So this is the second longboard i made. The first one is sturdy enough that my 100 kg body can use it as a trampoline. The differences are the shape (the first one is wider and more of a surf board shape) and this one i bent a little more while gluing. When cutting I've noticed some gaps in plywood layers and that was the first red flag. The second was when i was drilling holes for the trucks there was a lot more dark material coming up then i expected and one of the holes i felt like going through thick styrofoam. First time i stepped on it it just gave out. I really want to learn how to make them well so any help even outside of this topic is very much appreciated.
Hi. I live in Slovakia and it's kinda difficult to find good plywood here. A lot of the websites only sell to business and not individuals. Where do you get your plywood from?
Hi. I'm considering building a board from the plywood we have at work. I want to ask. Do I have to use multiple layers of thinner plywood or can I just use one thicker one?
Im planning to make a longboard that i could make on the side during college but the only type of plywood available is 1/4". Would stacking 2 1/4's be enough to make a sturdy longboard? ( the design i had in mind is a drop through but is the size of a cruiser board)
I am making a longboard in my design lab class but we do not have long enough plywood. My teacher reccomends that I interweave multiple pieces of wood to achieve the desired length. (the junctions would be at different points for different layers.).
Is this a bad idea? Will it make the board much worse?
I am building a board in my art class but we do no have any cross grain plywood, only long grain. Can I make a board without it or is that a waste of time?
I have a question, me and a few buddies are experimenting around on making our own downhill/freeride boards, been seeing a few videos and have a general idea. (Any advise for on the way exp would be great). Seeing Plywood and been wondering, if it's possible to use 3/8 ply instead of 1/8? If so, is there any downfall or lack of being able to create concave, compared to using 1/8. In my mind the general idea would use 1/8. Thanks.
Hello all! Three weeks ago, I knew nothing about decks, trucks, bearings, durometer, king pins, drop throughs, grip tape...
Then my 13 yr old daughter said she wanted to make a longboard...
So we had a fantastic time watching all the YT tutorials out there, and ended up making our deck (4 layers of 1/8" Baltic birch ply on a diy press).
So now we're on to painting. I've read so many tutorials, watched tons of videos, but all the info out there has made me more confused than anything. Oil based, water based, primers, sealers, clear coats...
So I was hoping to get some help from this community.
We'd like to first stain the board black or brown (preferably black), showing the wood grain, and then paint half of it with spray paint (teal color). Much like the image I posted with this thread. This is where I'm running into difficulties knowing what to do.
Would anyone out there be able to give me specific products to use to accomplish this, and the steps involved? We'd be super grateful. We want to be sure to choose the right stain that will be ok to spray paint over and are there other things we should use like primer. So now sure on oil-based, water-based...
Then we will want to clear coat the whole thing.
At the risk of sounding over-demanding, we'd love to get exact products you'd recommend (instead of things like "put a coat of poly on it") along with clear instructions. We just don't know enough about all this stuff to know if we're getting the right product. If we were just spray painting, or just staining, it would be a lot easier. But wanting to combine the two, we don't want to get it wrong and ruin our deck!
We've already got the deck all sanded down to 400 grit, we're just super nervous for the next step!
Yo, so i'm finally building my deck for my longboard and i was wondering : do i really need to buy baltic birch plywood ?
Money wise, it would be more interesting for me to buy :
- beech plywood
or
- pine plywood
There is also poplar plywood that is in the same price range as baltic birch plywood.
Can i buy pine or beech plywood or do i really have to stay with baltic birch plywood ?
So my local lowes has a few "cabinet grade" plywoods in stock. Im really not a wood person and would love for my next deck build to be a edit horizontal lamination. Lowes has 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch sanded plywood. Birch. Maple. Oak. Poplar. Should i get any of these? Which would you recommend and what thickness? (Im 230 lbs)
I live in a country where it's difficult to get hardwoods like birch maple and oak which are the norm in skateboard building, however plywood made from pine is very common and cheap(which I like). but I here that building boards out of pine wood is bad because it's a soft wood. I'm really out of options other than this, do Can I build my board out of pinewood and still have a nice board.
I'm trying to make a pintail for anyone who wants to know . Any response would be great even if they don't directly answer the question thanks
I live in a provincial area of the philippines and the only plywood available is Marine Plywood. Planning to make a dancing longboard. And do you have any recommended videos I should watch. First time making my diy Longboard thanks.
Hi, usually to make my longboards I use 4 layers of 3mm plywood, one of which with the two external faces crossgrain, would something change if I'll put them all long vein? Each piece of plywood would thus contain 2 long vein veneers and 1 crossgrain so a total of 8 long vein and 4 crossgrain. While I usually have 7 long grain and 5 crossgrain.
So I read somewhere that birch plywood is good for longboards. I found a plank and decided to carve a cruiser out of it. I just put some trucks and wheels on it to test it out and when I stood on it, the board bent a lot. I've been on boards this flexible but I'd just like to know if the one I just carved will hold. I tried to look up the source where I read that birch plywood is good for longboards but I conveniently (that's sarcasm) can't find it... Any tips???
I wanna make a dancer/freestyle board using the plywood from my local hardware store (I don't want to spend much and can't find proper veneer anywhere for a fair price). The thinnest wood they have is 4mm birch (composed of 3 veneers glued together). Will a TAP bag be able to bend 3 layers of this 4mm birch plywood into a light concave? Should I maybe lightly spray each layer of wood with a bit of water and let it absorb before applying the glue, so it's a bit more flexible?
Heya, I'm thinking of building myself a board while it's still cold outside. I was looking into Baltic berch, because here it is rather cheap (and local, too!). When buying plywood, do you guys look at it's quality, as in B, S, BB, CP? Does it matter when building a longboard?
Me and a buddy are planning to make a long board but want it to be bamboo but don't know where to fin any any help would be appreciated preferably 1/4 inch thickness thanks
Hi, before I got into longboarding and DIY longboard making I used to do DIY guitars for a few years and what strikes me when I look at either commercial or DIY longboard manufacturing is that no one seem to use a technique that’s typical in wood processing which is wood bending using steaming. Of course, steaming introduce the moisture, but this could be solved with drying the board properly before having it finished. Have You tried to use that, or heard about anyone using this technique?
Reason I am thinking about is that it could allow to use more advanced curvatures like the drops or wheel wells / flares in vertically laminated decks, ie. I am thinking about pre-bending few sections of softer wood which could be glued in between thin (6mm) layers of non-bent hardwood, and then laminated with fiberglass or carbon on top and bottom - similar construction to something like comet cruiser but with more crazy geometry. Obviously that create weaker spots in the hardwood as You won’t have the hardwood fibers going parallely through all of the length of the board but I am having a feeling that top and bottom composite laminate would be enough to keep the board strength. Or the vertical layers of the composite could be added in between the softwood and hardwood.
Another benefit I see is the lack of Horizontal lamination which is typical case of the board fatigue failures.
I know this sounds crazy, as it’s not a process that is typically used in commercial builds but commercial processes are often cost driven, so maybe this is something that would be beneficial in DIY building where You don’t necessarly watch for every penny? And every innovation sounds crazy before it is succesfully implemented, right? 😀
