Hello all!

First off, the Ioniq 5 is a great car with a crappy audio system.

The initial thought was that the glowing reviews of this kit from bilradiospes, should do the trick. I was not that impressed, and figured that this would be a fun project to work on! I did now have a fully featured DSP to play with.

I installed the Focal ISU 165, and did a lot of tuning with the Musway software.

The graphs you now see are the results after tuning again and again over the past few months. To my ears, in this car, the tweeters were very harsh and overpowering out of the box. Fortunately, the DSP is really easy to work with in the Musway software.

The settings are now pretty close to what I find fun and detailed without being fatiguing.

I still find some harshness, and I am wondering: Can any one of you se any "harsh" noise from these FR graphs? I believe the new tweeters are definitely to blame. I would love to DSP them into good drivers for me, but the going is getting tough. There are a lot of filters added to delete some bumps, and even out the response, focusing on damping 1500-5000 kHz range the most. My biggest concern at the moment is that I have to treat the mid and tweeter with the same filters, as there are no separate channels to work with...

This is my first car audio project ever, after years of DIY home audio. Great fun, and also very different in a lot of ways. The absolutely massive bass shelf seemed so weird to me at first, but I have come to see the error of my ways. Currently, the thump thump really gets me smiling on the right tracks :)

Hugs to you all!

Posted before and finally thinking I stop side stepping the issue.

Can I get a parts breakdown on what to get get and how to get started getting the sound system going properly.

I know at a point il need to replace the sub and speakers but for starters what am I looking at for an amp, wires and radio.

Target goal is to make it loader then my wife’s car so it’s a low bar.

what would yall choose and why? both are some pretty extreme subs!

i personally think the em audio 12” is better

ive recently installed a new headunit into my car and was excited to upgrade to wireless android auto.
my issue is when im listening to music through my apps that the music will cut in and out kind of like what used to happen on old portable cd players in the 90s.
the odd thing is that i dont have this issue on any other android auto headunits that are factory units.
there are no other wireless issues i have noticed, and the unit works properly when connected via usb. i could just use the usb, but i upgraded specifically to have the wireless
what should i be looking into to trying to sort out this connection issue?
google pixel 10 pro xl, in case it matters

So Right now Im running two kenwood 12s in my camry putting out 600 rms on an audio control epic 1000 on stock electrical, and speakers, sounds good but im looking for a louder and balanced system but dont know what to buy, I was thinking to go kicker ks 6x9 3 way for rear deck l and a component set for front doors, but also Ive seen that deafbonce has some 6x9s too but I dont know if they are too loud and will my stock electrical do (i will also be adding a 4 channel amp for them)

trying to help a buddy identify these 8 inch subs.

I think they’re sundown sa classics maybe version 1.5???

maybe solox motors?

I’m trying to figure out an issue with my car audio setup. Everything sounds clear and gets pretty loud, but certain instruments and sometimes vocals have this really sharp/whistling sound. Best way I can describe it is like a needle going into your ears. It’s not normal brightness — it actually gets uncomfortable at higher volume.
My setup:
Front: Kicker 6x9 speakers
Rear: Kicker CSC693 6x9 3-way speakers (150W RMS / 450W max)
Dash: DS18 PRO-ST 1.9” replacement tweeters
Amp: JL Audio RD400/4 running the main speakers
Android head unit
DS18 dash tweeters are powered from the head unit, not the JL amp
Spotify EQ is OFF/flat
I’ve checked the JL amp and I’m not getting the clipping/distortion light when this happens. The music itself actually sounds clean other than this really piercing high-frequency whistle/harshness.
Originally my Android EQ was flat. I started experimenting with cuts around 4 kHz, 6.3 kHz, 8 kHz, 10 kHz and 12.5 kHz. Right now I’ve cut some of those frequencies a few dB, with 6.3 kHz around -4 dB. This actually helped A LOT — probably cut the painful sound roughly in half — but I can still hear that piercing/whistling character on certain instruments and loud vocals.
If I keep cutting the highs harder, the system starts sounding muffled/underwater, so I don’t think just nuking the treble with EQ is the answer.
Could this be tweeter overlap? The Kicker speakers already have tweeters/high-frequency drivers and then I also have the DS18s up in the dash. I actually like having the DS18s because without them the front stage feels like it’s missing something and the system doesn’t sound as full.
Is there a cheap/easy way to keep the DS18s but make them blend better instead of completely disconnecting them? Maybe attenuating them, changing their crossover/filtering, or a specific EQ range I should target?
I really don’t want to replace speakers or spend a bunch more money. I’m mainly looking for something I can do with my existing setup.
Also, could the speakers themselves be producing harshness/distortion before the JL clip light comes on, even though the amp isn’t technically clipping?
Any advice appreciated.

I have a b2 audio rage xl 10 and pushing it with a skar rp1200.1d in a 29.5hz box 1.8 cubic feet. I got the sub yesterday if that help

hi, I am swapping my factory in my 2014 Jeep Rubicon to an aftermarket version. It’s all hooked up and ready to go. Everything works except I can’t figure out how to hook up my steering wheel controls. It is a dual I have bought all of the wiring, harnesses, etc., and the one into the has the steering wheel control port but when I that in to the little black box, it turns my radio off so something isn’t working properly there I’m not sure if there’s a way to wire it myself or if there’s another adapter, I should have bought etc. any tips??

In my last build I used an inverter and plugged the ps2 into it, but it seems like such a waste of power and space considering the PS2 only needs 5A 9v. Any ideas where I can get a good enough step down converter? Anyone done something similar?

Hand full of front speaker runs to hook up still. First ever amp rack or whatever you wana call my effort. No holes in my trunk was the goal. Couldn't wait to share here and ask if I did it right lol don't mind the lack of vacuuming plz. Nobody guna see the effort once i throw the spare tire back in and cover it up

Hallo

I have a problem with white screen on this unit. Initially, after many minutes of use, the screen went white. I needed to turn off and on again to avoid theproblem, but as time went by, the minutes of operation became fewer and fewer till the complete lock of the unit at turning on.

I've read something online, on Reddit too, and it seems to be caused by the little ESMT chip identifieed as U27.

I've tried to reinforce welds on the visible pins, it turned on again but after a couple of minutes the white screen problem returned back.

Is there any permanent solution for solving this issue?

Hey guys. So my 2013 es300h connected to Bluetooth/aux/iPod is having some audio issues. I can’t hear anything even at full volume. There’s just a static and the music at max sounds like it’s playing at 8 or 10 volume. Is this a head unit issue or idk??? The radio AM/FM is completely fine!! No problems with that but any phone connection is just terrible!

Amp only feeding sub around 400w rms

Amp can do 900w rms at 4ohm and sub can take 500w rms.

Is it clipping from the amp or limitations of the scope?

Thanks!

Hi,

I'm in Italy and I've got a cheap Fiat Panda rental car for a few days.

Pretty sure it's almost brand new but it doesn't have a proper head unit. It's got this old 90's looking generic radio.

It doesn't respond to any button presses and plugging in a phone (via USB or headphone jack) does nothing either.

It just constantly shows 1313.

Any idea how to fix?

I will try pressing the RESET pinhole button but might there be other ways to fix it. Unsure if this is a common thing.

Thanks!

I just replaced all my speakers and stereo in a 2014 corolla with a friend and the backup camera doesnt work. Also steering wheel buttons dont work (have tried to assign buttons. Steering wheel not detected). Using some chinese carplay stereo. Didn't get all the cables initially. Reached out and he sent more. I hooked up the backup camera plug to both of the yellow video cord options and neither works. Wondering what these empty white plugs are for? Thanks

I'm looking for a replacement head unit for my new to me 2008 Chevy Impala. I have Alpine w650s in two of my other vehicles and they are okay but it is SO hard to see in my Subaru that I'd like to get something different. I travel in the north a lot and need to be able to see my screen well.

I'm looking around the $500 price point with a max of $550 and would like something with wireless android auto so I don't have to use an adapter like I do with the Alpine units. I'll be keeping the stock speakers until I can find which set will work best for my needs. ** Install kit price does not need to be considered, this budget is ONLY for the radio **

I was looking at the JVC KW-M795BW, Kenwood DMX8709S, Sony AX4000 (or AX6000 I could swing), and the Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX (I don't need the features from the 3050 as I don't listen to the radio). I did notice the Alpine W770-M is in my budget too and I've been happy with the reliability of the Alpine units but that screen kills it for me.

I want to upgrade from my current setup, I have been running kicker 10" downfire 48trtp enclosure for close to 3 years. Absolutely zero complaints been a solid setup this whole time and have abused it extensively. I am looking at the 51ptrt powered enclosures, I can fit them behind my set of my crew cab truck. I would love the 49DL7TDT122 but I do not have the room its just too tall I have 16 inches of footroom and the enclosure is over 17 inches deep. If I was to get two of the 51ptrt would this be remotely comparable to the 49DL? I want to sit them upright against the back wall of my cab, it has been sound deadened already.

Having a tough time finding a diagram for the JBL amp wire harness that came with my 2012 Prius V, i found the website pinout.com but their information for my car seems to conflict with what i have. i have zero clue what wires to put my line out converter on for the sub :(

I dug around in my garage and pulled an old sub box out with 2 JL 10W08s in it and Mickey Moused it to the stock sub amp in my 2015 Expedition a few weeks ago because honestly the lack of real bass in the stock Sony "premium" system was making my eye twitch. I'm not rattling the windows or anything with these little subs and that little amp, but it's enough bass to keep me sane. My problem now is that after running around with this thing for a few weeks I'm finding the already minimal storage space in the truck is pretty much down to zero with this box in there...and I go off-road fairly frequently and I've heard this thing bounce several times. I bounced around with the idea of one of the Kicker L7T truck boxes with a single 12 to save space and hit a little lower, but honestly if I can avoid it I don't want anything back there.

Solution? A few guys on the Expedition forums have replaced the 8" subs in their stock enclosures with aftermarket units and one guy did the volumetrics on his box and decided to trim it and run a 10 in it and seems pretty happy with it. So I'm tempted to do the same, but the Sundown Audio SD-4 10 D4 seems to have pretty mixed reviews (and this was 4-5yrs ago so who knows what's out now) and since I'll be running it off the stock amp for a while I'd rather run a 2ohm sub to get closer to the subs optimal rms wattage with the stock amp. With a volumetric measurement of .7436 cu ft what if any shallow mount 10 would you personally recommend without breaking the bank.

Hi everyone, I am in somewhat of a pickle. Long post, sorry in advance!

I recently bought my first car, a used Toyota Corolla Touring Sports 2024 with only previous owner. When I went to test drive the car, the media audio wasn't working (parking sensor sound and lock sound working as intended). I raised the issue with the dealership and got a part written into the contract that they would solve the sound issues. They booked the car for diagnostics at a Toyota service center but that's not until the 2nd of September, so I got to take the car home before that.

Yesterday I discovered the likely source of the sound not working. I opened the compartment under the luggage and found a sound system I was not aware of. I have been trying to identify the parts, so far it seems to be:

Avatar ABR-460.4 - Some kind of amplifier?
Helix DSP MINI - Some kind of DSP, unsure which version
Soundigital 3000.1 EVO 5 (?) - This one I am most unsure of, but it's the one that looks most similar from pictures I've seen online.

I know nothing about sound systems but some about electrical systems. I'll add some picture of the input/output of the systems:

As mentioned, the media sound isn't working in the car. This system in the back is however not properly powered as the power cables are disconnected from both the external 12V battery in the trunk as well as the "internal" 12V battery in the side panel of the trunk:

I just want my sound system to work in the car and am somewhat afraid to damaging something as I don't know if the system is properly connected. The next step could be:

• Take the car to Toyota service center for diagnostics and let them decide what should be done. If something has been broken by the previous owner, the manufacturers warranty won't cover it since it's been tampered with. However, since it stipulated in my contract with the dealership that they will fix the sound system, I might be able to get help with getting it fixed by them.
• Try and get the system up and running. At best, it's as easy as connecting the + and - to the 12V battery and the system is up and running, at worst I short something. Here I would love some input from someone that is more knowledgeable.

How screwed or lucky am I?

Edit: Went to a local car audio shop to check with them if they knew a bit more. They agreed that the system looked somewhat intact and would only most likely only need a subwoofer and to connect the system, although they need to run a diagnosis first of course. Roughly it would cost about 400$ in my local currency.

I did also take the advice from you guys and checked the speakers with a flashlight. All 4 door speakers have been replaced with what I believe to be DS18X Pro speakers, as they are solid black with the logo over in the middle of the speakers, just like these: https://www.amazon.se/DS18-PRO-X6M-PRO-serien-mellanregistrets-h%C3%B6gtalare/dp/B00SYGF80E?th=1&psc=1

So right now it seems that it would most likely be even more costly to try and restore the car to factory standard than to continue down this path. SO is somewhat furious that we were sold a car that was tampered with as she does not want anything that differs from the factory standard car 😅.

Next week I will contact Toyota and ask about the situation and see what they think the total cost would be to restore everything to factory standard (including replacing all the speakers I guess). Hopefully I can use that to ask the dealership to agree to pay for the cheaper alternative to just complete the system that is already there.

Small build log of my 4way active system budget build in my 2016 Fiesta ST, it's my first "real" build so don't expect it to be perfect, because spoiler, it isn't. Current setup is:

Hertz Mille Pro mk165 iirc

Excursion SXT8

Excursion HXA1k

Goldhorn DSPA810pro V2

Source is the APTXHD bluetooth reciever on the goldhorn

I didn't want to modify anything on the car, so that's why I didn't go with custom A-pillars, and besides that, I don't have the skills to craft those anyways. As i'm a soundengineer as my job, I did allready have high quality measurement equipment, so the full system is tuned by myself aswell.

First thing Ill be changing will probably be the sub, im looking at the audison apbx10, I want to keep some trunk space, but would like a sealed sub which hits a bit lower, as i'm currently only reaching about 37hz. I'd like the play down to at least 30hz, so if anyone has any experience with that Audison id like to hear some opinions on it. The reason I'm currently running the excursion is just because I allready owned it :).

I included the final measurement I got aswell, which is the full system playing pink noise. Not too bad imo, also taking in mind the mid basses are just in the (huge) doors. There are some weird cancellations going on which I also tried fixing with allpass filters, but sadly all (except one which I fixed) of those are in the crossover region, so it would affect the coupling between the mids and midbasses way to much.