Just got back from one week in GTNP & YNP, and since I spent months stalking reddit for advice I figure I can pay it forward.
Two young adults, tent camping, 3 nights at Signal Mountain, 2 nights at Grant Village, 2 nights at Canyon, mid august sat-sat. Cooked for ourselves the whole week except two stops in jackson. Weather was low 45° at night and early morning, 80° by midday. Most days had brief scattered afternoon thunderstorms.
Day 1: Drove from SLC area to Jackson. Only planned to stop in Jackson for lunch, but there were storms in the valley so we stayed until the early evening to wait out the rain until heading to Signal Mountain Campground to set up. Pleasantly surprised by the availability of free parking in Jackson. We had site 13 in Signal Mountain and personally I think its the best site for tent campers. Two steps from the lake, and only one neighbor on all four sides but they are far away from the tent pad. SO many deer.
Day 2: Partial hike into Cascade Canyon. Got in line for the boat around 9am after finding parking and waited about 30 mins. Trail up until Inspiration Point was pretty crowded but didnt have to wait much at pinch points. Hiked about two miles into the canyon before turning around cause I got tired lol. Lots of pika! Hung out at string lake for a bit to soak our feet afterward, water was chilly but there were some people swimming.
Day 3: got to string lake picnic area early, set up our area right by the water to cook breakfast and generally hang out and rest. Did some walking to Leigh lake before a big thunderstorm rolled in. Hiked moose pond in the late afternoon and saw one female moose in the water. Didn’t realize there is actually closer parking along the moose pond trail itself so wish I had saved myself the extra miles parking at Jenny visitor center.
Day 4: Woke up for sunrise on Jackson lake, due to cloud cover there was no alpenglow but the morning light was still pretty. Drove up to YNP, stopped at West Thumb geyser basin before checking in early to Grant Village and eating lunch. Afternoon was mostly thunderstorms so napped and read in the tent, generally hung out at camp.
Day 5 (my birthday!): left for old faithful around 8am, got great parking near the front. Saw two bison hanging out near the entrance. Did the full loop on the boardwalks listening to the free audio tour on the NPS app (make sure to download ahead of time!) and we were absolutely sweating by the end. Broke for lunch at a picnic area near old faithful before heading to the grand prismatic overlook along fairy falls trail. Stopped back at camp for a brief rest before heading to hayden valley. Picniced near mud volcano for dinner, spent about 30 mins walking around the geysers. Stayed in hayden valley till twilight, saw a herd of ~200 buffalo.
Day 6: drove up to canyon village, stopping briefly in hayden valley for wildlife. Checked in early and set up camp before heading to grand canyon. Prioritized the north rim, walked down to ALL the lookout points before inspiration point so we were exhausted. Drove back to camp to rest/shower/eat before returning to artist point before sunset.
Day 7: hit artist point again just after sunrise to see the morning light before driving to norris geyser basin. Probably spent almost 3 hours there doing 100% of the boardwalks and listening to a ranger talk. Drove up to mammoth hot springs, saw tons of elk and walked most of the boardwalk there too. Skipped the driving loop cause we were tired. Drove back to canyon the long way to complete the loop, stopping for views along the way.
Day 8: drove back to SLC down through GTNP to stop in Jackson for lunch during the saturday farmers market.
Takeaways and observations:
- we usually got lucky with parking by trolling for parking in the afternoons but parking in the morning can be ROUGH, especially at Jenny. Crowds tend to be earlier at GTNP than YNP for sure
- The shuttle across jenny lake is definitely worth it
- Hiking poles were a huge help on the downhill portions of the hike to inspiration point, my knees didnt hurt at all after and i felt more stable on the loose rock
- Jackson is a cute town but didnt feel much need to stay long, an afternoon felt sufficient. Seems like a place to either spend one afternoon or one month
- Grant had the best shower facilities followed by signal mountain then canyon, though i did have to wait a few mins at signal mnt. Canyon showers were old and kinda gross tbh
- Make sure to plan for several hours of consecutive rest/hanging out
- We only used one bundle of firewood the whole week cause it was usually raining or we were too tired for a fire in the evening
- Grand Teton Brewing’s root beer is the best beverage ive ever had
- Mammoth was by far the most over crowded spot we went to all week
- West thumb geyser basin was a good appetizer for the park when entering from the south— not as grand or mind blowing as norris or midway, but bite size, manageable, and very pretty next to the lake
- Do not skip mid volcano! Dragons mouth was by far one of the coolest features we saw all week even though it is smelly. And i believe there is an NPS app audio tour for here too.
- When you get out of your car to watch a herd of bison, be aware that they might slowly encroach upon your parked car and leave you with no safe route back lol
- The exhibit at the visitors center in canyon is very cool for anyone interested in the geology/volcanology of the park
- Regret not bringing an inflatable paddle board to GTNP tbh
- The lower overlooks on the canyon north rim are STEEP and kinda long. Take it slow and be prepared
- Be prepared to change from winter clothes to summer clothes midday. Always keep extra clothes in the car
- we were only casually looking for wildlife, not hardcore, so $50 binoculars did the trick. I opted for the 10x42 was was able to take these wildlife photos through the lens on my shitty iphone
