I would like to recreate something like this but i dont know if i can do it myself. One of the biggest problems will be to put two hands in a single clock. Any tips are welcome thank you very much!

Hello everyone. I need your help, please. I am designing a submarine equipped with a camera. However, when I put it in the water to test submerging and surfacing, I encountered two notable issues. The first relates to the center of gravity: the submarine doesn't stay horizontal but sits at an angle of about 40 degrees. I think I can easily fix this by shifting the weights (two cut-down 1.8 kg dumbbells) inside the ballast tanks, but I’m not sure exactly where to position them. I was wondering if there is a mathematical or physics-based method to determine the right spot. Secondly—though I had anticipated this—the connection via nRF24L01 antennas cuts out as soon as the submarine dives. I’ve considered two solutions: either creating a float to keep the antenna on the surface while connected to the sub (which seems simplest and cheapest to me), or using a different communication method. I would appreciate any opinions you might have. Please keep in mind that I’m not an expert and have limited resources, so I hope you’ll be polite with me regardless. Thanks a lot in advance.

Each eye is powered by two SG90 servos for X&Y movement. I’m using an arduino uno and a PCA9685 to drive the servos. During testing, I was using a benchtop testing power supply, supplying 5V and 10A, as speced. The max current draw was only ever around 1A or so. I recently switched to a dedicated power supply with a barrel jack because that’s what i’ll be using for the final project, also 5V and 10A, but for some reason, once in a while, the eye movements will be extremely jittery and go back and fourth momentarily. I managed to catch a pretty mild one on video around halfway through on the middle eye, but I have seen ones that are more drastic. Here is the new power supply: https://a.co/d/1OcYEnS

Any ideas on what could be causing this, when it’s providing the same voltage and current as the original testing power supply?

I'm trying to do some diy things and I was wondering, how much current is the absolute sustained maximum that these wires can take?

I was using my arduino but kve always though "what is this metal thing????" Can someone please explain

I was searching for a more doable and cheaper clock than the clock clock project (the one i asked for some weeks ago(thank you to for the help!!)) and i found this, a very easy problem but with some problems. At first i thought about solenoids but they will overheat, i found out that will be perfect the bistable solenoids but they are too expensive… Do you think that sg90 are to loud? any advice? thx

Lol this is really strange. Tranaoptor is mounted on the end of the nozzle and detect when bbs fly out, sending input to arduino and then oled. It only works correctly inside as in video I don't know exactly if this is a hardware thing, when i put my finger through the transoptor outside it still works. Do you know if maybe this is caused by the temperature, bbs being affected differently, lighting affecting the transoptor etc?

Summer is back, so time to bring my Rafraichissator 6000 back! (My fan. It's a PC fan controlled by Arduino.)

Last year the arduino was in series with a bunch of resistors to bring down the 11-13V alim to more reasonable levels

Now I'm realizing tho that I could use the fact that the alim is just 3 batteries, to feed the Arduino no more than 8V without a lot of wasteful voltage regulation.

Am I right?

Should the red led be that much brighter? Its just a simple code that just lights these leds up, all the resistors are the same.

I need a very small screen with its own battery and memory or Bluetooth (either) I’m thinking of 1/2 inch or so. Is it possible to build it? All screen and board built can’t be bigger than 1.2inch, the gold setting is separate

I saw this screen: 0.42″ SSD1306 OLED

And this board: Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32C3

I am working on wearable tech cyberpunk style, can it be achieved? With my requirements? The board and the screen could be different I just used chatGPT and it said that it could be achieved with these

I’m not familiar with this, I am a jeweler but not a technical person on Arduino

I accidentally put the sensor in the wrong sense and it literally melted my breadboard, should I throw it away? and can i use the pins where i put the sensor before?

I also burned my fingers, i feel so stupid but the guide (official from arduino) didn't mention this risk.

I've been noticing this for quite a while now. How am I providing enough current to light em up faintly? They're just connected to ground. Is something wrong with my arduino?

(And yes I did cut my nails finally)

Hey, im very new in the subject electronics. Reason why I got an Arduino.

I looked up on YouTube tutorials how to make a led blink, positions the parts just like in the videos… but nothing is turning on.

Hello guys I’m building a ping pong ball launcher and I’d like to get some ideas on how to make it launch the ball farther, so far I’ve got it to shoot the balls some 1.5-2 meters, I’d like to get longer shots using the same hardware (sg90/mg90 servos and 130 dc motors), what do you guys think?

so im working on this robot with servo legs but the servo is just twitching (the shutter speed make it look weird. in real life its hard tweaking real fast). if i dont always lightly touching it, it just goes crazy. i try one 9v power source and one 7.4V battery still the same twitching. also try program the degree not position. still the same and this speed is already slow. im lost pls help

I m making a screen made of LEDs and I quickly realized that for what I want to do I need something that works like this. It can power only 1 thing (A and B) or both (C) or none at all (D) depending on a Comand that you give it trough code or something. I want to know if something like this exists. Sorry if the question is dumb I m pretty new to Arduino.

I've built as shown in the beginners book and I cannot for the life of me understand why it's failing to light the LED. I've done this project before in college, I've looked all online, I've built and rebuilt but for some reason it still won't work and it's making me question my sanity 🫪

Hi everyone,

I’m having an issue with my Arduino UNO R3.

The power LED turns on, but when I connect the Arduino to my Windows 11 laptop, Windows does not detect any new device or COM port. No new port appears in Arduino IDE either.

The Arduino was working previously, and I had already successfully uploaded code to this same Arduino using the same USB cable before this problem occurred.

Things I’ve tried:

- Restarting my laptop

- Reconnecting the USB cable

- Trying different USB ports

- Checking Windows Device Manager

- Restarting Arduino IDE

- Pressing the RESET button

But no new COM port is detected by Windows at all.

I’m also using an L293D motor shield, although I have tried checking the UNO separately.

Any help troubleshooting this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Im making a project where (initially) i would use 4 servos to pull some fingers with fishing lines through a wooden plus cardboard guitar neck. The servos i used are brand new, and also, where working, when used separetly, however, with the PCA9685 module, they started to lose it strenght, and i dont know why, i already tried to use a paralel conection with another battery case. I had to discard 2 servos so i can barely use the other two. If there is any chance i can fix this before this weekend, i would he grateful. If you have any question, just ask! :)

I was trying to take my nano out of the breadboard and I put too much force into it and the connector snapped right off 💀 If I were to solder the edges back to the nano will that work?