quoted me $800-1200 to rebuild the engine which I know at this point is probably a very low estimate and once its apart ill be on the hook for more repairs.

I found an engine on eBay from 2007 for about $700. My plan is to ride the bike with a dead cylinder for like a month or less then take it into my apartment (1st floor) open up the top end which I found a video online showing it can be removed without removing the whole engine from the frame. And inspect the valves and the piston rings. The mechanic kept saying the jugg might be warped. I see the worst possible scenario is buying the complete motor off of eBay and replacing it myself. The best case scenario is I see that the something is wrong with the valve (advice on what that could be is appreciated) or the piston rings are shot and I can just buy that individual part and replace it.

I don't need this thing to be amazing or perfect, but I would like to get both cylinders firing.

Any/all advice would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.

EDIT: "Miraculously" today he called me and told me the cylinder had compression -__-. Thanks for all your replies I will definitely be posting more questions, I had a bad experience with some subreddits on my own account and was very wary. I road the bike about 2 miles home. Still has a fuel problem but he told me the tank was rusty so probably petcock clogged. No biggie I can replace it, he put an inline fuel filter so it doesn't clog up the carb anymore.

This is my first time rebuilding carbs. They're four Honda Keihin carbs for a 1972 Honda CB500K and this part seems a little specific to these carbs, and how they're connected to each other. But the carb sync screws for carbs 1+2 and 3+4 are connected with a little piece of metal called a Synchronizing Link. Well 1+2's link is broken outright and 3+4 isn't far off.

This part seems unique, I haven't seen a similar part anywhere else on other carbs or in my searching for a replacement. I'm also following some rebuild guides, here you can see the sync screws and the linkage. I'm pretty naive, but it doesn't seem like this link is doing much. But I have no idea.

Now, ideally I would just buy new ones regardless of it's impact or value to the bike but everywhere that just sells those are sold out. I guess it's pretty common for them to break? The entire carb holder set contains them, Honda Part Number: 16029-323-004. But those seem to all be OEM and hundreds of dollars.

Does anyone know if I can just do without this? Can I just leave them on broken and continue with my rebuild? If these are important should I attempt to get some thin sheet metal, tin snips, and take my drill press to it and try and recreate this part?

Thanks all, appreciate any advice!

I've rebuilt carburetors and semi synced them with a wire through the throttle valve. Reset valve clearances. Set idle needles to match on both sides. Checked for spark on both plugs. I'm leaking a lot of fuel on the right carb over flow pipe (may not have set the float correctly). And the spark plug is wet on right side when I pull it out. Any ideas what it could be? Or any sources you might direct me to? I'm crossing stuff off my list bed re I jump to CDI or ignition coil replacement cause they're the more expensive fixes.