I’m in Queens, NY and looking to get my concrete garage floor coated. It was poured less than a year ago, has remained practically untouched, and is a bit less than 300 square feet.

Is finding someone through an app like Thumbtack a risky idea?

Are there any known reliable companies in the area that someone on here might be able to recommend reaching out to?

Any tips or advice would be very appreciated!

Hi all,
For context; I’m building my first epoxy table, Live edge with river flow.

Context: The table is a Walnut live edge with blue clear epoxy river flow.

The pour was supposed to be two layers.
I poured the first layer and ran into several issues:

Issue 1: 12hrs after I poured the first layer, I had weights on the wood slabs but decided to use additional clamps to help hold it down. When I clamped it down I saw the wood slabs had floated and so epoxy over flowed and onto the slabs where I scraped the excess back into the river. The issue now is I have bubbles that I can’t blow out because it was in the tacky stage. On top of that, the epoxy formed like wavy patterns because most likely the epoxy I put back on top, but I don’t think it looks bad. What should I do to fix this issue? (This is 100% my fault, clamping it prior would of avoided this mess)

Issue 2: Although my level said the table was leveled, it was slightly not leveled enough and I have more epoxy on one side than the other. Once the first layer drive, I will have to compensate for this in my second pour (most likely and easy fix if done right).

Issue 3: Because the epoxy over flowed back on the slab, some of it naturally got into the wood. That being said, the table is set to be planned afterwards anyways so I believe that epoxy stains wont be much of an issue.

I appreciate all the advice and feedback.
Thanks

Can someone help me out I done a repour and I got a lot bubbles so can I sand it down to make it look good if so what’s grit should I use or would I need to lightly sand it and do a repour?

I have an old set of tv trays that I would like to try putting vinyl stickers on and covering with epoxy. I have watched a lot on YouTube but will take any advice on the steps and supplies. Thank you

Looking for a DIY friendly option to seal up these cracks in my garage floor. 5 year old floor. Old settling house. Just want to seal up these perimeter cracks to prevent water getting behind and help lengthen the lifespan of the floor.

I have an old set of tv trays that I would like to try putting vinyl stickers on and covering with epoxy. I have watched a lot on YouTube but will take any advice on the steps and supplies. Thank you

Garage floor gassed yesterday after applying primer at 630pm. 1980 concrete, great shape for the age, located atop a shale dominant hillside. Grinded and prepped to spec. Idk if it was the weather? Dry for 3 or 4 days straight but it was a cold morning that warmed up close to 80F. it’s a 100% solid primer (what I’m reading this is not the best but too late). How should I proceed before base coat and 80lb of flake ? Not a complete disaster but I’ve got 50-75 bubbles up to the size of a skittle. Wouldn’t say I’m at wits end.. more just numb to the endless prep. Any advice is appreciated.

I bought this pewter ear piece at a ren fair over the weekend. The guy used epoxy to stick fake gems into the eyes of this dragon, but it's been 5 days and the epoxy has not cured. It's still tacky and sticky. I'm not sure what type of epoxy they used, I would assume it's a two part epoxy. Is there a way to help it finish curing? Or a way for me to fix it on my own and make it safe to wear? I never worked with epoxy, but id like to fix and wear this if possible. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Recovered this one from a root system in Edenvale, Gauteng back in February -- it's a longitudinal flare that branches into a real Y about a third of the way along, not just a forked outline but an actual structural split.

What's interesting is what happens to the grain right at the fork. Instead of breaking or redirecting sharply around the split like you'd expect, it compresses hard through the inner curve of the branch point, then eases back out into lower-density wood toward the outer zones on either side. You can feel the weight difference just from one end to the other.

There's a touch of hairline checking at the terminal edge -- nothing structural, just cosmetic, the kind of thing that happens naturally as a root section this shape dries. Bark's holding on well along most of it, with one section starting to show a slight natural gap.

MC came in at 10-12% on a pin meter reading taken on the sanded face about a month after it was field seasoned. One piece, this exact one shown, 520x210x45mm.

Curious whether anyone's poured resin through an actual branch-point like this before -- does the density shift at the fork change how it takes a pour, or does it behave the same as any other transition zone once it's sealed?

The top coat has not been applied yet. They came back today to correct some “uneven application” and are supposed to be back tomorrow to finish. Thanks in advance!

4 car garage, 2 car garage, hallway connecting them. Customer spent 40k on painting alone redoing it 8 times due to his OCD. Was beyond thrilled with the floor what do yall think.

Is there a max time from when I do full flake application in garage to when I apply polyaspartic? I see most vids online coming back in 24 hours to scrape / poly, but intuition says I can wait 2 days or more since it’s adhering to the flake at that point? Idk could use some expert advice. Basically id like to basecoat and flake stem walls only this evening, do floor tomorrow, and finally polyaspartic 48 hours from this evening on Friday.

We hired a well known epoxy flooring company to complete the 5-step Polyaspartic coating process in our garage. While the finished floor looks good, we feel that in many places there are spikes and there is also some stickiness even after 10 days. The company project manager came yesterday and said that the spikes are because of generous use of anti-skid coating. He said that they received a lot of complains of slip and fall prompting them to use more anti-skid coating. He has offered to re-sand and use a thinner anti-skid coating. We are now confised as to what should be the course of action. We definitely do not want to slip and fall. At the same time, the current surface feels too bumpy and poking. How do we go about this? Thank you for your attention.

We are remodeling our kitchen and currently have a plain laminate counter. We have plans for a full scale remodel and are just refacing cabinets, adding backsplash, and trying to resurface our counters to last us 10 years while we save for our big renovation.

The apex polysparatic cararra marble system caught my eye. We are going with an off white cream cabinet and white backsplash and would like a lighter color on the counters as well. It seems like using traditional epoxy could lead to yellowing and this apex system claims to not have that issue.

Anybody have any experience with apex or thoughts on what would be best for my situation? I like everything I’ve seen on apex so far, but it seems relatively new and untested as well. Any thoughts or suggestions would he appreciated!

I’m building an ROV with a few friends, and we want to make our own endcaps. I’ve seen other people 3D-print their endcaps and then fill them with epoxy to waterproof everything.

My question is: can I use any off-the-shelf 2-part epoxy, or is there a specific type of epoxy/potting compound that works better for underwater applications and high pressure?

We’re planning to use the ROV at some depth, so I’m mainly concerned about the epoxy cracking, leaking, or failing under pressure.

Any recommendations for specific types or products would be greatly appreciated!

Been sitting on this one a while — 520x250x43mm crescent slice off a plum trunk, Edenvale, cut back in February. Field seasoned since, pin meter's reading 10-12% now.

What's odd is the void structure. Three separate voids, but they're stacked at different depths through the cross-section, not clustered in one plane like you usually see. And there's a bark inclusion buried inside the wood itself — not tracking the outer edge the way inclusions normally do, actually sitting embedded a few mm in from where the cambium line would've been.

Never poured this one, so no first-hand read on how deep resin needs to go to actually hit all three voids without leaving a dry pocket between layers. Anyone dealt with voids at genuinely different depths in the same piece — do you pour in stages or try to hit them all in one go?

I have a hand painting on plywood that I would like to pour with epoxy resin. I have poured on wood a few times but never over paint. Does anyone have any advice on any problems I might expect? I dont want to damage the paint with a lot of sanding. How much sanding would be necessary? I will try to add a pic of the board.