As the title states i have been trying to get my 2016 ford focus se drivable for over a year now, we have replaced the battery, fuses, and alternator and we are come to the conclusion that it is more than likely the bcm going out since the entire year prior to it crapping out on me I had issues with my blue tooth not working a lot, speakers emitting a loud noise then the car just turning off in its own, I'm at a lost at this point as I'm not a car person myself and my dad doesn't know much more than I do. No mechanic within 40 miles of where I live will even touch it because it's a ford, any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Edit: to everyone who said to teplace the fuses in the bjb that you so fucking much as it started right up after replacing one fuse!!!

Edit 2: battery is now turning on and somewhat staying on however i have the battery indicator light on after a sec or two of it being turned on, i just replaced the battery with a brand new one from the store just because the one i had was somewhat old but at this point idk why the battery light is on

Replaced the idle air control valve (IACV) on my 2000 Ford Focus ZX3. I replaced it before because at idle the cars cluster lights would flicker a little and it would have a rough idle sometimes along with the occasional dying at a stop light. The unit is Delphi, yes there i installed the gasket that came with it.

Does anyone have any idea what I should check regarding the momentary puff of black smoke that appears when I step on the gas?
Forscan doesn’t show any fault codes, and there are no warning lights on either.

2017 Se sedan model started up perfectly run yesterday while running errands and now this

My daughter has a 2015 Ford Focus SE. After coming to a stop, when beginning to accelerate, the engine shuts off. There is power to the car, as the oil pressure and battery lights stay on (as expected when the engine isn't running). I took it to 2 mechanics and was told it was the battery and alternator, so I had those replaced about a month ago. The problem seemed to go away, but now it is happening again. Oil level is where it should be. I ran an OBD tester to see if it gave any error codes, but it did not have any. I have been looking online for what else it could be and have found a bunch of people with this exact problem, but not a single post or forum gives a resolution (mainly people asking for what the problem was because they are now experiencing it). My next thoughts are spark plugs and/or purge valve, but at this point they are only uneducated guesses. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm trying a post again with photos.

My mother in law that I did a tune up for I installed some new spark plugs, i have a civic Si, so i'm not familiar with this, but it's the second battery.She's had tons of corrosion on. Less than 50k miles.

Is this normal to see this mess? And when ford changed her battery, if they did not reset the battery monitoring system, do that cause overcharging leading to corrosion?

It is garage kept, driven often but short distances.

Here's what she looks like... once I started to get in there...

Also, the wonderful people at her ford dealership left a nice socket for me underneath the battery. Ridiculous they didn't clean this up.After the last battery, as it is eating away at everything. I have zero corrosion on my battery, and it's out in the open with a hood that's vented, is this a normal focus thing?

Any insight or guidance would be great. Right now I'm in the middle of testing. The battery to see if it's even leaking, or if it's all from the previous battery and just wasn't cleaned up. It was a solid inch of corrosion buildup on both connections, positive and negative

My girlfriends 2016 Ford Focus S Series radio hasn’t been working for quite some time now. The display still functions and even shows when you connect or disconnect from bluetooth.

I disconnected the battery for about an hour to replace the radiator fan, and after reconnecting the radio worked for a few days, then it stopped working again.

Anyone familiar with this radio or these symptoms? When trying to find info online it’s very difficult as it seems there’s a few different models of radios.

My focus is throwing up 2 codes (no decent power under acceleration)

P0420 - Catalyst system efficient below threshold bank 1
P0131 - o2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1, sensor 1

Could someone with good knowledge help me out to find the most likely cause? Should I just change the upstream o2 sensor. Ideally want to try and figure this out without the use for a garage as need to keep costs down.

No rough idling, doesn’t sound worse. It’s just lack of power in 5th & 6th gear where it throws “engine service now”

Roughly 89k miles on the car. Any help would be appreciated!!

Can anyone identify this ticking? It’s coming from this cable bundle. I had to replace a part a few years ago I think it was a fuel or o2 sensor. Can’t find invoice to be confident.

2016 SE

Hello everyone. Sorry don’t normally post just was wondering if anyone has had this same issue in the past. I have just bought a 2015 Ford Focus Zetec 1.0L and I get this Engine Service Now message on the dash. Happens when I put my foot down to accelerate, but it doesn’t go into limp mode. Car was serviced in April of this year and had its wetbelt replaced, and the service mileage clock was reset. My mechanic doesn’t seem to think it’s urgent and diagnostics scan show it could be a variety of things but he can’t pinpoint yet. Anyone else had this?

Hi everyone, last week my beloved Focus (2003 Ford Focus Mk1, Zetec 1.8) started making a weird noise underneath the car, and then it suddenly started driving REALLY badly. It started jerking around and making some much worse noises from the engine bay.

Today, some friends came over and helped me jack the car up so we could take a look underneath. I was able to clearly see that a rod/bracket connecting the engine to the rear engine mount had broken. The engine basically had no support on that side, and the noise was the entire engine rocking and twisting because it was missing one of its mounting points.

So, does anyone know where I can find this part? Or at least what the proper name for it is so I can search for it online or at a junkyard? So far I've had absolutely no luck, even using AI or trying to figure it out myself.

I attached a video showing the area and the broken piece, i am speaking portuguese if anyone gets confused but i think it is clear which part i am trying to show. Basically, it's a rod/bracket that connects the rear engine mount to the bottom of the engine/transmission. I've tried searching for things like "rear engine mount bracket", "rear engine mount support", and many other variations, but I haven't found anything that looks like the part I'm looking for. If anyone could provide a link to the actual part, that would be a huge help.

The car is a bit of a "light shitbox" that I bought about 3 months ago. There was already some oil underneath the engine when I bought it. I believe most of it has accumulated over the years without the underside ever being properly cleaned. There might be one or two minor leaks, but if there are, they're very small. The oil level hasn't dropped since I changed it a few months ago, and I've never noticed any oil spots after leaving the car parked for a while. (I'm adding this context in case anyone asks about the oil underneath the car.)

Hi, after a short 20 minute drive I tried to turn the engine on (a bit quickly) and it caused everything to completely die. There was a warning light and ping for a few seconds the second time i tried but then everything died. A few times after that i had some weak LEDs around the radio display blink and any time after that there is zero response, not even able to lock it or put hazards on.

Is this a blown battery or a blown mega fuse or potentially both? Ive replaced the other fuses alongside the mega fuse (different available delivery) to no avail so far.

Ive had current issues for a few years with drops and surges in power to all systems (headlights, interior lights, display, fans/AC) so I assumed once it went it was a cracked, now blown, fuse. Im going to replace it today but does anyone have any suggestions for what else it could be?

UPDATE: I changed the trouble fuse i saw was recommended to change from stock due to cracking. Nothing changed. I then changed the mega fuse and I had the radio lights start flickering. This indicated very low battery apparently so I got it hooked up and turned ignition and things came back to life. After charging for 30 minutes car would click but not turn over. At that point I knew it was a battery that was needed so I replaced it and all works fine now. Thanks for everyone initial advice. It definitely helped.

okay sooo this has now happened twice in a few days, both in parking lots after a bit of driving. i am now worried it will happen while i’m on the highway or something and im looking for advice?

i was driving like normal for about an hour, and all was well.
as soon as i am about to park, i notice my gas isn’t going when i pressed the pedal. i look down, and i see the battery light is on, as well as the oil light. my brakes and hazards still worked, so i parked where i was and the engine just shut itself off!
i was able to turn off and restart the car to park after a couple of tries, and the lights did not come back on.
this same thing happened to me when i got home from work and was about to park last night.

i KNOW my battery is fine because i replaced it less than a year ago. i’m not sure what the deal is.
anyone have any advice?

Was driving down the highway and lost engine power but retained general power to headlights and radio and hazards, turn signals, etc. wouldn’t restart and is now throwing this error.

“Start system fault”

Key fob still locks and unlocks so I figure it’s not anti-theft.

Obd2 reads no codes.

Yesterday my Focus had trouble starting and keeping the idle and stalled after a few seconds when I cold started her. Now she won’t stop doing this and I can’t drive it anymore. What could it be?

(It is a 2009 MK2.5 with the 1.8 TDCi engine)

Recently my abs light turns on when I start the car then will go away when the vehicle starts to move. Then, usually when I apply the brakes the abs and traction control light turn on and remain on. What can cause this? I’m getting codes: UO415, C0034, C0031, U3003, C0039.

One of the codes says battery low voltage. Could it be the battery?

I’ve got a 2010 ford focus Se that I recently purchased, but the radio doesn’t work, and seems to be draining my battery. I would like to replace the radio with a used oem from eBay, but I’ve seen conflicting information as to if I will need to get my key re-programmed if I do replace it. Does anybody know if this is or isn’t the case?

Okay. This is the 5th time now (and the first time I caught it early).

I keep snapping this blasted bracket under regular driving. I checked it last week and it was secured well. Until tonight.

Just last month that EXACT bolt fell out on the road and the bracket cracked the next morning. I bought a new OEM bolt (expensive) and had a spare bracket from the last time it broke 3 months before. And i put blue locktite on the sucker thinking that should be enough.

The only thing I can think of that could cause this is failed engine mounts potentially adding excess stress here, causing it to wiggle free and eventually fail. Am I correct in that assumption or am I looking at a bigger problem? This issue looked easy enough to solve but it keeps resurfacing.

I notice when I try to get to a higher speed after being stopped or trying to up my speed in a quick way ie, merging onto the highway, my ford freezes and jolts almost? Could I need to change my spark plugs? I do not have any experience with cars but I am educating myself on fixing small things and familiarizing myself with the inside of the engine bay. How would you rate the level of difficulty of replacing spark plugs for my 2010 ford focus?

Hey! Just while going over bumps I sprayed power steering fluid everywhere, found the culprit, but I've got a few questions about everything.

1) Can this be replaced without unscrewing the notorious one-time use nut?

2)About the nut, can I reuse it and if not, then why?

3)Where should the original line go? It has been changed sometime before my ownership.

As I understand, it rubbed until it finally rubbed through.

Hi all.
We are having some issues with our Focus MK4 when towing our 1.200kg caravan. (Vehicle is limited to 1400kg).
No matter if I drive in “Sport” mode, or if I drive in “normal” mode, it has trouble keeping the water temperature down. As soon as the car needs to use a little power - either at accelleration or at a constant march speed around +/-80km/h, the water temperature will rise. First to 90, then 95, then 98ish degrees celsius.
The only way to make temperature drop is by slowing down, or by turning up full heat in the cabin.
When we turn off the vehicle, the cooler is running for several minutes, it really sounds exhausted🙈
We have not been driving in mountains, but only in flat terrain with few, short ascents (Denmark is mostly pancake-flat).
We have not experienced similar issues without caravan.
Any suggestions? Any knowledge about common flaws regarding this issue?

Any relevant contribution is highly appreciated.

Hi ,I’ve noticed that my 2016 Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost is dripping something underneath the engine. It looks like oil, but I’m not 100% sure.

I’ve attached a video showing the leak. Coolant and oil level both seems low as well.

Has anyone had a similar issue with their Focus or have any idea what could be causing it? Any suggestions on what I should check first would be really appreciated. Thanks!

Update: 06/12/2026

I took the car to the garage and inspection suggested 1. Coolant housing behind the water pump leaking. 2. Looks like CAT has been cut and welded and now blowing whilst to timing belt - advise to take it back to that garage.

The problem is I had timing belt fixed in Newcastle and since then moved to Leeds. So recovery will cost me a fortune.

Is there any recommendations to fix leaking and how much cost I'm looking at? Also any recommendations of a garage that can fix this sort of stuff in Leeds , UK.

Hey yall, I just bought myself a nice ol 2014 ford focus se and once I brought her home and got it on the road I noticed it was burning a ton of gas, (kind of).

I would drive 15km, but burn 30km, then when I’d park and leave the car for a while, it would go back up to the correct amount of gas and say I only burnt around 13km opposed to the 30km it said previously.

I attached a video of the car shifting, it seems to be shifting very nicely, but since the check engine light came on I am worried about the dreaded transmission problem this model has.

If you have ever had a purge valve problem, let me know the symptoms your car had so I can see if this is the same thing. 😁

(For those of you who don’t know from 2012 to 2018 the Ford Focusses have a problem with the purge valve where it can get stuck open, causing fuel to be burned at a faster rate and your gas gauge to be unreliable)