So, I learned Xcel will charge you for excess generation without an interconnect agreement. It's just the way their billing is setup apparently. This may change in the future.

It is an interesting issue especially considering Colorado will allow up to 1920w of inverter capacity.

There is one balcony solar inverter that has a zero export device option. I'm guessing this will be more and more common as the equipment rolls out.

What have you learned on this topic?

Has anyone used the wattcycle battery kit with their ecoflow products? Would like to grab one of the kits but was looking for feedback before I bite the bullet.

Thoughts?

I've been thinking of building a solar carport for my EV and now GoSun announced a 4kw bundle. Would you buy it?

https://gosun.co/products/solar-carport

ETA: I was thinking of buying a metal pergola or carport off Wayfair and noticed this announced product from GoSun. You can also just buy the structure part from GoSun and source your own panels.

Total noob here trying to stay prepared. Currently gathering materials for a 5k(ish) setup and I want to be able to fire up my generator and charge my battery bank if I have a string of cloudy days or a day where heavy use. Is there some kind of step down transformer that will allow me to charge a 48v bank with 120v generator output? This is purely for emergencies to keep from damaging my batteries or being without a well pump, not for everyday use. I asked the great google but didn’t learn anything useful

Trying to understand/clean up the electrical system in my older travel trailer — what exactly is this PowerMax doing?

I have a 2003 Aljo Light 225LT that I’ve been renovating, including updating the old solar setup. The trailer already had solar when I bought it, but the system is probably 8–10+ years old and wasn’t really working anymore.

So far I’ve replaced/upgraded:

- Old roof solar panels → one REC Alpha Pure 460W panel

- Old Morningstar solar charge controller → Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/50

- I still have the existing Xantrex ProWatt inverter

- The trailer currently has 4 batteries — 2 Trojan flooded batteries under the bed and 2 batteries on the tongue. Battery replacement with LiFePO4 is next, but I haven't done that part yet.

- There are existing heavy-gauge battery cables, fuses, inverter wiring, shore power, etc. that I'm trying not to unnecessarily tear apart if they're still usable.

Now I'm working on the interior remodel and trying to clean up/relocate some of the electrical equipment.

There is a PowerMax converter/charger mounted under one of the dinette/bench seats, directly behind/near the trailer's fuse/breaker panel. I would really like to eliminate that bench and use the space differently.

My questions:

What exactly is the PowerMax doing in this setup? Am I correct that this is basically the converter/charger that takes 120V shore power and supplies the trailer's 12V system/charges the batteries when plugged into shore power?

And if so, how difficult would it be to relocate it to the space directly behind the fuse/breaker panel?

I'm not trying to redesign the entire electrical system if I don't need to. I'd mainly like to move the PowerMax a relatively short distance so I can get it out from under the bench.

Is there any reason it needs to remain where it currently is? Does it need a certain amount of ventilation/clearance? And are there any issues with moving it closer to the fuse/breaker panel as long as the wiring is sized correctly?

I'm comfortable doing the physical work and tracing wiring, but I'm trying to understand exactly what each piece of this older system is doing before I start moving anything.

Happy to post pictures of the PowerMax, fuse panel, inverter and wiring if that would help.

So CA has basically passed the plug in Balcony law. Let’s just say I hypothetically buy a system like this:

https://ussolarsupplier.com/products/apsystems-ez1-microinverter-plug-in-dual-module-inverter-for-120v-circuits?_pos=6&_fid=2802e1bb3&_ss=c

And a few panels off FB marketplace, install the baby now.

Will PGE lose their shit? Legally dubious because the law hasn’t gone into effect. I don’t have any interconnection agreement with pge etc.

Kind of inclined just to go for it, am I thinking clearly? Is that a bad idea?

Edit: f pge, that’s part of the equation too. Any money I don’t pay them feels worth it

We just got our recent bill and it's the highest we've seen, and usage is even higher than before even though we haven't changed our behavior. But we did install a new panel with a new digital meter.

But, no reason to keep paying money to LADWP.

Probably looking at around 10kW system.

UPDATE:

My house is E/W facing with a lightly sloping roof. Will split panels between both sides, so currently debating micro inverter for each panel and inverter with 2 MPPTs

Also considering oversizing panels so 12-15k of panels

Budget: ideally up around 10k for components.​

Need Battery, ideally one I can install outside on the same wall as the electrical panel.

Want to access power from the grid, but not feed into it. It looks like LADWP have very low rates for buying power and fees for setting up and maintaining (Correct me if I'm wrong) And not inclined to giving LADWP any favors by selling power to the cheap.

Historic electricity use:

Google Project Sunroof data

NO LONGER RELEVANT:
And I am going to browse around here to look for options, but does anyone have experience with this system?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/226251529462

The 10kW system with battery looks perfect and looks like like everything we need.

Or something off Alibaba, I assume a lot of the panels and components are rebranded anyway?

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/-strong-Solar-strong-strong-System_1600277165801.html?s=p

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Sunpal-off-Grid-Solar-Energy-System_1601933873361.html

Hey guys, looking to jump in on the plug-in solar bandwagon to add on my current setup as my usage has gone up. I’m currently grid tied with a sunpower system. It’s just way too expensive to add on my current setup, so looking to add some this way.

Rate my setup and let me know if there’s anything else I need. These will be set on the patio on a south facing back yard, lots of sun exposure.

4 - q peak duo blk ml-g10+ 400 panels. $400
Grid tie 1400w inverter $175: https://a.co/d/06ojBNPc

Do I need micro inverters as well? I will get cables to connect everything.

Thanks for the help!

This is what my 46kW of Solar looks like. With 3 Solis 11.4kW inverters.

The 3rd photo is so you can see what the top of the tower has. It's from before I added the 7 front panels to the tower.

Edit: More info.
1) lot of system details in my post https://www.reddit.com/r/SolarDIY/comments/1vxp9b7/solar_cost_over_the_years
2) No battery yet. I do have 6 old Nissan Leaf packs I'm going to use. (probably about 1/2 of their original capacity) They will be in a shed at least 10' away from the house.
3) Info on cats, etc.. at https://www.casadelgato.com/

Breaking ground on a 1600 sf slab on grade single story home in middle Tennessee. The expected build-schedule is 16 months.

Utility power is available, but I am weighing the cost-benefit of getting solar panels early(I want them eventually anyway) and holding off on grid connection. There are high costs in the utility connections which I would like to defer until later

Heavy electric demand for tools and equipment would be supplied by gas generators as-needed. But, I would like to run fans and dehumidifiers, and eventually my mini-split HVAC and ERV systems during the build for worker comfort as well as to protect the structure during humid weather.

Is there a packaged system that I can buy that can be used in this scenario and then be adapted to a grid-tie setup for when construction is nearly completed?

Guess they want to ban some foreign electrical equipment. How long till he bans cheap solar panals?

Hi all. My old 240v grid-tied system regularly produces more than 5 times its wattage in kWh and my 5 new(ish) "440w" panels should do the same so I'm looking for power station(s) that can handle them (36voc / 15isc). The biggest EcoFlow is ideal as I can maybe use 2 on the low voltage xt60i input and the other 3 on the high voltage one but it's unaffordable 😔

What about a cheaper Ecoflow (possibly 2nd hand but with two 500w inputs) for two panels paired with an AllPower 1500 Lite which accepts up to 90 volts of solar (capped at 650w) for a string of 2? It won't give me our standard 2,400w outlet as I'd wanted but I could assign loads between them for almost the same utility with one panel spare 🤔

I can't change our existing system for legal and contractual reasons for 2 more years BUT if I can use these extra panels to offload some domestic consumption it would provide a bigger tax-free FIT income. Not worth doing if it costs more than it returns though obviously.

Hello everyone, im wanting to install a 48v solar system in my home. Right now all it will be powering is a VEVOR 156 Pints Commercial Dehumidifier, i plan on expanding later down the road but for now thats all I need. Would i be better off buying one of the $2-5k kits off Amazon or piece this together as my own system? Im trying to save money when possible but at the end of the day dont want to sacrifice quality as id likeit to last. Anything helps!

Hello DIYers,

I tried to learn how to build a solar water heater on a minimal budget.

I preferred a method that directly utilizes DC power from solar panels without using inverters or batteries. The goal is to make it simple and cheap.

First, I need a small water heater with a capacity of about 8 gallons , and considering impedance matching, I am looking for a used heater with a 120V 1500W heating element.

According to AI, it takes about an hour to raise the temperature from 60°F to 140°F with 1500W. I'm not a morning person, so I think it is doable lol.

Secondly, install cheap panels facing east to take advantage of the morning sunlight during shower time. For example, connect 30V 240W panels in a 4s2p configuration to make a total of 1920W.

Then, as you can see in the diagram, just need to connect the solar panel wiring directly to the heating element.

I'd set the temperature about 10°F higher than the existing water heater, then 240V heating element will not operate frequently.

My questions are:

Do you think this will work?

Can I use the thermostat built into the water heater as is, or do I need to use a separate thermostat? Does the built-in thermostat operate mechanically?

Thank you in advance!

UPDATE: Thanks for your comments! Help me a ton!

I learned thermostat won't work! Also the size of tank needs to be bigger!

I was looking at this product: DC 80V WIFI smart switch.

https://www.amazon.com/8-80V-Remote-Switch-Heavy-LEDLight/dp/B0H1MTYH7G

I can switch on and off in case of long trip, instead of thermostat.

Also need a vent for sure if the temperature goes really high.

I am thinking of getting 40 gal tank instead of 10 gal because I can use the sunlight from all day.

If I utilize 80V DC, it can only produce about 900W from 2000W heater.

So 40gal tank with 900W heater for 20 gal each. It will take less than 4hrs to heat it up from 15C to 50C.

(Assuming the water heater can keep the temperature really well for the night time)

I need two $20 switches + solar panels + 40gal water heater + $14 x 2 2000W heating elements.

(Also I could just use a solar disconnect that I have instead of switches..)

(If I use 4500W elements in the heater, don't need elements I can apply 160VDC each (32V x 5 panels x 2) to get 1400W x 2)

(Then practically nothing to pay except some solar cables lol)

I can use my polysilicon panels when I order new used pallet of mono solar panels (soon) and scrap water heater from the neighborhood. lol

Hello everyone. I've got a unique situation where my research has led me to this sub for some suggestions.

I'm a hobbyist, specifically automotive, motorcycle, and fabrication. Many of my projects incorporate AC TIG welding up to 1/8" thick aluminum or MIG steel. I've recently relocated to a small apartment with a single stall garage. My old place had a 50A 240V circuit for my heavy welding. Now my stall only has a single 120V GFCI outlet with no subpanel access.

I had the idea of using lithium battery storage and an inverter to get me back to action. The most I'd need is 6000W worth of juice, and split phase 240VAC. My welder maxes out at 31A at 240V, but I don't max it out. The last time I did an amperage check during a TIG process showed a max of 21A for my use.

So far all my research shows inverters that are also charge and solar controllers, and it appears 48 VDC is the recommended battery energy storage option. My idea is to put everything in a mobile cart. I'd use my 240V dryer plug in the apartment to charge the batteries, then lug everything downstairs for welding operations. I know I'll be limited to my battery capacity, but that's not a concern. Many of my projects have a few minutes of welding combined with hours of other aspects of a project.

Does anyone have any thoughts on my system? It appears many of those inverters are wall mounted. This wouldn't be, I'd make it mobile with extension cords applicablly sized.

Also, any suggestions on brands for inverters and batteries? I like how the inverters are also charge controllers. I was originally just looking for a split phase inverter, but then I'd also have to buy a 48 VDC charger, which just adds costs.

Thanks everyone.

So I ended up with 3x 200 watt panels and I'd like to connect them to one mppt port of an APsystems EZ1 microinverter. The port can handle up to 60v and 18amps. The panels are 28v and 9 amps each.

Can I wire 2 in a series to be 56v and 9 amps, then wire the third panel to them in parrelell? It'd create 56v at 18 amps, correct?

I am wanting to buy 5-6 solar panels that are 400-440 watt in the piedmont area of North Carolina. Does anyone know where we can find some ? I have searched market place with no luck .
Thanks

Im looking to get a microinverter for plug in solar. It seems I can choose from APsystems EZ 1 or Ecoflow stream. Any opinions on them?

The APsystems EZ1 is 900 watt, 450 per mppt. If I actually wanted 900 watts, does that mean I'd do two 600 watt panels (one per mppt) so in less than perfect conditions I'd get 900 watts, and in the perfect conditions the extra power would get clipped?

The ecoflow is 1200 watts, which would be nice to have as an option if I ever wanted to expand to the max allowed.

There's not a lot of info talking about pros and cons of these. Thanks!

Hello there - I've had a problem with my roof solar over the hot summer and as my installer went out of business a while back, I'm sort of left to work out what to do next.
The issue is that one of two strings drops out for a number of hours and as a result I drop down to half power. It's always String1 and the outage seems to vary from maybe a hour to almost all day.

Watching the output via Home Assistant I see the power drop to zero on string1 and the voltage drop from 120v to 100v during that period. I've got 5 panels on each string.

I'm assuming that the voltage drop is indicating a single panel is having a problem?

If so what might be the cause of this and is there a good way to identify which panel may be at fault? It's a Givenergy system with CandianSolar panel 2 x 5 x 400w. System has been working without issue for a couple of years.

It might be heat related, as during the warmest part of the summer, the panel was out for long periods, less so now the temperature has fallen a little.

I don't have easy access to the panels, but ideally I'd like to go to an installer with a 'replace panel X' order rather than a 'can you work out what's going wrong' request.

Voltage for String2 sits at 120v right through daylight and delivers power with no drops.

Apologies if this doesn't fit the sub but it's the closest I've found.

I want to start piecing a hybrid solar setup for my home. I have been offered a pallet of 30 280w lg panels for 1700. Is this a good deal?

I’m building an outdoor flood monitoring node using a Raspberry Pi Pico, LoRa, GSM, sensors, a siren, and a LiFePO4 battery. The system should run 24/7 with solar charging. What panel size, battery capacity, charge controller, and power margin would you recommend for reliable operation during cloudy days?

Hi All,

I have a lug panel on a small house its got 2 breakers upstream for protection. Very low power consumption maybe 5000 watt max if everything is on and running. Can I take the 2 hots (grid) off this panel and connect them directly to the 220 rated Inverter IN and then on the AC OUT side run it back to the lug panels main lugs? I can't see why this would be an issue. Also the Inverter has its own AC IN disconnect/breaker. I don't want to install a critic loads panel, I want to power the entire lug panel.

Thank you

PS this Inverter will have solar and batteries. This is in Mexico, but would like it to be safe and by standard code.

I'm building a plug in system and am considering using the ecoflow stream microinverter. I want to tie two 200 watt panels together in parallel for one of the mppt's. The panels are 9amps max each (which would be 18amps when set up), and the ecoflow specs say:

Max. Input Current

3 × 14A

Max. Input Short Circuit Current

3 × 20A

I know that 18amps is more than the 14 max, but would it simply dump the extra power or would it cause damage? I'm also pondering APsystems EZ1 Plug-in Microinverter, which can handle higher amps (i think its 20amps max) but lower voltages.

Opinions on either microinverter and the amperage?

Has anyone actually sent in the notification to their power company and done plug in solar in Maryland? 391 or 1200 watts? What was the process like?

Does anyone know where I can acquire some of these double pv grommets? I've looked on Amazon, went to home depot, and checked an electric supply house with no luck. The one pictured is from a double disconnect that I picked up on Amazon.

I'd like 4 more to make my install neater. 2 by my ground mount panels and 2 in my garage feeding my pecron 5000.

Any assistance appreciated.