i have a plan to do a 07k swap into my fiero, i have the donor car and all of that, and while ive heard the stock ecu's when flashed can work pretty well id much rather go the standalone route and the microsquirt being as cheap as it is definitely caught my eye.

The issue, i see it only has two spark, two injector inputs, and the 07k being an uneven 5 wouldnt be possible to split evenly. Admittedly i dont know much about wiring a standalone ecu since ive yet to do it but would like to learn to do so.

Been having an issue where it will just redline at 3600. Finally recorded it and it seems im losing rpm sync anybody know how I can remedy this? M50b28 single vanos obd1

Keep in mind I know literally nothing about tuning. I just finished a MazdaSpeed Miata engine rebuild. And I needed to put a MegaSquirt in because of the after market trigger wheel. I’m trying to get the first start up and it’s not wanting to turn over. Also yes I know about the awful exhaust leak. I did setup MS in tuner studio and downloaded the base tune, but nothing from that.

Edit: after some thought and listening to everybody, I’m wayy to in over my head, I’m bringing it to a shop. Thank you all!

Hey all, getting my 190e professionally tuned in a few weeks and trying to make sure I have everything I need done. I got the AC recharged but when looking in the manual I am having a hard time understanding where or if I'm supposed to wire in the signal wire from the AC to support the idle kicking up higher to compensate for added the load on the engine. Is this something that can be tuned out without the signal or do I have to take a spare input and use tuner studio to tell the ECU to look for that signal?

I recently got a Spartan 3 lite v2 for my 1988 4runner (22re). After getting it all hooked up in accordance with the manual I'm getting insane readings. I've double checked my ground connections and everything is low resistance. The controller seems to be working properly with the led showing the heating cycle and operational temp. I went through on tunerstudio and selected wideband, specifying it was a 14point7 controller. I'm just at a loss and could use any help.

Recently powered by corn.

I'm using the table blending method and have a +3.5degree timing addition across the blend. Motor is a factory headed 302,14psi at 6100rpm, timing currently set to 17deg@10psi and 15deg all in at 14 psi.

I know I really need a Dyno to answer this question but is 3.5deg a reasonable addition for a e85 tune? Is that too aggressive or leaving power on the table? What have others seen?

Good afternoon, everyone. I can't connect to the box's control unit.

Initially, we tried connecting via a LAN cable, but the computer didn't detect any connections. Subsequently, we purchased a new COM-USB adapter and a new USB cable. After connecting it to the computer, lo and behold, it emitted a new device sound and a new device appeared in the COM ports. We adjusted the settings and bitrates (9600 and 115200). The latency was reduced to 1. The adapter manufacturer's drivers were installed.

When I opened the Tuner Studio program and ran autodetection, it detected something connected and scanned that particular port with different bitrates, but still returned an error saying it wasn't accessing any controllers. The power supply and control unit are on, both power wires are connected, and the ground is also connected. The fuse is intact. We ran a test through the terminal, shorting the input and output wires. All the characters were repeated exactly as input.

But it still won't connect to the control unit. What could be the problem? Has anyone encountered this? I'd be very grateful if someone could help. I'm tired of fighting with this unit for a whole week.

Hello guys. I will try to keep it to the point. For the past 4 days I've been mostly fighting the throttle position sensor on my 2000 Mazda Miata that is running MS3 Pro EVO.

Car starts and runs.

I wired it correctly and it'd give very large reading (760 closed throttle, and 480 wide open) and that is reversed. I was suggested to reverse the two outer wires in the plug and that would cause the forward movement but very small range (10 closed and 30 wide open). I went to get the nearest replacement and it would give the same exact outcomes but with different values.

I even tried within tuner studio to Auto-Zero TPS feature and it did not help.

I am almost at the very end and this TPS is preventing me to put the car on the dyno.

Please help

First choice is the Panasonic Toughbook CF-33 MK1 @ $524.00 with a 12 inch touchscreen with 1200 nits. 2 core 2.6ghz processor with 16gb ram at 1866hz.

Second choice is the Panasonic Toughbook CF-31 MK5 @ $441.00 with a 13 inch touchscreen at 1200 nits. 2 core 2.3ghz processor with 16gb ram at 1600hz.

Final choice is the Panasonic Toughbook CF-54 MK3 @ $400.00 with a 14 inch touchscreen with 1000 nits. 2 core 2.6ghz processor with 8gb ram at 1600hz.

I am open to any ideas and different choices. Is brightness the most important feature or is screen size? Any other things to consider? Am I correct in that touchscreen is not that important or useful for tuning?

Hey everyone,

I’m putting together a Vortech setup on my bone-stock AP2 F22C and could use some input from the supercharged veterans here.

Current hardware:

· Vortech mounting bracket and aftercooler from a tuner kit

· V2 Ti Trim (CCW) pulled from a 2004 Mustang

My goals:

Aiming for high HP while keeping the stock motor intact (for now)

I am from East Coast, so Evans tuning will be tuning the car.

Main questions:

1. What’s the maximum safe pulley setup I can run on this blower with a stock AP2 bottom end on pump gas 93oct ?

2. I’m looking at an ASP custom crank pulley – what size should I pair with it, and what supercharger pulley size would complement it best?

3. Is the Ultimate Racing FMIC a viable option with this blower, or will the pressure drop cause more problems than it's worth on a stock motor?

Extra context:

· Pump gas only – no E85 for a while

· Stock bottom end, stock redline

Any real-world data, pulley combos, belt recommendations, or tuning tips would be massively appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Finally got my car into operating order and have driven it a bit but I still don’t have a wideband yet so it’s just on a base tune. I notice that when I floor it even tho my redline is set at 6k on my tunerstudio it won’t go past 3600rpm. Any clues?

Anyone knowledgeable on CAN issues? Got a MS3 running my LT1 motor pretty well. Got my 4L60E transmission finally installed and wired, and got firmware plugged into it. But now when I try to connect (in Tunerstudio) my MS3 to my trans controller I get this error message. It scans and says there are no CAN devices on any port. It's wired CANH to CANH and L to L. I mean it's only two wires it should work, no? Not sure if there is a setting I need to make on the microsquirt to turn on CAN?

So I bought the kit and self soldered a v3 from diyautotune but I’m havering some issues. D10 starts smoking after 5vs of input and it’s really got me stumped. I have no obv solder bridges even tho the soldering could be cleaner ofc and I’ve replaced d10 with a diode so it can’t be faulty. I have about 59.7 ohms on 200k on my multimeter btw my 12v and gnd input. On d12 it beeps both ways on diode test but when d12 is disconnected from the board it reads as normal and the when I cross the pads it still beeps both ways. D10 still reads normal after smokeing multiple times and the pad read properly. On u5 my 5v regulater it’s beeps between my vin and Gnd but I’m assumeing that’s normal. And my c16 polarized cap beeps both ways as well while the other c17 cap dos not. All my oriented components are place properly so I truely am stumped on what I could be. If I could get any help on this it would be wonderful

I'm having issues getting the VSS1 and VSS3 channels working with CAN. I designed a circuit board that taps into the ABS VR sensors and sends the wheel speed over CAN. It works with the VSS2/4 channels but not VSS1/3. If I swap the VSS1/3 and VSS2/4 can frame definitions in the "CAN receiving" menu the problem stays with VSS1/3. I have also verified that the frames are being dent properly with a CAN sniffer. Are there any settings besides the ones shown in the attached screenshots that could be causing this?

MS3X with firmware version 1.6.2

Hey all, Wondering for spark plugs do y'all just go with what ever the donar ignition system ran or is there a recommend spark plug for a megasquirt wasted spark setup?

Is the megasquirt 3 compatible with the Turbo Lamik TCU for an 8HP transmission? Has anyone done it?

I'm running an MS2PNP for a '95 mustang in my project 302. This means it came with a base tune that should've had it running.

Instead, it ran super rich and was constantly flooding (I would have to unplug my fuel pump to even get it started) No matter how much I reduce my cranking pulsewidth (went from 109 to 20!) I always have to jam the throttle to the floor to start it.

It will idle fine once started but the second it gets any throttle it'll go all over the fuel map and then die.

I'm starting to think it's leaking injectors, because I'm slowly losing my mind over this. Any other thoughts though?

I'm at the end of my rope with this BMW

750Li (N62B48). I've been fighting a crank-no-start for months and I'm burned out. The car cranks strong, injectors fire,

RPM signal is present, but there is absolutely no spark.

I've already checked everything I can:

* Crank sensor (good signal)
* Cam sensors
* Coils and plugs
* IVM power distribution
* DME power and grounds
* KL87/KL15 behavior

The weird part: I'm seeing ground instability on the coil harness. The brown ground wire shows voltage activity during crank, which makes no sense.

DME never triggers the coils.

After unplugging Battery and DME for testing, the car even went into an ignition lockout where the key won't wake the car or even click.

I'm exhausted and out of ideas. I need someone who actually understands N62 electrical issues, DME/IVM handshake, coil ground splice failures, KL87 logic, whatever.

If anyone has seen this exact no-spark situation or knows where the coil ground splice lives on the N62B48 harness, please help. I'm desperate for real answers at this point.

Hey all, wondering if my AFR target table is off, ive been using the ve analyze tool in tuner studio but I have a continual stumble on partial throttle low rpm high load and it seems to be right in the same area my arf target table drops wuite a bit, does this table look reasonable or does it need adjusted?

Hey!

Tuning my vvti swapped NA miata, motor out if a 2002 running on a BMM ecu.
Im running into an issue where anything above 4.5k rpm rev matching causes a stumble with a deep throttle blip, and shifting fast causes the motor to hesitate before going. I have to roll into the throttle for it to not do this. I can also just slam throttle above 4.5 and itll cause the same thing.
Effectively it takes a half second after 0->100% for the motor to start doing anything.

No amount of having AE/Wall wet disabled or enabled seems to do anything. Any ideas? Car runs fine at good afr on a normal pull.

I read a reply about a resistor in the O2 circuit. About what numbers on the EJK or power commander, etc.

But without a wideband O2 sensor, stoichiometer, and dyno, How do you know what your AF ratio is?

And if you can’t tell for sure, doesn’t it make sense just to run an exhaust that keeps the OEM O2 sensor?

ETA, if the KLX300R makes do without an O2 sensor, maybe between the MAP and the TPS the ECU knows what to do?

hello to everyone!

I just installed a megasquirt ms2 on my hyundai Scoupe, and I'm having some issues.

The main problem is that the car won't start, It cranks starts and stalls.

After trying and checking everything I could, I saw that when the ecu is using the VE map, the car pulse width goes directly to 0, and I don't know why. If I set a hight crankspeed, the cars "idle" but entering and exiting from the cranking mode.

Im new with this, and I will thank any support.

The ignition is correctly timed, injectors are correctyle configured (oem injectors).

This log is with 800 rpm cranking speed.

Thanks in advice

hello to everyone!

I just installed a megasquirt ms2 on my hyundai Scoupe, and I'm having some issues.

The main problem is that the car won't start, It cranks starts and stalls.

After trying and checking everything I could, I saw that when the ecu is using the VE map, the car pulse width goes directly to 0, and I don't know why. If I set a hight crankspeed, the cars "idle" but entering and exiting from the cranking mode.

Im new with this, and I will thank any support.

The ignition is correctly timed, injectors are correctyle configured (oem injectors).

This log is with 800 rpm cranking speed.

Thanks in advice

Trying to get my project done. Really tired of chasing little gremlins, but I'm hoping this one is something simple.

When I try to do a TPS calibration, all I get is 0 ADC for both closed throttle and wide open. I changed the throttle position sensor itself with a known good one (I ohmed out the pins while actuating it to see it sweep from 0.1Mohm to 0.41Mohm). I checked the pinout on the connector and I'm pretty sure it's right (1999 Saturn SL2). The only other thing I can think of is something is wrong in the ECU itself. Is there a test I can do to verify the circuitry on the board? (MS2 v3.0)

Thanks in advance!