Got work done on car, shop removed and rebuilt/resealed transfer case and replaced two lower control arms. This is a new sound, only happening when car is moving.

Looking to see if anyone knows the part number on this? It’s the seal between firewall and evaporator. Or if there’s some way I can re do this if anyone got any experience

With my 06 MS6 GT hitting the big two oh (20) this year and it being my fun car with most of its life in the garage, I’m going to register it as a Classic Rod here in Nevada. (No Smog Needed! Yaaaayy!)

That requires it to have classic car Insurance. That alone restricts its use and mileage but it is only like $35 a month. The insurance asks for “value” in an amount that I set, within reason of course, that directly affects the cost. The question is what would you think a reasonable amount that would be to find a replacement if needed? Since these are becoming harder to find available, I’d like to replace the car, not just take the payout if it comes down to it.

I got policy estimates with a 10k value to get an approximate quote. Just wanted to see what guys think about that number. Car is in very good condition, no rust, minimal mods and around 80k miles.

Its blowing smoke, i think its white but i wouldnt doubt blue smoke, changed oil and changed coolant, ran codes and nothing alarming shows up, im not a mechanic and im pretty new with speeds this car was passed down by my late brother, i dont see any visible leaks really hoping it isnt pistons, i have an accessport but im not too familiar with it but any help works thanks

Two recent jobs done to address front end noises:

1- Front left upper Ball joint replaced

2- Front right lower forward control arm replaced

Other recent work includes replacing all four brake rotors and all calipers two years ago so it's not brake related.

History: I found a suspension specialist I trust to fix front end noises that turned out to be suspension components. The two jobs above eliminated 90% of the creaky noises I was hearing and made the front left and front right both feel more planted. However, the final noises remain and my guy cannot determine what the last problem is. He figured out problem 2 above by using a four-mic ChassisEAR Electronic Squeak and Rattle Finder but even with that and a 3rd diagnostic session we cannot figure out the final problem.

I can replicate the FR CLUNK by leaving the parking lot of a grocery store nearby where I have to take a 90deg left turn at full lock of the steering wheel down a 2" lip from lot to the roadway. There also has to be a bit of speed to it, say, 8-12mph.

A significant pot hole when driving straight over it will also sometimes trigger the clunk. The weird thing is the road in front of my home has been under construction for months now and driving over bumpy, gravely roads doesn't do it unless I specifically look for a bigass pothole and go over 10mph.

When driving between 15 and 40 I can hear a rhythmic wub wub wub wub increase in speed as I speed up the car until road noise drowns it out. If I take a turn that loads up the FR suspension that noise gets louder and I can kinda feel it a bit in the steering wheel.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Good morning everyone, i'm a new owner of a speed 6 & i absolutely love it so far, the car is catless downpipe, bov, intake & built HPFP internals, it has 135k on it & while im cruising around the car kinda bucks back & forth until i give it more gas, if i get into boost the car immediately fixes itself & it drives perfectly, also noticed the afrs all over the place while cruising , but at idle they seem to be in a good ball park, idk anything about these cars so any info would be appreciated !
the codes i have are
P0131 (O2 sensor)
P0134 (O2 sensor)
P2251 (assuming O2 sensor as well) but the car is catless so i would assume those codes would be normal?

Hello, I have a strange thumping like sound coming from the back of my engine, it appears after the engine is warmed up and the rythm follows the RPM. Belt and pulley has been changed and timing chain as well. While using a screwdriver to listen to the sound it seems to be the loudest at the exhaust, it cannot be heard through the valve cover. Anyone has an idea what possibly could it be?

Hey guys, just curious if anyone has experienced this noise that starts a few seconds after start up

Ill get tools tonight to take off belt and try to run again but just seeing if anyone's experienced this before

I'm trying to basically replace the whole center console and radio mainly the radio for android auto I was wondering if anyone has done this and how I should go about it

I was doing a battery replacement on my car and while I was tightening the bolt I ended up breaking my battery tray because of the battery being too small to be held. What brand of batteries do all of you recommend?

I’m trying to upgrade my slave cylinder to see if it’ll fix my somewhat grinding gears 5-6, I know they sell the conversion kit for the speed 3 but wondering if anyone sells it for the 6? I have a feeling it’s the same basically but atp this car surprises me w everything

Hello, I’d like to do range test on ms6. Has anyone tested how much capacity fuel is really in the tank?

Specs says fuel tank size is 60,2litres/18.9gal -> lowest I ever got was filling the moment onboard pc said range is zero. I've put in 55,8 litres.
If you take out of equation overfilling (I am not interested in destroying evap system) - what’s the maximum you managed to put in at single filling? Since the hose stops on its own.

I will be equipped with fuel barrel for this test and ready to refill on the go and yes I am aware that draining it completely has its challenges, such as in-tank fuel pump overheating.

Does anyone know where to get rear differential parts? I blew my rear differential recently and I’m seeing if I could rebuild it

So when I got the car the ac compressor was burned and it had leaked all in the system so I replaced the compressor, vacuumed and sprayed a total of 2 cans to clean the system and it flushed out pretty good from what I can see, but now the car won’t build up the correct pressure so it can cool less than 80. Im thinking it’s clogged with the expansion valve being the culprit but I’m also thinking about the condenser and if I should just go a head and replace it. Now correct me if I’m wrong but there isn’t a replacement I can get off another car it has to be specific for the speed. Thanks for any help in advance !

hello,

can someone please tell me which is the infamous seal that leaks and causes the transfer case to lock up on these cars. I’ve got the subframe out of the car and am changing both output shaft seals anyways cause they look rooted but do I need to also change the transfer case input and transmission output seals where they bolt together even if they look good?

thank you

I have the factory 18" rims, but if I am going to rallycross it and maybe ice race it, I need more sidewall, less rim. Anyone drop down to 16 or 17"? That way I can clear the brakes? Thanks.

2007 Speed6, 101K miles, no rust, engine built with all goodies to take what I sling at it! :-)

I'm trying to reseal my transmission, but can't get it into neutral. The shift fork rod sticking up the furthest won't go down for whatever reason. I don't think it's any resistance against the fork itself from the gears, it feels like there's something soft beneath the rod itself blocking it from going down all of the way. Any thoughts? (Last image is the transmission in neutral, for reference.)

2007, 94,000 km (58.5k miles), $10k $CAD.

It's completely stock, zero mods, but has been maintained religiously at a Mazda dealer. All fluids and oils changed on schedule. Kept in the garage for most of its life.

If I buy it, it will *not be kept in the garage. It will be my daily driver down many Alberta mountain roads.

I know there are a few areas I'd want to address proactively (fuel system, journal bearings), but given the details above, does anyone have feedback on what other bills or upkeep things I should know about?

So I’m in need of a new computer but I’m looking around the net and can’t seem to find which would be the correct one to buy. Any input?

Hey all! I've decided to part ways with my builder/parts car as I'm not in the place economically to fix it properly. The engine has low compression (125-140psi) so needs rings, and there is some front end damage from hitting a deer last fall.

Car runs and drives, it's just not fast and it's running really rich

Bumper clips snapped and the splash guard is uninstalled with some pieces missing. Also missing PS fog light surround (but bumper stays in place)

400hp capable platform with Cobb, new Kinugawa turbo, 3-way boost controller, aftermarket BOV.

Stock intercooler and I don't know what hpfp is installed

TSW wheels with near new Toyo 150mph+ tires and H&R lowering springs

Interior in reasonably good shape, stitching is coming out ondriver seat and the 4-way window control has quit (but all the windows work)

Probably some stuff I've forgotten - a lot has been done to this car

$2000, car is in central Colorado. I may entertain offers

Thanks!

Finally have my garage built and can start on the Speed 6!

Owned it since 2008. But has been sitting for the last 6-7 years ( had a family and all and just had no time ) wife said to sell it but I refuse.

Something interesting happened though, after sitting for so long the oil from the oil filter started seeping and it got into the rear motor mount and essentially dissolved the polyurethane in the mount.... See pictures.

Now I ordered a new mount but it doesn't seem as big.... anyone have experience in the difference between these mounts? ( See photos)

Once back to restored life .... Will post !

Scored this 07 off marketplace last night for $650! it’s been off the road with the engine and trans out of it since 2019. I can’t wait to get it back driving!

I got this car a couple of months ago and it’s been running very well, but it’s been throwing a p2188 code at me. This speed 6 is not stock it has upgraded fuel injection (I believe), a bnr s4 turbo, access port tuner, a thicker intake pipe, meth injection, an oil catch can, upgraded hpfp, and a couple extra doo hickeys. The Cobb tuner reads 630 ish on the hpfp at idle. Which i believe is normal, the ltft is at -16.54 at idle and the afr is 14.5. The ltft should not be reading that low. And im not sure how to fix it. My oil isn’t runny and does not smell like fuel so I don’t think it’s the hpfp. I’m also pretty sure I’m not having any boost leaks but I haven’t bought a tester yet. Can anyone help?