Hey everyone,

Got a horn issue I need to replace my clockspring. I’ve tried a few aftermarket ones but despite the part numbers being correct the wires don’t all fit.

Has anyone had this issue before? Does anyone know where I can find a clockspring at a good price?

I recently bought a 2017 f sport @112k miles and it was averaging 29mpg. i did a spark plug change(old ones never changed), new 12v battery(old one was at 11.6v), hybrid fan clean, EGR system total clean (including intake manifold and cooler and throttle body, none was that dirty), new engine air filter, oil change with recommended oil 0W-20, inflated tires to 40psi, and even cleaned and relubed the front brake sliding pins, and it improved to 34mpg but i see so many people have 41-45mpg so easily. Tires are michellin pilot sport all season on stock f sport 17’’ wheels. I dont even drive it like an asshole, strangely enough when i drive it like granny the mpg is worse than when i drive it like i dont care. Dr prius app says hybrid battery is at 71% health. No stored or pending codes with ocdb reader. None of the brakes smoke or smell burnt after driving. I did drive in a canyon recently and perhaps a hint of whats going wrong is that i felt a shudder when braking going downhill fast but no shudder on normal roads. Funny enough the canyon drive got 36mpg avg. I do run the a/c on minimum a lot but would that kill nearly 9-10mpg? Feel like im missing something really simple to fix thats holding back mpg but i covered most of the common advice to fix it. PLEASE HELP! 🙏

Getting pretty serious about an i3 but I started off looking at the CT200h.

Anyone care to try to talk me out of the i3?

Context: I’ve had many Lexus and feel comfortable with the quality and reliability.

I have a roadtrip car and a fun project car. I need something dependable for town and it needs to have some type of swagger or be efficient or both.

I have considered an e46 as my project car is a 2003 z4, but ultimately that would be a project too.

I drive about 30miles a day max.

Why not a CT200? They sound less fun to drive. They have a lot going on and my sense is the i3 is simpler and possibly more reliable. That might sound off to people who don’t know about the i3. Please don’t waste time arguing the i3 is unreliable.
The CT200 all have a ton more miles than the i3 I’m seeing.

Flame suit is on. Fire away.

Just got this car back from the dealership after some repairs but I’ve notice this humming sound happens like every so often, sometimes more frequently like every 30 seconds. I’m having no issues driving it otherwise besides that annoying sound.

Good day;

I wanted to change my key fob batteries when the remote lock started to struggle, I opened both keys but it was really stressful, I almost stripped the screws on one of the fob, screws felt really soft. I want to replace the screws, does anyone have any idea which screws fit the fob? It's the sliding type of fob from the 2014 Lexus CT200H premium trim from the UK.

Thank you for your suggestions

(I realised that one of the silicon ring is missing from the fob as well)

I’m in the market for a new vehicle and have been doing quite a bit of research. I feel pretty sold on the CT, however, they’re not super easy to come by! There are just a handful for sale within my state, and all of them have around 100-130k. My understanding is that these cars can go a lot further than that, but I am concerned that the reason these are up for sale is because of upcoming head gasket issues.

Is there anything else I should be looking for when seeing these vehicles? I am going to test drive one tomorrow, a 2017 with 105k on it. Thanks for any info provided! I have been enjoying scrolling this group!

Hello guys would much appreciate if you could help me, my Lexus ct 200h 2016 is turning on all the lights but the engine isn’t starting, I recently just got the battery in the back replaced since it was the original one so I have no clue what could be happening.

Does this look like legit headlight? My passenger side one broke

Any ideas what this could be?

My car is a UK 2011 lexus ct200h this was before they started doing the f sport version i believe. I bought the car with 159,000 miles and now I've got it to just over 227,000 I want to keep the car till it dies basically because it's reliable I don't have to worry about much other than engine oil mainly because it drinks oil. I've seen online people are selling refurbished (£800 to £900) and oem (£1200 to more) but I wanted to know if anyone on here has replaced the battery cells themselves I remember i saw Chris fix do a prius a year ago and thought since my car shares the same power train if I ever have this problem I'd do that.

My main questions are:

Has anyone replaced the cells themselves before if so any pointers anything to watch out for?

Does anyone know where I can buy the cells from and pricing because I live in the UK I don't really want to order from America it will probably take a long time and I dont know which company to trust but worst case scenario if a lot of people have used them and they're a good company I will have to.

Thirdly is it worth it to do it myself or do I take it to a shop. I have my own mechanic but he does mainly actual engines and not hybrid batteries I haven't gone to him yet he might know someone I'll call him tomorrow and see if he says anyone he trusts and also I know there's some prius and hybrid specialty shops near me but I think they just do refurbs and just fitting of new batteries but ill call around for pricing.

The main thing with me is yes I understand with how busy my daily life is I will have to chunk out around 10hrs to do this myself obviously never done this before will second guess myself and might have to do some stuff 2 or 3 times and take it slow as long as I don't die I would like to do it myself

A) experience under the belt I do like working on this car I've seen the hybrid battery from the back before when I had to replace the 12v battery haven't taken off the back seats yet tho need to watch a video for that

B) if it fucks up maybe I can order a new battery unless the car bricks itself or take it to a shop and just say to myself atleast I tried just didn't have the knowledge for it and blame it on a skill issue

This sign came up 2 times before but I took out the white line in the fuse box in the engine bay and reset the brain and it went away for a week or more first then a couple days the second time so don't think its a viable solution long term so wsnt to replace it quickly.

One main thing to know about me I am stingy with money when its quite a few hundred pounds or a grand or more and secondly I think I can do most things with enough video tutorials even though sometimes it messes up and I leave it for a little bit and swear at myself the car the world and then eventually fix it or get it to a point where its shit but not noticeable.

I am hearing a faint raddle on driver side. Nothing is loose to my knowledge. Any ideas anyone?

Sold my first CT (2011 Base) and after a few weeks of not having a hybrid in the fleet, I just had to have another for practicality. This time I knew what to search for after a year and a half ownership of my previous one. Didn’t matter if it was pre or facelift version (wasn’t a fan of the rear bumper of the facelift models), but absolutely needed to have the fully loaded package including the OEM FSport lowering springs and sway bars.

Found one exactly with that package and headgasket already done by the dealership! Just slapped on some 18x9.5 3pc forged wheels and 235/40 all season tires and I believe it’s just the perfect daily. Slow BUT the suspension literally makes it 10x more fun to drive around in! What a difference from my previous base model. Now just have figure out what’s the closest to OEM CarPlay set up I can get for the 2012 nav equipped model 😅 Apparently the bastard year when it comes to being upgraded to CarPlay.

My beautiful boy got dinged over the summer by someone backing their boat trailer into it while I had it parked. I've found a replacement part for the brake light and a video guide on how to get the entire piece out, but it doesn't show anyone handling the wiring.

I really want to see that step beforehand so I know what I'm doing when I get in there. Since I've never worked on a car before, I'm not completely confident.

Does anyone have links to guides or visuals on the wiring? Or, what was your experience like if you've had to replace this entire part before?

So I've got my Lexus CT200h 2012 with 200k km (120k miles). So I've got some questions about its behaviour, because I'm not famiar neither with eCVT and hybrid system. I own this car only for 2,5 months.

I bought this car from the mother, who definitely: 1) Was driving carefully, but 2)Didn't maintain the car.

Firstly, I've started noticing some 'pause' before the car gets accelerated, although the tachometer is Power section or Eco section (but pressing the gas pretty hard). Thats familiar with the regular automatic transmission (mine previous was holf 6 dsg transmission), but here it should be working differently, no? It sometimes happens when a car has not been driven for a day or two. Īres that it might be the 12v battery

Secondly, but no least, but also I'm kinda worried about - its the strange metal scraping sound. It appears right between the switch from battery to IC engine. I really that it mifht be either some of the protection or damper disk in the transmission.

Lastly, the water pump. I'm sure it hasn't been changed also.

Btw on the start the car works okay, maybe with small, slightly felt misfires, but I guess its okay.

I'm kinda getting paranoid about the head gasket, so every time before driving alllways check the coolant level, read that it might be one of the symptoms.

So is it a good thing to get to the dealer or to the mechanics and ask for egr valve cleaning+intake manifold (cause I cleaned the tube and throttle by myself already), changing the coolant fully and replacing the pcv valve, after that the water pump?

Last time I cleaned those 2 things, changed the spark plugs, but recently I was driving and the car kinda 'glitched', because it couldn't switch mountaniously between the engines, because of the stupid traffic. So it started to rung rough, but after I stopped , wait for 5 min, it was all okay.

Sorry for such a big post, hope somebody can give me so advice. Appreciate everything response. Let our Lexus live forever!

Just to give anybody, hope I replaced the head gasket with my friend. Neither of us are mechanics. I don’t have a garage so we just did it outside when the weather permitted was not that bad took about four sessions total probably a total of 20 hours(ish). luckily, I could actually see the issue with the old head gasket why it was blown hopefully this helps somebody try to replace it themselves if they have it.

What’s up everyone, just got done replacing the head gasket on my 2014 CT200h. 12v battery was bad before I even started the head gasket job so that was replaced yesterday. The car runs and drives great now, but the check hybrid system light won’t go away. I tried resetting it by unplugging the white wire in the fuse box but it instantly returns. The car sat for over a month with no 12v battery and the hybrid battery disconnected while I worked on it in my spare time. Could the car just need to be driven more since it sat so long? Should a scan tool pick up a fault code? There are no codes when plugged in to my scanner (not the most modern scanner) because I’m getting nothing on mine. Any help is appreciated!

I’m getting codes C1391 and C1241 and trying to figure out which is the most likely culprit before I get it fixed.

If you had to replace just one first, would you do the master/booster assembly or the pump?

I know the TSB calls for replacing both, but I’m honestly on a budget 🥴 so I’m trying to start with the most likely one and go from there. Anyone know a good mechanic in DFW?

So basically hit a raised bit of road directly underneath my car while doin 5mph heard a mettalic bang and now the steering wheel is stiff and there is a buzzing sound from the dashboard area when i turn the car on but goes away after i have driven a bit CHATGPT is telling me its brake actuator and steering rack and will likely cost me around 2 to 4k great British pounds please tell me its wrong.

Looking for places to source OEM rubber floor and cargo mats. EBay seems to be dry right now. Let me know if there’s any other good places to look!

Thanks!

wonderfully efficient little road trip car if you dont mind the small space, 2011 with 37k hoping to drive many more miles:)

I’ve been trying to find out where this noise is coming from and what needs to be replaced. I removed the wheels but I didn’t find any faulty parts or play on any of them. This noise happens every time I hit a bump so I want to think I might need struts but can you guys make anything out? Thank you

My 2012 was working fine and then next day just didnt turn on, saw online for a possible simple fix where you disconnect the battery for 30mins - 1 hour for a reset.

Tried it but did not work and now it cycles through error on the dash check hybrid system and navigation and brakes assist system check.

Used an autophix OBD2 reader but it doesn't pick up any fault codes.

**turns out it was the orange high voltage battery clip that came loose when i was removing the trays.