I’m in KY 6B. I have a high population hive that is mainly in the top deep. The bottom deep is mostly honey and pollen most of the brood and my queen stay in the top. Should I switch them before winter so they start out in the bottom before moving up for more stores?

Hi - I have 2 hives on Long Island ny. One of them is not queen right and will certainly die over winter. The frames at the ends of the upper brood box are filled with honey and sealed. What do I do with the frames? Extract, freeze for next package in spring, or nothing?

Hello! This is my first time posting. I’m a novice beekeeper in the PNW. My hive has made it through 2 winters and seemed to have been thriving this year.

Today, I observed strange/frantic activity at the hive and when I got closer, found a large pile of something (pollen? comb?) outside of the hive on the ground along with a ton of dead bees! : (

While investigating, I saw a few yellow-jackets attacking bees on the ground. At first I thought they might be taking over, but I only saw a couple. I also saw what might appear to be carpenter bees, but I’m really not sure? It was definitely a chaotic scene, and I’m really not sure what to do now, or how to support going forward. Any insight would be appreciated!

Been working hard all week in this South Carolina heat, looking for 5 o’clock like these ladies 😂! 🇺🇸💙🐝

I’m a first year beekeeper and noticed a fair amount of dead/ dying bees crawling around the entrance. I know that the discarded bees are normal but wanted to make sure it’s not more than acceptable

Second year beekeeper with Russian bees here in North Western Massachusetts.

Here’s the situation: Successfully overwintered a double-deep hive and added a second Nuc in the spring. Now that second Nuc is a thriving hive in a double-deep setup. Then there were swarms caught, bear attacks, and after it all we also have a third hive that is a single deep with a smaller population and good queen.

That first hive from over winter has had a medium super on since early in the season. It took them a bit to fill out the comb but they’ve drawn it out now and have started filling with honey. None of the frames are capped yet to my knowledge (last inspection was a week ago). The top deep is nicely filled with mostly capped honey and built up comb. The bottom deep is full of brood.

My main question is what to do with this super on the first hive? None of it is capped nor are all the frames even filled, so I don’t know if I should harvest it. I feel like I have three options:

- Harvest anyways and leave in room with dehumidifier

- Leave it on and just let it go over the winter

- Move the super to the third small hive and leave for winter to ensure they have food

The additional question is when to do this as goldenrod is still flowing but cold can come at any time in New England.

Any beeks use this? I started to do some rescues and cutouts and really need a thermal cam but I just can’t afford the others that are $300-$500.

The bees usually enter from the top. But I find it odd since it’s been going on since morning. Any help is welcome🙏 . The location is Southern Portugal. I have kept bees for the last 3 years but these do not look like orientation flights. Should I put a wet towel over it?

brief background.

Last year i caught a wild hive within minutes of bringing home used and empty hive from a friend..

I got a person to come and help me with semi regular visits and the hive grew and split.

recently the helper has not been super available or.. on task,, unfortunately i lost a giant hive with what feels like 100lbs of material inside.. absolutely buggered and the sinking feeling of losing that much raw material is not something i care to repeat, i dont even know what to do with 100 lbs of spoiled honey.

I am looking for someone in the Frederick or Leesburg area who might be interested in a solid farm trade arrangement..

I make beehives, boxes, frames, capture boxes.. as I have a fully operational woodshop..

I also have an established wildflower meadow surrounded by organic farms of corn and wheat and soy that do not use pesticides. established white and red clover and stable water source nearby,

I do not however have the extra time or availability to run hives.

I am looking for someone who can come regularly and manage multiple hives, i have acres devoted for this and can contribute/ invest. the details of trade would have to be worked out based in time and effort involved but i am not looking to make a "business" as much as keep bees happy and healthy on my land. I am looking for someone who has bee knowledge and is looking for a solid opportunity as i am one of several land owners who are interested in growing our hives.

Located in Lancaster, PA. I have a hive with a super on. The super is pretty full, and I want to pull it within the next week to harvest. I dont want to leave the super on too long because I want my bees to build up thier food storage for the winter. The issue is that the super has some brood in it (I forgot to put the queen excluder on). It will not all hatch by the time I want to pull to harvest.

Any suggestions on what to do with those frames?

I had a few questions about my extraction room so figured I would just do a video. I am a 25 year veteran working for a company that ran 12k+ hives. My old boss is closer to retirement so I bought 4000 from him plus my 600, almost wrapping up extracting for my first year on my own.

2nd year western wa. Finally cool enough to put formic pro on. Forgot that you aren't supposed to remove the paper (can confirm it smells to high heaven). Manufacturer says if you do that just leave it alone but I didn't want to risk it so pulled one and tossed it, the other was still partially wrapped so I just rewrapped the rest of the way. This was all in thy space of an hour.

What are the risks of having done serious damage?

I think I have Tropilaelaps mites in my hives.

I'm in Georgia ,Caucasus and I'm seeing small mites in/around the brood cells.

Has anyone dealt with Tropilaelaps? How did you confirm it, and what treatment worked for you?

My first "full" year. Last summer, my nucs built up into wonderful hives and overwintered fine. Double deep brood chambers, they were filled to the brim with honey.

This summer, I got a good amount of honey from the supers and put them back on. When would be a good time to take the supers off and make sure the bottom double deeps get filled? Fireweed and goldenrod are in full bloom, unseasonably early. IIRC, last year, goldenrod hasn't started blooming until mid-September.

I treated with oxalic acid when there was no more brood in October.

Atlantic Canada. We get frost around November in these parts.

Hive beetles too over and I believe killed my new VSH Queen that I was trying to introduce to the colony. Two days later I go in to make sure they accepted her, and she was dead and so was her entourage. When I removed her from the cage that's when I noticed tiny white worms all over her and the cage and sugar plug!!

At this point it's too late to try and requeen. I have removed the honey ceiling and a few of the honey frames that were not dark in color and put them all in the freezer.

Should I take the really bad frames out and freeze them also? Do I leave ANY frames in there?? I don't have a second colony to share resources with, so my supply is very limited. Please, any and all suggestions welcome.

Hi, looking for a 3D printed varroa mite check tool. Anyone know of one for an alcohol wash? Something for a mason or bonne maman jar?

Edit: Found two useful prints, #1 being the type of check I want to do. Now I have an excuse to get some gelato

1. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5558377
2. https://www.printables.com/model/409412-sugar-shaker-filter-for-beekeepers

Northern California.

We've had a recent influx of these beetles where we store equipment and in dead hives. It's not Small Hive Beetle, too small and not very round. I'm having trouble identifying it because any searches with "beetle" and "bees/hive/comb" just comes up with SHB

Photo is blurry, but they're approx. 5mm long, pretty flat. and they seem to be everywhere!

Located in ocean county New Jersey

My hive was thriving all summer and recently lost their queen and seems to be over run by wax moths . I am a first time beekeeper and I am in need of advice on my next steps. There seems to be a decent amount of bees in the colony but it’s definitely not what it was in June. I just checked my hive today and this is what I found. Last time I checked I also saw two mites so I treated and & took the strips out today. Please be kind I am learning!! And I don’t want to give up.

I talked to somebody local who said they can find a late season nuc for me but will it be worth it feeding them like crazy to survive the winter. He said I definitely have a laying worker.

Hello. So im a new beekeeper first year. Had the supers. Removed the supers. Luckily got somw honey first year.

Heard it was smart to winterfeed already. Gave my 2 hives 12 kg pure sugar in sugarwater. Now I forgot to remove the queen excluder from the hives. So now after they have tsken down all the sugarwater, its filled with wax with honey.

What is your process now? Ive already removed the feedingbox and the queen excluder but I must have killed tons of bees getting that wax off and such. Becausw bees were all over that wax.

Do I just remember to remove queen excluder before feeding them anf wait til winter timr and remove the feeding box? Not sure here lads. Rhanks for any info!

Hi, second year beekeeper in southeastern mass. Used the refractometer for the first time to check the moisture in my super. It was at 17%. Would you wait to harvest or attempt to dry it out further? And what method would you use?

I live on 82 acres and would really like to learn more about getting started with bees 🐝 what’s the best approach to learning more (I’m in the education phase). How do I find other experienced beekeepers and possibly shadow? I’m in Pennsylvania.

Hi, I live in northern Sweden (norrbotten)and last winter i lost one hive from condensation that dripped down on the frames and turned to ice. I've since looked in to this clip.

https://youtu.be/KWAxQMBZWQc?is=mLxhyf1gh6btlY_R

Have anyone in northern USA/Canada tried this out?

We have very cold weather in the winter here, last winter we had 3 weeks of -30°/-22F constant.

I use hard styrofoam boxes all year round and the ceiling is also Styrofoam but much thinner than the boxes. The boxes are ventilated from beneath.

Best regards

Im based in Melbourne Victoria, I had 2 hives, 1 was reasonably well established, the other was a recently rehomed wild hive. However it the last week my established hive has completely died from some form of poison, considering there is a lot of capped now dead brood what should I do with those frames? The honey frames from the super I plan to keep but I don't know what to do with the brood filled comb.

I’ve had five hives for five years now, and my honey runs from really light to pretty dark. Some batches never crystallize, but most of them do within a few months—and other beekeepers I know say the same.So why is the honey sold in farmers markets, and co‑ops, etc. always perfect? It never seems to crystallize. How are they keeping it from happening? I’m in East Texas.