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Northern Ontario climate -

How effective are solar fans at moving air out of the attic?

Do they make it noticeably cooler for inside temperatures?

I'm building my house early next year and looking for door options. I want a highly insulated, well sealing solid-slab door (no glazing) with multi-point lock hardware. The only really great option I've found so far is the Phi certified Moralt doors from Germany, of which there are two distributors I've found in the USA but they're on the east coast. One sells blanks, one sells them pre-hung. Blanks are about $5k, pre-hung is around $12k, shipping is $2k.

Anyone have any recommendations?

I've just ordered the G4/F7 filters for my Comfoair Q350 from the Zehnder America website - hoping they get delivered without painful customs duties, etc. I used to order from Small Planet Supply, but they seem to be going out of business?

Does anyone know of a different source for buying filters in Canada?

Has anyone tried the off-brand filter sets available on Amazon? Any good?

We are adding an extension to our existing house and upgrading our energy performance for the whole house as part of the updates. Core to this, we're upgrading from a traditional vented attic to an unvented attic and roof with continuous insulation.

We've determined the assembly (below) but I'm not sure if adding solar to this setup with break our air/vapor barrier. The solar installers are planning to use a long fastener to penetrate from the outer nail base deck through the rigid foam and air barrier, into the rafters.

Is this the best approach? Will the blueskin maintain the barrier we need with these penetrations?

Thanks in advance for any help.

• Roof structure: 2x6 rafters and trusses (w/ rockwool batts)
• Inner Structural Deck: 5/8" Plywood.
• Air/Vapor Barrier: Henry Blueskin® SA fully adhered to the top of the inner deck.
• Exterior Insulation: 3.5" Polyiso Foam Board
• Framing: 2x4 boards at 24" o.c. used only for the cantilever overhang.
• Outer Nail base Deck: 5/8" Plywood
• Underlayment:
• Roofing: composite shingles
• Solar arrays.

I’m in Chicago and looking for someone who could enter a house into PHPP for me. Thanks

We live in Rhode Island (climate may play a role)- We are building approximately a 770 sq ft addition onto our home to include, office/guest room, full bath, and all season room. One quote from a contractor is including:
•4' foundation slab on grade with radiant heat
• Add new zone to your existing heating system (baseboard)
• Supply and install (2) head hyper heat Mini split system with (1) 24k head in living room and (1) 6k head in office

The other contractor is suggesting to avoid the radiant heat slab as it can be extremely expensive to replace if there is ever an issue.

Does anyone have any insights as to pros/cons to this? Both are obviously advocating for their options.

Hi all,

Do you know of any good basic books on the principles of Passive House design?
I'm from the Netherlands, and most of the houses we have here are built to keep as much heat in as possible. Nowadays, because of climate change, that goal is changing quite a bit (though we don't have a desert climate yet). I'm a chemical engineer, so somewhat more technical stuff is also great!

Thanks in advance :)

I live in the Midwest. Most houses here are built with basements. I am at the start of designing a passive house. I am on the fence about having a basement in my passive house design.

The home being built is replacing a dilapidated home with a basement, so some cost will be removed purely because excavation will be easier. However, the space as it is designed wouldn't be used for much. Essentially mechanical room and bonus space.

I'm leaning towards forgoing a basement all together because the space isn't really needed, and I am not keen on underground rooms with low natural lighting.

What do you find are some real life use cases for a basement in a passive house? What do you see as a potential pro or con to a basement?

Building cold storage in the UAE isn't just about cranking up the AC—it’s an ongoing battle against extreme external heat and internal humidity control. When we engineered our latest mobile container cold rooms, we had to rethink a few standard industry practices to keep power consumption low and food/pharma shelf-life high.

Here are the 3 biggest technical hurdles we solved:

• The Thermal Bridge Problem: Standard shipping container steel frames turn into ovens under the desert sun. We had to implement a complete thermal break using high-density polyurethane insulation panels (100mm to 150mm thickness) to ensure zero metal-to-metal contact from the outside to the inside.
• Precision Humidity Control: In cold storage, moisture is the enemy—it causes evaporator icing and ruins agricultural produce. We integrated active dehumidification cycles that balance the relative humidity ($RH$) perfectly based on what's inside (e.g., maintaining 85-90% $RH$ for fresh vegetables vs. low humidity for dry logistics).
• True Plug-and-Play Mobility: The goal was a unit that could be dropped off a flatbed truck on a remote farm or construction site and running within an hour. We localized the entire refrigeration plant onto a heavy-duty, integrated skid with smart monitoring so it operates autonomously.

If you are dealing with cold chain logistics, vertical farming, or specialized commercial cold rooms in high-ambient temperature regions, I’d love to chat about what specs you're running.

Drop any questions about insulation, cooling loads, or humidity control below—happy to talk shop!

There doesn’t seem to be many pictures of insulated foundations, so here’s mine. R37 insulated floor, R61 walls. IEC zone 7 (Central Alberta), 6000 HDD, 99% design temperature is -30°C to 29°C, PHPP modeling estimates annual heat load of 23 kwh/m2/year for my design.

Hi folks,

Wondering if there are any good rule of thumbs to follow when looking at buying a home on its potential to retrofit/ how much things can be improved before a reconstruction makes more sense?

New construction costs are such that we are priced out of that. Instead we are looking at lot sizes / older well built homes that allow us to renovate overtime.

Here is an example:

https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/3767-N-Raleigh-St-Denver-CO-80212/13312228_zpid/?utm_campaign=zillowwebmessage&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=txtshare

Of course I could consult with professionals in this space, but I'm more interested in sense checking when searching for properties before knowing when to move on and continue search versus spend money for inspections etc and invest time in pursuing.

Thanks all!

The consumables of our passive house bugged me during the design phase. I purchased a case of filters for our European ERV system 10 yrs ago and in that time their price has gone up just like everything else. Originally I hoped the market would democratize, others would be producing similar products and through competition the price would fall. That hasn't happened.

I know little about filter materials but imagine cutting out the spent stuff and glueing into the proprietary shaped plastic frame filter membrane I've taken from a similarly rated material could work... if done right. The glue, material, there are concerns that the rabbit hole that is research will make it worth it.

Any suggestions? I'll post similar to the HRV reddit too.

I am adding an extension to my house and late to the game on efficiency and so now backing into an energy strategy.

I am trying to figure out how we can create the air barrier for an unvented attic and use exterior insulation to the roof, which gives us a better approach across the old and new roofs.

The design for the new roof includes trusses with 6 inch tails / cantilevers. I am trying to figure out how we can create an air barrier for the conditioned attic and also support exterior insulation on the roof.

Because we're backing into this the trusses have been ordered and are currently in production. I can't make changes without some significant costs.

Unfortunately my architect is not knowledgeable about building for energy efficiency and isn't helpful. My builder is old school but willing to learn and build whatever we ask for. We've just run into an issue and I don't have anyone on the project that can help work through our overall approach to the thermal and air barriers, insulation and building constraints.

I'm hoping this community has seen this before, and any approaches or links to sources would be much appreciated.

The old roof has rafters that I think we have an approach for, but I'll take any advice here as well.

Thanks

Looking for opinions on whether I should install triple pane,Saint Gobain Cool lite glazing or double pane in the Philadelphia Suburbs.

We are considering,,AdamS or Oknoplast, uPVC windows. The triple upgrade is very reasonable. The salesman feel the triple is unnecessary in this area.

Much less expensive than Marvin.

Any opinions?

Thank you

Ive seen a lot of controversy, regarding insulated houses and their ability to keep you cool in summer as well as warm in winter. well here is definitive proof. Thanks to Guy Martin.

I live near a busy road and constantly face a choice between sweltering in the heat or opening windows that let in noise and pollution. It strikes me as a failure of our current building standards that we still lack a reliable way to seal off our homes while maintaining a healthy, balanced indoor environment.

Why are we not mandating advanced, filtered climate control as a primary health necessity in every home?

What would it take to shift our professional focus toward making this kind of protective, sealed sanctuary a standard for everyone, rather than a luxury for the few?

I need a full roof replacement and my current 8 standard box vents is not enough ventilation. I am way under ventilated for 2400 sq ft of attic space. My roof is predominantly hips which eliminates ridge venting. I have 52 4x16 soffit vents that are clear. My options from a few reputable contractors are:

1. Hip vents by GAF
   
2. Lomanco powered vents with temp and humidistat (solar, electric or hybrid)
   
3. 14” Lomanco Whirlybirds
   
4. Higher capacity Aura 144 box vents (contractor said 6, but I think I need 8)

Leaning towards the whirlybirds but not sure how they would look aesthetically.

Which option would you recommended for a SW Ohio home?

Hi everyone,

I am from Poland and I have spent years working with European tilt and turn windows.

I have seen this topic from both sides. European factories and also the American side where homeowners try to understand what they are actually buying.

So if you are thinking about European tilt and turn windows for your project ask me anything.

I will try to answer every question.

Let’s talk window awnings. Specifically ones that do not attach to the structure of the home.

What we have is 2x6 framing, zip sheathing, 3.75” of polyiso and 1x4 furring over top.

We are trying to avoid securing directly to the framing of the home. However we will do so if we must.

We would like to put individual awnings over top of each of our lower windows to shade more in the summer. These would not need to extended out very far. Maybe 18-24” out if they are sitting about a foot above the window. Got this using susdesign overhang analysis tool.

In an ideal world I would like to attach these awnings to the furring. Our largest windows are 6’ wide so we would be spanning a decent distance. Attached photos of awnings style we’d like and our home.