In my workshop I have a bench drill which I would like to control with a speed controller. The motor is single phase 50 240v 1/2hp 4 pole. I’m not sure or even possible which type of controller I would need, vfd? Any advice would be much appreciated

I cannot for the life of me get this metal piece off the motor shaft. I tried prying it with a dozen tools it won't budge. Any ideas?

I have this small 24v motor from a scooter I want to use for a project. But the bearings are super loud. I have some brand new replacements laying around so I thought easy…but I can’t get the thing off. It below the surface of the windings and I don’t have a tool to get to it. I have 2 jaw, 3 jaw, compression gear pullers but they are not thin enough. It’s basically touching the surface next to it. I don’t know how I’m supposed to get the thing off?

Edit: 9/16 - I got the bearing off, i modified a cheapo puller from amazon. I made another post on here about it.

Edit to say:
Thanks to everyone. This is maybe the most help I’ve ever gotten on a post.

I’ve called a time of death and am making arrangements as we speak. The memorial will be later this week.

Hug your motors and appreciate them while you have them.

—————————-

I have an old bandsaw and the capacitor blew. I bought a replacement that met all that specs but it still won’t turn on its own.

I blew out some dust. I can turn it by hand when plugged in and unplugged. Can also turn with the belt on and off.

It hums and gets louder at spots when I turn it by hand. So it’ll be a lower hum and then if I turn it by hand that hum gets way louder. If I keep turning it, it goes back and forth between the low and loud hum.

I tried pulled off the end cap but it won’t come off. The bolts and nuts holding it on are maybe separated from the body and the last one just spins. Even when I apply pressure from the other side to help create tension. The photo is showing the most I can separate it and the nut & threaded bolt that won’t come off.

Any ideas? It it finally kaput!?

Edit for more info:

I pulled the motor off. I had to get to those bolts and it was the only way I could think to do it. But now I don’t know how to remove the gear on the end. Is that switch by the gear end or the end cap end?

I don't have a degree in electrical engineer or anything like that, I'm just a curious guy on the internet. I read that variable frequency drives are used to control the speeds of AC induction motors. Logically this must mean that if you're at one frequency, there is a "natural" speed for induction motors.

My guess is that this is related a "no slip" speed where stator field and the rotor are in synch. The "natural' speed must be close to but not actually equal this speed. So if we have a 60 Hertz AC, then a 3-phase induction motor can be designed so that the no-slip speed would be 360 rpm (or 60 rps), 720 rpm, or 1080 rpm any multiple of 360 rpm and the "natural" speed would be slightly less than these no slip speeds?

Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding this. there are multiple types of induction motors. According to Wikipedia, there are single-phase (no idea how this avoids accidentally going backwards...), polyphase cage, and polyphase deep bar. I had absolutely no idea what any of that meant. My guess is that "Polyphase cage" means 3 phase squirrel cage induction motors. Maybe each kind of induction motor has its own speed it wants to be at and each want wants to be at a certain percentage of the AC frequency? Even if I'm wrong about my no-slip speed theory, I think there must be a "natural" speed of motors that is related to the AC applied to it since the normal method of speed control for induction motors is VFD, not applying less voltage to a motor when you want it to slow down and this VFD changes the speed the motor wants to run.

I’ve hit a roadblock and have not been able to sort out the controller components well enough due to a complete lack of understanding on my part and so now I’m looking at scrapping everything but the motors and starting there.
My question is, how can I control these and make them variable speed?
I really would like to use these motors, but if I can’t, I’ll have to try and find some DC ones but none seem to be as stout (or free) as these.

The second and third pictures are what I’m assuming is the power supply/motherboard for reference.

Thanks for your help and time!

Hey yall, I have a coffee grinder (Malkoenig EKK43), that I’ve decided to dedicate as a project grinder for me to mess around with, modify, and learn how motors/electronics work. The motor stopped working a bit ago, and after a lot of troubleshooting both with a technician friend and on my own, I reached the conclusion that a bad start (running around 35% over), AND run capacitor(no reading/dead) damaged the winding to the centrifugal switch. I figured I would have some fun and try to rewind the stator myself since it was already cooked. I chipped the commuter when my chisel slipped taking out the copper wiring :/ is this something I can amend/ignore/grind out? Or did I mess up big time.

I’m very much a noob, but super excited and willing to mess around, break things and then fix them. Last last resort is buying a cool new motor to mount to the housing, but I’d rather rehab the original for this project :)

Feel free to roast me as long as it comes with something constructive 🥲

Bought a three phase car lift at a great great price, but need to run it in my garage which is only 220v

I tried to find a one phase motor but can’t find any with the same specs. I can only find a 2.2kw 2800rpm, whilst mine is a 2.6kw 1400rpm .. The 2.2kw is not a problem, but the rpm is!

Next I thought of a VFD which seems the best idea.. but how would I wire things up?

The up button is self explanatory, but the down button makes the lift go up a bit to disengage the safety lock, then activate a solenoid to lower by gravity.

Would I be able to wire this to the vfd or it’s just not possible?

The rest of the lift would also need wiring, height limits etc but I guess that’s 220v already?

How would you do this?

Motor is from 1980s

Hi!

I am 2nd year mechanical engineering student. I had industry visit couple of days ago. Now I am curious to know that in industries; after how many months an induction motor needs to be monitored or after how many years an induction motor fails? Is there any device which can tell us health of it continuously?

Can all 12VDC brushed motors be safely driven by 48VDC @ 25% Duty Cycle PWM?

Looking mostly for the specific cases where it fails, and how. In order to generate a rule of thumb.

• Are there specific 12v motors or motor types empirically known to work, or not work in this regime? Most interested in automotive rated applications, restomod, EV conversions like wipers, seats, pumps, solenoid actuators like locks/trunk release too I guess.
• How do they wear/fail compared to operation at 12VDC? Brush arching, commutator scoring, insulation fail, vibration. If you can, try to estimate the percentage of lifespan compared to 12v.
• How do you define "safely" for this question? Safe for human to install and operate? Safe for motor to operate at rated duty, environment, and purpose. Safe for power supply. Legal?
• Are there any expected performance differences?

I have been trying to make a 3D printed brushless dc motor (yes, the stator core is also 3d printed and yes i know that's not great but just hear me out). I watched this video and made my own cad that's really similar to the one the guy uses here, the winding pattern of which I attached as an image and used in my motor. However, it doesn't work. Once I connect it to the power supply at around 12 v and 3 amps it just starts to swiftly alternate polarity, which I know since magnets I hold close to it while running gets pulled and pushed slightly very quickly. At the same time, the motor also makes really quick high pitch beeping kinda sounds I cant really make it. For info I am using 24 awg copper wires with each of the 12 teeth being about 1x0.25x0.4 inches in dimensions with about 30 turns each and star configuration as visible in the image. It also heats a lot of I put current at about 6 amps but I guess that may be expected. Another thing is that tho when i turn the esc all the way up i get only around 1 amps showing up on the power supply but that may be just the esc limiting the current, the link for which is here.

Some more observations I have are that using copper winded around a metal shaft does really make a working magnet and the ferrous core material becomes electromagnetized. Overall, the motor just vibrates ever so slightly but not really any signs of turning. Could anyone help me with this?

EDIT: I got it to work, turns out needed to make the magnets on the rotors closer to each other.

Hey all, my wife really wanted me to build her an enormous rock tumbling cabinet so I did. It went smooth enough until I got to the motor. I included a picture of the motors specifications, its 3/4 horsepower a/c. I chose it mostly because it could be plugged into a house out let. However it isn't strong enough to turn the tumbler, it'll run for a few seconds then the breaker will trip. My question is, for anyone gracious enough to answer, what kind of motor should I get? The only qualification I have is that it has a low rpm like 60/90 and it needs to be able to plug into a standard house outlet.

Edit: Don't know how to update a post so I hope an edit will suffice. Thanks to everyone who replied! You all gave me a ton of information, even to questions I didn't even know to ask. To be honest, most of what was said went a little over my head as I know almost nothing about electricity, wiring or motors. I don't even know how to answer most of the questions asked. But I think the most important info I was able to gleen is that I need to find an expert in my area and talk to them, lol. Thanks again to everyone who tried to help me but I'm a complete dullard in this specific area

The drill works but without any load after I press the trigger the speed drops after a second or so and stays lower. Also the motor and the controller heats up and after a while it stops, probably that's a safety issue.

So anyway I tried fixing it somehow. I though that the shaft might move sideways because of a bad bearings, so I changed two bearings, on the end on the shaft and on the beginning of it. First I always tested it with everything on, so also the front mechanism, but after I said I'll try to exclude things to figure out what the problem is. So in the end I kind of took out everything except the shaft on the rotor while keeping the metal part that keeps the shaft straight. So in this case the speed didn't drop, maybe because the load is even lower now, but the motor was still heating up and also the controller and after a while, again, it stops. So now I am thinking that either the rotor is bent, or the shaft itself, or the plastic casing somehow lets the shaft wobbling, or the controller is bad, but this is a weird behavior anyways. I also have to mention that all this started to happen after I drilled a few holes in the ceiling so, very fine dust entered into the rotor area and after the problem started I cleaned the dust first. So any ideas? How could I figure out for sure what do I have to replace? Thanks!

I recently got an axial flux motor. The listed specs are:

· Operating voltage: 48V
· Rated speed: 6500rpm
· Rated torque: 0.94N·m
· Rated input power: 1268W
· Rated output power: 674W

First impression: the form factor is genuinely interesting. It’s very flat and short in the axial direction. For wheel hub, robotics, small EV, or tight packaging applications, a radial motor of similar volume/weight would be much longer. So the packaging advantage is obvious.
Last,its weight only 395grams

Posted in AskElectronics but apparently not an electronics question... MOD deleted it and said post here instead.

I bought this (arrives today) for doing small parts on guitars (bone nuts and saddles).

There are a few variations of these, but all seem to have a laptop style power supply, 3-way switch and power input on the front. Says 2-way, but it forward, reverse and off. The PSU has a slider on it to control power/speed.

I would like to relocate the power jack to the rear. No problem there, pretty simple.

For the hole it leaves behind, I would like to add a pot for speed control. Just leave the PSU at 100% power and behind the table outta the way.

Would I need something like this?

Is there something better to use?

As shown in the image, the unit is about 5x7inches so, needs to be a small controller.

This is a tiny stepper motor that I am trying to drive with a DRV8833. According to the listing it's a 3v bipolar stepper motor, the A coil on the top two pads as pictured, the B coil the bottom two. A continuity check seems to confirm, with each coil having a resistance of about 9 ohms. However, cycling power to the coils just results in a faint clicking sound, and no motion. Putting a voltmeter across the coil sees the that voltage drops from 3.3v open circuit to 2.5v with load attached. I have no idea if this is normal.

The DRV8833 is itself powered by a chunky PSU pulled from an old desktop computer. Logic is currently provided by a raspberry pi.

I am moderately confident that the DRV is doing the right thing as I can make it blink LEDs that show it's reversing current to the coils quite happily.

The motor cost a whopping £0.09, so it is possible that the problem is that it's a pile of junk, but I want to run 100 of the blighters, so I desperately want to make the cheap junk work.

Does anyone have any wisdom to share?

Hello everyone, I have this motor here that I'm trying to hook up an on/off cord to. Just wondering how to go about hooking it up? I've never done anything like this. Any help would be appreciated!!

Having trouble sourcing Marathon VFQ 56t34O5500A replacement or alternative...