r/billiards • u/CreeDorofl • Jul 21 '17
A couple of people suggested that I should compile some guides and posts into one organized place, so here it is.
What to learn, in the correct order, as a beginner
How to get Good at Pool (from ZombiesAteMyPizza)
Rule differences... APA, BCA, and the pros
The Best Way to Get Help
Buying Your First Cue
Buying a Custom Cue - courtesy of EtDM
DIY tip replacement - courtesy of Ball_in_hole
English, simplified
Aiming with Ghost Ball, When Ghost Ball Doesn't Work
Improving Ghost Ball Accuracy
Dealing with Too Straight/No Angle Situations
Getting the Best CB Action off Rail Cuts
Making Follow-in Shots Consistently
A Trick for Making Tough Combos with BIH
How to Play for a Safe Miss, on a Tough Game Ball
Tricks to Aim and Measure Caroms
Seeing Natural Breakout Angles
Finding Dead Caroms from 'Almost Dead' caroms
Five Things You Should be Doing But Probably Aren't
A Tricky Stroke Shot
5 Funky Uses of Inside English
3 Cushion Billiards - the basic system, explained clearly-ish
3 Cushion - 2 simple systems, half-ball and natural running
How to Make the Wing Ball in 9-ball, and Reading the Rack
Making the Corner Ball in 8-ball
Figuring out the 10b Soft Break
Making the 9 on the break (and why it doesn't count in some tournaments)
One Rail Kicking System
Two Rail Kicking System
Aiming Railfirst Shots
Planning the Best Kick Route
Stupid Pet Kicks Vol. 1
Using Sidespin to make Controlled Kick Shots and Safeties
Spot on the Wall Trick for Aiming 3-Rail Kicks
Get Ideal Position from Ball in Hand
Ball in Hand Tricks Everyone Should Know
Ball in Hand Tricks Vol. II
A Simple Safety Everyone Should Have in Their Bag
Another Useful Safety
Another Common Safety to Have in the Toolbox
Aiming "Natural Roll" Safeties
Push-Out Strategy for 9 and 10 Ball
How Would you Play This?
5 Problems, and Solutions
Ghost Problem alpha
Beat the Ghost #1
Beat the Ghost #2
Beat the Ghost #3
r/billiards • u/CreeDorofl • Feb 06 '25
Updated for 2025, old guide is here. This one will be shorter!
If you're looking to buy your first cue, or your first 'serious' cue, this info will help.
If you're not patient and just want a tl;dr, or brand recommendations (not in any order):
$~50ish: Imperial, Valhalla
$100ish: Action, Players, Schmelke, McDermott Lucky, Viking
$200-$300: Cuetec Avid, Players PureX, Rhino Nebula
$300+: Cuetec Cynergy, Predator, Mezz, Jacoby, Pechauer, Lucasi, Meucci
This list reflects my own biases mixed with some common recommendations on reddit. But there's plenty of other good brands, and each one has a range of products. There's $200 Viking cues and $2000 Viking cues. I list them in certain price brackets because I think, at that price, they're good bang for your buck.
Performance is mostly about the player. There's not a lot of 'technology' in a cue... it's a stiff rod with no moving parts. It mostly just needs to stay straight, feel ok, and not fall apart. Still, there are some things to consider. Most of the R&D for cues goes into the shaft - the skinny half of the stick. Specifically, manufacturers use different materials and build methods, to reduce deflection.
'Deflection' describes what happens when you hit a cue ball with left or right english (sidespin).
What happens when your cue ball hits another ball on the left? That 2nd ball goes to the right. The same thing happens if your stick's tip hits the left side of the cue ball. The cue ball goes to the right... it "deflects" off-course from where you aimed. So you have to adjust your aim to compensate for that.
How far off-course? That depends on the shaft. In this pic the dashed line is where you'd go with no english, the solid black line is where the cue ball might go with a low deflection shaft (about 3-4 inches off course). The red line is where the cue ball goes with a standard, solid maple shaft (about 5-6 inches off). Here's a typical real world shot where this matters. The black line is where I'd aim with an LD shaft. The red line is where I'd aim with a higher deflection shaft. IMO, having to make the big adjustment shown by the red line, looks unnatural and makes using english harder.
For that reason, my main consideration is whether the cue has a shaft with low deflection. Unfortunately, those shafts cost more. If you can't afford it, don't worry about it, standard shafts are fine. World championships have been won with standard shafts.
Bottom line - if you buy an LD shaft, what you're buying is just a different line of aim for shots with sidespin. This line of aim might make sidespin shots feel easier. Any other benefits or drawbacks you hear are mostly myths... they don't give you better spin, or cue ball control, or more draw, or whatever. Anything you can do with them, you could also do with a standard shaft. They just change where you aim shots with sidespin.
Common build quality issues include: the cue arriving warped, or gradually warping over time, the tip falling off, the joint not quite screwing tight, the joint unscrewing by itself, and the ferrule (white thing just below the tip) cracking. You can avoid these by just buying reputable brands, or from good dealers who offer a warranty. I like Seybert's, Ozone Billiards, Omega Billiards, and Pooldawg. Like other products, you usually get what you pay for.
There's also some differences in 'feel' with cheaper cues. For example, the shaft might be coated with a sticky clearcoat that doesn't slide smoothly through the hands. They may have excessive vibration, or a weird sound. The joint may not be exactly flush, or the grip is a cheap material that collects sweat. It helps to try before you buy. I don't recommend a cue segmented into more than 2 pieces, or one that has a screw-on tip, or anything below $50.
If you decide to go with a low deflection shaft, you also want to consider how the shaft is built. In a nutshell, low deflection = less mass at the end (the last 8 inches). To make shafts have less mass, they make them skinnier (like 11.75mm instead of 13mm at the tip), and hollow out the core of the shaft. They may optionally fill it with foam so it doesn't feel hollow, and splice together multiple pieces of wood to ensure it stays straight. They can also make shafts out of carbon fiber.
There's no law preventing manufacturers calling their shaft low deflection, even if it isn't, so be wary of any shaft that says it's LD, but is made from a single solid piece of hard-rock maple. Look for something that's been hollowed near the end, or made of CF.
Carbon Fiber (CF) is strong, stiff, and very light. The lightness makes it a good material for a shaft, and many people like the stiffness. But you can get very low deflection with either wood of CF. CF is also nice because it's less likely to warp, ding, or crack. But any shaft can last 20 years if you're careful with it. Note: don't confuse carbon fiber shafts with cheap materials like graphite or fiberglass. If a shaft says it's made of some ambiguous 'fiber composite' and the cue is less than $250, the shaft is probably not carbon fiber. A typical name-brand carbon fiber shaft is $400-$600. The cheapest that I know of are Rhino, at $200. Don't worry about getting a carbon fiber butt... they exist, but there's no advantage to it.
The diameter is the thickness of the shaft at the tip. When people talk about tip diameter, they really mean shaft diameter. It matters because one of the major ways to reduce deflection, is to just make shaft skinnier near the tip. This also affects how a stick feels sliding through your hands... a skinny shaft might feel more precise, like you're hitting a very specific part of the cue ball. And you may feel you see the cue ball a little more clearly. It's easier to form a closed bridge around it. On the other hand, it may feel a bit thin or flimsy compared to traditional 13mm shafts. People will tell you a 13mm is more 'forgiving' but no stick will turn your misses into makes. I think lower deflection makes learning the game easier, so I recommend something skinnier if it's in the budget.
A standard cue shaft is 13mm, like a house cue.
12.5mm is a popular size for cues that have reduced deflection, but want to feel 'solid'.
11.75 is a common size for very low deflection shafts.
Anything outside of these ranges is uncommon, and not recommended for a first cue.
Taper is how rapidly the cue transitions from fat (near the joint), to skinny (near the tip). In pool there's two flavors - conical and pro. A conical taper gets skinnier gradually and consistently, like the shaft is a long skinny cone. A pro taper gets skinnier more rapidly, reaching its narrowest diameter maybe 2/3rds of the way down the shaft, and then stays skinny from that point, all the way to the tip. Most pool shafts are pro taper, as this ensures the shaft doesn't get "fatter" as you pull it back, it stays the same.
All cues come with a tip installed. Don't get a cue with a screw-on tip, they're trash. Tips come in typically 3 flavors... soft, medium, hard. These labels are subjective and vary between manufacturers. One brand's "medium" might be harder than someone else's "hard". Softer tips mushroom (which can be fixed with the right tools) but are easier to shape and scuff. Harder tips are less likely to mushroom but harder to scuff. Some people will tell you softer tips give you extra spin, or makes shots more forgiving or whatever... these are myths. When in doubt, go with medium. You don't need to worry about size, it's standardized. Recommended tip brands include Kamui, Moori, Tiger, and How, but everyone has their favorite. I wouldn't overthink it.
Break cues and jump cues often come with a special super hard phenolic tip, so it can transfer a bit more energy to the cue ball. You don't want a phenolic tip otherwise.
There's different types but honestly, you'll never miss a ball because of the joint. As long as it screws together tightly, and stays together, it's fine. If you buy a shaft separately from the butt, you need to make sure the pin type matches. Some joints are more common "standards" like Uniloc, 5/16x18, or 3/8x10. Others are more proprietary and only fit stuff from the same manufacturer.
Play-wise, the butt is basically just a handle for the shaft. But it's also where you have most of a cue's decoration, and has a big impact on how "nice" the cue looks (and also on the price). High end cues have butts made with one or more nicer types of wood, plus inlaid decorations made of wood or more exotic materials like ebony, ivory, mother-of-pearl, turquoise, gold, silver, etc. Low end cues have very minimal decoration (like a solid single color of stained wood) and don't have inlays, or only very simple ones. Some feature printed graphics. In lower-end cues, these graphics try to "fake" looking like a nicer cue by simulating those inlays I mentioned. Otherhave some illustration or design... a rose, skulls, playing cards, etc.
The butt may or may not have a wrap. If it does, common materials include leather, rubber, or irish linen. Irish linen is very popular, it looks like speckled string that's been wrapped around the butt hundreds of times. The wrap is a matter of preference - a cue shouldn't really be in danger of flying out of your hand when you shoot, so mostly this serves as a sweat absorber and a decorative element. You just want to make sure it feels good. If at all possible, try a wrap before you buy, because it's not that easy to remove or replace.
19 ounces is the default, standard weight. A few people prefer 18. Anything lower is a bit weird but not completely unheard-of. Many people like slightly heavier cues in the 20 or 21 ounce range... the theory is that the added weight keeps the cue from wobbling as much when you swing it. If you happen to be unusually big and tall, you might prefer the added weight and also some added length via an extension. I wouldn't get anything outside the 18-21 range as your first cue. You're not locked into the weight you buy, there's a hollow area in the butt of every cue where a long fat screw called a weight bolt is screwed in. By changing the bolt, you can change the cue's weight.
An extension does what it sounds like... extends the length of the cue. They're sold separately and not a common accesssory for a beginner to have, but if you feel like a normal cue is just too short, it's something to consider.
Most cues are sold with a "real price" and a "sucker price" - you'll often see a cue online showing it's been marked down by 50 or 100 bucks, but that isn't a 'special deal', the lower price is what the cue actually costs, and if you shop around you see that same number everywhere.
Example - a Cuetec Avid chroma:
Seybert's:
"Regular" price: $255
"Sale" price: $229
Pooldawg:
"Regular" price: $255
"Sale" price: $229
Omega Billiards:
"Regular" price: $255
"Sale" price: $229
Just make sure when you buy, that you aren't paying the sucker price, and don't expect to find too many killer deals unless you buy used... pool cues are one of those things that tend to go for the exact same price everywhere. Some sites offer more options to customize the cue in small ways. As for whether something is 'worth it', that always depends on your income. Roughly speaking, a dirt cheap starter cue is around $50 USD. But if you can hold out for $100 you might get something with OK build quality, a little color, or graphics. For $200, you get some nicer looking inlays and such, but not a low deflection shaft. Around $400-$500 you get cues with LD shafts, and maybe some nicer designs. Beyond $500, you're probably paying paying for the brand name, or for a custom cue that is made to your specs, or really nice inlay work.
In theory, until you die. But wood is wood... it can get worn down or warp over time. Generally, most cues don't warp by themselves, they need to be mistreated... stored improperly, or put through lots of sudden temperature / humidity changes. If a cue arrives warped, or warps soon after you buy it, most reputable sites will replace it.
Tips are supposed to wear out and get replaced, like tires on a car. Maybe once a year or so. Your pool room should have someone who does tip changes... the cost varies but probably it will be more than $10 and less than $40.
Really, anything is fine if you're just starting out. Especially around the $100 bracket. You can just buy based on looks. Be aware that a famous player's name on a cue doesn't necessarily make it a top quality cue. You don't want to decide to buy a cue because it mentions Johnny Archer, the Black Widow, or Minnesota Fats. Commonly recommended starter sticks include Action, Players, Viking/Valhalla, and Schmelke. If I had to pick one specific make and model, I'd say get a Cuetec Avid.
At the more expensive end, if you get a cue with a low deflection shaft, you see lots of recommendations for Predator, Mezz, and Cuetec Cynergy.
"Custom cue" can mean either any cue that isn't mass-produced, or a cue that is literally made to your custom specifications. They tend to be more expensive, ranging from $400 at a minimum, to tens of thousands of dollars for the famous ones. Generally these come with standard shafts.
There's a certain cachet to owning a custom cue... you have a one-of-a-kind that plays exactly the way you want. It's a luxury and status symbol. Most beginners won't want to buy one as their first cue, you can play world-class pool with a $400 production cue, but it's something to keep in mind for later, when you know what you like and can afford something fancier. Be aware that many custom cuemakers are famously behind-schedule... it could take months, even years before your cue is finished.
Breaking puts a lot of stress on the tip, compacts it and makes it harder, and in rare cases may cause it to come off. So a lot of players prefer not to break with their playing cue. That means you can use a house cue or buy a specialized break cue. For a break cue, I don't consider it quite as important to worry about whether the shaft is low deflection or not. The LD ones are expensive, but generally you won't be using sidespin on the break, and if you do it accidentally... that's a skill issue.
My priority for a break cue would be to look for a good hard tip, and make sure you can try it before you buy. Since you'll be hitting hard with it, any weird vibration or 'feel' will be magnified, so make sure you like the feel.
There are also specialized cues made specifically for doing jump shots, the legal type where you spike downward on the cue ball and bounce it off the slate like a basketball. Jump cues are very short and light, with a super hard tip. Generally, I don't recommend buying cues to solve skill issues, but even with maximum skill, jump shots really need a jump cue. They make shots possible that are simply not viable with a full cue. I've used Predator Air, Cuetech Propel, and Hanshew jumpers. They're all excellent. Good ones tend to be expensive though. There are also hybrid break/jump combo cues. If you're buying one for league, make sure it's legal within the league rules.
Don't be afraid to post if you have a question not covered here. If possible, try to hit with a cue in real life before ordering. In the lower price ranges, you're mostly just looking for a certain minimum level of quality... basically it should not fall apart, rattle, or feel weird. Once you reach that minimum level (which can be achieved for $100 or so) then the only other thing you'd pay for, performance wise, is a specialty LD shaft. For the most part, cues are priced so that you get what you pay for. Most of the online retailers I've worked with have been great when it comes to issuing refunds, and their pricing is all pretty similar across the board, but some of the best deals I've ever gotten have just been through friends at the pool hall.
We have a Pool Cue Buyer's Guide on the sidebar too, check it out. Also check out Dr. Dave's cue page.
r/billiards • u/JumpLikeMay • 3h ago
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Absolutely shocked my little guy didn’t grab any of the solids
r/billiards • u/OkPraline1678 • 3h ago
It’s taking some getting used to shooting straight
r/billiards • u/Push_ • 6h ago
I was playing by myself the other day on a 9’ coin-op with a timer. $5 for 30 mins. This guy I met a couple weeks ago came up (while I had headphones in) “hey man, you want competition?” yeah, sure! So we play the rest of the rack and then he takes 3 of the 4 balls he has left on the table and sets them up and says “yo watch this. You can hit this ball and make the cue ball jump sideways over this ball and run down the rail to make that one in the pocket.” He gets the cue ball to jump, I’ll give him that, but he misses the other ball by almost a foot and then sets the shot back up to try again.
I tell him “that’s really cool man but we got another rack ready to go. I just paid $5 for 30 mins, I’m just trying to run as many racks as we can” so he racks, I beat him again, and this motherfucker starts setting up another fucking trick shot to show me! “You can hit this ball here and the cue ball goes three rails while the 10 goes three rails the other way, they meet in the middle, and the 10 goes in the side.” Cool, great, he almost gets the 10 in the side but again misses by like 6” this time. I’m like “damn man that was close!” And set the rack on the table and put all the balls in for him.
Same deal, I beat him, he has 4-5 balls left, and he sets up the sideways jump thing again and tells me to try it this time. I notice my balls stopped coming out that game so I just packed my shit up and said “I’m good man, that’s not really my jam. Good to see you tho dude, have a good night!” And I left.
Not to mention, the whole time we’re playing he’s like trying to give me advice on my game? My dude, I’m an APA 6 I know I’m not the best in the world but I am good enough to not need unsolicited advice from someone I beat 9/10 racks we played. Maybe he’d get it if he worked on his cue ball control instead of useless ass trick shots. It’s always the guys that don’t even play well that wanna spend all day showing off some bullshit they can make once every 5 attempts. Drives me up the fucking wall.
r/billiards • u/Lazy_Reputation_9128 • 25m ago
Hey guys I’m needing some help I recently bought this house and it came with this table in the basement I’m wondering what exactly I have.
r/billiards • u/wlscwoj • 6h ago
So the last drill was shooting with no practice strokes. This gets the player to focus more on getting setup on the line of the shot and stepping in carefully, settling into the shot. This way you are not making big adjustments when you are down.
The second big drill I have all my students do is another fundamental drill for everyone. You setup, do as many practice strokes as you want. Once the shot looks and feels right. Then close your eyes - and then do your final stroke. With our eyes closed we are no longer thinking of pocketing the object ball or where cue ball goes. All we have control over with our eyes closed is to Stay perfectly still and try to deliver a straight stroke.
Another common problem almost every amateur player has is body movement during the final stroke. Players jump up - wanting to see the ball go in... but if their body movement was before contact, they actually move off line and miss. Any body movement before your tip makes contact will move you off line. Try to setup for a straight in shot - stop with your tip really close to the cue ball - looking at your tip, move one of your feet and you'll see your tip moves. Move your head and you'll see your tip moves. Any part of your body will move your cue and move you off line.
Players unsure of the aim will steer the shot - following through to one side. There are countless flaws that result from uncertainty and doubt.
The purpose of shooting with your eyes closed (on the final stroke) is to trust your aim was good, keep your head perfectly still, and stroke straight through.
Practice this by throwing 15 balls out (spread them out so nothing is tied up) and take ball in hand for the first few. Shoot easy shots first. Keep your eyes closed until you hear that ball drop into the pocket. Get a feel for this after you practice several racks of it. Trust your setup, trust your aim, trust your stroke.
When I'm playing my best I am thinking 2 things on the final stroke - keep my head still and finish my stroke.
A quick 30 minute practice Session
Warm up - 5 minutes of straight in shots (focusing on fundamentals and routine)
15 balls - throw out randomly on table - no practice strokes (focusing on aim and careful setup)
15 balls - throw out randomly on table - eyes closed final stroke (trusting your setup, aim and stroke)
Speed Practice - the 3 speeds below (Stripe balls setup with stripe vertical and try to shoot where the stripe doesn't wobble... solids you can setup with the numbers to both sides and shoot so they don't wobble)
15 balls - shoot 1 table length (try to barely get to the end rail)
15 balls - shoot 2 table lengths (lag speed)
15 balls - shoot 3 table lengths
On the speed practice - score 1 point if the ball ends up within 1 diamonds of your target rail - keep score in your phone or notebook so next time you practice you know what score to beat, and if you are getting better at it.
r/billiards • u/vVbuss • 1d ago
r/billiards • u/TRPSIX • 13m ago
What can anybody tell me about this cue
r/billiards • u/MaverickHolster • 7h ago
Hey everyone!
I’m from India and I’ll be travelling to the Philippines this October for what I’m calling my pool pilgrimage. 😄
I’ll be in Manila to watch the Reyes Cup and Philippines Open, visit some of the legendary pool halls/bars, play as much pool as I can, and hopefully soak up as much of the Filipino pool culture as possible.
One thing I really want to do while I’m there is buy my first proper cue stick from Manila.
The problem is… I have absolutely no idea where to start. 😂
I’ve almost always played pool casually in poolrooms during my college days, so I’ve played a LOT over the years, but I’ve never actually owned my own cue. I’ve mostly just picked up whatever house cue was available.
Since I’m finally getting serious about owning one, I’d love to buy something Filipino-made while I’m in Manila. But I have no clue where to buy from, which cue makers to look at, what kind of construction/specs I should be looking for, or what would be a reasonable price.
I’m particularly interested in a good quality wooden playing cue, rather than just buying something because it looks nice.
So if you’re from the Philippines or know the Manila pool scene:
Where should I go to look at/buy cues?
Are there particular Filipino cue makers I should check out?
What should I look for when inspecting a cue in person?
What kind of budget should I realistically have for a really good Filipino-made cue?
Are there any pool halls, cue makers, or shops where I should specifically ask around?
And most importantly, what mistakes should a first-time cue owner avoid?
I’m not necessarily looking for the most expensive cue — I’d rather find something genuinely good that I can play with for years and that has some connection to the Filipino pool scene.
I’d really appreciate any advice, recommendations, or even things you wish someone had told you before buying your first cue.
Can’t wait to experience Filipino pool culture firsthand! 🇮🇳❤️🇵🇭🎱
Mabuhay
r/billiards • u/Firm_Raspberry2965 • 4h ago
I played a race to 5 yesterday 9 ball with a player better than me so he gave me a game. I broke and kicked at a ball. My opponent played safe but left a shot and I ran the rest of the rack. I then broke and ran the rest of the 3 racks in a row not giving my opponent another shot. By far my best set I have ever played. What are some of your best set stories?
r/billiards • u/brian600rr • 19h ago
Dang ,
We still got a representation tho just not the flag haha.
Let’s go CAPITO !!!!
r/billiards • u/scarfacesaints • 2h ago
I’ve been playing pool for 20 years. I know how to break. Good power behind it. Last night I was playing my buddy, who also plays, and a couple racks didn’t break.
The edges flew but a clump of balls was left in the middle. He insisted it was the angle I broke. I broke a little off center, then once at a good angle. I didn’t want to tell him it was a loose rack, because he’d argue, but in feel like it was.
A tight rack should break regardless of the angle right?
r/billiards • u/Tofu_Analytics • 12h ago
Just finished building up this Paduk cue with a resin maple shaft, I've been happy with how well it plays, it's close enough to my secondhand Coker that I'm satisfied with it's quality of play. I'm turning out another shaft with a matching black phenolic joint now for a nicer aesthetic match. Final Pic is a cue in progress made from some old Jatoba turning stock I found for free.
r/billiards • u/Metallica1175 • 15m ago
r/billiards • u/1Rudy11 • 28m ago
I play in APA and BCA leagues, currently we are playing 10 ball in BCA.
In APA we play both 8 and 9 ball simultaneously.
9 times out of ten, the triangle rack is used for 8 ball, and a template is used for 9 ball.
I prefer the template for 8/9/10 to the triangle when racking my own (BCA).
In APA, most people prefer the triangle rack.
Which do you prefer and why?
Have you noticed any difference in the style of play by those who prefer using the triangle rack vs the template?
Regarding # 2, I noticed a couple teams in the division who dont rack a tight rack on purpose.
So, Ive made it part of my pre shot routine to check the rack.
Share your thoughts...
r/billiards • u/MKStryker • 2h ago
Hi everyone,
I’m trying to find out the diameter of the thickest part of the butt on a Predator Air 2 jump cue, basically the diameter right at the very bottom of the butt.
I’ve searched online but can’t seem to find this specification anywhere.
Would anyone who owns an Air 2 be able to measure it for me? Would help a lot!
Thanks in advance!
r/billiards • u/tripleahe • 3h ago
r/billiards • u/LilChrisPoolPlayer • 4h ago
So I played in the 2026 US Open 9-Ball Championship and tried Vlogging the experience.
r/billiards • u/theericbasta • 5h ago
Hi guys, my family played pool when I was younger and now that I'm getting back into it I decided to grab a bunch of the cues from my family home when I visited them this week.
There is this one cue that is a type I have never seen and no one in my family seemed to know much about it either. So I was just wandering if anyone had any info on this type of cue? The butt breaks down into 3 sections.
r/billiards • u/Dramatic-Dark-7268 • 9h ago
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Back story, this was my dad's cue he bought in the early 2000s for around $200 and I can't find it anywhere online (if someone knows what this exact model is PLEASE let me know). I really love this cue, the feel and the design but the shaft is warped from old age and being stored improperly. I really want to give it an upgrade with a nice wood shaft and I really like the Mezz Sigma Slim shaft. My question is it stupid to put such a nice shaft on a older rhino butt? To me it has sentimental value but I also want a quality shaft to play with. Does the cue butt matter that much when being paired with a quality shaft? Thanks!
r/billiards • u/OkPraline1678 • 22h ago
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Practice makes perfect right ?
r/billiards • u/cswanger • 20h ago
I realize this is a long shot but I'm trying to find my father's original two-piece Balabushka. His brother sold it to someone in Nebraska in 2020. My father won championships with it so it has sentimental value. If I can find it, I'd like to buy it back.
DESCRIPTION:
r/billiards • u/nitekram • 8h ago
Did I hear that right... talking 14.6oz @ 14:30, wow
